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Replacing front wheel studs


matt92vr4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192830 posted 10/31/14 11:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Doing this tomorrow on the G. Never had this problem before over the years. What kind of time am I looking at? How difficult? Hoping to get mentally prepared today before I break out the tools tomorrow. Thank you.



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coyotes
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192832 posted 10/31/14 12:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You will have to remove the knuckle to do it, unless you have removed your ABS sensor rings already.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192833 posted 10/31/14 12:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Don't you need to pull the bearing apart? I can't remember as I havent had abs rings in years.



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turbowop
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192842 posted 10/31/14 01:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If the car still has ABS and the rings associated with it, then the whole assembly has to come apart to get the studs out and new ones in. That means bearings/seals pressed out and new ones pressed back in.



-Mark

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89Mirageman
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192844 posted 10/31/14 01:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I rigged up a simple bracket for this. I just welded a piece of thick plate steel to a threaded nipple that screws onto my huge HF slide hammer. Bolt it up with two lug nuts and the hub will yank right off. You can use the axle nut to pull it back into place after you replace the stud. This way you don't have to bother pulling the knuckle and all that. Might be something to look into if you have a slide hammer and the means to fabricate a bracket.











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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192845 posted 10/31/14 02:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've found that pulling bearings apart are a 50/50 chance of being ok. If they are old, I recommend replacing anyway so they are fresh. My car was a pain to push by hand, then did all new bearings and it was noticeably easier to push. No play in the bearings, just old.



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89Mirageman
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192849 posted 10/31/14 02:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I agree completely. If they're original tear it all down and replace whatever parts are worn. However if all that has been done and you just happened to break/strip a stud the slide hammer method is way easier.



89 SWB Montero V6/manual (for sale)
95 Eagle Summit DL coupe
15 Mitsubishi Mirage ES hatch

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matt92vr4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192852 posted 10/31/14 03:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Wow, thanks for the advice. That slide hammer is sweet!

I didn't know that I have to pull bearings. I'm just gonna order new ones before I tear into it. Was hoping to drive the car this weekend. Have you guys used Autozone bearings? Should I just get them from JNZ and wait? Thanks!



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192854 posted 10/31/14 03:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
OEM or nothing. I've used other off brands and had them fail within 6 months. There is a company that reboxs the OEMs, but the name escapes me right now. There is a seal on the inside also, and get new cir clips for the bearing. Those are dealer only.



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matt92vr4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192856 posted 10/31/14 03:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ug, well thank you for the info. Not exactly what I was hoping to hear lol. So if I want to do both fronts, I can order two of these and be set?

click



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192857 posted 10/31/14 04:32 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yep, one for each side. It's not cheap to do it right, but it's the best. You can always call and ask for a discount on two.



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89Mirageman
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192861 posted 10/31/14 05:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You can take a gamble with ebay or rockauto and hope that you get bearings that were made in Japan, they'll more than likely be the same as stock or at least have the same quality. If they're made in China I'd pass on them, they're crap and probably won't even fit right.

Since you plan to replace the bearings search Youtube for Jafromobiles videos. He goes through the process of doing 1g awd front bearings for his colt but the process will be identical for you. It's really helpful.

Thanks for the props on the slide hammer adapter!



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GSTwithPSI
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192862 posted 10/31/14 05:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
As mentioned, with the ABS rings still in place, the hub needs to be pressed apart. You could use a slide hammer to get it apart as Chris mentioned, but I wouldn't recommend beating the bearings back into the hub. The right way to do it would be with a press.

If you don't give a shit about retaining the ABS, you can actually cut the rings off and leave the hub in place. With the ABS rings removed, the studs will slip right out. Check out this thread if that's something you're interested in: click

Lastly, fuck no I wouldn't go to the stealership and order new wheel bearings. Why the hell would you? Buy the Timken units from Rockauto for half the price. Timken is a high quality bearing, and you'll have zero issues. If I recall correctly, the OEM unit is Timken anyways.

Oh, and if you need some wheel studs, let me know. I have a whole set in my garage I'm not doing shit with. Just pay shipping, and you can have whatever you need.

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

Just order it from Rockauto. I did mine a while back, and I'm at about 1,000 miles without issue.

BECK/ARNLEY Wheel Seal part # 0523303 (052-3303) $ 3.22
SKF Wheel Seal Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty part # 21281 $ 0.86
TIMKEN Wheel Bearing part # 513036 $ 31.79

The bitch part is pressing all the old stuff out, and getting the new stuff back in. You need a press and lots of patience.

From my build thread:
You have to disassemble the entire hub just to get the lug stud out. I figured this was as good a time as any to replace the wheel bearing. Here's the hub with everything removed; bearing, seals, everything pressed out.





Here's all the new stuff. It's pretty simple, just a bearing, snap ring, and 2 seals.



Aaaaaaand...everything all assembled.






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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192870 posted 10/31/14 07:25 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
OE are koyo not Timken. But Timken is probably the only alternative to OE I would trust.



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coyotes
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192871 posted 10/31/14 07:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You can also get FAG brand (lol), they are on rockauto and are an OEM company to many german auto manufacturers.



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89Mirageman
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192892 posted 11/01/14 10:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
They probably have looser tolerances.



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prove_it
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192908 posted 11/01/14 04:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Bah dum dis.

Don't use Timken. I've had several comebacks over the years, it's a 50/50 shot at having a good bearing. They will wear faster than OE. They are decent in low power low abuse cases, but on a GVR4, no.

I don't get why people use cheap replacement parts on their car, but will spend 500+ on an intercooler and over 1k on a turbo..... Food for thought.



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Edited by prove_it (11/01/14 04:31 PM)

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GSTwithPSI
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192912 posted 11/01/14 05:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Timken bearings aren't cheap parts, or inferior to the OE bearing for any reason I can see. How many ways are there to make a race and ball bearings? Kinda hard to fuck that up if making bearings is what you do. Unless you can prove one bearing is made of a superior material over the other, there will be no difference in longevity. And, I doubt you can prove_it. The Timken bearings I installed in both front hubs are working just fine, and I have about 3,000 miles on them at this point. I highly doubt I'll ever have to replace them again.

If you had several comebacks on a wheel bearing job, I'd examine your installation procedure, not the bearing.

I don't know why people automatically assume because you pay twice as much and buy it at a dealership, it's a superior part. That's not always the case.

OP, do what you want. From my experience, the Timken unit is just as good as OE. I wouldn't bother balling out on a set of wheel bearings, but that's just my DSM mentality speaking I guess

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ktmrider
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192926 posted 11/01/14 07:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^^ GST I'll put in a few cents worth here.

Many of the Subaru models eat up non-OEM bearing assemblies including Timken. MY05-09 Legacy models have a hub/bearing cartridge which includes an integrated ABS ring, trying anything other than OEM was a crapshoot ( disables cruise and ABS ). Fronts were particularly sensitive, rears not so much but there were early failures on non-OEM stuff.

Never got a good reason for the issue, all I know is that when I swapped in OEM stuff, about 30% more than the Timken items, all my issues went away.

Now back to that 30% thing, what's your personal time worth? Saving a few $$$ now but doing the work 2x or more will end up costing more long-term. But in this Ebay and Chinese knock-off world no one pays attention anymore.
Quoting prove_it:

Bah dum dis.

Don't use Timken. I've had several comebacks over the years, it's a 50/50 shot at having a good bearing. They will wear faster than OE. They are decent in low power low abuse cases, but on a GVR4, no.

I don't get why people use cheap replacement parts on their car, but will spend 500+ on an intercooler and over 1k on a turbo..... Food for thought.





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matt92vr4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192936 posted 11/01/14 09:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Guess who has new studs and no ABS...<---- THIS GUY!

Thanks for all of your help on this issue. In the past, my ABS pump would stay on occasionally with the key off. I'd have to pop the hood and unplug it. In fact it my be unplugged now. I figure it may not work anyways, so i went the easy route and cut the ABS rings off. It wasn't the easiest thing in the world. Anyone trying it, take note that the GVR4 (at least mine anyways) had more beefy rings than the How-To on DSMTuners linked above. My rings were actually bolted in from the back with 2 12mm head bolts and surrounded all of the back sides of the studs. It's also nice saving $200 and not having to buy a press (I'm weird like that).

It's nice to have new studs and lugs. Now I don't have to worry about the wheel flying off lol. Thanks again!



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192940 posted 11/01/14 09:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I can't speak to how well Timken (or any other brand) bearings work on other vehicle models. I can say from experience they have worked flawlessly in every Mitsubishi application I've installed them in, though. And, I've done bearings on a few different Mitsubishi cars over the years, my Galant being the most recent. I've never had a wheel bearing failure after replacing one, and I've used a few different brands, to include Timken. I quickly did a Google search for DSMs that had issues with Timken bearings, just to see if maybe I'm just lucky. Didn't see much in the way of search results.

The only experience I have with Timken bearings outside of DSMs was when I was a field service tech for Raymond. At the time, all of our lift trucks used Timken bearings for load wheels, as well as for the rollers on the fork carriages. Again, I never saw a bearing failure that was due to a defective bearing. I saw tons of failures due to improper installation, improper maintenance and overloading...but never because the bearing was bad out of the box. That's just my personal experience, though.

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89Patches
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192970 posted 11/02/14 11:11 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have used cheap NAPA wheel bearings in my car before and I lap/autox my car on a regular basis. They lasted as long as my current OE replacements Honestly I think that 90% of wheel bearings fail do to improper torque of the axle nuts. Most people just tighten them by hand (or impact) and think that's good or they over torque...

I torque the axle nuts to 155ft/lbs and all wheel bearings last the around the same time with me, Be it cheap to OE.

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turbowop
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1192981 posted 11/02/14 12:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've never seen the castle nut slots line up with the hole in the axles for the cotter pins at the perfect torque setting. I just go as tight as I can with a breaker bar to line that stuff up.

I have Timkens in the front of my car. Not because I'm cheap, but because that's all that was available locally and I didn't feel like waiting a week+ to wait for OE bearings. So far so good.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1193039 posted 11/03/14 09:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Aftermarket parts do use the same materials. What makes the difference is the specifications used. Some companies use more precise specs than others. That's the difference. Along with that is the type and quality grease used.

By the way, those comebacks are from various makes and models. I've done 100's of bearings in the last decade. Never said they were junk, or inferior. Said I have had issues with Timken. Percentage wise, it's not a large number, yet it's enough that as a professional, I don't recommend them. Mostly to cover my butt, but also to give a better repair to my customers.

Again, I love how people will buy the cheapest tie rods, bearings, etc yet spend huge money on turbos, injectors, and such. Not pointing fingers, but just saying.

Oh, and I'm not the only pro that thinks that way. So no, my install and abilities are just fine.



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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1193075 posted 11/03/14 07:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I bet if I mic'd out both bearings, they would be built to exactly the same specifications. If you want, I'll pull out my micrometer and do that for you, Ryan. I don't think the specifications would differ at all, and I simply don't agree with what you're saying. As far as the grease goes, you can repack the bearing with whatever you want. You don't have to rely on the grease that comes in the bearing, and I make it a point to change it out with a good synthetic on every wheel bearing I do. If you use a synthetic, name brand, extreme pressure, high temp grease...you'll be fine. That's what I use when I pack wheel bearings, and have never seen grease cause a failure. If you have been installing the bearing right out of the box, that may account for some of your comebacks, IMO.

In regard to installing the bearing, I wasn't trying to say you don't know what you're doing. I simply meant that I'd examine external factors before blaming the bearing itself, as a 50% failure rate for any one part (especially a wheel bearing) is pretty rare.

As far as cheaping out on maintenance items while simultaneously blowing your load on performance items, I totally agree that's not good practice. I'm not sure who (if anyone) that's referring to specifically, but I don't recommend things to people that I wouldn't/haven't done myself. If you can afford to buy every possible part at the dealer and that gives give you piece of mind, then by all means, do it. For everyone else, there are places to cut costs without sacrificing safety, longevity and performance. Sure, I would recommend OEM parts in some cases, but not always. If there's something that works just as good and is half the price, I'll pick that option almost every time.

If someone considers that cutting corners, then so be it. I consider that being smart with my budget and build. To each his own.

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