I have been unable to fix my car on my own, but at the same time, I have been unable to find a quality mechanic with proven experience to work on it. Fathouse Productions no longer works on them. Is their anyone left?

Not getting anything but tire kickers or scammers on my car. I can afford to have it fixed, but no one wants to touch it.

These poor cars have no support left. No wonder they end up in the junk yard.

We are the support.

What issues are you having?

I've been posting on the issue for over a year now.

In short, the car just stopped running right with no changes. Compression was fine, but it sounds like it had a major miss-fire and it runs rich.

I ended up having the head rebuilt because my thermostat opened up late and the car ran hot. Some how, compression was well above the service point, but I did find coolant in one cylinder. Number 4 I think it was. I replaced the head, compression is between 150-155 on all 4. Some improvements... The exhaust is cleaner, no sweat smell. Not loosing any more coolant.

The overall problem still exist. As far as I know, all the parts have been replaced for spark and Iceman gave me a used CAS to try. I sent my ECU off to be tested and it was fine, but I'm not 100% sold that it is working right. I've asked to borrow a spare many times, but I can never get one.

The odd part, when it was failing, it would randomly start running right, even when coolant was getting past the head gasket (I suspect it was a micro leak, but not enough to lower compression to the service point). I even drove it out of town and bought new tires for it and it ran perfect. Then one day, it just never ran right. I suspect it is a sensor, electrical problem. I don't have any error codes and I'm not a logger expert, but I spent a whole weekend checking the ranges of everything with pocket logger for dummies and everything seems in spec. It's like everything looks good on paper, but the car just doesn't run right.

I can start it and rev it up, but under load, it feels like it has 50hp. It will start to pull under boost, but I've only hit like 1-2psi. I've double checked the timing probably 5 times now and I've done so many boost leak test. I can't can't find a failure.

Mods are not too big, but more important, nothing was changed in probably 5 years. Tuning is by a keydiver chip.

I also tested the TPS as well.

Have you had your injectors cleaned professionaly? And checked your fuel pump strainer?

Yes on the injectors. No on the fuel pump sock filter, but the firewall filter is brand new. Fuel pump is an upgraded walbro. Maybe 60K miles on it at most. Fuel pressure gauge shows good pressure. It's also running rich, not lean...

Was scouting your FS ad, have you tried swapping out the BOV? Could definitely cause the problems you describe.

That I have not tried. I've lost the stocker. I'd have to get another one.

^^ Post 5555 LOL.

Greddy RS models are notorious for blowing diaphragms ( if that's what you have ). Also is it recirculated? Non with a MAF will usually run rich, couple that with possible bad BOV and a swap would be worthwhile IMO.

Have you posted the issues on Indiana DSM Tuners Facebook page? There at least 3 full-time Mechanics and 1 Mitsubishi Master Tech on that page.

I don't have facebook. I killed my account years ago. I knew that the Indystars web page died. If the BOV doesn't fix it, then I'll look in to that for sure.

Have you checked your wastegate? I had the clip fall off once and the arm came off. Flapper was just bouncing around. I could get 1-2 lbs boost, just like you.

I did check that. It's not that I can't build up more then 1-2psi, its that I don't want to attempt to run more boost when its not running right. I did notice it start to pull more normally once it was in positive boost.

I ordered a used BOV off of ebay. I should know by next weekend if that will fix it.

Tried driving around with the MAF disconnected?

A different BOV didn't change anything. I haven't tried driving around with the MAF unplugged. Why would I try this?

Quoting thomcasey:
Have you posted the issues on Indiana DSM Tuners Facebook page? There at least 3 full-time Mechanics and 1 Mitsubishi Master Tech on that page.



Could you PM me names a numbers? I'd hate to sign up for Facebook just to find them.

Quoting gvr4ever:
A different BOV didn't change anything. I haven't tried driving around with the MAF unplugged. Why would I try this?



Well, if you didn't have an issue like below, then it could be an electrical connection/glitch:

Fuel sock getting covered (like the old snipits of paper in the fuel tank trick) and uncovering after suction is released
Wastegate flapper moving in it's bore, leaving it misaligned or aligned whenever it wants to
Etc.