I started looking at my options to repair my driveshaft, and came to the conclusion an OEM rebuild just isn't worth the time and effort to me. After pricing out what it would cost to do the rebuild, I decided to go with a DSS aluminum unit. For a little under $300 bucks extra, I could not only upgrade to the DSS shaft, but more importantly, eliminate over half of the work it takes to do rebuild the OEM shaft. The extra work the OEM R&R requires was honestly the biggest influencing factor in upgrading. I still had to rebuild the back half of the OEM shaft, and after doing so, I'm so fucking glad I decided no to rebuild the whole thing. It's a a super time consuming and labor intensive task.
Here's the pricing breakdown:
DSS 3.5" HD Aluminum driveshaft for the Galant VR-4: $767.48 shipped from ExtremePSI
1 transfer Case yoke kit (becuz 1 U-joint MR470072) and 1 carrier bearing (1G DSM/GVR4 MB505495): $142.31 shipped from JNZtuning
Total: 909.79 (actual price paid, shipping included)
Driveshaft rebuild kit (1G DSM/Galant VR4): $382.48
OEM lobro joint kit-DSM & Galant VR-4 (becuz the boot kit alone is basically NLA MB837300) $245.99
Total: 628.47 (Shipping/tax/whatever NOT included)
So, as I said, it was only going to cost me a little under $300 to upgrade. Now, if your lobro joint and boot is in good shape, you can save another $250 bucks, at which point an OEM rebuild is looking more financially beneficial. However, if you're like me and just need a new boot, you're fucked, since the boot kits alone are NLA. So, you're either going to have to be fine with the the lobro throwing grease everywhere and getting trashed in the process from contamination, or you're buying a new lobro joint...That $900 bucks sounding better yet, or naw?
Moving on to the time factor; any way you cut it, an OEM rebuild sucks balls. It took me approximately 2 hours to completely clean and rebuild the rear shaft alone. I also have a press, air tools, and everything required to make the job go quickly. That's for 1 U-joint and 1 carrier. I'd say you're looking at nearly triple that time for the entire shaft, assuming you have a nicely equipped garage.
With the DSS, you rebuild the rear shaft, bolt it in the car, then bolt the DSS shaft to the rear shaft via DSS's adapter plate. Done. The only other thing I'll mention here is the DSS shaft is 3.5" in diameter. If you have aftermarket exhaust on your Galant and it's anywhere near the factory driveshaft, you're going to run into clearance issues. I'm running the 3" CM performance exhaust system, and I slightly clearanced my cat and the down/mid pipe flange. If you're running a home brew system the snakes close to the OEM shaft, I'd highly recommend you taking some measurements prior to buying the DSS shaft.
Anyways, here are some pics of the new DS and the other stuff required to do the conversion:
Here's the OEM shaft compared to the DSS aluminum unit. The rear 3rd OEM shaft is reused:
Now that you've got the stock shaft out, you need to separate the new U-joint from the T-case yolk. Rinse and repeat x2 if you're rebuilding the OEM shaft.
Once you've got all your parts together, it's just a matter of cleaning and reassembly. The one thing I'll mention with this is the U-joint snap rings. It can be a pain to get 2 snap rings of the proper thickness to seat. You obviously don't want the U-joint super tight, nor do you want it all limp dick. Finding a happy medium with the limited amount of snap rings you're provided can be a challenge, and the trial and error associated with this is probably the most time consuming part of the job. Jafro has an awesome video series on this whole process, and I'd highly recommend watching it if this is your first time screwing with the DS: DSM Drivetrain & Clutch Tech by Jafro
2 hours later, here's what you get:
So, how does the new driveshaft feel and perform you ask?!?
Couldn't fucking tell ya.
The driveshaft was drop shipped from DSS, and they sent me the wrong god damn adapter plate. So, all the parts I had expedited to finish the job THIS WEEKEND was just time, money, and effort wasted. Although, I hear it's pretty common for DSS to screw things like this up, so whateves. Hell, another week JSB status is small time shit anyways. Nobody buys a VR-4 because they actually want to drive it
I'll update the thread when (or if) I ever get the right adapter plate.