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3000GT brakes installed.


Vman911
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 849661 posted 11/14/09 06:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I got one side done. Need to replace wheel bearing on other side. Looks good with the 12.5" rotors. I had to space out 5/8" to clear the rims.






Edited by Vman911 (11/14/09 06:56 PM)

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Garfield Wright
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 849663 posted 11/14/09 07:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Nice . How much thread did you have left for the lug nuts to bite? I also notice you still still have the 4 lug setup.


Edited by Garfield Wright (11/14/09 07:09 PM)

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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 849673 posted 11/14/09 07:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Vman911:

I had to space out 5/8" to clear the rims.




That sounds really dangerous.



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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Garfield Wright
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 849814 posted 11/15/09 11:32 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I agree, which is why I ask about the lug nuts. You either need a wheel with a better offset or stronger & longer wheel studs.

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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 849818 posted 11/15/09 11:39 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I don't know if I'd even trust longer/stronger lugs with that much of a spacer. Get different wheels before you cause an accident. If it was only 1/4" or so I'd say it'd be OK but 5/8" is a lot.

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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Zenith
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 849821 posted 11/15/09 11:51 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That looks like a Project KICS spacer, but without the hub-centric rings.

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Lonewolf64
Obviously the answer is......
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 849843 posted 11/15/09 01:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Am I right that the ebrake has to be sacrificed to fit these on the rear? Or did you build a custom bracket to attach the ebrake line?



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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 849875 posted 11/15/09 05:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If you put 3KGT rear brakes on the rear you will lose the e-brake. There is no bracket that can be made since they don't have the e-brake built into the calipers, its a totally separate set up.

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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Garfield Wright
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 850075 posted 11/16/09 05:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Vinman just reminded me that he's running the spacers with the lugs attached. Hence there's no issue with lugs being secured to them.

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belize1334
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 855820 posted 12/07/09 01:21 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Is this 1G or 2G 3si calipers? Reason I ask: 1G has bore of 2.15" while 2G has bore of 1.68" making the 2G a "closer" match (in terms of total piston area) for use with DSM proportioning valve.



Roger B. Scott
'91 Belize Green

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Garfield Wright
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 855885 posted 12/07/09 10:11 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
1g

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DougPorcaro
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 855919 posted 12/07/09 11:18 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
My friend's Evo has 1" spacers of that same style on all 4 wheels. They have been on for about a year. People run that style spacer all the time, even at widths greater than 1" and have no problems.

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cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 855977 posted 12/07/09 02:15 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting atc250r:

If you put 3KGT rear brakes on the rear you will lose the e-brake. There is no bracket that can be made since they don't have the e-brake built into the calipers, its a totally separate set up.

John




True, but you can fit a 3KGT rear end (almost identical) and use the 3KGT hubs which have a drum E-Brake. Then you can fit your 3KGT calipers to the rear and keep your E-Brake. More work but worth the effort if you want better rear brakes and still considerably easier than doing something completely custom.



Getting old sucks ... but it sure beats the alternative !!!

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dime2nr
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 856033 posted 12/07/09 05:36 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
do you have more details

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cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 856158 posted 12/08/09 12:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Okay these are the pictures, they aren't brilliant and I wish that I had taken pictures 'prior' to installation as it would make things much clearer to explain.













Okay to recap, the main advantage to doing this is that on the 3KGT, the e-brake is a drum design incorporated into the rear hub, NOT into the caliper. By using a 3KGT rear end with lower 'trailing' arms, knuckles and hubs you get yourself an e-brake which is independent of the calipers. The 3KGT 'trailing' arms bolt straight in without modification.

Track at the rear will be slightly wider. Given that the rears usually tuck further than the fronts, on stock wheels this is actually a plus because it balances out the track nicely. If however you have used after market wheels with a different offset or have used spacers to bring the rears out already, be aware of the fact that the rears will probably sit proud.

At this stage the remaining modifications you will/may need to do are as follows. Unless you plan on using stock 3KGT rear calipers, you will need to make brackets for your new calipers. I am using AP calipers but remember even if you use 3KGT four pots, they came stock at the front, NOT the rear, so you will still need brackets to install them in the rear.

If you have already done a 5 lug conversion you can stick with the 3KGT hubs. If not you will need to do some modifications to retain the drum e-brake and install it on the 4 lug hubs. I cannot remember if this involved any machine work but if anyone needs to retain 4 lugs and runs into problems, I'll try to get the full information on this part. In retrospect doing this in conjunction with a 5 lug swap would have made more sense as it offers more wheel choices. I had already purchased 4 lug wheels when I did this so I stuck with the original hubs.

Lastly, if I recall correctly we used the stock 3KGT rear rotors as the 'hats' for the new AP rotors and just turned them down and drilled them. Again I cannot remember exactly, but I believe that this was necessary because the design of the stock rotor includes an interior face to contact with the pads of the drum e-brake.

Edit: Thinking about this more, perhaps this was the machining work that I remembered being involved. Seeing as I retained 4 lug hubs, it may well be that we had to machine the interior of the stock 4 lug rotors to accommodate the e-brake before turning them down and drilling them to attach the newer larger diameter rotors. So again if you go to a 5 lug setup you may save yourself some work.

This was all done a while ago so I'm a bit rusty on details. I know some other members including Toybreaker have explored this since I did it, so they may have the parts at hand off the car to offer more information. There is however minimum customization involved. The parts are all stock Mitsubishi and bolt up. I am actually surprised more people have not heard about this swap/mod, since retaining the e-brake is a common problem when going to larger rear calipers. This eliminates the need for any complicated hydraulic set up. I happened upon this method of doing things, because vehicle inspection regulations over here state that an e-brake MUST be cable operated. This was the only way I could get around the issue. There are other options out there but I still maintain that this is one of the cleanest, safest and more importantly, one of the simplest ways to do it!


Edited by cheekychimp (02/14/10 02:54 AM)

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belize1334
well bread and nobly conceived
1334/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 856633 posted 12/09/09 12:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:


By using a 3KGT rear end with lower control arms, knuckles and hubs you get yourself an e-brake which is independent of the calipers. The 3KGT control arms bolt straight in without modification.





So you need to use both the 3kgt control arm AND the 3kgt trailing arm/hub? Would the OEM control arm not bolt onto the 3kgt trailing arm/hub? Also, is it just the 1G rear-ends that are compatible or could it be done for 2G stuff as well? Lastly, has anybody experimented with swapping the front hub assembly (negating the need for caliper mount adapters)?



Roger B. Scott
'91 Belize Green


Edited by belize1334 (12/09/09 03:44 PM)

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cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 856733 posted 12/09/09 06:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sorry my bad terminology. You just need the lower "trailing" arm. Stock control arms should bolt up. I have Andre's adjustable control arms however so you should check if the wider track affects the suspension geometry. I think that the wider track is caused by different design of the hubs though, so you should be good.


Edited by cheekychimp (04/15/10 10:10 PM)

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BrandonEchols
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890578 posted 04/15/10 01:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Has anyone else done this?
Is this the "trailing arm" assembly that's being discussed?







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RedTwo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890685 posted 04/15/10 07:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah that's the bit, I've got it on my car right now. It should all bolt up but will push the wheels further outwards. The handbrake cables are longer so you need to hack up your handbrake adjustment bolt to get it work. I should probably update my progress on this....

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kartorium
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890715 posted 04/15/10 09:36 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
How much wider are we talking here in the rear?

Looks like by using the 3kgt arm you also get the added benefit of losing the "active toe" crap? Or did the 3kgt have the flexible setup too?

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cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 890721 posted 04/15/10 10:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Karter, it isn't much difference in track. In fact if you are using stock size wheels it is a nice mod because it balances out the stance of the car as stock the rear wheels seem to tuck in further than the fronts. I'd guess maybe 5-10mm on each side. As for the active toe stuff, I reinstalled the active toe eliminator kit on the new trailing arms. I think stock it is similar to a 1G in that it moves passively.



Getting old sucks ... but it sure beats the alternative !!!

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RedTwo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 891300 posted 04/18/10 08:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah what cheekychimp said, about 10mm each side due to the drum brake. You should really use the 3000GT upper and lower control arms because they have larger ball joints? than the VR4, basically the VR4 arms wont bolt up very nicely.
3000GT (at least the JDM version) family (includes Diamante, etc) has 4WS so you're either ditching it, or living with it or fixing it.

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Scientist
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 891318 posted 04/18/10 09:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
later GTO MRs don't have 4WS



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ETalon
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1072587 posted 06/21/12 08:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hello,can you help me with advice? What shock absorbers did you install in your car when you installed 3kgt trailing arms?
Cause I have DSM 1g AWD and I want to put 3kgt rear trailing arms on it,when I compared my old trailing arms and new 3kgt trailing arms I noticed that construction has a bit difference in stud that holds shock absorber. In 3kgt trailing arm stud taller than DSM/Galant trailing arm by ~4 inch. I don't tried yet to install new subframe with this trailing arms on my car so I don't know how it will look assembled but I fear that if I assemble it with my stock shock absorbers it will be very high ride height on the rear axle.


Edited by ETalon (06/21/12 08:25 AM)

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cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1072608 posted 06/21/12 10:36 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Can you post a picture to show what you are talking about?



Getting old sucks ... but it sure beats the alternative !!!

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