So I have My built block, head and a set of gaskets, water pump timing belt and pules... ect.

What takes Thread lock ? What color?
What takes Assembly Lube? or Valvoline for priming oil pump?
Should I use copper gasket spray on anything?
I have arp Lube for head bolts.
Am I forgetting anything?
Oh, What takes silicone? Maybe Honda Bond or similar?

I have no balance shafts, so I use blue lock tite on just about every damn bolt. I rarely ever use red on my car. I do that because I know I'll have it apart soon enough anyway.

Oil pan is RTV, anything rated for high temp is fine. As for copper spray, I don't recommend it. A properly cleaned/prepared gasket surface will seal with a good gasket. You'll want to use assembly lube on any internal engine component that normally sees oil pressure that moves. Don't ever pack the oil pump with it as you will starve bearings of oil. I've never "primed" my engine builds as you'll see oil pressure within 20 seconds if everything is right. The assembly lube will last long enough to prevent damage.

You do have a quality torque wrench right? I highly recommend using a 1/2" for big stuff and a 3/8" for the little stuff. Torque as much as you can.
You say you have arp lube for the head bolts? Are these factory bolts, or ARP studs? Do not use ARP lube on factory bolts. They were never intended to be lubed with moly.

BS delete? If so, dont forget to flip the bearing 180 if you are reusing the one in the front case.

Red threadlock for flywheel bolts and cam sprocket bolts, blue for pp bolts, oil pump sprocket, and i like a dab on the oil pump castle plug.

I use moly grease for the oil pump.

I dont use copper spray unless the gasket has been used before. Unless you absoloutly have to, its cheaper to buy a new gasket.

Use the "right stuff" for bonding the valve cover where its not flat (the corners of the cam caps) and over the half moon plug. Some prefer it for the oil pan YMMV. Other than those two, i prefer ITM gaskets.

Good luck!

Thanks guys.

No copper spray will be used during this build. I have all Mitsubishi gaskets that will go on dry.

I'm assuming your talking about "Permatex 230-85224 The Right Stuff Gasket Maker"? So regular gray permatex would be better for the pan gasket? and the right stuff is only needed for the VCG?

I have HF tork wrenches in both sizes. I guess I should borrow a nicer tool?

When using moly grease for the oil pump do you fill it, or how does that work?

BS deleted, Bearing fliped 180 to cover oil holes.

I have the ARP head studs and lube for use with my Mitsubishi MLS HG and very finely finished head and block surfaces.

My Machinist told me that the tork specks written in service manuals assume 30 weight oil applied to threads.
Do you adjust your numbers for the blue thread locker?

Edit: Is there a gasket for the oil pressure regulator in the head ? If not what do I seal that with?

No gasket for the regulator in the head. Just a machined surface. I use Permatex ultra grey for liquid gasket on the oil pan and in the corners of the valve cover gasket. As far as priming the oil pump I just use assembly lube on all rotating parts and then once the motor is assembled before I put the timing belt on I put oil in the pan and spin the oil pump until I have oil pressure. I've seen an un-primed motor take a while to get oil pressure at idle. When you install the water pump use a silicon grease to lube the O ring well so it doesn't tear when you install the pump.

Right stuff is good for anything, really.

HF is ok, clicker type torque wrenches are decently accurate at lower settings (its off by %'s) For the higher torque, I usually go 2% above max torque

Remove the gears, fill the cavity with grease, including gears, you want to get rid of as much air space as possible. The drill powering the pump works too, but you have to do it before you put the belt on. I have also removed the fitting on the OFH and pumped manually through the system. Thats probably the best route, but its messy.

Chase the threads for the head studs and hand tighten the studs.

I only install dry (I have never dissasebled a car and had the bolts be oily), and threadlocker does not change torque specs.

There is a gasket for the HLA, its rubber and stayed inside the HLA top, IIRC. I usually try to avoid removal though, so i dont know that much about it.

Thanks Guys

I forgot MD040332... Which is some kind of shield or retainer for the rear main seal.

Yup, ive forgotten that on the stand before. Hope you remembered before you put the flywheel on!

What is the HLA?

Hydraulic lash adjuster. It's on the top of the head, under the valve cover

Of course.

New crank had no woodrif key, or fly wheel pin.
Aluminum fly wheel is bigger than stock. So the new fly wheel bolts I ordered are all to short. I had the auto plate but need starion flywheel bolts.
6-Bolt A/T Plate - (MD952138)
Starion 12x26 flywheel to crank bolts - (MD008839)

My southbend clutch didn't come with a alignment tool or a tob. So I have to order those too. (Edit: tob and alignment tool were included)

Almost done though

last time i saw that thing we were bolting the head on, ill try and make it next weekend. hopefully the parts you need are in. cant wait to hear it start.