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Weird drive condition today

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
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On my way home my 92 GVR4 (stock except for E8 injectors, 3g maf, chip) acted like it went into limp mode. This happened on the freeway on ramp, probably not quite warmed up. Would not rev beyond 3k rpm even with no load, and would not exceed about 20 mph. So I pulled over and shut it off. Started it up, and it drove fine again on the freeway the rest of the way (about 6-7 miles). At the end of the off-ramp I had to stop for a light. It did it again, so I pulled of to the side again, and did the restart again. All was fine the rest of the way home.

Right before this happened, I had a bit of hesitation accelerating just after starting out. It has done that a bit lately when not yet warmed up, but seems to go away when at operating temp. No codes, lights etc.

Ideas?
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
I would supect the MAS or even a intermitant wire/contection.

If it keeps up, I can send you my MAS and have you try it. But it will have to wait until I get back (mid next week).
 

KiNgMaRtY

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Apr 8, 2008
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835
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Corona, CA
Does it buck or missfire at all? Could also be he injectors not seated properly or the connectors to them
 

jepherz

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Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
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KC, Missouri
Fuel pump? My dying fuel pump had some similar behavior. What's the history on the pump you're using?

Mine would stumble a bit once in a while right on a cold start, almost as if running on 3 cylinders. Towards the end, after a decent drive on the highway, power would get worse and worse, along with the RPM I could hold before bucking horribly. It'd get worse and worse until I'd pull over and shut the car off and let it sit for a minute. Then I'd restart and all would be fine for a bit.

I'll get that pump sent out to you ASAP.
 
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iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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good thoughts all. I checked over all the basic electrical/ignition connectors last night. Cursory check, I admit. I have another 3g maf Terry, so no worries. I thought about swapping that. My 3g connector is also one of my early "prototypes", so I will take a better look at that.

Jeff, stock pump. I did consider fuel supply, but the symptoms seemed not real applicable. Your experience deems it something to consider more. I started the Kroil on the fuel pump cover nuts last week, because my gas gauge does not work (seems to be stuck after 6 years of sitting, go figure), so I will consider changing that when I get in there.

Thanks all.
 

Struc

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Nov 24, 2008
Messages
764
Location
Oconomowoc, WI
I'd check the fuel filter as well, just to be sure. I had a Prelude WAY back in the day that had a similar problem, although restarting it didn't help - it happened all the time. Turned out to be a weak fuel pump.
 

Jesh

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Messages
282
Location
Soldotna, Alaska
I had that same problem once. It was really annoying, it ended up being leaking caps in the ecu. Not saying thats your problem, but it couldn't hurt to check.

Edit: As a side note, this condition only seemed to affect it when the tempature was below 30-40F.
 
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jepherz

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KC, Missouri
6 years?!? I'd think that tank is tarred up inside. Also, if it has happened a decent amount, you can try quickly pulling one of the plugs. It should show pretty dry (white) if it's been running lean long enough. By the time I figured out what was going on with my car, the plugs had started to deteriorate.
 
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toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Throw your logger on there and check the fuel trims and 02 readings while it's acting up. If it's a fuel issue, it'll show up there first.

Be sure to check the coolant temp sender for accuracy.



... If that fails, be sure to pass by the scrappers and point out that it's got one wheel in the crusher ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Michigan
Hasn't done this again in three days of driving. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

gtluke

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Sep 16, 2001
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4,210
Location
dirty jersey
Mine does this in the heavy rain from time to time until it warms up. It's ignition related. I'm sure it's the coil or ignitor, but I don't feel like changing them since it's only a few times a year for a minute.
 

JNR

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Joined
Apr 23, 2004
Messages
9,814
Location
ca
Maybe got some crappy gas?

I had the weirdest experience in the cts-v with getting a tank of bad gas, where it would not start at all when it was cold, then it would sputter and not run real well. Once it got going and warmed up, it was fine, but the next time it sat, same thing and just kept getting worse. Suspected that's what it was, dumped some treatments in there, changed the filter and ran it close to dry...Filled it up with new gas and no more issues.

Gotta really watch that 10% ethanol crap and why I won't go to Mobil anymore (most stations probably use to a degree, but had other weird issues with mobil)...sucks you pay $3.70/gallon and have to waste it since it was no good, argh (I blame the station more than anything and bet it collected alot of moisture; interesting read on that corn 'oil' stuff)
 
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iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Spoke too soon. This came back with a vengeance last night. Limped it home and put the scan tool on it, but I can't find anything wrong from that. Revs and runs fine at idle and no load. Need to investigate the fuel system and pressure next. I started on removal of the fuel pump and sender (spray, wait day, spray, wait, spray again) but already broke one stud. Now seeking more patience (spray, wait, spray, wait). Thankfully it is unseasonably warm here this week so I can work outside without freezing.

Tried to drive it this am, but only made it half mile before having to go home for another car.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Michigan
OK, I finished installing the new fuel pump tonight, and car seems to drive fine. This pump has a filter sock, whereas the one I took out did not have one at all. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Bad news is I broke 2 studs getting it out, and they are next to each other, so I have a leak now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif I will get the new pump gasket early next week when my next parts order gets here, then I will have to figure out what to do.

Short of taking the tank out to get it welded, any other alternatives?
 

dmj

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Feb 2, 2008
Messages
673
Location
orlando FL
No need to take the tank out. Remove the pump ,drain the tank. Take your favorite cordless drill with a small bit( just a tad smaller than the stud) and drill out the studs while holding a rag inside the tank to catch any falling pieces. when you are done take a M5 tap and run it through the holes to create threads; all the while holding the rag inside the tank to catch the debris. Use M5 bolts and thread in from inside the tank so the threads stick out like the factory studs make sure to tighten properly using a socket or wrench from inside the tank . For added insurance you may want to use a gasoline compatible thread sealer or a dab of JB weld close to the bolt heads so it will seal the threads against leakage and bond tightly just like the factory studs. Good Luck. Extra note. If you screw up and drill the holes larger, no problem just use a larger tap and matching bolt just remember you will then have to enlarge the holes in the fuel pump holder and the rubber gasket for everything to fit properly.
 
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iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
Messages
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Michigan
Had some thoughts along that line. How do you keep them from rotating? Does the JB weld handle that?

How empty does it need to be? Completely dry to avoid vapors (the dangerous part)?
 

dmj

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Joined
Feb 2, 2008
Messages
673
Location
orlando FL
It does not rotate because you will make threads when you tap the holes .it is like screwing a bolt into a threaded hole it tightens it self against the threads no different than tightening any other bolt, that is the great part about it. If you want to do a trial run take a piece of thin metal 16-20 guage drill a small hole into it then tap it with let say a M6x 1mm tap then screw in a m6x1mm bolt tighten it then screw on a nut on it, you will see it does not rotate and how strong it is. The thread sealant or jb weld is just to prevent fuel seepage if any. The tank does not have to be empty just be carefull not to create any sparks.
 
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