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light weight flywheel


tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197604 posted 12/29/14 08:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What after market flywheel is worth running. I don't like the aluminum. What else is out there?



7 1G DSM's now a GGSX build.

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pot Galant VR4.org Moderator
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182/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197605 posted 12/29/14 09:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
RRE no name flywheel. Same manufacturing facility as ACT XACT. It measured in at 11.4 lbs versus the factory 17.6 lbs using a generic digital bathroom scale.

No Name Flywheel

Your other option is (which I have never used):

- Jun
- Centerforce
- Exedy
- Competition Clutch
- Clutch Masters
- Fidanza *Not a fan of the replaceable friction material at $80.00 a pop



182/1000

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197615 posted 12/29/14 11:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So the No name RRE Flywheel is IT then.

The XTD flywheel is out of the question right? I heard the pins don't come out so it can't be cut. Is that true? I'm sure this no name RRE one comes from china too.

The Act seems to work and be the preferred lightened replacement to use with my SB clutch. If it is indeed the same as the RRE I guess I'll be giving them a call.


Edited by tektic (12/30/14 12:01 AM)

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turbohf
anyone even read this?
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197620 posted 12/30/14 12:50 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
someone gave me a XTD for free, so i used it on my CRX. i had it resurfaced. so the pins did come out, but they where also mushroomed a little (not sure that was XTD or from hammering back in). that car only had a maxed out 14b (247hp, 7k rpm), not sure i would trust it more then that.


i have a Fidanza in my Galant... i thought that the ACT and Fidanza where standard used flywheels for the 4g63 community?



Dustin
1991 GVR4 #613
1966 Chevrolet Chevy II Nova 400 4dr Sedan V8

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197628 posted 12/30/14 07:26 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have the aluminum fiadanza but I have come to find out it is not compatable with my clutch. Or at least not recommend. While its out I'm going to switch it. If I had stock I would use it, but this is all I have, so I'm in the market for a light weight steel.



7 1G DSM's now a GGSX build.

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idreamidrive
Member +
394/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197639 posted 12/30/14 09:47 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If you want to pay for shipping, and wait until next week, I can send you whatever many flywheels will fit in a flatrate USPS box.

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ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
1951/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197683 posted 12/30/14 03:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I had a RRE lightweight no name. It was a nice piece and would totally recommend.

I'm curious about the adversity to aluminum...I would guess it comes down to poor experience or reputation?

AASCO makes some really nice flywheels, and would be my choice if I did it again. The quality is superb and they are made here. They use steel and aluminum, it depends on the application. We have one on our shop car. It is an 8lb aluminum variant and we love it. Their aluminum units are really meant for road racing..I would see if they could do a one off piece or look elsewhere if I was drag racing.



1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 #1951/2000 (SOLD)
2003 Evo
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2018 JK Wrangler
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presterone
'92 Protege VR-4


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197687 posted 12/30/14 05:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So light weight flywheel and no balance shafts = super duper torsional whip of crankshafts. Im sure people have ran thousands of miles with no issues with a lightened wheel and no balance shafts but doesn't it seem sketchy on paper?



98 BMW 328i
92 GVR-4 #221
92 GVR-4 belize green#702

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197691 posted 12/30/14 05:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
My surface was put on unevenly on my aluminum flywheel. The bolts stripped out holding the pressure plate on and I didn't like how light it was. It reved up real nice but wasn't fun to park. I had disingaugemen issues and a smaller slave cylinder so that didn't help. I also think it contributes to drive train noise. I feel I would prefer something heavier than the aluminum piece although It could be fixed it's much easer to replace.

What I read however is that because the aluminum and steel expands at different rates its prone to warp. Or something like that. I can try to find it but they were talking about the same sout bend clutch and material I'm using and was a comment from a reputable DSM shop. So there's that too.



7 1G DSM's now a GGSX build.


Edited by tektic (01/06/15 10:11 AM)

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G Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197696 posted 12/30/14 07:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Jun solid one piece unit or go home.



www.japanesenostalgiccar.com
www.nostalgic.co.jp

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pot Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197704 posted 12/30/14 09:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
"OOooohh, A Jun Chromoly flywheel, so very jaydeem. I gots to get me one of them" to quote RRE. They infer the Jun is too thin and cannot be resurfaced. Below is a link where they talk a little bit about lightweight flywheels and step height:

RRE's Clutch and Flywheel Tech Info

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cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
Director of Housing and Urban Development, and carbon/kevlar balls


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197726 posted 12/31/14 02:12 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'm pretty sure that there is another OEM flywheel that fits the VR4 and falls halfway between the aluminium units and the stock VR4 wheel in terms of weight. I'll try and dig up the info.



Getting old sucks ... but it sure beats the alternative !!!

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AllanL
Heal and Toe


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197728 posted 12/31/14 04:20 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
this is for the Evo1~3, off a Japanese Yahoo auction site [just Google Translate it]...

can't we source something similar here?

click

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ktmrider
Cool Guy Crowd


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197734 posted 12/31/14 07:34 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^^ Count the bolt holes on that FW, unless the OP has a newer engine...

Also most folks running lightened flywheel's on DD vehicles dislike them, especially those that have lots of stop/go action. Goes for nearly all brands of vehicles, not just ours.



Mike O.
#464/1000 - Sold
05 Legacy GT - slush box
#86/2000 - Sold ( again )


Edited by ktmrider (12/31/14 07:37 AM)

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prove_it
my racist jokes aren't actually funny
715/1000
1284/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197737 posted 12/31/14 08:21 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
My ACT flywheel feels fine and has had no issues. I dd'd it for years and about 30k miles.

I do know that a super light wheel will reduce spool up due to having less load on the engine to assist in spool, but I don't think it's that drastic.



#1284/2K NB, Totaled
#715/1K KG, Rebuilding
02 Acura TL daily duty unit

12yr+ Vr4 owner.
Honda/Acura master tech.
Family Guy


Edited by prove_it (12/31/14 08:24 AM)

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ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
1951/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197742 posted 12/31/14 11:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting ktmrider:

Also most folks running lightened flywheel's on DD vehicles dislike them, especially those that have lots of stop/go action. Goes for nearly all brands of vehicles, not just ours.




This does seem to be the general consensus, but it has not been my experience. After going from an 18lb FW to a 8 lb FW, we found a very minimal loss of driveability. With the lighter unit's inability to store as much energy, the revs drop more quickly between shifts and standing starts require more finesse. No surprise. What was surprising was how minimal it was. It is easy to modulate and once you get used to it, and would be imperceptible in terms of driveability.

The clutch can be thanked for a lot of that. My hunch is that many of the guys who didn't have a good experience switched to a light FW and as well as a new clutch, the latter being the majority of the driveability problem. Now I would hate driving it with a puck style clutch, or any disc that doesn't really like to slip. But those are unsuitable for a street car and a pain to drive regardless.

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cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197758 posted 12/31/14 01:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'd hazard a bet that terrain also has something to do with it. I hated the lightened flywheel in hilly terrain. It's arguable that the difference is minimal on the flat but try a few hill starts and even driving uphill in traffic when you can't build a lot of revs and driveability goes right down.



Getting old sucks ... but it sure beats the alternative !!!

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EHmotorsports
Capt Fabbin Stabbin
1865/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197762 posted 12/31/14 01:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting ApexHunter:

Quoting ktmrider:

Also most folks running lightened flywheel's on DD vehicles dislike them, especially those that have lots of stop/go action. Goes for nearly all brands of vehicles, not just ours.




This does seem to be the general consensus, but it has not been my experience. After going from an 18lb FW to a 8 lb FW, we found a very minimal loss of driveability. With the lighter unit's inability to store as much energy, the revs drop more quickly between shifts and standing starts require more finesse. No surprise. What was surprising was how minimal it was. It is easy to modulate and once you get used to it, and would be imperceptible in terms of driveability.

The clutch can be thanked for a lot of that. My hunch is that many of the guys who didn't have a good experience switched to a light FW and as well as a new clutch, the latter being the majority of the driveability problem. Now I would hate driving it with a puck style clutch, or any disc that doesn't really like to slip. But those are unsuitable for a street car and a pain to drive regardless.





I can second the clutch being the main issue when it comes to drivability. reason being my AE86 had a 20v swap using the factory 12lb flywheel but stock clutch. i then switched to a 9lb flywheel with a new stock clutch no difference. but later on I switched to a 6 puck clutch setup and it made the car a pain to drive when not on track.



click

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slugsgomoo
god hates stupid people
461/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197793 posted 12/31/14 06:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting presterone:

So light weight flywheel and no balance shafts = super duper torsional whip of crankshafts. Im sure people have ran thousands of miles with no issues with a lightened wheel and no balance shafts but doesn't it seem sketchy on paper?




I see you've read Jack's poor conclusions about crank vibrations... Here's my response to a similar post on the friendfaces...

Quote:


it's the one place that I will categorically say that Jack's is wrong, and I think they're great otherwise.

Fact: Mitsubishi built dozens of 4gxx motors that came from the factory without balance shafts. If the motor can't live without them, wouldn't Mitsubishi's engineers be able to figure that out? Let's assume that some of them have a Masters in Mechanical Engineering (or better) and have an idea how torsional & harmonic damping work

Fact: The documentation from Mitsubishi says that the shafts are there to increase occupant comfort by reducing felt vibration from ~3-5k RPM. Felt vibration means your ass is happy, it has nothing to do with the mechanicals.

Fact: Even if replaced regularly, the balance shaft belt is very small, and spins a very heavy weight.

Fact: If you start pushing past factory 7,500rpm limit with balance shafts, you're retarded

Fact: for every revolution the crankshaft makes, the balance shaft makes two. This means that at the pedestrian limiter of 7,500, your balance shaft is spinning 15,000 RPM. If you push out to 8500, it goes to 17,000. I'm spinning to 9,500 RPM, or 19,000 RPM on a balance shaft, on a belt about the size of a power steering belt. This teeny belt has the ability to catastrophically self destruct, taking out very expensive engine parts.

I didn't have clutch drag with an ACT2600 in 2005 with a stock motor, or with a built 9:1 motor with no balance shafts (Same clutch, same shitty transmission). I don't have clutch drag now with a twin disk, aluminum rod motor, and no balance shafts.

I'm not a Buschur fan, but LOL @ click

Also has some decent insight here click posts 6 & 7 seem relevant, but the whole thread, and jack's replies are worth reading.

I should add as a further case in point, the 4G61 does not have balance shafts from the factory. In fact, the proper parts to use for a BS delete come from Mitsubishi's parts catalog as OEM parts for the 4G61...

Realistically, this was ancient news when I got into DSM's in 2002...

vfaq - balance shafts






All that said, I would not run a non-SFI rated flywheel on anything I was beating on, especially at a higher rev limit. I ran a Fidanza in my 1g vs the ACT because supposedly the steel insert is less "slippery" than the chromoly ACT uses. The nice thing for me about the fidanza is that the replacement surface is $60, compared to a new ACT, or even resurfacing that's not a terrible deal. I've got ~35k on the one in my 1g, I did replace the surface when I put a new clutch in (even though it wasn't necessary, cheap insurance to me).

I think that keeping some weight is a plus, the ACT is a bit heavier than the Fidanza and may be a bit more fun to drive on the street. That said, I don't have any problem with the fidanza (clutch is CM FX-400 sprung six puck) and it's light years easier than the twin (though that motor also has steel rods...).


Edited by slugsgomoo (03/03/15 01:16 PM)

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diambo4life
Member
476/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1197795 posted 12/31/14 08:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
#476 had an aluminum Spec FW when I bought it. Worked fine but I was used to the heavier ACT flywheel I had in my old car so I got one. Another good option is the Competition FW. I don't believe it's aluminum. It's a tad heavier than the ACT FW but lighter than stock. Pricing is good.



1990 GSX: New project..
1991 Belize Green GVR4 #476/2000: 710WHP/501TQ (dynojet)in 2014, Street trim, 3400lbs! [email protected] (wastegate)
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FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1198008 posted 01/03/15 09:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Mirage/Colt turbo.
4g63t HKS 264/272 combo with balance shaft belt installed.
4 corner polymount inserts.
MD995656 FWD 1991-92, F5M33-2-SPZV trans with Quaife LSD
FWD DSM Fidanza lightweight aluminum flywheel 8.2 lbs # 161651
MB1-HDSS ACT 2100 clutch and pressure plate
"Torque Capacity (ft/lbs.):320
Recommendation:Recommended for street and race use
Engagement:A low to moderate pedal feel; smooth engagement with stock to low gear rattle"

Driving in traffic is a bother.
Transmission does make the coast down gear whine - directly attributable to clutch/flywheel combo as prescribed.
Clutch pedal is pretty stiff, like yes. No idea what a 2600 felt like. Manageable.
Keeping the RPM's up to control low RPM roll, is decidedly not good, nor low speed traffic situations.
Too much time clutching in, to compensate for low speed roll.
This is where a heavier flywheel makes all the difference, just like your everyday grocery getter in the grocery lot.

Needs a heavier flywheel, and/or a heavier rotating mass like a fluid filled type harmonic dampener.
Take your pic on the route you go. For street - flywheel gets heavier option. For track - dampener needs weight and upgraded safety factor.

Yes, I have a lighter car than a GVR4.

My Passat FWD 1.8T had a heavy as sin stock, dual mass flywheel and it made for really low RPM/near engine lugging ability at low speeds in first.

All of this aside.

I love the speed at which you can bang the gears, but RPM's love to fall off fast with this light weight combination and this does not bode well when you are slow shifting with cold trans fluid in the winter months or even before everything in your trans is up to temp. Without Link and a really proper idle/idle stop switch setup, you will hate a motor that drops off really quick and has trouble compensating for it.

My two cents.



C53A 1 of the ~1500


Edited by FlyingEagle (01/03/15 09:12 PM)

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MX4
Member +++


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1198193 posted 01/06/15 06:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting cheekychimp:

I'm pretty sure that there is another OEM flywheel that fits the VR4 and falls halfway between the aluminium units and the stock VR4 wheel in terms of weight. I'll try and dig up the info.




Yes there is the Evo 0/RS flywheel which is lighter than the standard VR4 flywheel.Heres some photos of the difference



Mitsubishi Galant VR4
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fuel
"Just to be pedantic!"


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1198230 posted 01/07/15 05:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I never knew there was a difference! The RS flywheel still looks heavy though, and looks almost identical to that used in later performance Mitsubishis like the Evo1-3, 7G Galant VR-4 and MIVEC V6 VX-R Galant/FTO etc apart from the obvious crankshaft bolt count.



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EHmotorsports
Capt Fabbin Stabbin
1865/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1198239 posted 01/07/15 08:55 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting pot:

"OOooohh, A Jun Chromoly flywheel, so very jaydeem. I gots to get me one of them" to quote RRE. They infer the Jun is too thin and cannot be resurfaced. Below is a link where they talk a little bit about lightweight flywheels and step height:

RRE's Clutch and Flywheel Tech Info




Pots link to RRE touches on the jdm flywheel a bit.



click

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gtluke
Fegbasket


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1198331 posted 01/08/15 11:56 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
my aluminum fidanza flywheel probably has more miles on it than any galant has total miles in this thread. seriously
If I had to guess it probably has 130k on it.



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galant vr4 1464 12.83 @ 106
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00 2.5rs, for sale

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