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Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000


strokin4dr
fighting them with a large needle
1280/2000
1135/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228558 posted 05/24/16 10:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I wouldn't call it bad luck. Just motivation for a much needed refresh on that old driveshaft.

I'm sure it will be riding smooth after this fix!



Ryan C.
1908- sold and missed.
1280- 2.3, FP 35R, E85, etc.
1135- 100% stock - 88k miles
'93 Mirage hatch- 4g63, AWD, etc (hoarding for build)

Posts: 2681 | From: Savannah, GA | Member Since: 08/30/05 | IP: (73.21.58.201) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228559 posted 05/24/16 10:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Yohler:

You planning to rebuild the whole thing or just repair that U joint?




Neither




Quoting strokin4dr:

I wouldn't call it bad luck. Just motivation for a much needed refresh on that old driveshaft.

I'm sure it will be riding smooth after this fix!




Yeah, I can't really be mad. After dozens of passes at the track, I'm surprised the old U joint lasted that long. I'm just glad I found the problem. I buttoned the car up late last night, but didn't go for a drive until today. I jump in today and went for a quick spin, and the noise was worse. I was thinking the rear end may need to come back out, or worse, the trans. I was relieved to find the U joint trashed, but also a bit horrified. That thing was hanging on by a thread.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (05/24/16 10:41 PM)

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strokin4dr
fighting them with a large needle
1280/2000
1135/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228560 posted 05/24/16 10:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ballin!!



Ryan C.
1908- sold and missed.
1280- 2.3, FP 35R, E85, etc.
1135- 100% stock - 88k miles
'93 Mirage hatch- 4g63, AWD, etc (hoarding for build)

Posts: 2681 | From: Savannah, GA | Member Since: 08/30/05 | IP: (73.21.58.201) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228645 posted 05/28/16 09:29 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I started looking at my options to repair my driveshaft, and came to the conclusion an OEM rebuild just isn't worth the time and effort to me. After pricing out what it would cost to do the rebuild, I decided to go with a DSS aluminum unit. For a little under $300 bucks extra, I could not only upgrade to the DSS shaft, but more importantly, eliminate over half of the work it takes to do rebuild the OEM shaft. The extra work the OEM R&R requires was honestly the biggest influencing factor in upgrading. I still had to rebuild the back half of the OEM shaft, and after doing so, I'm so fucking glad I decided no to rebuild the whole thing. It's a a super time consuming and labor intensive task.

Here's the pricing breakdown:

DSS upgrade=
DSS 3.5" HD Aluminum driveshaft for the Galant VR-4: $767.48 shipped from ExtremePSI
1 transfer Case yoke kit (becuz 1 U-joint MR470072) and 1 carrier bearing (1G DSM/GVR4 MB505495): $142.31 shipped from JNZtuning

Total: 909.79 (actual price paid, shipping included)


OEM rebuild=
Driveshaft rebuild kit (1G DSM/Galant VR4): $382.48
OEM lobro joint kit-DSM & Galant VR-4 (becuz the boot kit alone is basically NLA MB837300) $245.99

Total: 628.47 (Shipping/tax/whatever NOT included)

So, as I said, it was only going to cost me a little under $300 to upgrade. Now, if your lobro joint and boot is in good shape, you can save another $250 bucks, at which point an OEM rebuild is looking more financially beneficial. However, if you're like me and just need a new boot, you're fucked, since the boot kits alone are NLA. So, you're either going to have to be fine with the the lobro throwing grease everywhere and getting trashed in the process from contamination, or you're buying a new lobro joint...That $900 bucks sounding better yet, or naw?

Moving on to the time factor; any way you cut it, an OEM rebuild sucks balls. It took me approximately 2 hours to completely clean and rebuild the rear shaft alone. I also have a press, air tools, and everything required to make the job go quickly. That's for 1 U-joint and 1 carrier. I'd say you're looking at nearly triple that time for the entire shaft, assuming you have a nicely equipped garage.

With the DSS, you rebuild the rear shaft, bolt it in the car, then bolt the DSS shaft to the rear shaft via DSS's adapter plate. Done. The only other thing I'll mention here is the DSS shaft is 3.5" in diameter. If you have aftermarket exhaust on your Galant and it's anywhere near the factory driveshaft, you're going to run into clearance issues. I'm running the 3" CM performance exhaust system, and I slightly clearanced my cat and the down/mid pipe flange. If you're running a home brew system the snakes close to the OEM shaft, I'd highly recommend you taking some measurements prior to buying the DSS shaft.



Anyways, here are some pics of the new DS and the other stuff required to do the conversion:








Here's the OEM shaft compared to the DSS aluminum unit. The rear 3rd OEM shaft is reused:








Now that you've got the stock shaft out, you need to separate the new U-joint from the T-case yolk. Rinse and repeat x2 if you're rebuilding the OEM shaft.





Once you've got all your parts together, it's just a matter of cleaning and reassembly. The one thing I'll mention with this is the U-joint snap rings. It can be a pain to get 2 snap rings of the proper thickness to seat. You obviously don't want the U-joint super tight, nor do you want it all limp dick. Finding a happy medium with the limited amount of snap rings you're provided can be a challenge, and the trial and error associated with this is probably the most time consuming part of the job. Jafro has an awesome video series on this whole process, and I'd highly recommend watching it if this is your first time screwing with the DS: DSM Drivetrain & Clutch Tech by Jafro

2 hours later, here's what you get:






So, how does the new driveshaft feel and perform you ask?!?

Couldn't fucking tell ya.

The driveshaft was drop shipped from DSS, and they sent me the wrong god damn adapter plate. So, all the parts I had expedited to finish the job THIS WEEKEND was just time, money, and effort wasted. Although, I hear it's pretty common for DSS to screw things like this up, so whateves. Hell, another week JSB status is small time shit anyways. Nobody buys a VR-4 because they actually want to drive it

I'll update the thread when (or if) I ever get the right adapter plate.

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bazeng
pondering trannies


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228652 posted 05/28/16 03:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What's wrong with that plate?
Slightly off?

I got mine with it as a separate item.



Australia's Slowest VR4

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228654 posted 05/28/16 03:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The adapter plate bolt holes do not line up with the bolt holes on the pinion flange for the third section of the factory driveshaft closest to differential. I looked on DSS's website, and the adapter I received is clearly different from the one pictured for the Galant/DSM.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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faqinshiet
Member +


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228655 posted 05/28/16 04:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Awesome I will have to look into this. I want to get a dss shaft one of these days. Will be watching closely!



90 GGSX-VR4 clone

Posts: 457 | From: Arlington, Va | Member Since: 12/06/11 | IP: (68.8.164.10) | Report this post to a Moderator

brisvr4
Oceania Distict Enforcer for the Galant VR4 Mafia


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228658 posted 05/28/16 09:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting GSTwithPSI:

The adapter plate bolt holes do not line up with the bolt holes on the pinion flange for the third section of the factory driveshaft closest to differential. I looked on DSS's website, and the adapter I received is clearly different from the one pictured for the Galant/DSM.




What is the part number stamped on your adaptor Brett.
I have the same driveshaft kit and mine is stamped MIPL1 same as listed on their site.
I haven't pulled the rear section of the stock one yet but I'm hoping mine is correct!




Tim
1992 Auspec
11.37 @ 131.46 - E85 goodness and stock block!
Official Australian home of the Ugh decal!

Posts: 934 | From: brisbane australia | Member Since: 02/13/04 | IP: (60.231.1.69) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228659 posted 05/28/16 11:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Funny you should ask, there isn't one on mine. However, in the pictures on DSS's website, the part # you're stating is the one pictured on the adapter they list for the DSM.

Here's the one they sent me:



And here's the one on their website listed for the DSM. Notice the completely different bolt pattern to flange design, and also the part number that's present, yet not present on mine: click

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brisvr4
Oceania Distict Enforcer for the Galant VR4 Mafia


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228661 posted 05/28/16 11:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks like I got lucky!





Tim
1992 Auspec
11.37 @ 131.46 - E85 goodness and stock block!
Official Australian home of the Ugh decal!

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229015 posted 06/09/16 11:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
First, big thanks to Tim for helping me get things sorted. I had some issues getting the correct adapter from DSS, who sent the wrong one initially. For this specific transaction, I wasn't terribly satisfied with the customer service I received from either DSS or from ExtremePSI, who I originally placed the order with. But, I got the right parts eventually, which I guess is what matters in the end. If any of you guys are ordering a DSS driveshaft in the future, shoot me a PM prior and I'll make sure you get the correct info for the correct parts from the jump. Here's the adapter I was initially sent. Looks like a good fit, right?





Anyways, after I got the right adapter plate, installation was a breeze. DSS truly makes a nice product:










The DSS driveshaft performs just as you would expect. It's velvety smooth, zero vibration, and feels great overall. Honestly, I've noticed very little difference between this and the stock driveshaft. But, I haven't launched the car yet on the aluminum driveshaft yet, where I expect I'll actually feel the most difference.

There are definitely some downsides to the DSS piece. For starters, it's 3.5" in diameter, which means it will hit shit that your stock driveshaft didn't even come close to. For me, that meant trimming back some heat shielding and exhaust bits.

Secondly, and probably the most annoying, the DSS driveshaft is a 5+ foot long piece of hollow aluminum tubing...Which apparently means every tiny little noise your driveline made prior to installing this thing will be amplified a million times over. I had a slight tapping noise on decel only at low speed, and spent nearly 2 days trying to figure out what the hell it was. From inside the car, I swore it was the rear end. I ended up tracking it down to the trans itself, which seems to be a bit noisy on decel. I just never noticed it on the stock driveshaft. At first I was a bit worried, but after getting the car up on a lift, and inspecting the driveline while running it at speed in gear, there's absolutely no issues or vibrations. All the joints are tight, and the driveline is functioning as it should, but the audible harmonics amplified by the DSS driveshaft are very pronounced. Bottom line, expect a bit of noise unless your driveline is minty fresh.



After I got the car back together, the wifey and I took it to go grab a beer and a bite at this new place in the Island. Good stuff!

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faqinshiet
Member +


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229025 posted 06/10/16 10:17 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks great! ill send you a pm! Any idea of the weight difference?



90 GGSX-VR4 clone

Posts: 457 | From: Arlington, Va | Member Since: 12/06/11 | IP: (75.80.147.91) | Report this post to a Moderator

Yohler
Junior Member
161/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229032 posted 06/10/16 12:39 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

This is our 3.5" aluminum drive shaft for the Galant VR-4. This shaft is designed to replace the first 2 shafts of the factory 3-piece system. They are made from 6061-T6 aluminum and 3.5" in diameter, it also includes a custom 7075-T6 aluminum plate to convert the CV back to a u-joint style end and bolt to the factory rear shaft section. The first 2 pieces of the stock shaft is 22lbs and our single is only 12lbs.




Looks good, exactly how much trimming did you have to do? I'd pretty much written off going this route and rebuilding mine since the carrier bearings are less than stellar, but after seeing your price breakdown it's fairly hard to argue against going this route.

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229043 posted 06/10/16 07:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'll try and take some pictures. Basically I had to trim back the flanges where the midpipe/cat meet, and also the factory heat shielding on the underbelly of the car.

Posts: 3282 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (24.145.93.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229730 posted 06/26/16 09:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Not a terribly exciting update, but the more I wrench on this car, the more I realize it's the little things that bring the build full circle, and really set the car apart.

I picked up a new set of door decals from a seller on Ebay: click

His ad said he used 3M material, which I wanted. The decals were really high quality, and the color I picked looks absolutely amazing on the car. He even shipped a squeegee with the decals which was awesome. The only complaint I have was the decals were mirror images of one another, and that's not how they appear on the car from the factory. To fix this, you have to cut one of the decals, and place the "Intercooler Turbo" in front of the rest of the decal. I just copied the spacing from the correct decal, and used a small piece of tape to make everything line up. In the end, it turned out awesome:






Old stuff removed:





New stuff installed. I opted not to install the 4WS portion of the decal, since I deleted it from this car.






820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (06/26/16 09:32 PM)

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fuel
"Just to be pedantic!"


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229737 posted 06/26/16 11:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It seems the eBay seller used images of my car (without permission). Anyway, how the words appear on the eBay decals are identical to how they appear on my JDM car which had new decals from Mitsubishi Japan. So the seller has them in the correct order as per original JDM car.



'91 E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | '80 A164A Eterna GSR Turbo

-- Visit my JDM Galant VR-4 info & specifications site here! --

Posts: 2033 | From: Toronto, ON, Canada | Member Since: 02/23/09 | IP: (210.10.209.178) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229752 posted 06/27/16 07:22 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Actually, Phil, now that you point that out, I think that's how the decals look on ALL Galants. I think the PO of 1837 just reversed it, which I just assumed was correct. All of the pictures I can find (USDM and JDM) show the decals pictured as you're describing.

So much for going out of my way to swap stuff all around to match the factory



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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fuel
"Just to be pedantic!"


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229770 posted 06/27/16 07:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
oh well - still looks fantastic! The gold is somehow both bold and subtle.



'91 E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | '80 A164A Eterna GSR Turbo

-- Visit my JDM Galant VR-4 info & specifications site here! --

Posts: 2033 | From: Toronto, ON, Canada | Member Since: 02/23/09 | IP: (210.10.209.178) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229773 posted 06/27/16 07:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I had been thinking about doing the decals in gold as well to match my wheels. You beat me to it.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229778 posted 06/27/16 09:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting fuel:

oh well - still looks fantastic! The gold is somehow both bold and subtle.



Thanks, Paul. BTW, your car is doing a great job selling these


Quoting turbowop :

I had been thinking about doing the decals in gold as well to match my wheels. You beat me to it.



You still should. Just put them on correctly for a completely different look!



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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fuel
"Just to be pedantic!"


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229781 posted 06/27/16 09:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      



'91 E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | '80 A164A Eterna GSR Turbo

-- Visit my JDM Galant VR-4 info & specifications site here! --

Posts: 2033 | From: Toronto, ON, Canada | Member Since: 02/23/09 | IP: (210.10.209.178) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229782 posted 06/27/16 09:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      


Fuck, sorry dude (Phil). I always get you and Paul mixed up (Cheekychimp).



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229953 posted 07/02/16 08:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't really get the little line to show up on camera. You can just barely see it right at the 85% mark if you look really close.

I'm looking forward to testing the fuel at a few different stations, and also seeing how the winter blends in my area vary. For now, I'm glad I got decent juice in the tank!





The car has been running great. Just passed 1,000 miles on the motor. Next up, cams and making the swap to SD.

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Yohler
Junior Member
161/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229965 posted 07/03/16 12:14 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Have you considered getting a flex fuel sensor and running it through ECMlink so you can log it on the fly?

Posts: 70 | From: New Lenox, IL | Member Since: 02/26/16 | IP: (107.77.87.121) | Report this post to a Moderator

transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1229967 posted 07/03/16 07:48 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
just went through all the new post on all 3 cars and im jealous of all 3.



138/2000 - BG - Dorothy

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