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I'm i completely screwed??

MellowVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2009
Messages
1,662
Location
Milwaukee, Wi
I don't even use extractors anymore, they never work for me, I just stack up some tacks on top of the bolt with my tig welder and remove them with a vise grip. I take it you don't have a welder, but maybe you know someone that does.
 

gvr4144

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2014
Messages
170
Location
loveland Colorado
Thanks that's a good idea, my buddy has a stick welder. Will that work?
 

MellowVR4

Well-known member
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Jul 25, 2009
Messages
1,662
Location
Milwaukee, Wi
EEHH, Not sure, I'd say itll be tough with a stick welder.
 

CutlassJim

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Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
1,698
Location
Manchester, NH
Quoting gvr4144:
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
I had to switch to my stock manifold for a little while about a week ago and my buddy put a small vertical line of anti-seize I told him to put more and he said it will spread when I tighten it definitely should have put more. (yes I should have bought new bolts too) I thought it would be fine for a short time. I tried to torch it, a easy out and I made it worse /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif Just want to know any options/solutions. Thanks guys



The bolts breaking wasn't due to the lack of antisieze it was due to you over torqueing the bolts. Your buddy was right about the anti-sieze spreading.
 

MellowVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2009
Messages
1,662
Location
Milwaukee, Wi
I heard putting regular anti seize on threads that are going to see a lot of heat like these bolts, the anti seize will turn hard and will lock the bolts in their. copper anti seize needs to be used with these bolts.
 

donniekak

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
748
Location
surprise az
Drill them out and just use m8 bolts and nuts. When they seize you can break the bolt easily. Then one end with the bolt head pulls easily out the top, and the part of the shaft with the nut seized on it falls out the bottom. Threading a bolt into an exhaust housing is a poor design. All the aftermarket stuff uses nuts and bolts.
 

OldHairyBastard

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2005
Messages
4,510
Location
Northern Chicagoland Area
Weld a nut on top of them and while it is still nice and hot back the bolt out with a 6 point socket. It works almost every time.
 

prove_it

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Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Agreed, I've fixed a bunch like that.
 

gvr4144

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2014
Messages
170
Location
loveland Colorado
Quoting OldHairyBastard:
Weld a nut on top of them and while it is still nice and hot back the bolt out with a 6 point socket. It works almost every time.



I'm thinking I'll go this route, and what about the bolt that broke flush with flange? Also justtook it to the machine shop and called me back saying, I have to take the turbo apart and he has to mill it.
 
Last edited:

CutlassJim

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Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
1,698
Location
Manchester, NH
Quoting MellowVR4:
I heard putting regular anti seize on threads that are going to see a lot of heat like these bolts, the anti seize will turn hard and will lock the bolts in their. copper anti seize needs to be used with these bolts.



I'm not sure if this is true but I always use copper anti-seize on all my regular hardware and nickel on my hugh temp stuff.
 

gvr4144

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2014
Messages
170
Location
loveland Colorado
I also just seen that some of my fins on my exhaust wheel are bent!? Is this normal?
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
When did the bends occur?

If you had eyes directly on them at some point and they were fine, then they looked like this upon removal, then you had shaft play and subsequent fin to housing contact.

Doubt that debris would make those sweeping bends, but could be wrong here. Contact is the name of the game here.

Once you have contact, it is anybodies guess if it is still in balance or not. I would highly suggest, not.

The part is now technically compromised. It is replaceable and a balance is HIGHLY suggested.

Yes, these turbos were component balanced, but this debate could go on forever in some circles.

If you have new parts and the ability to have it balanced, you owe it to yourself to do it.

IMHO.
 

jeverts

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2011
Messages
305
Location
Hartford, WI
Broken bolts are a bitch. When I would have to get them out. I would use a fixture in the bridgeport and have to go in with carbide because the bolts are work hardened to all hell. I would typically drill out the center and that would ease the tension on it and then break out whats left. They are never easy. You may get lucky sometimes but for the most part your better off just getting a new housing.
 

Fish

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Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
206
Location
Idaho Falls, ID
I've had good luck with the welding method. I use a wire feed welder to get all those broken LS and LS based chevy exhaust manifold bolts out. I don't even bother drilling them out as it never seems to work for me.

A stick welder would be harder than hell to do it with. Unless your friend has got some mad welding skills, it will probably just end up welding the bolt to the housing. You would be much better off with a wire feed or tig if you can find one.

Good luck
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Quoting jeverts:
Broken bolts are a bitch. When I would have to get them out. I would use a fixture in the bridgeport and have to go in with carbide because the bolts are work hardened to all hell. I would typically drill out the center and that would ease the tension on it and then break out whats left. They are never easy. You may get lucky sometimes but for the most part your better off just getting a new housing.



You can soften them with a torch first. I broke a tap in a hole once, and of course they are hard and difficult to drill. I annealed it with my propane/oxygen torch first, and it was easy to drill out.
 

prove_it

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Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
With a flush broke stud, a nut is placed as close to the stud as possible and then the hole is welded up until the nut and stud become one. then while still hot from the welding, try to loosen it.


If all else fails, I'll pay shipping to have you send me a free junk turbo since the turbine is damaged. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

turbohf

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Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
IMG_20150905_152425_zpszh2e5l0p.jpg


works great. that one put up a little fight though.
 
Last edited:

gvr4144

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Joined
Jan 26, 2014
Messages
170
Location
loveland Colorado
My buddy that's not half bad at welding is out of town for another week or so. Instead of trying it my self and welding it to the flange, I just took it to the machine shop they charged me 30 a bolt which doesn't seem bad.
 
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