This is this just a hardware store cable tensioner.

Found this site that just sells parts like this.

I know the jay racing Relocation kit uses a tentioner like this. Are any of you using it for the stock location like the picture? This is the tightest spot in my engine bay. Any added space or ease of adjustability will be very valuable in this area.

Stopped at the hardware store and this is what I came up with. for $4 Not quite up to the tassk, but i wanted to test fit it befor ordering stuff online.

This is a good idea! Im doing this.

Looks good, although I wonder how much easier it is over the stock setup. I can adjust tension on the stock setup just fine.

Slender Man has been exposed.

I didn't mesure anything before I went to the store. I thought the water pump/ alt tentioner bolt was much smaller than it actually is. I'll try again later with the measurements written down this time. Also from the look of it this might be pretty tough to adjust with the power steering in place too.

I did something like this when I did my Saturn swap. Worked pretty well, but I think I was losing tension after a while. Plus it was a pain to get to the rear jamb nut with P/S still in place. I ended up building a custom arm using parts of a stock setup, and now my alternator hasn't moved in years.

Fernco coupler.

This entire thread has been invalidated.

SMH. FML. WTF. GTFOWTFDIAFBBQ.

that is way,WAY too small.

Allow me to elaborate.

The idea is a good one. It just seems to be poorly executed in the photos shown. First of all, it's a mix of steel and aluminum. No big deal. However, the threaded portion appears to be 1/4". I wouldn't trust that thing to hold tension, as well as up to 9k rpm and all the vibration in that area, especially considering that belt runs the WP, Alt. and PS by proxy. Believe it or not, that belt sees a lot of load and vibration. Even the JayRacing turnbuckle is built of larger than 1/4" stock. 3/8" would probably be acceptable. That seems to be close to what the Jayracing kit utilizes.

Additionally, OP is posting photos presumably from under the hood of their car, and one can clearly see a FERNCO (aka home depot) rubber (not silicone) coupler on the hotside IC pipe. Thus the OMGWTFGTFOWITHTHATSHITWTFDOYOUTHINKYOU'REDOING portion of my previous post.

I don't mean to hurt anybody's feel-bads.. but Damn.

How is this even a good idea? For starters, as the others have said, the hardware pictured is way to dinky to do the job safely. Unless you are running something than a stock alternator, this mod seems pretty pointless IMO. The factory tensioner works great, and would be way less of a hassle to adjust. What's the benefit here? Weight savings? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

I found that picture and shared it with the community... Yes it looks like the whole car is modified from home depot but it is proof of concept. I considered this a better solution because of how tight everything is in here

I would like to put something together like this:

this one from jegs might work out of the box. but they dont give hole diamater

Funny, on my former Datsun race car I installed a spare Mitsu type adjuster to provide better adjustability and hold the tension better.

Whew. Thank goodness. I thought that was your bay, Tektic.

This other one you've posted looks like a far better piece. I do believe that would work well, provided it's the proper length. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

One thing to consider, though. The factory "arm" has a curve to it. Obvz this is because as the distance between the two points gets larger, the rod moves lower. At some point you may run into an issue of not being able to adjust out far enough.

I just installed a 94 Camaro alternator in my Colt yesterday, and had to make a custom bracket to link the alternator to the stock tensioner. I think this would have been a great alternative if there was room to remove that bolt behind the water pump pulley.