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Battery Relocate Clarification


mooserage
New Title
254/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 886129 posted 03/30/10 03:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So I am trying to understand how to wire up my battery relocation so that the engine will cut properly when the killswitch is thrown. I have been reading, but I am confused on how to wire the alternator so that it won't allow the engine to keep running. I drew up an illustration to show what I am confused about. Basically if I connect the alternator output (or what I think is the output I guess) (blue wire) Won't this allow the engine to continue running off of the alternator? If I run a seperate alternator wire to the battery, won't this cut all power to the engine when the switch is thrown? Maybe I am completely going the wrong direction, but that is why I am asking this question. Thanks for the help.





-254/2000 Summit White DD (aka "The Yeti")

The Yeti loves winter and hates me.

-ムースライジュ


Edited by mooserage (02/20/18 01:14 PM)

Posts: 1173 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 05/17/04 | IP: (76.178.148.184) | Report this post to a Moderator

VR4ish
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 886136 posted 03/30/10 04:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Why is it that you NEED an electrical shutdown on your ride?
to answer some of your question...yes you would need to cut power coming from both the battery AND from the Alternator to fully/electrically shutdown your engine
are you not worried about headlights or anything else loosing power? or is this a drag vehicle?

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turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 886151 posted 03/30/10 05:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Disconnect that blue line from the alternator output and loop it over to the positive starter wire in the fuse block to complete the circuit. Problem solved. That's how mine has been since '03.

Like so:



Without looking at my setup, I'm about 99% sure this is how mine is.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051


Edited by turbowop (03/30/10 05:13 PM)

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OMFGeofffff
All I want is a dodgy
567/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 886337 posted 03/31/10 02:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I wouldn't advise you or anyone to do this but I've seen people run the cut-off switch to the + on the battery and fuel pump power wire instead of the alternator. It might not be the most legit way and depends how official your track is but its a way to avoid running double the wire throughout the car. Like I said it's just another option to think about.



-Jeff
Kensington Grey - A87 stock (EQ/input, no sunroof)
XBL - uh oh its JEFF

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mooserage
New Title
254/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 886397 posted 03/31/10 07:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah, I am just trying to satisfy any track regulations I may run into, and I want to do this once hence the clarification.

Okay, so I need to cut the 2 white alternator wires from this connection and connect it to a new line and run it back to the killswitch?


And is that connection on top of the fuse block connection (stamped 2827 w/ black wire loom)the starter connection?


Thanks for the help guys! i know this is noob, but pictures really help me to visualize it.
-shamus

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turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 886416 posted 03/31/10 07:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yes. But you can actually open that fuse dealie up and unbolt them instead of just cutting them. Then just run a jumper wire from where you unbolted them to the terminal that the main new feed wire from the battery connects to. I disconnected the large battery terminal but still use the ring terminal that attached to it. You can just install a new ring terminal to the jumper wire and bolt it all together.

EDIT

Here is a pic. Just run a jumper from where the two white alt wires you removed were, and attach the other end to this, which is also where your new battery feed wire will terminate.



EDIT AGAIN

Here is a great pic of my setup. I still need to clean up this wiring as I can't stand it, but it shows what's going on pretty well.

You can see that I ran the alt output wires into a fuse holder which then attaches to a 4awg wire that runs back to the kill switch. If you look closely you can also see the 8awg wire that ties in the old alt output termination point with the main battery terminal. Also, I used 2awg for the main battery relocation feed, for what it's worth.




-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051


Edited by turbowop (03/31/10 08:02 PM)

Posts: 11875 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (68.186.95.172) | Report this post to a Moderator

mooserage
New Title
254/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1241690 posted 02/20/18 01:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Raising this gem from the dead, because in my searching I found it and used it now that I was finally getting around to this.

Just wanted to get a sanity check:

Below I have my + Battery Feed (large gauge wire), Starter Wire (Black), a yellow accessory wire, and the single white/black alternator wire (removed from the old alternator fuse holder) connected. Below this, you can just make out the 2 alternator output wires that go to a fuse and then back to the + battery terminal. For those with this setup, does this seem correct?




Thanks!

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