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Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000


turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226766 posted 04/14/16 12:46 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I also hate my welded center diff. But since I don't daily the car, it doesn't bother me enough to have it swapped out with a 4-spider.

As for the 272s, it must just be the great PNW.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051


Edited by turbowop (04/14/16 12:47 AM)

Posts: 11849 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (71.83.231.158) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226851 posted 04/16/16 07:59 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Drove the turd to work Thursday and Friday just to get some miles on the new setup. Put on some highway miles and plenty of stop and go; the car didn't seem to mind either. Not a single squeak or leak so far. I'm at ~200 miles on the build now.

I think I'm in the clear, so stopped and filled up with E85. Hoping to have the car off of wastegate pressure and dialed in this weekend.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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Yohler
Junior Member
161/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226859 posted 04/16/16 10:58 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looking good. You ever find the cause of the valves meeting their maker?

Posts: 70 | From: New Lenox, IL | Member Since: 02/26/16 | IP: (2601:248:4001:72) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226890 posted 04/17/16 04:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
No, I didn't.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227807 posted 05/07/16 09:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I just finished some updates to the car to support the new turbo on E85. I started with the fuel system. I upgraded to FIC 1150's, fresh from FIC all cleaned and flow tested.






Then, I replaced the Walbro 255 with an Aeromotive 340 E85 stealth pump. I was pretty happy to see my home grown terminals on the pump hanger holding up great! There was no corrosion in the fuel tank, fuel rail, or the lines. Also, the FIC 1050's I pulled out of the car were super clean. No black goo whatsoever.







I've been experiencing a tiny bit of ignition breakup at redline on the new turbo. I figured my tired junkyard coils and old COP setup could use updating. So, I ordered all new stuff. Apparently there are some guys running iridium plugs on high boost cars with great results, so per their suggestions, I figured I'd give them a try. I think the last time I used iridium plugs was like 2007, and have sworn by the copper cores ever since. Results TBD...







I got everything all wired up and slapped the new COP setup on the car. I also installed some new reservoir caps to go with all the bling.








I wanted to take the car out for a good test beat, but I found out today my alternator is taking a dump. So, I'll get one on order and hopefully get to see how all this new shit works in the next week or so. Also decided to make the jump to SD, just not sure when...



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (05/07/16 09:40 PM)

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badams
Bungie Battery
50/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227810 posted 05/07/16 10:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
what a rust bucket.....



-Blake

Posts: 118 | From: KC, MO | Member Since: 06/16/14 | IP: (2602:306:c5f7:e2) | Report this post to a Moderator

CheapTalon
Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227811 posted 05/07/16 10:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
This car needs a Magnus fuel rail like yesterday. All that pretty stuff and then the doo-doo stock rail.



1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo

Posts: 117 | From: Grand Rapids, MI | Member Since: 05/17/06 | IP: (68.51.249.43) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227812 posted 05/07/16 11:52 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^ Buy one for me and I'll run it.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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badams
Bungie Battery
50/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227813 posted 05/08/16 12:06 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
doo doo stick



-Blake

Posts: 118 | From: KC, MO | Member Since: 06/16/14 | IP: (2602:306:c5f7:e2) | Report this post to a Moderator

bradrs
Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227820 posted 05/08/16 12:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Iridiums can help. But

Are you running the COP directly from the PTU? Or do you have a CD ignition somewhere?

Posts: 115 | From: Alta Loma, CA | Member Since: 02/01/14 | IP: (173.254.196.59) | Report this post to a Moderator

BENE38A
Slanging Kiwi parts


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227822 posted 05/08/16 03:05 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That car is so tidy! Great job



1991 Mitsubishi Galant vr4 RS

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227827 posted 05/08/16 07:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting bradrs:

Iridiums can help. But

Are you running the COP directly from the PTU? Or do you have a CD ignition somewhere?




Hey, Brad. No CDI.

I actually swapped back to a stock coil and wires to try and fix the issue, but the car ran better on the COP. If this doesn't fix the problem, I'll pick up an ARC2.

BTW, which model do you recommend for these cars?



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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faqinshiet
Member +


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227831 posted 05/08/16 09:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Nice parts! I actually got the same fuel pump couple weeks ago! Hey Brett how is the turbosmart bov?



90 GGSX-VR4 clone

Posts: 457 | From: Arlington, Va | Member Since: 12/06/11 | IP: (2605:e000:1c0e:b) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227834 posted 05/08/16 10:47 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So far, I'm not terribly fond of the turbosmart BOV as it's currently configured. It's too hard for part throttle driving. If you're giving the car mild on/off throttle inputs just right, the car wants to hesitate a bit because the BOV want's to be either all open or all closed. Otherwise, it's completely fine. It definitely holds large amounts of boost without an issue.

I'm going to get a softer spring, and see if it improves part throttle response. There are 3 springs available :

Blue: Vacum High -13InHg, Vacum Low -3 In Hg
Green: Vacum High -19InHg, Vacum Low -9In Hg
Pink: Vacum High -24InHg, Vacum Low -14In Hg

The Kompact Series BOVs come shipped with the "green" spring, which is supposed to be middle of the road according to the information above. I'm going the order the softer "blue" spring and see if that works any better.

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faqinshiet
Member +


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227843 posted 05/08/16 02:39 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Awesome thanks for the info! I will probably end up getting one!



90 GGSX-VR4 clone

Posts: 457 | From: Arlington, Va | Member Since: 12/06/11 | IP: (165.157.121.80) | Report this post to a Moderator

bradrs
Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1227854 posted 05/08/16 07:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting GSTwithPSI:


Hey, Brad. No CDI.

I actually swapped back to a stock coil and wires to try and fix the issue, but the car ran better on the COP. If this doesn't fix the problem, I'll pick up an ARC2.

BTW, which model do you recommend for these cars?




On the bench, with all good stock parts, the stock stuff really seems to work better than COP. That doesn't always translate to the same results on a car. Plug wires, plugs, or coils can all cause the stock parts to perform worse. Some people say the stock stuff works better than COP, others say the COP is better. But it is a small improvement either way. To get a LOT more out of the ignition, you'd need to replace the PTU and coils, go to some custom smart coil, or use a CDI.

As for which model ARC-2 for these, I am not 100% sure. For any later model eclipse, the plug n play is designed to simplify the install. The tach adapter built in helps to fool the PTU and ECU into thinking everything is working like stock. It's a no brainer.

I think looking at the 90 eclipse, it didn't matter since it uses a different connector, and the tach adapter didn't help. That would be the determining factor. I think the Galant has a PTU like the 91-99 eclipse, right? The tach adapter works to trick the 91-99 PTU into putting out the right tach signal.

Posts: 115 | From: Alta Loma, CA | Member Since: 02/01/14 | IP: (70.209.198.178) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228104 posted 05/13/16 09:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I got the new alternator installed today. I decided to go with the 90 amp (AL4008X) Bosch unit since my old Autozone unit was shitting out. Once I got it in the car, I noticed my voltages were much more stable than before. They stay right around 14V all the way to redline.







After I was confident the car was charging properly, I went out and did a few pulls to dial it in a bit better. Between the new alternator, and working with the tune a bit, the car doesn't seem to be breaking up anymore. It's on about 25 pounds of boost currently, and feels really strong. I think tomorrow I'll pull the plugs and close the gaps up a bit, and then try and get to 30 psi. I also need to work on the spool up tuning some, but overall I'm happy with how it's running.



Full 3rd gear pull log

Posts: 3277 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (24.145.93.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228137 posted 05/14/16 05:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Rolled 600 or so miles on the new build, so figured it was time to do another oil change and see how healthy the motor is. I drained the oil into a clean pan, and it looked good. So, then I pulled the filter and sliced it open for an inspection. The filter looked great, metal free and super clean.





I also did a compression test, and was extremely pleased with the results. 175-180 psi across the board on a cold motor.








I regaped the plugs to .018 and put the car back together. It runs GREAT. With the car in good shape mechanically, it was time to scrub off all the bugs I slaughtered doing 3rd gear tuning pulls.




All clean









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mbohling
Newbie
1192/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228141 posted 05/14/16 08:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Great looking car! Keep up the good work



1992 Kensington 569/1000 - Sold
2004 Audi S4 - Sold
1998 Toyota Camry - DD
1991 Belize Green 1192/2000 - at the surgeon

Looking for another gvr4

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FlyingEagle
Doesn't Match Anything


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228146 posted 05/15/16 08:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So, when do some of the screen shots become cover material at the entrance screen to the ORG? wink wink

Damn !!!



C53A 1 of the ~1500

Posts: 1506 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (99.241.192.58) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228455 posted 05/22/16 06:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I swapped a 4 bolt LSD into the 4WS pumpkin last year, and all was good. In the last few weeks though, I've noticed some noise coming from the rear diff. It was strange, because it only happened when I was taking off from a stop at super low RPM after when the diff gets warm. If the car was cold, it wouldn't do it. So, instead of fucking with the ring and pinion, I just decided to swap in another 4 bolt. In addition, I came to the realization that I hate how the 4WS makes the car feel so unsettled in a high speed sweeper, so I figured now was the time to delete all that crap.

I'll start out by saying I was on a tight timeline to get this done. I've got too many projects, and not enough time and space to tend to them all. I would have liked to weld the trailing arms and install new subframe bushings, but I just didn't have the luxury of waiting around on parts for this particular project. Not to mention, I would have also liked to completely delete all the 4WS crap, but again, didn't have the time to pull the car apart and remove all the bits. I'd chalk this up as a sudo-4WS delete for lazy/busy people.

There is one main concern when deleting the 4WS (if you ask me anyways), which is deciding what to do with the high pressure output lines that run to the rear rack. I found the easiest solution was to just plug the lines right where they dip down from the rack under the car. I came up with a quick and easy solution for this, which basically entailed hacking off the end of the hydraulic line, and converting the fitting into a plug. I was unable to find a legit plug anywhere, so as far as I know, this is your only option.



Here's the feed lines where they dip down below the car. Take the soft hydraulic lines loose, and remove them from the car. Have a pan handy, because these are going to piss power steering fluid everywhere...A lot of PS fluid.




Once the line is off the car, hack off the end with a grinding wheel. Once you do, you should have a steel fitting that's ready to weld. Take a welder and just tack the center closed. Once it's welded closed, you've now got a nice little plug to cap the PS lines off with.










After the lines were capped off, I dropped the rear subframe, and removed all the other 4WS crap. I left the return lines in place, since they snake all the way up under the hood, and deleting them completely would be a major ass pain. I just used a small piece of hose and loop them together at the rear of the car.






Now, the crappy part. CLEAN EVERYTHING. I used a wire wheel, Simple Green, and tons of elbow grease. The subframe got cleaned and rust proofed. The underbody got cleaned as well, then got Rust Bullet, then rubberized undercoating. The Rust Bullet really wasn't required since there wasn't any actual rust to treat, but I've found it to be super durable, and prefer it for coating parts under the chassis.











After everything was dry, I bolted in the subframe.






Lastly, removed all the 4WS decals so I wouldn't be a poser.






I still have a few things left to button up. I need to install the axles, brakes, exhaust and suspension. I got tired of crawling around on the ground like some kind of retarded fat snake though, so it will have to wait until next week.

Time for a beer!

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turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228457 posted 05/22/16 07:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
When I did basically all that same work, I also removed the 4WS sticker on the back window. I wish I hadn't now, as it was a cool aspect of the car, even having removed the functionality. Oh well.

Looks good.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

Posts: 11849 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (71.83.231.158) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228458 posted 05/22/16 07:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If I would have known how much of a bitch it was going to be to remove the window decal, I would have left it be. I started chipping away at the corner, and realized that thing was really on there. But, by that time it was too late, and it all had to go.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3277 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228552 posted 05/24/16 09:52 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting GSTwithPSI:

I swapped a 4 bolt LSD into the 4WS pumpkin last year, and all was good. In the last few weeks though, I've noticed some noise coming from the rear diff. It was strange, because it only happened when I was taking off from a stop at super low RPM after when the diff gets warm. If the car was cold, it wouldn't do it. So, instead of fucking with the ring and pinion, I just decided to swap in another 4 bolt.







Yeah...Well turns out the rear end wasn't my problem after all.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (05/24/16 10:27 PM)

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Yohler
Junior Member
161/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1228553 posted 05/24/16 10:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Ouch. Some bad luck lately it seems. You planning to rebuild the whole thing or just repair that U joint?

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