Okay I want to delete my AWS. I have a 91 gvr4 and found a 91 eclipse gsx at the local u-pull.. In the find I was looking for a 5lug swap, found it along with non abs brake lines.. Moving on to my crazy sun burnt thoughts... Could I delete my AWS by swapping trailing arms?? The axles are both 3 bolts and measurement of the two trailing arms sized up are identical. This is a question that may help me figure this out easily or give anyone who reads this a brain hemroid.. Please help.. Thanks!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Answer is No, just remove the rear rack, the pump on top of the rear diff and cap it off (or leave it if you figure out something to cap that hole with), remove all the lines and install the power rack from the DSM with the DSM resevoir (or cap off the line for the 4WS on your stock resevoir).

Trailing arms are interchangeable and whether or not they have 3 bolt or 4 bolt axle cups has nothing to do with anything other than whatever rear differential you are running.

Cool! So AWS trailing arms and non AWS trailing arms are the same, the only thing I was worried about was my rear wheels dog tailing how ever they please.. One more ? .. On 3xs.com there are adjustable arms in replacement of the rear power rack it goes from the trailing arm to the sub frame, would those give any advantage after install.. Per handling and suspension/ alignment ??

The arms will allow you to adjust camber, which my car badly needed.

Which you can already adjust camber on the factory rear control arms.

I'm sure the adjustable camber arms allow for a greater range of adjustment?

Quoting raptorreed:
Which you can already adjust camber on the factory rear control arms.


unless you're running any kind of drop, in which case, max adjustment isn't enough. On my 1g I couldn't even adjust out prokits and the drop from them is pretty minimal.

Read his post better...

Quote:
there are adjustable arms in replacement of the rear power rack it goes from the trailing arm to the sub frame



These are not the same as the rear camber arm...these go in place of the gvr4 stock rear power steering arm...

yes, i am planning out the AWS delete and i want it to be nice and solid for autocross, they are indeed an improvement but any one running em on here?? i just did an alignment and when you move the rear P/S rack arms it makes weird numbers.. wondering if deleting the AWS and driving it will throw off adjustments on turns and corners?? without 3sx replacement arms installed??

Yeah, as far as camber adjustment, I think oem uses cam bolts, no? If that's the case, you're not going to get much adjustment and especially if you're lowered. Adjustable arms are the way to go, although the older ingalls (iirc) are pretty flimsy at the connection point and can see how they break. I have an older pair that I plan to put on (need it bad since mine's lowered) but before I do, going to redo them a little to add some strength at the connection (where it threads for adjustment)...Least they're not control arms like you find on a solid axle (esp front like a Jeep) as once those break, it's bad news if you're on the highway! Not sure how bad it'd be if these break, but I'm not going to take a chance.

HERES THE LINK

click
i think i saw this link on here before..

.... i assume this is the best way to go price/quality/ease of install.. and that is true! since i lowered mine on (agx) and (tien) springs the alignment is in desperate need of adjustable arms, has anyone done front tie rods and ball joint up grading?? while i was under there i noticed they are pretty small and may give in under a lot of stress over time...if so can you point me to some parts/links?

Those eliminate passive toe or "Active" steering & will not affect camber nor should they be used to SET toe. For that I still say you're better off having the ends welded than adding another set of wear points, read, complexity.

i would like to weld some arms on there but im considering if i have to remove parts for any reason.. i dont want to pull out the grinder/plasma cutter on em.. but that was my first thought of deleting the AWS

The weld up won't cause any such issue. you weld up the front of the trailing arm at the pivot point just behind the front most bushing. this makes the trailing arm one piece instead of two. And at the same time eliminates active/passive toe. you will completely remove the rack, pump, lines... ect. it will greatly smplify the rear suspension set up. Your rear toe set will hold wherever you put it when alinging.

I'm at work right now but will post a link to the weld up when I get home.

AWSOME!! good deal!!