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Hidden improvments from OEM

Vince

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
75
Location
Puget Sound, WA
So, recently I have been hit by multitudes of complements about my "un-molested" VR-4. I'm kinda proud of that, knowing she is still 99% stock, and suddenly drawing attention that a 'Kid' has not gotten hold of her...
Not meaning offense to you modders out there, but I understand 26 years with a car looking near showroom is starting to draw interest and attention I really wasn't expecting.
(I've owned 1212 since '93)

So more or less, my question to those of you in the know... "What were some of the significant design/component flaws the '91 was known for?" Things I should really look at addressing to keep 1212 in good order, without real visible changes from OEM?

Thanks!
Vince
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
Unless your looking to make some power, just buying OEM parts an replacing them is all you should really need. If your looking to make more power and stay stock watch Tom's turbo garage on YouTube and build a VR4 like he first did all stealth with everything remaining stock appearing.
 

fuel

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
Assuming your VR-4 is a USDM model, you can instantly upgrade using parts from a 90+ JDM Evolution VR-4 such as:

- 510cc injectors (same as Lancer Evo 1-4)
- Big16G turbo (same as Lancer Evo 2/3)
- larger intercooler and piping
- single board EEPROM ECU (requires matching Evolution MAF)
- 3.909 ratio 4-bolt rear - vLSD for E39A or plate LSD for E38A
- close ratio transmission
- vented hood and extra vents in bumper

Given that some of these larger/heavier JDM parts will be hard to find/expensive in the US, you could go the upgrade path with readily available parts in the US:

- 2G throttle body elbow, ported out to 60mm on the tb side (you'll need larger intercooler piping to suit)
- 1G DSM short shifter
- Evo 8 ECU with harness adapter, MAF, 560cc injectors
- genuine or chinabay Evo III big 16G turbo with 8cm exhaust housing, or go FP HTA68 for max stealth
- Evo III or ported 2G DSM exhaust manifold
- 5-lug hubs from 1G DSM, allows for Outlander front brake caliper bracket to be fitted to run 284mm front discs
- 4-bolt LSD non-4WS rear subframe/diff from 1G DSM
- '90 DSM oil filter housing to allow for external oil cooler.

I'm sure there's more that I missed. Hope that helps!
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
If it were my car, and given the state of the collector's markets (especially in light of the typical comments on vehicles on BaT), you should keep it stock as much as possible.

Now, the alternatives that Fuel and Transparent spelled out (minimally invasive and stealth upgrades) can make the car nicer but may affect its long-term value, mainly to those outside the community. Those of us in the community generally appreciate and value tasteful effective mods. But, we do also value an unmolested car. So you have to decide.

Recently a user purchased a VR4 from BaT and it was essentially unmodified. He did some tasteful improvements that took it away from that condition. Unfortunately, long-term effect of those changes will be unknown since he now lost the car in a fire. Tragic end to a beautiful car.
 

Vince

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
75
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Thanks,
Iceman, I think your closer to what I was trying to ask. I'm sure I could have worded it better with a few less beers!

I, like many here had dreams of taking a '91, and reviving its 'sleeper' capabilities. But I also have 2010 Jaguar XKR, so I already get the rush of 500+ ponies yanking me effortlessly to 155.
The Galant, has always been a DD since purchase in '93. Although by no means is she flawless or truly showroom, she has been kept up, maintained, and rust free. But the last year or so, I have been inundated by complements coming out of nowhere...
Soooo.....
I'm starting to rethink the rarity (you don't even see the normally aspirated version of this chassis often either) maybe more fun and maybe someday valuable (not sure it can really become a collectable, but...).

So for now... Factory original is my thoughts.

Now... Here is where you all have knowledge I lack. What 'parts' on the '91 were just poorly made, and have been a constant headache to owners. (Every car made has its Achilles' heel)
I'm already dealing with the growling transfer case, but is there other areas you owners wish Mitsu had done better or differently back when it was built? Again, I'm looking for weak points, and those little annoyances, not power upgrades.

Thanks again!
Vince
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
There isn't too much really. The 5 M/T can be rebuilt with the later year parts (1g Eclipses got improved synchros etc in 93) to cover one of the weaknesses. The rear diff can be made LSD or go to the 4 bolt LSD from the 1g (matches how the Japan market VR4s were built) without obvious change.

Otherwise, unless you want the MFI system stock, you can do the stealth Evo/3g Eclipse MAF install in the original air can for better driveability (but requires computer ROM changes to control A/F ratio).
 
Last edited:

Vince

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
75
Location
Puget Sound, WA
OK iceman, thanks for the data.
So far the 5spd is doing fine, although 3rd has been a small issue missing the shift, and reverse is annoying as it wont engage without a little clutch play.
Is this common and adjustable? Or does it take the more modern synchros to solve those minor issues?
 

Nebraska

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2015
Messages
140
Location
Lincoln, NE
I do not believe anything about the transmission is really adjustable. The clutch pedal is adjustable but that is the clutch master. Don’t touch that. You could make your clutch disk drag and Prematurely kill it, not to mention screw up the disengagement point for ALL gears.

It’s common for these tranny’s to be a bit notchy. They should shift fine nonetheless. Synchro is the right direction.
 

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
You can look into adjusting the shift cables. If they have never been adjusted since 93', the stretch over time may affect shifting
 

strokin4dr

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Messages
2,770
Location
Savannah, GA
I agree with Thom on this one about the stretching. Also, the notchiness can be attributed to old, stiff cables too. A new set of OEM shifter cables was one of the best things I have done to my VR4's. The improvement was a night and day difference. That coupled with a 3000gt shifter is the perfect solution to a crappy shifting Galant.
 

misterfixit

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
1,596
Location
Midlands, UK
Caps caps caps.

If you've been driving it since '93 then please please please pull the ECU and get those caps changed.
You said it was a 91. so if you are running the stock radio and amp, the amp has the same manufacturers caps in too.

The cd players clog with dirt (q tips and ethyl alcahol work really well here).

Other one that is one to keep and eye on is the joints on the wiper linkage go stiff and brittle and they can rattle.
The other three major tweaks or 'maintenance refresh' you need to keep an eye on are:

Water run out plugs on the inner part of the cheek panel inside the rear quarter (just where the rear wheel chucks crap up) make sure they are clear and the drain is still effective.
Rear doglegs, they are held on with glue and 2 clips, make sure you keep an eye on how secure they are, they can have a tendency to disapear if the bond takes a beating.
Battery ground cable to body earth (under the air cleaner on the leading edge of the front right wheel tub) picks up crud and corrodes. ensure its happy and clean (electrically) and your alternator will be your freind for a very long time.

Other than that general seals and rubber parts etc..

Oh and of course the paint on the windshield corner trims and door tops.

I've kept my cars for so long because I love the quality of the engineering in them, they were very heavy on $ for their price and it shows when you work on them. it's no wonder Mitsubishi was in financial straights producing these cars as we got such a great deal!

Cheers

Rich.

Quoting Vince:
Thanks,
Iceman, I think your closer to what I was trying to ask. I'm sure I could have worded it better with a few less beers!

I, like many here had dreams of taking a '91, and reviving its 'sleeper' capabilities. But I also have 2010 Jaguar XKR, so I already get the rush of 500+ ponies yanking me effortlessly to 155.
The Galant, has always been a DD since purchase in '93. Although by no means is she flawless or truly showroom, she has been kept up, maintained, and rust free. But the last year or so, I have been inundated by complements coming out of nowhere...
Soooo.....
I'm starting to rethink the rarity (you don't even see the normally aspirated version of this chassis often either) maybe more fun and maybe someday valuable (not sure it can really become a collectable, but...).

So for now... Factory original is my thoughts.

Now... Here is where you all have knowledge I lack. What 'parts' on the '91 were just poorly made, and have been a constant headache to owners. (Every car made has its Achilles' heel)
I'm already dealing with the growling transfer case, but is there other areas you owners wish Mitsu had done better or differently back when it was built? Again, I'm looking for weak points, and those little annoyances, not power upgrades.

Thanks again!
Vince

 

misterfixit

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
1,596
Location
Midlands, UK
Quoting Vince:
OK iceman, thanks for the data.
So far the 5spd is doing fine, although 3rd has been a small issue missing the shift, and reverse is annoying as it wont engage without a little clutch play.
Is this common and adjustable? Or does it take the more modern synchros to solve those minor issues?



Just another thought there are two types of shifter cable bushing. A solid type (core is full of rubber) and a bridge type (core has open bits you can see through).
Change all the bushes to solid type (easy to get from junkyard) and replace all the tophat bushes in the shift lever mech in the car itself. It should have a real positive effect on the 'feel' of the system.

Rich
 

Vince

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
75
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Appreciated Misterfixit.

ECU has been swapped a couple times now. I do have interest in the ECMlink, so when money is flowing from my pockets it will be an upgrade.
The OEM stereo went away years ago, and now with the times, I have gone modern for hands free-n-such.
Thanks for the heads up on the other stuff... I'll do a walk around and look them over.

I just replaced all the bushings on the shifter itself, and solid mounted the plate to the tunnel (still debating if I like the solid mounts or not). The OEM bushings I got proved worthless, and on one axis actually made the play worse. Visual inspection showed they were not the same as what was in the car, so for that axis, I put the old ones back.
I also have the solid 'bearing' set for the shift cables up front, but have not installed them.

Pulled the manual, and figure I will do the cable adjustments at the same time... Looks pretty straight forward, and I hope it solves my minor shift glitches.

Next and most annoying is the front transfer case. Just gotta figure out which one I have, and I'll buy another. I saw on a youtube vid that there is a place that can fully rebuild/refresh them, so once I have the right one, I hope to find who does it and send it out before replacing my growling one.

Just finished polishing the rear glass to get rid of 26 years worth of heavy water spots... Gads it looks great (new) now! Time to get at the others when weather allows.

Thanks again!
Vince
 
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