I imagine that the auto-lock solenoid for these cars is common across a few Mitsu models. I'm just not sure which. Anyone know?

UPDATE: Isolated to single-wire electrical problem. read on...

Rock auto has a parts interchange, will tell you all the other vehicles that use the same part if you click on the part number. The only thing it shows for our car associated with the power locks is the relay though.

The solenoid/ tumbler is mechanical, the only thing electrical is the cap on the end of the tumbler which comes right off. It may just need a good cleaning. I have an extra one if you need it.

I'll pull mine out sometime this week and bench test it. I will certainly take you up on that depending on what I discover. Ahmad like I need more info.

UPDATE:

I pulled my door panel off and before I get into this, wow... Special place in hell for whoever developed that tacky black stickum that holds the plastic sheet over the front of the door. I get why the plastic is there, but that black sh*t... it gets on EVERYTHING. I knew it would, and I was careful, but still...

So I got the solenoid off and tested it and it seems fine. I did this by pulling the panel of the door on the other side of the car and plugging it in there. I thought it was interesting that the solenoids for each side are unique. I mean it make sense on the surface because the lock/unlock movement is direction-specific, so the solenoid on one side needs to move left (relative) to unlock, while the one on the other side needs to move right. Anyway, smarty-pants at Denso thought to make the clip that attaches to the lock actuator bar yellowish/orange-ish for the driver side, and green for the passenger side.



Moving on, the problem is that I'm not getting voltage when the door is suppose to lock. There are 4 wires that come into the solenoid.

Bk = ground
Bl/R = lock
Bl/Bk = unlock
the other one (obscured in the photo and I don't recall) = 0.5v out when locked (i'm guessing so that the car knows the door is locked and the security bits are engaged)\



So in my case, the Bl/Bk wire isn't pushing 12v when it should (or at all, anytime). It strikes me that there's a regulator or circuit of some sort, somewhere that all the door locks come back into. My best guess is that it's in the drivers side door, but I'm not sure. I'll check the service manual later tonight, but if anyone has intel on the location of this part, I'm betting this is where the problem lies...

Thanks!

My door locks on 828 are possessed. I suspect broken wires in the door harness, likely at the door opening area where they have to flex all the time. I intend to tear into that harness and check, because everything at the actuator seems fine.

Well I imagine that the wiring goes into the frame, down, and along the pan to the left of the drivers seat towards the front of the car. I'm wondering where it lands because obviously, the fuse isn't the relay that's handling all 4 doors. That's the key here, I think. I can start there and check for voltage. If there's none, I've got the source of my problem. If there is voltage, I work my way back until I find it.

I thought you were talking about the tumbler. Check the white cap (with the wires) on the end of yours. It pops of and may be stripped or just need to be cleaned. They sometimes corrode if the seal on the tumbler is bad. Btw this is one way to disable the door lock activation of the alarm. Just unplugging it or removing the cap from the back of the tumbler.

Do the doors lock when locking with the key? If so then the tumbler switch is fine. You should wear gloves when messing with that tar crap. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

Ah, I see what's happened here. I've left out a critical piece of information.

My locks were shaved off by the PO. At this point, the actuator for the auto lock system must be the drivers side lock stick or whatever that bit that jumps up and down when you lock and unlock is called. That works fine because when I start/stop the car, and when I arm/disarm my alarm, all the locks lock and unlock...

Save for the driver side rear. So I figure there is a relay where the signal from the lock stick, and probably the key tumbler if I had one, connects to signal all the door locks to actuate.

So, digging a bit deeper through the TSM, I found the following, which should prove helpful. Since the doors and windows actually work, save for the one door lock, I think my ETACS unit is probably ok. I'm guessing at this point, it's going to be the relay itself, or a wire going to the relay that's been goofed. I'll take a look tonight and see what I can find.

Here are the useful bits from the TSM.