I'm starting to get ready to install my new motor and turbo into my a/t ggsx and for some reason I just REALLY don't like how the turbo outlet pipe runs over the exh mani on all the galants I see. Has anyone managed a more conventional (ie. dsm style) piping solution? I will be using either my 14b or eiii16g. Not decided yet which power level I want.

Thanks in advance

T

Why don't you like it? If it's for performance reasons, don't bother changing it. It doesn't make a difference. There are all sorts of theories/arguments about how the pipe gets hot running over the manifold, but in practice, it really doesn't matter. I've logged intake temps on my setup on hot days with temps only a couple degrees above ambient right before the throttle body.

If you don't like the way it looks, then that's your opinion and you can run it however you want.

I should think that you could use a j-pipe like the one used when swapping a 16g or 14b onto a 2G dsm. That'll get the piping down below the turbo. From there it'll depend entirely on your intercooler design. If you use a traditional design you'll have to run toward the passenger wheel well and then route it just like most of the standard kits do. If you do top-bottom flow ic then you could in principle run it to the drivers side. The only problem with that is that you're limited on IC size w/ a top-bottom flow ic since the end-tanks take up alot more room than on a traditional setup.

If you are able to clock the turbo, do so. Not that it matters, but itll accomplish what you are looking for. It might take a little more work running the piping to the intercooler, depending on where the inlet is.

Clocking a factory Mitsu turbo is just dumb. Do it when you have to. My turbo faces down because I couldn't clock it to run the piping like the stock setup. Don't make stuff harder for yourself.

It's purely aesthetic. I already have a somewhat fast dsm, this just needs to be clean and quick. It's just me I know, but I find the over the top outlet to be distracting. For reference, the FMIC I have chosen:



And it fits quite nicely behind the bumper


Have you seen anyone successfully run the outlet underneath? I made it through 5 or 6 pages of beautiful GVR4's in the gallery and didn't see any.

Guys run them just like DSM's all the time, but you need to be able to come into the back of the endtank to do it. Otherwise you'll have to move the intercooler to the passenger side a bit to make the bend where the piping comes through the core support.

The core you've chosen makes the hot side entry a bit difficult since the inlet is both down low and points sideways.

Mark, if you recall someone logged BELOW ambient temps running his 20ft of IC piping... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

I've seen lots of guys clock 20gs and other turbos down on GVR4s over the years,but I don't recall seeing anyone do it with a 14b/16g. Likely because its not worth the trouble,fabbing an over the top setup is so easy there's no point in re-inventing the wheel.

Like mentioned by others,the side inlet is gonna make what you want to do PITA at the very least.

I originally wanted to clock my 20g down. In my case,the problem I had was that while the inlet is on the back of my IC,the pipe would be directly in line with the AC lines. There was no clean way to route without seriously fukin the lines or mounting the IC out of wack. Without AC or moving the inlet on the IC would have made it easy,but coming in from the top with a elbow at the bottom made it a piece of cake to route. My previous IC with the inlet on the side was similarly as easy.

A better question is does anyone sell a stock route (over the EM) J-pipe for a 14b/16g with and output diamter of 2.5"? Seems like the only option I can find is the Dejon 2.5" that drops it down underneath the exhaust manifold.

I use a stock j pipe, then use a 1.75in coupler to 2.5in like this:

Mine is pretty similar but runs down in front of the ABS pump, there's a little plastic tray that unbolts, or you can cut out the 2.5" pre moulded cup holder in the middle of it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Quoting TurboTony:
Have you seen anyone successfully run the outlet underneath? I made it through 5 or 6 pages of beautiful GVR4's in the gallery and didn't see any.



To answer your question, yes. Brianawd runs his like this. turbowop has the same turbo and intercooler core and runs his over the top.

Quoting DailyDSM:
A better question is does anyone sell a stock route (over the EM) J-pipe for a 14b/16g with and output diamter of 2.5"? Seems like the only option I can find is the Dejon 2.5" that drops it down underneath the exhaust manifold.



ETS has a stock like 2.5 J-pipe. It also replaces the rubber piece that runs over the manifold. A small diameter pipe is welded to the flange, but it expands to 2.5" almost immediatly. Im sure they can get one to you if you call them, but otherwise, Ive only seen it sold with the kit.

second pipe from the bottom.

Excellent feedback fella's, thanks a ton. In case it is relevant to the conversation, this isn't a GVR4 (it's a GGSX), so there isn't any "stock" stuff here. Thus, nearly every piece of piping will be custom fabricated. Also, the a/c has already been removed along with the power steering cooler, so there SEEMS to be plenty of room. However, I still want to avail myself of the great information on the board. Another option I had considered was selling the Greddy FMIC in the picture and buying a slimmer unit (stock evo?), that would fit up and inside of the bumper brackets, unlike this fatty as you can see below



My theory is that inlet/outlets 3 inches higher would allow me to drill out passage for piping through body just outside of the radiator.

Thoughts? Any market for a big honkin greddy fmic on here? I hope that isn't a breach of protocol as a relative n00b to the board. Also, anyone know if ETS will sell just the j-pipe?

Thanks

T

If you're going to custom fab everything, why is this even a question? Fab it however it needs to fit. Do it how you want and be happy. GSX or VR4, the core support is the same.

I agree with wop, he's a smrt mtherfcker.

If you don't want to use a big J-pipe to get things pointed down below the turbo you CAN clock the compressor housing by removing the alignment dowel. This won't affect turbo performance in any way but it will make it impossible to use the stock waste-gate actuator. So, if you're gonna run an external waste-gate (either off of the manifold or as part of the o2 housing) then this might be a nice option. If you're gonna stick w/ stock wg function then you're stock w/ stock compressor housing alignment.

I think one think that kept me from wanting to change anything, was that the stock A/C lines route in such a way that your hotside pipe has to go through at a downward angle, starting from high up.

Also, I can't think right now, but wouldn't you have to change the wastegate arm? Although that's not making sense in my head because the same turbo will fit on a DSM. I just keep thinking the wastegate arm bolts to the compressor housing.

Quoting 4doorDSM:
I agree with wop, he's a smrt mtherfcker.




Not this guy again...

Is the top row of your I/C on the piss? It looks like someone squashed one half of it.