Okay these are the pictures, they aren't brilliant and I wish that I had taken pictures 'prior' to installation as it would make things much clearer to explain.
Okay to recap, the main advantage to doing this is that on the 3KGT, the e-brake is a drum design incorporated into the rear hub, NOT into the caliper. By using a 3KGT rear end with lower 'trailing' arms, knuckles and hubs you get yourself an e-brake which is independent of the calipers. The 3KGT 'trailing' arms bolt straight in without modification.
Track at the rear will be slightly wider. Given that the rears usually tuck further than the fronts, on stock wheels this is actually a plus because it balances out the track nicely. If however you have used after market wheels with a different offset or have used spacers to bring the rears out already, be aware of the fact that the rears will probably sit proud.
At this stage the remaining modifications you will/may need to do are as follows. Unless you plan on using stock 3KGT rear calipers, you will need to make brackets for your new calipers. I am using AP calipers but remember even if you use 3KGT four pots, they came stock at the front, NOT the rear, so you will still need brackets to install them in the rear.
If you have already done a 5 lug conversion you can stick with the 3KGT hubs. If not you will need to do some modifications to retain the drum e-brake and install it on the 4 lug hubs. I cannot remember if this involved any machine work but if anyone needs to retain 4 lugs and runs into problems, I'll try to get the full information on this part. In retrospect doing this in conjunction with a 5 lug swap would have made more sense as it offers more wheel choices. I had already purchased 4 lug wheels when I did this so I stuck with the original hubs.
Lastly, if I recall correctly we used the stock 3KGT rear rotors as the 'hats' for the new AP rotors and just turned them down and drilled them. Again I cannot remember exactly, but I believe that this was necessary because the design of the stock rotor includes an interior face to contact with the pads of the drum e-brake.
Edit: Thinking about this more, perhaps this was the machining work that I remembered being involved. Seeing as I retained 4 lug hubs, it may well be that we had to machine the interior of the stock 4 lug rotors to accommodate the e-brake before turning them down and drilling them to attach the newer larger diameter rotors. So again if you go to a 5 lug setup you may save yourself some work.
This was all done a while ago so I'm a bit rusty on details. I know some other members including Toybreaker have explored this since I did it, so they may have the parts at hand off the car to offer more information. There is however minimum customization involved. The parts are all stock Mitsubishi and bolt up. I am actually surprised more people have not heard about this swap/mod, since retaining the e-brake is a common problem when going to larger rear calipers. This eliminates the need for any complicated hydraulic set up. I happened upon this method of doing things, because vehicle inspection regulations over here state that an e-brake MUST be cable operated. This was the only way I could get around the issue. There are other options out there but I still maintain that this is one of the cleanest, safest and more importantly, one of the simplest ways to do it!