I have EVO8 Suspension on my car and hoping to address the camber issues that are now present; I am at a lost of how I need to go about it. There's rumors of the EVO8 setup pushing the knuckles outward and that seems to be an issue I observe every time I drive the GVR4. I was going to mill down some washers/bushings to weld on and better align the wheels the best I can but that seems to be a project that may or may not work. Can you please chime in Belieze1334 and explain this to me once again...you too Curtis. How can I make this current setup align better so tires can last more than a season...Pictures, photos, links...anything will be greatly appreicated. I tried searching but I couldn't narrow down what I need to learn unfortunately. Dimensions for milled holes, or bolt sizes anything associated with making the EVO8 setup align correctly would be great...thanks in advance...

Unfortunately I suck w/ CAD and SolidWorks and all that stuff so I'll attempt to explain my idea as clearly as I can.

As I understand it from reading, there are 3 major ways in which the evo suspension design differs from a DSM.

1) Bolt holes are bigger to accommodate larger bolts.

This would seem to be a problem until you realize that it makes the stock bolts and splindle act just like camber bolts which can be tipped in to improve camber. The only problem is that you have to really tighten things down to make it stay put and it's hard to reproduce consistent settings. To address this one should incorporate an eccentric bushing into the package which will set into the larger hole in the strut with an offset pass-through to fix the posotion of the bolts wrt the hole center.

2) Bolts are positioned differenty on the "ears" (10mm outboard).

This would also seem to be an issue... and it is. It means that the spindle is possitioned farther out with respect to the strut body. To see what this does, imagine that the bolt holes were the right size for a second and that the top of the strut were free to move. If you kept the spindle perfectly in place then the strut would have to shift inboard by 10mm. If you then wanted to bolt the strut top in you'd have to tip it back out 10mm at the top to make it align with the mount. But the spindle has to move with the strut so you've now tipped the whole assembly outward and lost all of the camber that you might have gained from the eccentric bushings...

To remedy this you should slot on of the main holes in the strut so as to further tip the spindle wrt the strut body and gain back some of that camber. How much? I don't know. But if you knew the separation of the holes, you could compute how much offset to introduce in order to achieve say -1* camber correction. Tan(theta)=(s/d) so s=d Tan(theta) ~ d x theta (in radians) ~ d x 1* x 2 pi / 360 ~ d / 50. So, if the bolts are separated by about 6" (a guess) then the lower hole should be offset from the upper by about 0.1" or 2.5mm. This is consistent with slotting one of the holes from 16mm to 19mm as was suggested in another thread. I suggest slotting just the upper hole on the inboard side. You could divide it up but since the holes are too far outboard already it seems unwise to take any material from the outboard side. If the final shape of the hole is circular then you can use a circular eccentric bushing. If not, even better since an oval eccentric bushing won't rotate in place.

The other option of course is the apply the same design concept but to modify the spindle instead of the strut.

3) The ears are themselves spaced 5mm farther apart.

This turns out to actually be kind of cool since, all else aside, if you put all 5mm of spacer on the front side of the spindle then you create the same kind of affect as 2) but you can exploit it to increase caster which is always a good thing.

Further, if you have a machine shop, you can incorporate the spacers and bushings into a single piece. Start with a piece of material that's as thick as the needed spacing + the width of one ear. Mill it down so that it's 5mm thick at the base with bosses sticking up that match the spacing and shape of the holes in the strut ears (after modification if performed). Make sure that you make two symmetric units, one for each side, and that they're designed to go on the appropriate face of the spindle to exploit aforementioned caster benefit. Then drill through the bushings to match the diameter of the bolts to be used. The drilled hole should be offset in the extreme limit to get the most camber correction possible out of each hole.

Then all you need is a hardened washer to distribute the load over the bushing and the ear and you tighten it all down. You'd probably still want to have another bushing on the other side of the strut but without the spacer base... or you could opt out of the caster cheat and just plan on using two spacers per side (each 2.5mm instead of 5mm).

Ok, so that's my exceptionally long post for the day... Take it with a grain of salt since it's 100% speculation.

Wow....Roger that makes sense and I will try to draw something up to better visualize the product. I like the idea stated in option #3 as it can knock two things out with one modification. Caster being a good thing isn't my biggest problem and I honestly feel I should fix one aspect of the setup before exploiting more of the areas I could make better...So perhaps Option #2 is the best unless another option is discovered. I appreciate your help and explaining what my inquiries are hovering around. Does anyone have any type of dimensioning on such a process of developing a bushing system that enables adjustable camber settings?! Or is it completely different as everyone's cars are in different conditions and built to different needs? I guess I'm asking for the ID of the EVO8 Strut towers and the OE ID dimensions to create a bushing that could work.

Probably the simplest thing you could do to have it good and done NOW would be to build it up in pieces instead of machining out of a single piece.

Get two 5mm thick pieces of material and drill them out to match the holes in the spindle. These will be your spacers. They'll go on the front face of the spindles and there won't be anything special about them.

Put the struts on a mill and slot the upper holes on the inboard side by about 3mm and then round it out so the holes are still circular.

Get / make a sheet of material the same thickness as the ears. Use a hole-saw and punch out four circles that are the size of the unmodified evo holes and another four the size of the enlarged holes (one for each side of each bolt on each strut so 8 total). Remember that it'll be the ID of the hole-saw that dictates the size of the plugs so maybe you'll want to get SAE hole-saws which are the nearest next-size match to metric and then use a sander to shape them down to size. Then drill holes in those blanks, offset all the way to the edge, to serve as your eccentric bushings. You might also find that there are fender washers which are a near match with inner holes small enough that they could milled out offset to get the same eccentricity.

Assemble.