NOTICE: This forum is for archiving information and discussions. Please do not reply to threads unless you have valuable information to add. Do not post questions or problems here.
Stage 1 mods
posted 02/05/03 09:37 AM
$95 It is hard to find a good place for the boost gauge.
K&N Air Filter
Remove the air box and just put the K&N over the MAS.
Remove the air silencer, this is the paper filter located behind the MAS.
It's round and has a zig-zag type of pattern to the material inside.
Do NOT remove the honeycomb in the MAS. For 90-94 DSMs, they have an additional honeycomb that the GVR4 doesn't have.
Cat-back Exhaust System
Buschur Racing has a great 3" cat back that is mandrel bent.
Certified Muffler sells 2.5" or 3" systems in stainless or aluminized steel.
Don't risk your car with a crappy Wal-Mart pump. Get a good ND pump.
You can get either a Supra stock fuel pump (made by ND) or you can get the common ND pump upgrade sold by most vendors.
With either fuel pump, you'll need to use new wires in the tank.
I would suggest using 10 gauge wire.
Do NOT use electrical tape in the tank.
Two real choices here. One is a manual valve that requires you to go under the hood to change the boost setting.
Buschur Racing sells the "Mark Hallman" boost controler and is the best one going.
The other choice is to get an electronic boost controler which allows cockpit control but it costs more.
This modification eliminates your catalytic converter, and is for "offroad use only".
Expect the exhaust tone (sound) to increase and the power to come on strong when the turbo hits.
Get the same brand test pipe that you get for you cat back to make sure everything fits well.
Again, get the same brand down pipe that you get for you cat back to make sure it all fits 100%.
Just so you know, the down pipe from the 90-94 AWD DSM will fit perfectly on a GVR4.
Port your oxygen sensor housing and your turbine housing.
This makes the turbo spool up faster, relieves unwanted backpressure and increases your top end power.
Road Race Engineering and TurboTrix seem to have the best port work out there.
95 or EVO Ported Manifold
In 1995, the exhaust manifold was upgraded for DSMs.
They are a lot stronger and don't crack or warp like a stock GVR4 exhaust manifold.
Don't waste your time porting your stock exhaust manifold because it will crack.
You could also get an exhaust manifold from an Evolution III.
It comes ready to match to a 7cm exhaust housing from a 16G turbo.
Less port work is required to make it flow really well.
High Performance Clutch
ACT and Centerforce are the best clutches for this car.
Road Race Engineering sell these at a good price.
If you upgrade to 4 bolt axles, then an ACT 2600 clutch is a good choice.
Tons more holding power but harder on the drivetrain.
Posts: 1435 | From: Franklin, TN, USA | Member Since: 02/21/01 | IP: (220.127.116.11) |
| 0 registered and
2 anonymous users are browsing this forum.
Galant VR4.org Moderator: curtis, steve, atc250r, jcgalntvr4-244, cheekychimp, jepherz, Rausch, toybreaker, iceman69510, pot, FlyingEagle
You cannot start new topics
You cannot reply to topics
HTML is disabled
UBBCode is enabled
Thread views: 5241
News & Events: News | Events
Galant VR-4: Newbies | General VR4 Discussions | Technical Discussions | How To and Info Archive
Marketplace: Parts For Sale | Cars For Sale | Good Guys | Bad Guys
Community: Members' Showcase
Generated in 0.059 seconds in which 0.031 seconds were spent on a total of 14 queries. Turbo powered.
Hertz's Galant VR-4 Page