Modified Injen 2G Intake Pipe For GVR4

[BluFalcon]

I recently installed a ETS FMIC kit on my car, which placed the BOV in the stock location. I didn't want to use ETS's intake kit because I wanted to relocate the battery to where the MAS was originally located and I was planning on using a 2G MAS for my new setup.

I got everything installed, and ended up using a stock 2G intake pipe to get the car running. It worked, but I couldn't get the BOV return hose to mate up with the inlet fitting on top of the intake. With the BOV vented to atmosphere, the car would have a tendency to stall at stop lights and was generally being a bit of pain (idle surging) to drive on a daily basis. This along with the fact that the stock intake snorkel looked like complete and utter garbage with electrical tape closing off the BOV return tube, mandated that a more appealing and permanent solution be implemented.

Here's what I went through to get a 2G Intake pipe to fit in my car and allow the BOV to be recirculated back into the intake. I took a few crappy cell phone pics that'll hopefully help show what I tried to do.

I tried a FP intake tube, but the tube hit the stock rad fan even with the adapter coupler that allowed the 4 in dia tube to be used with the EVOIII 16G on the car. I had no desire to switch to a slimline fan, so I decided to try and find something else.

I made a few calls and managed to scrounge up a nasty, beat up, spray painted Injen 2G aluminum intake tube, that looked to be a perfect fit for my setup. First things first though, was a date with a parts washer and a bead blaster. Then it was time for a few mods.

The next thing that needed to be done was relocate the resistor on the passenger side fan. I really wanted to keep the stock fan in place, and the pipe was going to be fairly close to the resistor. I drilled a new hole in the fan support and installed it with a few washers in between the plastic to help strengthen mounting point. I also lengthened the wires to meet up at it's new location.

Now on to working on the pipe itself:

I went ahead and cut the original BOV return tube and the various nipples on the tube, since I wouldn't be using them. Here you can see the areas that were cut out and cleaned up with a die grinder and a blue Scotch Brite pad.


I went ahead and sourced a new BOV return tube from a local shop, that'll be placed on the underside of the intake pipe.


I placed the pipe in the car and made a rough estimate as to where I wanted the BOV return tube to be placed on the intake. The area was marked with a Sharpie and a hole drilled into the pipe with a hole saw.


I cut out a piece of scrap aluminum to "plug" the large hole from the original BOV return tube on the top of the pipe and had it welded by a local shop, into place along with the new BOV return tube on the underside of the pipe. The two holes made when the nipples were cut off were plugged while welding and the smaller hole on the other side was plugged with some epoxy. I didn't clean the pipe as well as I should have, so there were a few spots where the grease and oil showed up while welding. Once it was off the welding table and cooled down a bit, I tried to clean it up with a die grinder, file and some sandpaper. After most of the high metal was knocked off, it went back into the bead blaster and got painted.





I used a radiator hose with a 90 degree bend cut to fit between the BOV and return tube. I got the hose from Autozone and tried to find the shortest piece with a 90 degree bend. The new return tube had the same diameter as a stock 2G BOV return tube, so I needed to adapt the outlet from the 1G BOV to allow the radiator hose to fit. I ended up using a small section of the original GVR4 rubber return tube as a spacer to fit over the BOV outlet and allow the radiator hose to be clamped down tightly.


Installed the intake pipe, radiator hose and clamped it down nice and tight.


And here's a few shots of it with the 2G MAS and K&N FIPK installed and ready to go.




Anyway, I hope this'll help some of you guys that are looking to do something similar. Overall I'm very happy with the way it all turned out. It looks a lot better, and the car drives just like it used to. No surging, no stalling and no annoying BOV salutes when coming off the throttle.

 

[ercp98]

+10000!!! on the idea and keeping tabs of details. like they said it's on the details that makes thing work out. very nice. what kind of battery is that?

 

Very nice! I did a similar thing with my intake pipe when I had my pipes made. I had 4gperformance mount the bov upsde down and weld the stock retun on the dejon pipe to give it the straightest flow back into the turbo.

 

[mistaVR4]

Nice write up, and good work! I like how it turned out man.

 

[spartan]

Nice work that looks great! I had to clock the bov flange on my dave brode kit to work with my 2g intake pipe.

 

[BluFalcon]

Thanks guys. I'm really pleased with the way it all turned out.

If anyone is interested, the battery is a Odyssey PC925 sitting in a Odyssey battery bracket bolted to a plate I cut to fit on the old MAS brackets. I had to use a spacer on the rear bolt hole to try and level the plate out. I was inspired by the "Blinging" Battery Tray and the old Scott Evans Battery Tray from back in the day. I bent a 90 degree piece of scrap metal and riveted it to the Ody tray and drilled a hole in it to allow it to be bolted to the third MAS bolt hole in the engine bay. The plate/tray assy is supported at three points and seems to be fairly sturdy. I had to do a little rearranging, but the positive and negative cables didn't require any lengthening to reach the terminals for the battery. The only thing I would do different is use a thicker piece of metal for the plate. If I ever take the battery out, I'll try and get some pictures taken of the setup.

 

[eviLntt]

That looks great! I smell a "How To"...

 

[BluFalcon]

Old thread revival. Pulled my battery tray out, in preparation for cleaning it up and getting it powdercoated. I figured someone might want to take a closer look at it, to use in their car with a relocated MAF, or to inspire some ideas of their own. I was inspired by the "Blinging Battery Tray" and the even older "Scott Evans Battery Tray". My main goals were to keep the battery under the hood. Provide space to relocate the MAF. Try to avoid cutting or splicing of the factory power or ground cables if possible.

The main plate is a piece of flat mild steel that's cut to shape and bolts to two of the stock MAF mount points. A small steel standoff is used on the rear mount point, to level the plate out. Before the plate gets powdercoated, I'll go ahead and have it welded up to the plate. I added some aluminum flat straps to the bottom of the plate, and used RTV along with pop rivets to secure the straps to the plate. I did this because the plate was kind of thin, and I wanted to add some rigidity to it. A Odyssey PC925 battery bracket bolts to the mount plate at three points, and has a 90 degree bracket riveted to it that bolts to the final MAF mount point, near the fuse box. This setup is very secure, and has no clearance issues with the hood. The battery sits in the tray, and the stock battery cables can be re-routed to the terminals with out any cutting or splicing.

Here's a few pics:

Main Plate, Odyssey PC925 Stamped Steel Bracket With Hold Downs


Underside Of Main Plate, Showing Reinforcement Straps


90 Degree Bracket Riveted To Odyssey Battery Tray For 3rd MAF Mount Point


Battery Tray On Top Of Mount Plate

Once I get everything cleaned up and powdercoated, I'll try and get some better pics of the assembly in and out of the car. Hope this helps.