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560 build thread

clevr4

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Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
Okay starting a new thread for all my little projects. 560 runs well, pulls hard, but has been brought to my attention that I have a couple issues that need addressing. I will start with the fuel rail issue. I have ordered a new rail and all the lines needed to mount my afpr on the firewall. The parts should be here by friday. I'll get to work either Sunday or Monday on the issue. I'll post pictures before and after. If i have any questions I'll be sure to post them here. Thanks guys
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
If you get some time, take a bunch of pics of your set-up. We can all take a peek and point out areas that need work.

As mentioned in the other thread we've noted:

Fuel rail set-up
Turbo oil feed line
WG upper nipple issue
Coolant vent line

We are here to help you out and with more pics we can help you get this car sorted out.
 

clevr4

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Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
Where should the wastegate nipple connect to?
 

rgeier11

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Sep 26, 2004
Messages
726
Location
Chicago Suburbs, IL
Your manual boost controller. The other end of the boost controller should "T" into the BOV vacuum line.
 
Last edited:

clevr4

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Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
Thanks, I'll see what I can see when I get a chance. Will come back with pictures
 

thomcasey

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Sep 24, 2014
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907
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Indianapolis, IN
I would avoid T-ing off the line to the BOV. There should be a nipple on your turbo J-pipe. Place the MBC (the new one you get) between the wastegate nipple and the J-pipe. Let the BOV have an un-tapped line to it from the Intake manifold.
 

clevr4

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Jan 26, 2015
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Rhoadesville, virginia
Any preference on boost controllers? Is it worth it to get electronic or would a manual one be sufficient for the time being?
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
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4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Are you on a budget? If so, don't worry about the controller right now. The turbo feed line is far more crucial at this point. If your wallet is fat, then just a manual boost controller. It's far less complex to set-up and will do just fine as I don't think you need to play with boost ramp rates, lo boost, hi boost, etc.


Also I'd recommend buying up a copy of Corky Bell's "Maximum Boost" and a copy of Robert Garcia/Richard Bowen's "How to Build Max-Performance Mitsubishi 4g63t Engines"

Those two books are the bibles of what to do and why on your engine. Max boost will teach you loads about turbos and associated systems, the max performance book is a 4G63 centered book written with Robert Garcia of RRE fame. There is tons of info there.
 

Fiascoxl

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Jan 25, 2013
Messages
320
Location
Stuarts Draft, Va
Manual should be more than sufficient, but if you are running link a simple vacuum solenoid will open up a lot more options for you. Also the top port of the waste gate doesn't necessarily need to be used, it does help smooth the actuation out and lets the gate work faster. It will also allow you to get every little bit of boost out of the springs that are inside of it without the gate opening up prematurely. Put "waste gate vacuum diagram" in google images and it should bring up a ton of diagrams you can follow, adding the extra line to the top port on the gate is simple enough and should be done.

edit: ^ likewise, basic maintenance should be top priority with identifying and fixing leaks and such.
 
Last edited:

GSTwithPSI

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Jan 1, 2012
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3,460
Location
SoCal
From your other thread:
Quoting clevr4:
Thanks man. I'll be able to ask more intelligent questions after I check those things in person. But what should my wastegate nipple connect to? And what would be a good fix for my turbo situation? Delete that boost controller and install a electronic one? I always that boost controller was kind of pointless, how would you know what you're setting the boost at? Guy said it was at 18lbs of boost but I've never seen it go over 15 on my gauge. What are the effects of over oiling your turbo? I can understand why under oiling is bad. Thanks for the input



Wastegate top port: It could be vented, or could be routed back to a boost controller. It was more of a question to you, rather than saying it was configured wrong or right.

Turbo situation: First, you need to identify what turbo you have. Take some pictures of the turbo; to include the compressor and turbine housings, as well as the compressor wheel. Post the pictures up so we can help you ID what you have. After we figure out what turbo you have, we can tell you what type of oil supply it needs.

Manual boost controller: Just pick up a Hallman Pro. The are cheap and work great. To set the MBC, you just guess and check. You turn it all the way down, and then crank it up slowly until you reach the desired boost level. You'll need an accurate boost gauge for this process.

Turbo oiling: Ryan (prove_it) pretty much summed it up in his post in your fuel rail thread. Bottom line, you need to ensure you're oiling system is properly supplying your turbo.

Don't be afraid to ask dumb questions. As long as you're humble to suggestions, and willing to learn, there are tons of people here willing to help. Also, as Ryan suggested, post up some more pictures of your setup. Pictures will tell us more than anything you can type here.
 

clevr4

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Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
Okay so I got fuel rail, started to repair the problem but run into another. It seems I don't need -6 AN fittings. Any idea what I have? And if so do they make adapters? Another this is. On the fpr side of rail the adapter you sugvested doesn't fit. Works fine on the first injector side. Kind of pissed I can't get this thing thrown together tonight. I guess you learn not to listen to everyone's advice and find out on your own.
20150319_191052_zps028ys9wp.jpg
[/url][/img]
 

clevr4

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Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
Do they make adapters for -6 to another soze? Or will I have to buy all new fittings or replace my whole lines with -6. This is highly frustrating. What to do about the long end of the rail? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
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4,201
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Sioux Falls, SD
Try the fitting on the other end. One end has the bolt holes spread farther apart.
 

clevr4

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Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
I know, but what am I to do with this end? And my fpr has a fittING that's way larger than -6. So I will need some adaper to get back hooked up
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Where did the black fitting come from? Post some pics of the all you got too.
 

clevr4

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Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
An fittings direct. I need a bigger size though, -6 won't fit my current setup from pump to rail..
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
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Mar 5, 2001
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10,964
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Michigan
The black fitting end looks like the end of the fitting that inserts into the hose. What's on the other end?
 

clevr4

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Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
The black fitting is a -6 45 degree. I held it next to it to get what size I actually need. What is the blue compared to the black? Blue is bigger and black is -6. Do they make adapters from let's say -6 to -8 or 10?
 

clevr4

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Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
I guess this is better picture
20150319_191010_zpsgfpveshl.jpg
[/url][/img]
 
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