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Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000


iceman69510
Turn Right Racing
855/2000
828/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1220121 posted 11/11/15 02:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting prove_it:

You missed the line about an aftermarket evo 8 core then. It's there.




Whoops. Distracted by the sausage and egg McMuffins I guess.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-Daily driver status
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

Posts: 10427 | From: Michigan | Member Since: 03/05/01 | IP: (205.144.100.200) | Report this post to a Moderator

G
obsessed with the turds of others
486/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1220132 posted 11/11/15 04:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks good, i'd definitely buy one of those j-pipes for my measly 16g. My outlet is ported though so i'd have to measure the id for a custom one. I'd also want mine to extend out more towards the support since I have an afco rad. As far away from exh mani as possible.



www.japanesenostalgiccar.com
www.nostalgic.co.jp


Edited by G (11/11/15 04:13 PM)

Posts: 8803 | From: zompton | Member Since: 02/24/04 | IP: (50.193.76.1) | Report this post to a Moderator

BENE38A
Slanging Kiwi parts


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1220170 posted 11/12/15 12:07 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
setup looks great



1991 Mitsubishi Galant vr4 RS

Posts: 261 | From: New Zealand | Member Since: 09/02/13 | IP: (115.69.185.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221034 posted 11/27/15 09:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Now that the car is making substantially more power on E85, I'm beginning to find some weak points. A launch at the track twisted off one of the 3 bolt axles in the rear diff.



Thanks to Anthony's awesome writeup, I was able to swap a 4 bold LSD into the 3 bolt diff housing. I wanted to get the car rolling around again before the winter, as there's a few more things I want to try and accomplish before I tear it down for the winter. I'm planing to drop the whole rear subframe this winter and recondition everything, as well as strip and undercoat the whole undercarriage. I'm still torn on whether or not to keep my 4WS, so for now, I just did a quick diff swap to get the car up and running again.

Started with new 4 bolt axle cups



4 bolt rear



3 bolt diff and 4 bolt LSD diff




4 bolt LSD assembled with bearings and 4WS drive gear



4 bolt LSD installed in the 3 bolt pumpkin



4 bolt axles



Done



Buttoned everything up and took it for a test drive. It seems like it drives pretty much like before. The car still bitches when I make tight turns, or reverse while turning. The only difference is now, it seems like the LSD makes a little noise, rather than the wheels chirping and hopping. It only happens at super low speed with the wheels cut hard, which leads me to believe it's just another symptom of doing shit to the car you're not supposed to; like welding the center diff. Took it for a drive on the highway and it's silent, as I'd expect. Overall, it was a pretty easy swap, and hopefully this keeps me from snapping axles in the future.

Posts: 3282 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (24.145.93.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

prove_it
my racist jokes aren't actually funny
715/1000
1284/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221051 posted 11/28/15 01:15 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
IIRC, in the mitsu service manual it does say not to weld up trans parts...


I'm surprised you didn't make the swap to an EVO rear diff.



#1284/2K NB, Totaled
#715/1K KG, Rebuilding
02 Acura TL daily duty unit

12yr+ Vr4 owner.
Honda/Acura master tech.
Family Guy

Posts: 4201 | From: Sioux Falls, SD | Member Since: 07/04/08 | IP: (96.2.247.26) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1222895 posted 01/14/16 10:40 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Got the new radiator in.



New SPAL "High Performance" 12" fan. This one is rated at 1600cfm, and has a more sturdy design. We'll see how it works out.





I used a combination of solid mounts and the push through ties to install the fans. Everything fits much better, and is much more secure.






First impressions: this setup moves a shit ton of air, but I won't get a real feel for how this performs until this summer. I can definitely tell it puts more of a load on the electrical system than previously, though. I think I may need to look into installing a high output alternator.

Posts: 3282 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (24.145.93.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

viktor4g37
Newbie


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1222912 posted 01/15/16 07:05 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Where is the filler cup of the radiator? and how to pour antifreeze now?

Posts: 9 | From: Chernivtsi, Ukraine | Member Since: 11/13/13 | IP: (65.49.68.190) | Report this post to a Moderator

iceman69510
Turn Right Racing
855/2000
828/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1222913 posted 01/15/16 08:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Viktor, you can see the filler cap on the thermostat housing right at the end of the valve cover (toward bottom of picture). This is the style used on Eclipse 1g.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-Daily driver status
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

Posts: 10427 | From: Michigan | Member Since: 03/05/01 | IP: (205.144.100.200) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1224294 posted 02/15/16 10:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I got the privilege of meeting Pot in person this past weekend. Hands down, one of the nicest and most knowledgeable Galant guys I've ever met. Pot came by my place with a large order of parts, and in typical Pot fashion, far exceeded my expectations.

We got to shoot the shit a bit over some beers, and even went out and gave 1837 a good flogging. Right as we left my house, I was complaining to Pot about how much of a piece of shit my trans was as I banged the car through a few gears. Apparently, the trans didn't like that. On the return trip home I slammed 3rd, then back to 4th, then nothing. The car is now forever stuck in 4th. I was pretty upset; not because the car was broken, but because I didn't even run Pot through a good launch! Maybe next time I guess.

The shifter arms are moving at the trans, but the gears ain't changing. My guess would be busted 3-4 shift rail or fork. I guess I should be grateful the trans busted during a test beat with a friend, not during one of the 50 passes I made at the track this past year. It's all about perspective, I suppose

Posts: 3282 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (24.145.93.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

89Patches
I <3 AMS


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226183 posted 03/31/16 10:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So what's new with the turd?

Posts: 718 | From: Ontario Canada | Member Since: 01/30/13 | IP: (174.35.243.172) | Report this post to a Moderator

badams
Bungie Battery
50/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226201 posted 04/01/16 09:17 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Jack stand ballin, like most others



-Blake

Posts: 118 | From: KC, MO | Member Since: 06/16/14 | IP: (107.77.87.111) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226250 posted 04/01/16 09:15 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting 89Patches:

So what's new with the turd?




Just working on some more maintenance stuff and another round of upgrades. Hopefully it's running by this weekend.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3282 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226382 posted 04/04/16 08:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I started modding/building 1837 back in February of 2014, well before I was ready. I found issues with the car what threw me into building way before I had ever planned to. As a result, the build was unbalanced, and lacked the quality and finish I always envisioned my car having. Since my time and money aren't as plentiful as I wish they were, I had to build as both allowed.

I've been stacking parts and making plans for 1837 well over a year now. The plan all along was to eventually throw the built motor back in the car once I put it together like I wanted. In addition, I wanted the build to be balanced and well rounded overall, and I told myself I wouldn't tear back into the car until I had a parts stack that would allow for that. I busted the trans (which was always a piece of shit) last February when Pot was here. Since the car needed a trans, I figured that was my queue to get my ass in gear and start turning my parts pile into something tangible. Below is about 3 months worth of documentation/work.




So, let's rip this bitch out





I started the motor build with:
6 bolt block punched out 20 over
Stock uncut crank
ARP head and main studs
Ross 2G 85.5mm 8.3:1 forged aluminum pistons
King XP tri-metal racing series main & rod Bearing Set
Eagle H-beam rods sized for a 22mm wrist pin









Verified my measured oil clearances with Plastigauge. They're set a tad on the loose side at .003" right where I wanted them. Also checked the crank end play, which ended up right at .005".








Then checked the ring end gap, ringed the pistons, hung the rods, installed new Spirolox and bearings, and banged them in the bores.








All new hardware for EVERYTHING. OEM BSE, OEM tensioner, Gates belts and pulleys, front case with straight cut gears, etc, etc.








I decided to go with a OEM composite head gasket this time. I also installed ARP head studs and new alignment dowels.









Piece of shit Magnus manifold started leaking again last season (second time since I've had it). So, I had a local shop re-weld the runners. We'll see where it starts leaking next...





Next, I installed the new 2G pickup tube.






Then, hot coated all the exhaust parts and bolted the new 68HTA setup together. After that, I installed new exhaust manifold studs and bolted on the turbo assembly.









So, I needed an oil pressure gauge, but ran out of places to put gauges while not cluttering up the interior. So, I just hacked up the cluster and put it in there. It turned out pretty good, IMO.









Rebuilt the throttle body.






Also spent 1,000 hours sanding my valve cover so the paint would look decent.





Motor done.










Motor dropped in.






New Fuel Lab filter setup.





New BOV bolted up to the badass short route piping Sal @ Street Side Motorsports made for me.








Final product.







Sooooo after all that, yesterday, I primed the motor, topped off the fluids and did a preliminary compression test. I got 150 psi on cylinders 4 and 3. In the process of testing number 2, the compression tester hose exploded. I guess that's a good sign. I finished the test with the little stopper insert, and got 150 psi across the board. I kicked on the fuel pump via ECMlink to check for leaks, and all good there as well. So, I cranked up the motor and it fired right up. The car ran great! I wanted to finish the breaking today, but it rained. Go figure. I'll update this again soon when the motor either blows up, or breaks in just fine. Least if it blows up, I'll know who fucked something up

The car isn't done, and I'm not sure it will ever be. But I'm happy with the current status of the build. As long as it end up running as good as it looks, I'll be satisfied for now. Additionally, I needed to get done with 1837 so I can shift my focus to 820 and 1546. Both of those builds need some serious work.

I'm in the process of updating the mod list in my showcase to reflect all the changes I've made to 1837. Questions, comments, feedback welcomed.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (04/04/16 09:15 PM)

Posts: 3282 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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marvinmadman
Senior Member
136/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226384 posted 04/04/16 08:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks awesome. Just missing a couple injectors



1982/2000 sold
1263/2000 parts
136/1000 work n progress
08 ZX14
10 Ford Flex TT/AWD
05 Galant GTS

Posts: 2348 | From: Lafayette, Louisiana | Member Since: 11/10/03 | IP: (2600:387:1:810::) | Report this post to a Moderator

transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226395 posted 04/04/16 10:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
my goodness, the car is amazing. love love love it dude



138/2000 - BG - Dorothy

Posts: 3393 | From: Klamath Falls, Or | Member Since: 07/27/11 | IP: (50.37.28.6) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226429 posted 04/05/16 08:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks for the positive feedback, guys.

The weather cleared up today, so I got to take the car out and finish the break in. I put about 20 miles on the motor, and it ran flawlessly. After the short drive, I brought it back home, checked for leaks and did an oil change.

The car is completely leak free, except for a tiny leak where the oil feed line meets the CHRA. I'll guess I'll have to give the fitting another 1/4 turn or so. Everything else is dry as a bone, which is nice.

The oil looked great, and I cut open the filter, which looked great as well. No metal or any other shit, just super clean.



Everything suggests the motor is in good health, so I guess it's ready for flogging now. We'll see how long it takes to break it.

The only other issue I noticed was the trans. I put in a new rebuilt trans, and the gears and synchros feel great. But shifting still feels notchy as fuck. And now, the car is being a bitch when I try to shift into 5th or reverse. At this point, I'm pretty confident the issue is with my shifter cables, or the shifter itself. I'll start by trying to make some adjustments to the cables, and check the shifter stops to see if they are interfering. If that doesn't work, I think I'll swap my JNZ short shifter out with a stock one just to see what happens.

I've read the manual on how to adjust the cables, and it's not terribly intuitive. It sounds like a guess and check kinda thing, which sucks balls. If any of you guys have figured out a way to adjust the cables and ended up with good results, let me know what you did.

Here's a short video of the car running: click



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (04/05/16 09:26 PM)

Posts: 3282 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
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turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226433 posted 04/05/16 11:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Garbage.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

Posts: 11850 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (71.83.231.158) | Report this post to a Moderator

transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226436 posted 04/05/16 11:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
when i swap a trans out i hook everything up except for the cable ends to the shifter linkage(lay them next to it, then i go into the car and set the shifter to left/right center and a smidgen back(only a hair), then go out to the engine bay and see how far off the ends of the cables are, adjust the shifter cables inside the car until the cable ends slide on and off the linkage without moving the shifter inside the car from its centered position. i can usually get it in the first try with a slight adjustment as needed once the cables are on the shifter linkage, i have to readjust because i have skateboard bearings on my shifter cable ends instead of bushings and sometime it slightly moves.



138/2000 - BG - Dorothy

Posts: 3393 | From: Klamath Falls, Or | Member Since: 07/27/11 | IP: (50.37.28.6) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226442 posted 04/06/16 07:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting turbowop:

Garbage.




What ever happened to chutter?



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3282 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
(2600:1003:b119:b) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226455 posted 04/06/16 12:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That too



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

Posts: 11850 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (2600:100f:b02d:b) | Report this post to a Moderator

Gizmovr4
Member +
431/1000
584/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226467 posted 04/06/16 09:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I love how clean everything is! Great attention to detail ! Well done sir



Nate Crisman Racing www.performancepartout.com
Vinny Ten Racing click
431/1000 [email protected] 584/1000 556AWHP

Posts: 363 | From: andover,NJ | Member Since: 11/18/09 | IP: (2600:1001:b02e:6) | Report this post to a Moderator

ApexHunter
Extreme Indoor Cyclist
1951/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226520 posted 04/08/16 10:50 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Jesus man. Impressive work there. Seems about perfect now. It all really came together, and the airbox really grew on me.

I'm interested to see how the car likes the 68HTA vs. the bastard 20g.

Posts: 1909 | From: Oceanside, CA | Member Since: 04/25/07 | IP: (68.5.129.154) | Report this post to a Moderator

NYC86ZC
30-Something
541/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226565 posted 04/09/16 08:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks great. Nice pics and commentary.



-92 Grey #541
-05 WRX

Posts: 1001 | From: Long Island, NY | Member Since: 12/05/05 | IP: (100.37.157.8) | Report this post to a Moderator

tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226566 posted 04/09/16 08:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I wish I used a graphite gasket. Were the main studs in there before or just added? No mention of a line hone. Also what's the first impression of that bov? No cam timing? Everything looks the part. Good job.

Posts: 1356 | From: ronkonkoma, ny | Member Since: 12/19/12 | IP: (66.249.83.184) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1226568 posted 04/09/16 09:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
The block was line honed for the studs, and the cams were degreed. The BOV is awesome so far.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3282 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
(24.145.93.250) | Report this post to a Moderator


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