Quoting prove_it:
Bottom is a bolt, top is a pin that is bolted to the bracket. It can be removed, but not needed. The tool listed is the same one I use professionally, and has lasted for 12yrs. Got mine at Sears, but most part stores will have one.

note: when turning in, go clockwise and make sure there is room in the master reservoir for fluid to return into. You'll need to turn the tool with a 3/8" ratchet and apply pressure to push the piston in while turning it. It might be really really hard to do, if so the caliper is sticking and should be replaced. If it's hard then gets easy to push in that's just the seal fighting you and it's fine. Check your new pads too, make sure they slide right into the bracket. If you have to force them, then you need to clean the bracket. Rust build-up can cause this and the pads will seize, drag, and wear really fast.



That's a good way to make your ABS pump go faulty. You don't want to push old fluid back up the system - you should be cracking open the bleed nipple while winding the piston back in. I always flush a bit of new fluid through the braking system when replacing pads anyway.

I had no fluid in lines as my brake line got a leak.


Anyway just want to say thanks to all you guys that have helped.


Got it done, need need to put new fluid in and bleed the lines.

Quoting fuel:
Quoting prove_it:
Bottom is a bolt, top is a pin that is bolted to the bracket. It can be removed, but not needed. The tool listed is the same one I use professionally, and has lasted for 12yrs. Got mine at Sears, but most part stores will have one.

note: when turning in, go clockwise and make sure there is room in the master reservoir for fluid to return into. You'll need to turn the tool with a 3/8" ratchet and apply pressure to push the piston in while turning it. It might be really really hard to do, if so the caliper is sticking and should be replaced. If it's hard then gets easy to push in that's just the seal fighting you and it's fine. Check your new pads too, make sure they slide right into the bracket. If you have to force them, then you need to clean the bracket. Rust build-up can cause this and the pads will seize, drag, and wear really fast.



That's a good way to make your ABS pump go faulty. You don't want to push old fluid back up the system - you should be cracking open the bleed nipple while winding the piston back in. I always flush a bit of new fluid through the braking system when replacing pads anyway.



Never thought of it that way, but that makes sense.

Done it that way professionally for over 10yrs, never had a master fail due to this method. It could happen, but even all the manufacturers advise doing the way I have listed.

Think about it, fluid normally flows back into the reserviour after you release the brakes. If pushing fluid back is bad, then masters would fail all the time as the fluid is constantly "circulating". Also there should not be junk in the caliper that would return through the master, if so then your caliper was junk anyway and the master would fail shortly anyway. The junk you see in the fluid over time is water that's absorbed and broke down the fluid. Most of that sits in the master due to the breathing nature of the cap. So... you'll find more junk in the master than your calipers. Calipers don't make "junk".

I've seen far more master failures from people over pushing the brake pedal when bleeding brakes.

The manufacturers do want you to open a bleeder and block the hose when you push a caliper back in to protect the ABS unit, but I have been professionally skipping that step for 30 years, and never had an ABS valve fail.

For what it's worth, of the 100's of techs I've known and worked with, not one will open the bleeder to push back the piston. Never seen anyone do it, so I guess there's 100's of lucky techs that have a perfect record then. Now if only we could play the lottery with those odds.

Block the hose, huh? Yea clamp down on a brake line with pinch off tool, there's a brilliant idea.

Especially one that has aged.