Anyone have a good spot I can get rotors for not ridiculously expensive for the stock 4 bolt setup other than Tunersnation. Ordered stuff from him a week ago and I'm getting no answers about any of the things I ordered. I'm looking for slotted rotors, not just oem.

I've had success here: click

slotted is poop, get oem and better pads.

Quoting Chase:
Anyone have a good spot I can get rotors for not ridiculously expensive for the stock 4 bolt setup other than Tunersnation. Ordered stuff from him a week ago and I'm getting no answers about any of the things I ordered. I'm looking for slotted rotors, not just oem.



Get some OEM blanks and a nice set of pads.
Oh and might want to get a refund from tunersnation.

You can try RockAuto. I recently got some 3kgt blank rotors. I'll stay away from tunersnation, i'm still waiting on my brackets.

Yea I found some to order. Still possed about my money to tunersnation. Still no answer. Started a PayPal claim already.

Quoting gtluke:
slotted is poop, get oem and better pads.



What wrong with slotted?

I have had slotted and slotted/cross drilled on several cars (daily drivers and high horsepower sports cars) and have never had issues. I have installed them on many of my friends cars over the last 10 years as well and have ever had any crack or warp.

Blanket statements like that show ignorance.

Solid rotors fail also. Let people choose what they want.

There is a seller from Chicago called Brakemotive. Their prices are great. They sell on eBay under Brakemotive76 if you like to look there.

I had a slotted/drilled Wilwood rotor crack once. I only get slotted now.

I've seen many, many drilled rotors crack. When I bought my Galant, it had really old drilled rotors, and to my surprise, they weren't cracked, but were well past their service life. It all has to do with how the rotors are "drilled."

If the car will see 1/4 mile passes or has a decent amount of power to the point it might need to be slowed down fast, I would get a pair of slotted rotors. I've had too many sets of cheap stock replacement blank rotors warp on me. Brembo blanks are the only blanks I would consider.

Im running these now[R1 Concepts] No problems in two years. I really like the zinc coating for the rust.

click

I think blanks and a good set of pads are the best way to go money and performance wise. It looks like OP doesnt want to spend too much. I run ebc slotted with hawk pads on my dd /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I ordered slotted with EBC pads. There's no point for me to buy big brakes for a street car. Money can be better spent in other aspects for my uses. I also wont buy drilled rotors due to cracking issues.

I found this tucked away in my bookmarks:

click

I've never ordered from them, but they seem to have several options.

Quoting turbowop:
I had a slotted/drilled Wilwood rotor crack once. I only get slotted now.






These do not look like Wilwood holes/slots.

Perhaps they're not Wilwoods, but they came with my TCE/Wilwood brake kit back in the day. It should probably be mentioned also that Todd replaced the rotor for me.

I have since found this model of rotor on Wilwood's site. It isn't very common (beacause it is expensive), but it is Wilwood /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif.

What kind of driving were you doing at the time?

Drag race stops ( the car was trapping around 119mph and weighs 3280lbs without me in it ) and street driving. The car is not a daily driver.

I've seen wilwood drilled rotors crack first hand. They were on a escalade ext. I drill stopped about 5 cracks. Slotted is the way to go.

worry about drilled/slotted when you can overheat a set of R4S pads, which you can't. Unless you are the one lap of america car. Otherwise you are buying nothing, or weakness, or rice.
FWIW I liked my R4S pads better than the HPS pads. The R4S pads grabbed super hard at high speed, and they lasted for freaking ever. I'm trying to think when I bought them, it must have been 7-8 years ago and 50-80k miles of abuse. I just changed them out this year for HPS pads.