Cleaned up pretty nice with caustic soda and nylon pipe brushes. Now that its clean I'm noting that it looks like it was manufactured very poorly.

Do I have to take it apart and port it to make the best of this piece?
r


Look how bad the two pieces are aligned.

What I did was open the "receiving" end of the tubes a bit so there would not be a step facing the flow(inlet) side. Does that make sense? Mine is still a little off, but I'm making 325whp with a s16g, so I doubt there is much power to be found in making it perfect. Porting the manifold is a bitch. It's hard to get anything in there that will remove material around the bends.

I would, however, love to have mine extrude honed. I think I'll wait though until I'm rich and have nothing else to spend money on.

That was what I had in mind Quote:
open the "receiving" end of the tubes a bit so there would not be a step



Did you have it running before and after this procedure?
Just trying to figure out if its worth opening it up for this or not.

I just do a clean up on them, Knock down bumps and casting marks. I have seen them be really off from the gasket

Yea, I never noticed a difference. Your not going to add 20whp by doing anything drastic. You gotta remember that there is "play" in the bolts when tightening it down too. So the pieces can shift and your work could end up for nothing. Using dowels is the only way to insure a perfect fit and seamless flow. I'd guess 1-5whp gain in the process? I didn't spend a lot of time on mine and it works just fine.

Just look at head castings. You'll never find a head with "good" runners. The losses will add up, but it's not a huge difference. I'm pretty anal, and seeing it bothered me, but my rational side took over and I didn't bother spending hours of grinding and sanding to make that few extra ponies. I did look into some sort of a flexible sanding tool that would "snake" it's way in the runners to smooth them out and add a some CFM of airflow, but I came up empty handed. Best thing to do would be to have the whole manifold extrude honed, but that could cost up to $400. I think cutting the plenum off and welding on a bigger one would yield much better results in the high end. I think it was Garfeild Wright that did that on a few Cyclone manifolds and had good results.

I'd rather just add 1-3 lbs of boost.... but to each his own.

I know it won't make a huge difference but I'm torn between being finally finished and knowing I did everything I could.

The USDM manifold I was going to use had enlarged port for the pcv system. I would like to do that to this manifold as well.

Ill see if I can find the time. That's what it ultimately comes down to.

Thanks for the input.

I've had a two of these manifold crack on me in years past. Unlike the USDM manifold, these REQUIRE you to run the brackets they were originally mounted with. If you don't use the brackets... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif you could be in for a bit of not so fun times. I ran another with the bracket underneath, and made sure the two little top brackets that hold the 1st and 3rd pieces together were in place, and that one never cracked in over a year of DDing it.

Damn, I haven't cracked mine, but I torque all bolts and use the upper bracket that connected to the CAS. Going on 4 years and 15k dd.

Good to know. I was planning to use all four stock brackets. The bottom brace holds the vacuum canister so nicely. why get rid of it?

By the way is the JDM and USDM CAS bracket the same size? Only have the USDM one.

As far as I know it is. I'm using the USDM one currently. It fit fine til I ran AN fittings at the rail. Then some grinding happened.

Planning on -8an to 3/8npt fitting tapped into the fuel rail. And connecting a -8an with a 45 fitting.

Do you have a 45 on the end of your fuel feed hose?
If not will a 45 alleviate the need to grind it down?

Mine is a 45 aimed straight down. I ground it down to make it way more servicable. That way the line can be removed without taking the bracket off. Think ahead to save headaches later. I used a 45 as an outlet too so it turns and clears the timing cover.

Quoting tektic:
Planning on -8an to 3/8npt fitting tapped into the fuel rail. And connecting a -8an with a 45 fitting.

Do you have a 45 on the end of your fuel feed hose?
If not will a 45 alleviate the need to grind it down?



I'm just curious... Why are you running -8AN for fuel? Are you running some monstrous E85 terror setup? If so, then why are you running a puny cyclone manifold?

Its big but I don't want to do it twice. Is it going to be too much of a presure drop or something?

I don't know about that but 6an is much easier to work with and can easily support more hp than 99% of us make our will make.

Quoting tektic:
Planning on -8an to 3/8npt fitting tapped into the fuel rail.



Why ????? Just weld this fitting and call it a day if your using a stock rail click

If I had a tig welder I would. I do however have a 3/8 npt tap.

this fitting is available

I decided against modifications for the manifold. Jus cleaned and painted it.

Made some brackets for the transistor and coil pack connectors. Thanks EHmotorsports for the idea.

Nice work!

Quoting tektic:
Made some brackets for the transistor and coil pack connectors. Thanks EHmotorsports for the idea.






im glad it helped looking good my friend.