Hi,

This is the first time it happened to me, i was driving at around 40-60% throttle, .8 bar of boost, 5k rpm, the all of a sudden some oil squirted out of my hood vents on to my windshield.

When i got home, i saw some oil splatter all over the engine bay and found out that the source of the oil splatter is because the oil dipstick poped out a bit (around 1/4 out).

My question is, what may have caused this, second, how can i tighten that dipstick on so that it wont pop out again.

thanks.

chris b

Take a pair of pliers and crimp the tube a bit so that the dipstick is locked in a little tighter. It's common for the rubber stopper on the dipstick to get worn out and let it pop out.

crimp it or buy a new dipstick

It's popping out due to excess crank case pressure, the engine is getting tired. Crimping the end of the tube or getting a new stick is only masking the problem.

Help it breath by doing a catch tank breather setup like this:


Obviously doesn't have to be too drastic, but you get the idea.

thats not always the problem. i have a catch can setup on my car as well and at full boost a few weeks ago i popped the dip stick out

Quoting OSiRiS:
It's popping out due to excess crank case pressure, the engine is getting tired. Crimping the end of the tube or getting a new stick is only masking the problem.

Help it breath by doing a catch tank breather setup like this:


Obviously doesn't have to be too drastic, but you get the idea.



Mine did the same thing, dipstick popping out, till I had a setup EXACTLY seen in this picture. Get a catch can with two inlets and a filter, and it will fix it! It only pops out a little bit instead of all the way. Also, replace dipstick with a 2g one and you should be good to go.

From Vfaq.
Quote:
Dipstick popping out - happens due to crankcase pressure pushing the dipstick up:

* A good running motor will blow out a dip stick with a shriveled hard rubber seal
* A dead motor (lots of blow by, busted pistons) will blow out a good dipstick
* A 1/2 dead motor will blow out a 1/2 dead dip stick

Depending on the actual cause and the severity, the fixes can be:

* A spring/wire to hold the dipstick down
* Pinch the tube at the top a bit
* Get a new dipstick
* A full engine rebuild or new pistons

Quoting OSiRiS:
It's popping out due to excess crank case pressure, the engine is getting tired.



Maybe the rubber seal on the dipstick is getting tired?

John

I wrapped some cloth tape (duct tape, electrical tape, masking tape, etc.) around the rubber bit and it worked a treat.
Problem with crimping the dip stick pipe when you've got old, hard rubber is it will eventually break if you keep forcing it into a tight hole.

The PCV valve, when working, 1) uses intake vacuum to help relieve crankcase pressure, and 2) stops positive (boost) pressure from moving from the intake to the crankcase.

OP, you should change your PCV, it can only help. Use OEM only! $10 part.

Thanks guys for the suggestions. i learned a lot from it!

will try to replace the dipstick and get a catch can then will know what happens. thanks guys!

chris b

How do you do those fittings on the oil breather outlet on the cylinder head?

chris b


Quoting stealthtt24:
Quoting OSiRiS:
It's popping out due to excess crank case pressure, the engine is getting tired. Crimping the end of the tube or getting a new stick is only masking the problem.

Help it breath by doing a catch tank breather setup like this:


Obviously doesn't have to be too drastic, but you get the idea.



Mine did the same thing, dipstick popping out, till I had a setup EXACTLY seen in this picture. Get a catch can with two inlets and a filter, and it will fix it! It only pops out a little bit instead of all the way. Also, replace dipstick with a 2g one and you should be good to go.

Crimping doesnt always work either.. I recommend putting a small hose clamp towards top and zip tieing the thing down.

what about this two oil catch can set up i saw in the dsm forums? i read there that they prefer a filter-less system. dont know why.

i have a couple of questions about this set up:

1. im planning to DIY my own catch cans. is there any special materials that are inside a catch can? or is it just a plan can that stores oil? can someone show me an inside of a catch can?

2. on this set up, why do i have to connect one of the catch cans on the intake manifold, and the other on the intake pipe (please see diagram)?

Quoting chrisb33:
i read there that they prefer a filter-less system. dont know why.



Thy wanted to run it pretty much the way it came from the factory. Probably for emissions reasons, or to prevent the smell of oil vapor, or possible to put a vaccume on the crankcase(which is a good thing to do, but the hp gains from doing this on a small displacement engine debatable).
-Ryan

^^ +1, without a vacuum source ( in reality a lower pressure area than the head ) the vapors don't evacuate as well.
Excellent write-up with dyno testing in this months Import Tuner mag showing that filters don't anything and can even cost power.

The "filterless" system is better because it pushes and pulls air from the intake, past the MAF sensor, and also routes to the intake manifold when it's under vacuum so it pulls fresh air in from the intake. The stock vacuum routing was actually designed pretty well from a performance standpoint, as well as from an emissions and economy standpoint. Double catch tanks and a check valve are the most optimum setup short of actually running a crankcase vacuum.

A breather catch can open to the air either doesn't replace with fresh air and doesn't pull a vacuum, or you're constantly pulling in unmetered air to the intake. Filter setups with no manifold/pcv connection also tend to spray oil vapor in the engine bay, which both gunks things up, and is also vaguely flammable if it ends up somewhere like on the exhaust manifold.

On another note ( sorry for highjack ), my dipstick began popping out after turning the boost up at a 1/4 mile event last week. First time it ever came out.
I was on about 18-19psi and thought I had torched the clutch ( synthetic oil burning on the mani smells much the same as fried clutch ). Cleaned up the surface oil, no more runs, turned the boost down to the usual 15psi, and drove her home with no issues. Checked the intake tract the following day, no excess oil in the tube nor in the turbo lines. Kept an eye on things, no change.
Replaced my tired 14b with a small 16g on Monday. Put about 50 miles on it then ran her thru the gears at full boil. Hit 18psi ( no change to MBC from old turbo ) with a little taper to 16psi. Checked everything at home, dipstick was out about an inch or just past the rubber seals. Pulled the intake tube, again no oil from the head vent.
Gosh I drone on.
Anywho, could my BOV be leaking above 15psi and reverse pressurizing my head and crankcase?!? I am on the the stock 1g, uncrushed, and recirculating. I do have a JDM intake that uses the stock route and has the oval opening for the 2g MAS. The recirc tube points directly at the EVAP and head vent tubes.
Again did not want to start another thread but apologize if I step on some toes. Any thoughts are appreciated.

thanks to a guy in the dsm forum i am now in the process of making my dual custom catch can set up. much like the dual catch i posted above. I will post pics soon when it's installed /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif wish me luck!

chris b

ok im almost done with my dual catch can set up /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif all i need to do now is to buy silicone hoses so that i can hook them up!

here are some pics to share with you guys. the catch can is made out of 3" stainless steel with a drain plug underneath. the big tank you will see with the radiator cap is also a custom made 6" stainless steel methanol tank that holds a gallon of meth. fittings are 3/8 NPT's





will post again when i get the hoses and everything is connected already. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

chris b