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Clutch won't disengage.

nemovr4

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Joined
Nov 19, 2012
Messages
139
Location
Denver, Colorado
I have read through the "clutch diagnosis" page that is always posted up when the words clutch, or problem are used. Haven seen much that relates to my problem, and before I just pull everything out and replace the clutch, TOB, fork, pivot ball I wanted to see if anyone could shed some light on this.
The clutch pedal works fine but the clutch won't actually disengage. Could it be the Pivot ball being worn?
Also the current clutch has less than 1,000 miles on it, but the fork and ball haven't been replaced for...a while.
 

boostin4door

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Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
150
Location
Chicago, Il.
Is your fly wheel a oem/stock one?
Is it within the right thickness specs/tolerances? was it resurfaced properly? [w/a proper "step cut"] Some machine shop don't resurface/cut our flywheels properly.
 

rdomeck

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Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
Welcome to one of the most common clutch problems for these cars. Here is a good page to read.... click

I have tried everything on mine minus the pressure plate and disc. That will be next on my list.
 
Last edited:

Jason G.

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Oct 7, 2003
Messages
3,279
Location
Anderson, SC
Start with the hydraulic system first. You stated the pedal assembly is fine, are you positive there is no play at all?
 

nemovr4

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Joined
Nov 19, 2012
Messages
139
Location
Denver, Colorado
Flywheel is the stock/OEM six bolt, not sure if the flywheel was resurfaced to the right thickness...But it was done...
Sorry, I am fresh to this^^ I felt the clutch fork and tried wiggling it very small amout of twist. I can push the slave cylinder towards the drivers side and it returns fine. When the clutch pedal is pushed the fork and cylinder move just fine.
Where would I be noticing any free play????
 

Jason G.

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Oct 7, 2003
Messages
3,279
Location
Anderson, SC
Check the movement of the pedal vs. the master cylinder rod movement. You'll have to look up under the dash at master cylinder.

Also check the position of the fork at the slave, what does it look like?

Are all the trans to engine bolts accounted for and tight?

Just to be clear, this clutch worked fine for 1k miles and stopped working?
 

nemovr4

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Joined
Nov 19, 2012
Messages
139
Location
Denver, Colorado
I have read about shimming the fork after it has been worn...Does anyone have a link that would show me more about this??
The flywheel was fine and working for the 1000miles after the new clutch was put in. The disengaging problem started happening slowly over a few months.
The clutch started grinding going into Third, then slowly over about 4 months more gears. Then finally, the problem.(won't disengageat all)
 

nemovr4

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Joined
Nov 19, 2012
Messages
139
Location
Denver, Colorado
Quoting Jason G.:
Check the movement of the pedal vs. the master cylinder rod movement. You'll have to look up under the dash at master cylinder.

Also check the position of the fork at the slave, what does it look like?

Are all the trans to engine bolts accounted for and tight?

Just to be clear, this clutch worked fine for 1k miles and stopped working?



1st- Pedal vs. cylinder rod movement look normal and working..
2nd- Have pictures but it appears to be sitting a tad bit to the passenger side...but the cylinder rod is tight against it.
3rd- Checked trans bolts and all are accounted for and tight

Also yes the clutch was working fine after instal, then slowly stopped working to its current state...
 

nemovr4

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Joined
Nov 19, 2012
Messages
139
Location
Denver, Colorado



Don't think this is going to work...trying to upload from my phone.
 

nemovr4

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Nov 19, 2012
Messages
139
Location
Denver, Colorado
Yup it worked, sorry. Noob haha.
That is the best picture I can get showing the positioning of the clutch fork.
 

Jason G.

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Oct 7, 2003
Messages
3,279
Location
Anderson, SC
Favoring the passenger side indicates an issue within the fork/pivot ball, it should be more to the driver side.
armcentered.jpg
 

rdomeck

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Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
Sounds like your going to start with the hydraulics. Have a friend push on the clutch pedal while you watch the fork. I would suspect that since this has happened gradually that the hydraulics aren't moving enough fluid. Has your clutch fluid level been going down?
 

nemovr4

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Joined
Nov 19, 2012
Messages
139
Location
Denver, Colorado
^^ Already checked, when the clutch was pushed down the slave cylinder would push the fork
over towards the passenger side, as far as the rubber fitting would allow. It appears to be working fine...
So I was talking to my dad, and he has never replaced the fork or pivot ball, and from what I have
been reading/hearing, it sounds like replacing the fork and pivot ball is what needs to happen. I just
want to make sure before I pull the trans...its a lot of work when I don't have a garage to work in.
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
It pushes the fork, but does it push it far enough? Most people that have issues with hydraulics get some movement out of the slave, just not enough.
 

desant78

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Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Messages
732
Location
Clarksboro, NJ
How long ago was your clutch replaced? I had the same problem, and very soon it lead to a slipping clutch. My clutch "disc" (sorry if it is not the proper words) was so worn and thin, that the slave just couldn't get it to disengage. It felt like I wasn't pushing the clutch in, even though the slave was indeed moving. Same thing happened to a friend BMW, minus the slipping part. Put in a new clutch kit, with same fork etc, and it worked just fine.

Might want to see when the clutch was last replaced. Good luck!
 

nemovr4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 19, 2012
Messages
139
Location
Denver, Colorado
The clutch was replaced about 3 years ago...but it only got about a thousand miles on it before this problem happend and now it has been sitting for like 2 years.
 
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