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Re: Running wires for stereo install


number3
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109534 posted 03/18/03 08:47 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by spoulson:
quote:
Originally posted by number3:
I work for Hifi House in Broomall, PA. Tweeter would like to think we are a competitor. I was hinting on their silly ad compaign "Boatload of know how".

So that's where you work. My gf works across the street at Brother's Electric. I'll have to stop in one day to say hi.
Do you still want me to ship the SSSS to you then? You could always pick it up... [Smile]

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number3
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109535 posted 03/18/03 08:50 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by spoulson:
Ok, I got all the necessary pre-outs, 4ga power, and ground connections all ready in the trunk.

I was test fitting my two amps and they seem to be able to fit on the back of the rear seat. But that panel seems pretty flimsy as it is just some kind of cardboard and behind it is padding from the rear seat.

How has anyone else mounted the amps? I have a sheet of 1/2" MDF here but I don't really want to use it unless I have to because it's damn heavy. I'd prefer not to mount it on the trunk floor because I'd still like to have storage. I also hate drilling so I'd like to use factory holes if possible. Any ideas?

Mount them to the board. It does two things. The first and most important is that it help isolate them from the chassis ground (screws through the amplifiers metal mounting points to the metal body of the car can cause ground loops) second it is much neater and more secure.

Harry

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spoulson
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109536 posted 03/26/03 08:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ok, so I've made some progress since the last post of this thread, but I'm not done yet.

I ended up buying a 4x2 of 1/4" hardboard, cutting it to size of the back-of-rear-seat cardboard, then securing it with 1/4" bolts through the snap holes. Voila, secure fit for both amps, no drilling. I'm happy.

So now onto the front stuff. I have two main questions:

1) How the hell can anyone fish a wire thru the door boot? I can't get at it on either end. I can't even see the wires coming through on the inboard end.

2) My front speakers are components. I decided to mount the woofer in the door and the tweeter in the dash speaker location. I cut hardboard adapter plates for both and they fit. So now I need to find a place for the passive crossover. It's not too big, maybe 4"x2"x1" at most. There doesn't seem to be a plainly obvious place to put it so I'd like to know where others have put theirs. Again, no drilling is a plus. [Smile]

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Scott Y
mighty skunk hunter
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109537 posted 03/26/03 09:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I mounted my tweeters in the dash using plexiglass, and I cut the door mounts to fit 6.5" drivers. I ran the wires through the door harness, and it was no fun at all. I used a wire coat hanger, and I poked through from the door into the car. It took a loooooooong time and I had to have some beers and a ton of patience, but I was able to run the wires through. On the drivers' side I mounted the crossover on the bottom of the plastic vent tube (you'll know which one I'm talking about), and on the passenger side I used velcro with super-sticky tape and stuck it on the inside of the dash, beside the glovebox.
It took a long time to install the speakers, but I wanted it to look completely stock, and I'm pleased with the results.

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Scott Y
mighty skunk hunter
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109538 posted 03/27/03 07:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sorrry, I didn't mean to double-post in this thread - suffering work induced brain fade.

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spoulson
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109539 posted 04/01/03 09:05 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well it looks like I'm about done with the install. The system is running and sounds great. I will just have to tweak the gain/crossover settings over time, but it's pretty good now.

Incase you haven't seen, I have a picture of the amp rack here. I probably should've taken pictures of the adapter plates I fabricated for _every_ speaker. They're not beautiful, but they all fit well.

I did not run speaker wire into the door. I felt that was too much work and I'm anxious to get the car back on the road. Instead, I used the factory speaker wire starting at the stereo harness. It was a compomise. The factory wire looks about 18ga, but it looks like each speaker only gets about 4' of this, and the rest is 16ga wire that I ran. This also gave me some room to put the crossovers. I zip-tied all the wires into groups and then put the crossover boxes in the very front of the console, just right of the accelerator pedal.

For a day I thought I somehow toasted the head unit, but it was really a dead battery. For some reason Alpine CDA-7995 head units emit lots of interference to the subwoofer when it's running at a low voltage (9V), perhaps too low for the processor to fully process the audio. Then it promptly turns off. A new battery put it back in action.

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Hertz Galant VR4.org Administrator
OneTitle to rule them all.
77/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109540 posted 04/01/03 02:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You blocked your rear seat pass through -- where are you going to put your skis?

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spoulson
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109541 posted 04/01/03 02:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sorry, I left out a small detail. I have a condition of patella subluxation in my left knee. I couldn't ski even if I wanted to for fear of tearing more tissue in my joint. [Frown] A sled will fit just fine in the trunk. [Big Grin]

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theymightbegalants
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109542 posted 08/07/03 05:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sorry to resurrect this post; I found it while searching for details on running battery cables to the trunk. I'm running 0 gauge, and a few posters on this thread are as well, but didn't really say how you got this huge mofo through the firewall. I had a 10 gauge wire for the fuel pump going through the ECU's wiring harness grommeted hole, but that is WAY too tight for 0 gauge. I found a plug down by where the charcoal canister is, and tried shoving it through, but it stopped and I couldn't find the end of it, plus I didn't see any other holes up under the glovebox.

I'm sure the solution is there, but after a few days in the garage on only a few hours sleep it all starts to look the same. [Wink]

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number3
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109543 posted 08/07/03 06:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Mine runs under the car but mine is not a daily driver anymore.

Harry

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Hertz Galant VR4.org Administrator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109544 posted 08/07/03 07:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hmm.. trying to remember... YMMV

Dig around on the passenger side foot well, right at the door frame, under carpet area... there's a covered hole (fairly decent size) that passes through the frame, momentarily in the spot where all the tree debris gathers -- from there you can pass through to underneath the wheelwell (remove the plastic lining to see) and then there is another access panel that takes you to approximately the stock fuse box (under).

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turbowop
Hard Snarker
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109545 posted 08/08/03 12:13 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Take off the inner fender lining on the front passenger wheelwell and you will find a rather large plug in the firewall. Go thru there. You will come out right behind the glovebox. There is a more detailed explanation somewhere in the mess of threads on this site.

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theymightbegalants
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109546 posted 08/08/03 09:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Cool. Yea, I'd seen that thread about the fenderwell, but didn't like the idea of the wire going "outside" the car. I did end up using that hole in the fenderwell; just drilled a hole in the middle of the plug to pass the wire through. I didn't want it go all the way across the fenderwell though, so I had it come up & out the unused 4th hole in the strut tower. Much easier and simpler IMHO. Thanks for all your help guys!

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Hertz Galant VR4.org Administrator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109547 posted 08/09/03 12:47 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Jon, that almost sounds worse -- think it would be prone to a lot of vibration there, good chance of grounding out!

Be very careful passing wire through anything metal -- got to have grommets or some type of protection there. I'm sure we can dig up some Galant-on-fire photos from the archives if you're interested... [Wink]

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theymightbegalants
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109548 posted 08/09/03 02:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I know, don't think that hasn't occurred to me. I did enlarge the hole with the dremel, and used that foam rubber stuff that covers the stock vacuum lines for insulation. I may go back in there and do something else, I dunno, enlarge the hole some more to put a real grommet in there.

Why would the vibration be worse there? It's only like 14 inches from the other hole where other people routed theirs, and it's the same piece of metal.

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number3
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109549 posted 08/09/03 06:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Use a rubber/plastic grommet that fits in the hole your cut to protect the wire. A fuse no farther than 18" from the battery is a MUST!

Harry

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theymightbegalants
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109550 posted 08/10/03 06:50 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks Harry. Yes, I need a fuse ASAP... when fumbling w/the ground wire, I accidently brushed the hot wire... holy crap. Sooo, what strength fuse would you recommmend? What about a circuit breaker instead? And why the 18" from the battery?

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number3
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109551 posted 08/10/03 07:27 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The current draw of your system will determine the fuse size. If you are powering a single amplifier a 30 amp fuse or break should be plenty. Look at the fuse on the power supply (of the amp) and just make sure is is at least that big.

18" or closer to the battery is a car audio standard. The closer the better.

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theymightbegalants
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109552 posted 08/10/03 07:59 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks, but I'm not running an amp. Not really into car audio. I thought you were referring to a fuse somewhere between the battery (trunk) and the positive connections in the engine bay. What sort of fuse would one use in that scenario? Maybe 95-100 amp, that area, as our cars have 90 amp alternators?

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Hertz Galant VR4.org Administrator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109553 posted 08/11/03 08:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
For the battery relocation, you really should find a circuit breaker, mount it less than 18" from the battery. You really don't want a short/fire anywhere outside of your engine bay.

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steve Galant VR4.org Administrator
Key Fob Guy


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109554 posted 11/18/03 12:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by turbowop:
Pull off the passenger front tire and the plastic inner fender lining that goes up over the tire. Behind it on the firewall is a huge plug that you can poke a crapload of wires through. It comes out right behind the glovebox on the inside of the car. In the fenderwell you can ty-wrap the power wire right to the abs sensor wire that goes through there and into the engine bay. It comes out right behind the battery. When its all done this way it looks very clean.

THANK YOU search feature, and turbowop... I'm reviving this thread to say I can also vouch for this method, I just spent my lunch hour pulling the wheel off and splashguard off, and running my 4gauge from the battery to the trunk.  -

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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
Turn Right Racing
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109555 posted 11/18/03 03:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Followed that exact same advice when I did my cable and it worked excellent. That was the easiest part of running the cable. The seat mount bracket was much harder to negotiate around.

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Beemer
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109556 posted 11/19/03 01:42 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I just mounted an electronic boost gauge, and went thru the DRIVERS fenderwell with the grommet for the hood latch cable. I just drilled a hole right next to it with the old dewalt, snapped a grommet in, and viola, right next to the fuse box. I was fishing around on the passenger side, and was trying to get a fish tape thru the plugged hole in the frame rail that's right under the CAS (but on the body, you guys know where I am talking about) I'm trying to run 2/0 welders cable back to the trunk. Saw the grommet with all the engine wires, but honestly that's a pretty damned big wire bundle. I was trying to find a way to run from the inner frame rail thru the body to the rocker panel, then fishing the wire down the rocker panel on the pass side, coming back up into the interior right were the pass rear dogleg molding is, and from there into the trunk. However, I can't get the fishtape thru from the engine compartment all the way under the frame rail to hop across to the rocker panel. Any ideas?

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