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Idle problems

JoeDaddy0

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
63
Location
CA, USA, Beverly Hills
Mitsu mechanic in Portland recently replaced timing belt and idle control valve.
I had a lazy idle 800rpm when warm and 1100rpm when fully warm or hot. No idle increase when under load and cold idle surged 1400rpm-2400rpm.
After new valve I had no cold idle increase and it dropped during load so engine would die so I would need to turn idle above 1100rpm.

Now idles speed motor was replaced locally idle low is 2500rpm.

My mechanic in Portland sent new idle control motor. He said a scanner should show how far out of step idle speed control motor would be or the throttle cable is to tight hence holding throttle open


I drove into local AAA with a decent idle @1000 and no cold start increase and no 200rpm load compensation idle. Now??????? 2500rm is worse than before.
 
Last edited:

Vr4junkie

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
596
Location
Some wack town in CA
You might want to make your post a little more shorter its like reading a dam essay /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif make it short and get straight to the point you might get some help then.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
you need to properly adjust your biss screw. here is a link. click do this and it will be fine. also make sure to read carefully as there are instructions for a 1g T/E/L in there as well
 
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JoeDaddy0

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
63
Location
CA, USA, Beverly Hills
is there more than one idle motor at throttle body. Is there a seperate motor controlling idle control valve and 2nd being idles speed motor or are they both the same?
 

xaisomboun

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Minnesota
I believe that the idle speed motor is the only thing controlling idle next to the FIAV (raises idle on a cold start). And follow that link that was posted above. BUT make sure to test for boost/vacuum leaks beforehand as any unmetered air will mess with your idle.


If there are no boost leaks, and you have a properly adjusted idle, the only thing that would be last is a malfunctioning FIAV. There are many different ways to deactivate the FIAV if you google around.
 

JoeDaddy0

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
63
Location
CA, USA, Beverly Hills
My last repair was the replacement of FIAV. wow $250 for part alone and about $400 with labor. Now we start again with another couple hun for isc and labor. Man I do have to become a DIY inspite of my back and neuropathy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif

I am taking my finicky BG back to Portland isc motor in the glove box and hope for the best. Yeay

to paraphrase a member on the board "a face only a mother could love"
Boy this is not a make up job it is full reconstructive surgery /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

Big Thanx to old wise ones.
 
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transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
you really do have to become a DIY guy with these cars, or find someone one this forum in your area who knows them well and ask him to help. people on this forum are friendly and usually very helpful. ask around here first before going back to the mechanic your using.
 
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