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Practical upgrades (keepin it real) for power


Vince
Junior Member
1212/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217800 posted 10/02/15 09:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Greetings,
So 1212 is once again alive after years of setting and/or neglect, and I have enjoyed seeing the transformation. I'm currently still cleaning up the cosmetics (paint restoration and dent repair), and they are coming along with surprising ease.

So now I find myself curious. I'd like a tad more power, (say +25 to +50), but would like practical advice from those of you that have been acquainted with the performance side of the car over the years.

Reading builds here is overwhelming, as most seek far more than what I am looking for. I would like to retain her full capabilities as a DD, and am looking for a direct bolt on parts path to follow.

Things I see and read here on some of your builds are stunning, but they also show me I lack knowledge of the Galant world as a whole (Yes I bought her in 1993, but she was for my wife.)
Now I see upgrades from 2G engines, newer re-tuned ECUs (I've fried and replaced 2 OEM units in the time I have owned her), obviously turbo and exhaust mods, and even cam swaps.

The reality is I would like to hear what most consider the correct (and hopefully economical) path to adding 25hp, with the assumption that this same path can lead to 50hp should I choose.

Currently she has 148k under her belt, and again, I do not wish to forfeit any of her DD amenities. I am a very skilled mechanic, but age makes leaning over the engine bay painful these days, so I'd rather do it right the first time!

Any guiding words of wisdom (besides using the search engine, which by the way is one of the worst I have seen in almost 2 decades of using car forums! Yeash!)

Thanks, and be gentle please! ....

Vince



Resurrecting Nile Black 1212/2000

Posts: 50 | From: Puget Sound, WA | Member Since: 01/31/15 | IP: (24.113.56.48) | Report this post to a Moderator

EMX5636
Carbon Fiber Cage
108/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217802 posted 10/02/15 10:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The best bet for bolt-ons to make just north of 300HP, is a Big or Evo 16G, a better intercooler, and intake/exhaust. That coupled with a fuel pump and injector upgrade, and tuned by DSMLink, will easily yield you the power you want (if not a little more) and still be totally DD friendly. I still DD mine at 500+whp, so it's really dependent on budget, proper parts/install, and expectations.



91 #108/2000- link
97 Kawi ZX7R Street/Track
03 Kawi KLX400R Supermoto
01 GMC Sierra C3 AWD
05 CTS-V Stealth Grey

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Vince
Junior Member
1212/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217805 posted 10/02/15 11:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So lets start at the beginning, and most logical first step. Intake and Exhaust. Turbos love to breath.
Exhaust is a simple matter for anyone familiar with forced induction.
What are recommendations for intakes? A bigger IC is understood, but if you're referring to a complete center mounted unit, I don't consider it a practical bolt on unless someone has made a simple kit including mounts and plumbing.... Are there improved units that simply replace the stock one at the stock location with no re-plumbing?
Why do I read many have stepped to a 2G intake plenum? Is it (or the Throttle body) a significant improvement over the 1G base unit? Or is it chosen for more aggressive builds?
With cleaned up intake and exhaust, what is the expectations from the stock turbo?

Thanks again, just trying to start a dialog to help me focus on things I do not yet know about the Galant.

Vince



Resurrecting Nile Black 1212/2000


Edited by Vince (10/02/15 11:51 PM)

Posts: 50 | From: Puget Sound, WA | Member Since: 01/31/15 | IP: (24.113.56.48) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbohf
anyone even read this?
613/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217806 posted 10/03/15 12:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
a super easy EVO MAF/550 injectors, intake, exhaust, and more boost will get you well beyond your HP goals and be safe. i road in a non-intercooled 4g63 (not suggesting not using an intercooler though) that made like 250 some whp. car was a blast, and there was deff more in it with an intercooler (kept heat soaking and pulling timing like a mofo, it even shut down the dyno pull).

i always seem to push for more power. but sometimes i really think that i should have put a big 16g and all the bolt ons and just had some simple fun...



Dustin
1991 GVR4 #613
1966 Chevrolet Chevy II Nova 400 4dr Sedan V8

Posts: 540 | From: Lake Stevens, WA | Member Since: 11/18/11 | IP: (184.78.169.242) | Report this post to a Moderator

EMX5636
Carbon Fiber Cage
108/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217819 posted 10/03/15 10:29 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Vince:

So lets start at the beginning, and most logical first step. Intake and Exhaust. Turbos love to breath.
Exhaust is a simple matter for anyone familiar with forced induction.
What are recommendations for intakes? A bigger IC is understood, but if you're referring to a complete center mounted unit, I don't consider it a practical bolt on unless someone has made a simple kit including mounts and plumbing.... Are there improved units that simply replace the stock one at the stock location with no re-plumbing?
Why do I read many have stepped to a 2G intake plenum? Is it (or the Throttle body) a significant improvement over the 1G base unit? Or is it chosen for more aggressive builds?
With cleaned up intake and exhaust, what is the expectations from the stock turbo?

Thanks again, just trying to start a dialog to help me focus on things I do not yet know about the Galant.

Vince




ETS makes a direct bolt on intercooler setup. As far as an OEM upgrade, the JDM RS intercooler comes to mind, but I don't know much else about actually doing it. Intake can be as simple as an upgrade to a 2G DSM or Evo MAF and a cone filter. You will flow much better than the stock 1G/VR4 MAF. Intake manifolds need to go with the head, as the ports are different. You can swap to a 2G throttle body elbow, as it's 2.5" instead of the 1 3/4 or 2" like the 1G/VR4. 1G/VR4 throttle body is already bigger, so stick to that one. With intake/exhaust, and MAF/injectors/fuel pump with the boost turned up mid-high 200 engine HP isn't unrealistic. The Evo3 or Big 16G turbo will push you over the 300 mark with all the same mods as it directly bolts on.



91 #108/2000- link
97 Kawi ZX7R Street/Track
03 Kawi KLX400R Supermoto
01 GMC Sierra C3 AWD
05 CTS-V Stealth Grey

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Vince
Junior Member
1212/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217824 posted 10/03/15 11:30 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Interesting,

Thanks EMX
A quick jump to ETS shows the intercooler requires cutting of the bumper. Can anyone tell me if this is just simple notching here or there or am I required to remove major chunks. I have no desire to alter the external appearance, so removing the grill area is out, if that is what they mean. Haven't found a JDM unit for reference yet.

So, it sounds like sticking with the 1g TB and intakes is more than adequate for my needs, but I should look into a 2G DSM or Evo MAF replacement
and elbow for the intake side?
I assume the MAF swap will require some rewiring? And the OEM ECU handles it just fine?

I may in the long run dig into a 2H head and manifold, but it sounds like for my mild requirements it will most likely be unnecessary, correct?

At what point do the injectors start to give out? Are they still capable of holding their own off the Stock turbo and these mods? Or is it the increase in duty cycles that tend to eat the ECU?


Thanks for everyones patience!
Vince



Resurrecting Nile Black 1212/2000


Edited by Vince (10/03/15 11:31 AM)

Posts: 50 | From: Puget Sound, WA | Member Since: 01/31/15 | IP: (24.113.56.48) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbohf
anyone even read this?
613/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217832 posted 10/03/15 04:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
wiring for the MAF change is simple, and you can buy plug and play harness' so you dont have to hack your harness. guy sells them here actually click

you dont need to swap throttle bodies. although a rebuild might not be a bad idea. but people swap the elbow that bolts to the charge pipe side as the VR4 one has a small inlet. and a 2g one has a larger one making clamping on a 2.5" coupler not a problem.

for your power goals there is no need to swap the head or go threw that trouble. you could maybe swap in some small 264 cams. but no need to touch the head or intake manifold unless something is broken.

stock 450cc injectors are good to shy of 300hp, 550s (evo8/9 sized, good match for 2g/evo maf) are good for 350hp or so. again plenty for your goals?

stock ECU doesnt seem to have a problem with running the different MAF as long as its paired with a set of 550-560cc injectors the calibration works fine. and from what i have seen over the years as long as they are not some junk reman/modified injectors they are fine as long as they arent run past 100% duty cycle, they tend to "freak out". most seem to say 90% is the limit.
i have seen many cars run this with stock ECU without issue. but pairing it with ECMlink will let you fine tune it if desired.


dont know 100% on the ETS intercooler, but from what i have seen/heard its a bolt on kit. pretty sure it does require trimming of the bumper support but not of the bumper its self. but lots of people like that intercooler in the face look. i have a giant Spearco 2-216 core behind a unmodified OEM US bumper cover, but the beam did loose a bit of weight. there is a surprising amount of room back there.



Dustin
1991 GVR4 #613
1966 Chevrolet Chevy II Nova 400 4dr Sedan V8

Posts: 540 | From: Lake Stevens, WA | Member Since: 11/18/11 | IP: (184.78.169.242) | Report this post to a Moderator

strokin4dr
fighting them with a large needle
1280/2000
1135/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217833 posted 10/03/15 04:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
For the ETS kit, there is no trimming of the bumper cover required. You do have to notch a section out the back side of the bumper support though. For the JDM front bumper it is a direct bolt-on affair. No cutting, trim, etc required. I have one on my car with a jdm front and love it.



1908- sold and missed.
1280- 2.3, FP 35R, E85, etc.
1135- 100% stock - 88k miles
'93 Mirage hatch- 4g63, AWD, etc (hoarding for build)


Edited by strokin4dr (10/03/15 04:23 PM)

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217850 posted 10/03/15 07:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Don't change an injector or maf without recalibrating the ecu. It's 2015. All the knowledge about the process is abundant and freely available. A chip and burner can be purchased for $40. No one should even consider changing these parts without a eprom flash.

Posts: 1386 | From: ronkonkoma, ny | Member Since: 12/19/12 | IP: (208.54.87.172) | Report this post to a Moderator

Vince
Junior Member
1212/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217852 posted 10/03/15 08:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Wow, I can feel the itch starting already!
Again, for my desire to hover around 250hp, this all sounds like a pretty easy and inexpensive upgrade! WooHoo!

Intercooler still bothers me a tad so I'll dig deeper for info there. As I have had the Galant from her heydays, it was always her stealth that made pulling next to a 91 Stang so much fun back then. So an in-your-face intercooler is a turn-off for me. Maybe an anodized black unit? (Or stick with OEM....)

The JDM front bumper is certainly cool, but I'll stay stock for now just to keep clear of a paint shops and control costs. (I do admit I love those center grill headlamps I have seen a few images of.... I take it they are pretty hard to find?)

Your input rocks folks, thanks alot!

Vince



Resurrecting Nile Black 1212/2000

Posts: 50 | From: Puget Sound, WA | Member Since: 01/31/15 | IP: (24.113.56.48) | Report this post to a Moderator

Vince
Junior Member
1212/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217858 posted 10/03/15 09:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
tektic
Thanks for the sounding the alarm. I was already on Fleabay looking at 2G MAF sensors wondering what years were compatible for my needs.
Can you point me to more detailed info on re-calibrating options and procedures?

Last time I played with ECUs was in 2005, but it was dealing directly with setting a European car away from American specs. No real knowledge needed except to toggle the euro features you wanted on and off.
Not afraid to learn, but have little room to mess things up and put the car offline for any real amount of time.

My real baby stays in the garage for weekend fun, and I don't want to pull her out for those rainy work days! (obviously, if I have the need for 300+hp and 130mph plus speeds, I already have that covered... )




Thanks,
V

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217859 posted 10/03/15 10:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Everything you need can be found here.
click
Join dsmecu.com for the more complex stuff.

You can get an e-prom burner from eBay for around 30$. And chips for around 2 on eBay as well.

Edit:
P.s. I was doing damn near 130 multiple times during the course of the days driving.


Edited by tektic (10/03/15 10:22 PM)

Posts: 1386 | From: ronkonkoma, ny | Member Since: 12/19/12 | IP: (47.20.56.49) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbohf
anyone even read this?
613/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217861 posted 10/03/15 10:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
ECMLink has you covered for ECU tuning.


i was going to paint my intercooler...


but as you can see, you need to be up in there looking to see it. and that is a 4" thick core. you dont need anything close to that.

here, i got something for you. dont get too caught up in buying more than you need. dont get me wrong the ETS unit is top notch, and i would love to have one. but you dont need it for your goals (still will work)


big one at the back is on my Galant. IndyRaceCore/Spearco 2-216 core measures: 24x10.5x3.5
middle was on one of my projects that made 392whp on pump.
one at the front is a $60 china intercooler that was on my 300whp ITR. core measures like 21x7x2
both of the smaller cores didnt have any abnormal intake air temps. worked just fine.


dont be like me, i over buy shit sometimes... lol... unless you want to, then i have a baller FP Red setup for sale i just took off my car


was budget a concern here? or just not over powering the chassis? some of my suggestions have been budget minded. buying ETS intercooler kit wont harm anything, just expensive. ECMlink will be superior to just MAF/injector swap as you can fine tune ECMlink. etc.



Dustin
1991 GVR4 #613
1966 Chevrolet Chevy II Nova 400 4dr Sedan V8

Posts: 540 | From: Lake Stevens, WA | Member Since: 11/18/11 | IP: (184.78.169.242) | Report this post to a Moderator

89Patches
I <3 AMS


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217872 posted 10/03/15 11:56 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I had the JDM intercooler on #19. It was stock other that a 3" turbo back and boost controller set to 17psi. I had nothing to tune with and I banged out a few 13.6-7 @102 passes. Surprisingly it never hit fuel cut. If I had ECMlink and more injector and pump I have no doubt it would have run high 12's. Was really fun to drive, never broke either! Kinda miss it actually. haha

As for intercoolers. My new car has a custom Garrett core (28x11x4) It's black and you can't even notice it.



Posts: 718 | From: Ontario Canada | Member Since: 01/30/13 | IP: (174.35.243.172) | Report this post to a Moderator

cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
Director of Housing and Urban Development, and carbon/kevlar balls


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217972 posted 10/06/15 06:58 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Vince,

Great thread! I have two VR4s one I won't talk about and the other a lightly modified build that has produced the fastest most fun car to drive that I have ever owned. Consequently I have a LOT of time for your proposed build and think you should find it extremely easy to be honest. I am most definitely not a skilled mechanic but I have a close friend who is thankfully. Regarding your questions I have the following observations.

Firstly, if your car is completely stock, I'd say your 50 hp goal is no more than a turbo and that intercooler swap away. In fact in terms of the goals you have stated, I'd almost say that it would be worth just dropping the car off somewhere and have them build you an intercooler kit. The US stock power output of the VR4 was I believe 195 bhp with that anemic side mount intercooler. Later generation JDM VR4s with a Big 16G turbo and JDM front mount intercooler made 240 bhp. I haven't so far found any evidence of any other differences that account for the power differences. Different intake yes but peak power was within 1 bhp.

There are a lot of things that you could do that fall within the light modification definition but even without a MAF and injector change, I think your goals are easily obtainable with a turbo swap, JDM (or other) intercooler installation and a slightly less restrictive exhaust (2.5 inch is more than enough).

ECMLink has been mentioned and whilst not cheap, it is in a sense a bolt on upgrade to your car in that it provides you with a chip to install in your current ECU which with the addition of a laptop allows you to change your ECU settings on the fly. You can tune the car with it to provide modest gains on an existing setup but you can also make changes to the settings that allow you to run your 2G MAF, larger injectors, different compression ratios (if you change pistons) etc.

It's a very worthwhile investment if you want room to grow but given your very modest goals I still don't see it as 'necessary'.

Given what you have said in your first post in this thread, I would consider sourcing out a full JDM Intercooler kit, or just price up an aftermarket intercooler option. Add to that an EVO III 16G turbo, even more potent than the Big 16G and I think you have your 50 hp, never mind the 25 hp. An exhaust system and a boost controller to raise boost up to as little as 1 bar or 14.5 psi (I believe stock is half that) and you'll be giggling like a school girl. Just be warned, when you find the first step that easy you'll probably want more.

I only run 1 bar of boost on a Big 16G (I still haven't fitted my EVO III 16G turbo) and like I said this is the fastest car I have ever owned. I regularly get thumbs ups from all sorts of fast street cars that this setup easily matches and all I really have on you is a short ratio gearbox, slightly larger injectors (EVO 560cc), AMG Galant intake and a JDM EVO III intercooler. I'm pretty sure even my "HKS" air filter still utilizes a 1G MAF!

2G pistons are an upgrade that offer better low end driveability off boost in my opinion but I don't think they offer anymore power.



Getting old sucks ... but it sure beats the alternative !!!

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217975 posted 10/06/15 08:33 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
ECMlink would be the first upgrade I'd do. Hell, you could squeeze damn near 20hp out of a bone stock VR4 on a good tune with a bump in boost. If you're looking for quality over quantity, a good tuning solution is the answer. There's not another single bolt on mod that will net you more gains than ECMlink.

My bare bones list would be:
ECMlink
WBO2
Evo 560s
fuel pump (preferably paired with an AFPR)
FMIC
Exhaust (full prefered, but cat back would suffice for 20 ponies)

Couple those modifications with a good tune and you're at, or over a reliable 300hp. The 14b is a capable turbo at that power level, and the stock MAF will work fine there as well. You'll want to swap in a plug that's a step colder depending on boost level, as well as take care of the obvious maintenance stuff before any mods take place.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (10/06/15 08:37 AM)

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transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217977 posted 10/06/15 09:55 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Brett thats a perfect list, only thing i would suggest is pull the turbo for a rebuild. if you really want to make 300ish and keep it reliable you'll want to do this. also while i was in there doing that i would have the exhaust manifold and the turbo hot side mildly ported/cleaned up and get them ceramic coated. i know it might not seem like much, but a little better airflow and helping keep that heat in the exhaust and out of the engine bay will help with the longevity of the motor and turbo.



138/2000

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prove_it
my racist jokes aren't actually funny
715/1000
1284/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217988 posted 10/06/15 12:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Don't forget the maintenance to the engine, trans and chassis!



#1284/2K NB, Totaled
#715/1K KG, Rebuilding
02 Acura TL daily duty unit

12yr+ Vr4 owner.
Honda/Acura master tech.
Family Guy

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transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217994 posted 10/06/15 02:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
yeah first thing i do whenever i get a car, any car, is replace gaskets, seals, fluids and bushings that are worn. when i get something that i plan to mod i replace as many of these as i can without removing the actual engine regardless of what and when it was done, just so i know and im sure it is done and done right.



138/2000

Posts: 3430 | From: Klamath Falls, Or | Member Since: 07/27/11 | IP: (50.37.20.114) | Report this post to a Moderator

89Patches
I <3 AMS


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1218034 posted 10/07/15 12:42 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Oh as how much the JDM intercooler helped the car. It used to run [email protected] consistently on the stock intercooler, once I swapped the JDM core+piping [email protected]'s all day long. I'd say the car made a solid 250'ish whp. But I am not to sure as my ass dyno isn't calibrated correctly with anything under 450whp.

Posts: 718 | From: Ontario Canada | Member Since: 01/30/13 | IP: (174.35.243.172) | Report this post to a Moderator

Vince
Junior Member
1212/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1218293 posted 10/10/15 03:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks again for the input.

The ECMLink is certainly a costly little bugger (What $450+ on FleaBay? Yikes) Am I missing a less expensive option?

Shame about the O2 requirement as I just replaced the OEM one last month (grrrrr). Can a WBO2 mount up to the OEM ECU without issues, or is this something after the ECMLink?
Whats the preferred WB02 to buy (I spotted a few threads talking about the Bosch #17018) and is there re-wiring needed?

Source for the 560s?
Whats the flow rate and pressure needed for a replacement pump (part numbers for review?)

Thanks again for all the excellent info!
I've been having fun with 1212, and am kinda stunned at the number of people on the street that actually know what she is! I'm use to comments and thumbs up over my Jag, but the response has been similar when the younger crowd (remember, I'm old) sees 1212!

Cool!
V

Posts: 50 | From: Puget Sound, WA | Member Since: 01/31/15 | IP: (24.113.52.238) | Report this post to a Moderator

Ian M
Brick Catcher
487/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1218314 posted 10/11/15 08:14 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
50 hp isn't a problem at all. My car ran 12.90s at 105 with a super simple old school setup. "3 exhaust,ported 14b and 2g exhaust manifold,DP,"2 1/4 IC pipes with a Star quest (not ideal anymore),TT RX7 fuel pump,stock 1g MAF pipe,Grainger valve boost controller,stock MAF,450s etc etc. I think it would have been quicker if I'd had more track time instead of making two passes and saying "Ok,that's what it runs!" in fear of breaking my sole transportation.

After that,I did a "3 MAS pipe with the 2g MAS,550s,and an AFC (and finally a pocketlogger) and it ran really strong seat of the pants but I never made it back to the track.

I ran the hell out of the thing for years,and was a reliable DD.This was before everyone had even pocketloggers (I didnt for years),its been a while since I've played with these cars-interesting contrast the simple setups years ago to nowadays,where everyone suggests going to ECMLINK right off.



#487/2000 Summit White


Edited by Ian M (10/11/15 08:24 AM)

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transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1218316 posted 10/11/15 09:16 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Vince:

Thanks again for the input.

The ECMLink is certainly a costly little bugger (What $450+ on FleaBay? Yikes) Am I missing a less expensive option?

Shame about the O2 requirement as I just replaced the OEM one last month (grrrrr). Can a WBO2 mount up to the OEM ECU without issues, or is this something after the ECMLink?
Whats the preferred WB02 to buy (I spotted a few threads talking about the Bosch #17018) and is there re-wiring needed?

Source for the 560s?
Whats the flow rate and pressure needed for a replacement pump (part numbers for review?)

Thanks again for all the excellent info!
I've been having fun with 1212, and am kinda stunned at the number of people on the street that actually know what she is! I'm use to comments and thumbs up over my Jag, but the response has been similar when the younger crowd (remember, I'm old) sees 1212!

Cool!
V





the first thing you should get is LINK and no there is no cheap way to buy it. its a full tuning solution that allows you to change everything. its 100% worth it and really the first upgrade you should do after all regular maintenance has been addressed on the vehicle.

as far as the wideband and the new oem one you bought, leave the new one in place, get an innovate MTX or LC-2 and have a shop weld in the bung for it a few inches down from where the stock sensor is and run both narrow and wideband sensors. as for hooking into link you need to find an unused spot in the ecu.(usually the egr input)

i have some RC 550cc injectors and a AEM 320 LPH fuel pump i am looking to sell. PM me if you want them.



138/2000

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transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1218319 posted 10/11/15 09:26 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Ian M:

50 hp isn't a problem at all. My car ran 12.90s at 105 with a super simple old school setup. "3 exhaust,ported 14b and 2g exhaust manifold,DP,"2 1/4 IC pipes with a Star quest (not ideal anymore),TT RX7 fuel pump,stock 1g MAF pipe,Grainger valve boost controller,stock MAF,450s etc etc. I think it would have been quicker if I'd had more track time instead of making two passes and saying "Ok,that's what it runs!" in fear of breaking my sole transportation.

After that,I did a "3 MAS pipe with the 2g MAS,550s,and an AFC (and finally a pocketlogger) and it ran really strong seat of the pants but I never made it back to the track.

I ran the hell out of the thing for years,and was a reliable DD.This was before everyone had even pocketloggers (I didnt for years),its been a while since I've played with these cars-interesting contrast the simple setups years ago to nowadays,where everyone suggests going to ECMLINK right off.




going to link right off the bat is a huge step. its not like an SAFC or HKS fuel solution, it allows you to change a lot of things and really dial the car in, if you plan on doing any upgrades to the car you'll need things like an safc and a chip for new fuel tables and other controls. that alone will cost almost 350$ and you still need to spend the 50-75$ on the pocket logger to monitor everything going on, so why not just spend the extra money and make life easy, it allows you to log things not log-able in MMCD and it has a few open spots so you can add extra monitoring devices. I.E. fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp ect.. the list can go on. this is all my opinion, but in my mind it makes the most logical sense as a starting point.



138/2000

Posts: 3430 | From: Klamath Falls, Or | Member Since: 07/27/11 | IP: (50.37.20.114) | Report this post to a Moderator

Vince
Junior Member
1212/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1218333 posted 10/11/15 12:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Well,

The costs certainly seem to be mounting. Like Ian M, I came from old school days, where open exhaust, cleaned up intakes, port matching, MSD6A and an HKS cam let me up my boost on my StarQuest (< BTW, Turbo Magazine credits me for giving the Starion/Conquest series that name from my Letter to the editor way back when ('92ish?), and thanked me for it! Sigh, I can now die peacefully knowing I'm famous! (oh wait....I signed the letter anonymous...damn....))

Anyhow, A lot of these recommendations sounds like serious downtime for my DD, and although funds exist to pull the trigger on every one of them, I really need to ponder the hit to my savings considering I spent a great deal just bringing her back to life. In the end, I may well farm out the task to a shop that can take the car, and return it to me in a week.

Anyone know a trusted shop in the Seattle area?

V




Posts: 50 | From: Puget Sound, WA | Member Since: 01/31/15 | IP: (24.113.52.238) | Report this post to a Moderator


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