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Re: New owner- ?/1000 Summit white from Colorado


highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1166624 posted 04/07/14 10:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I was finally able to tear the car apart today. I removed the transmission and found my clutch and tob to be in bad shape. The fingers on the pressure plate are worn and uneven. Throwout bearing was complete trash and I don't understand why it wasn't making any noise. Disk was worn and a bit glazed. Flywheel looks to be ok-ish and I'm having it machined in the morning. I should have the clutch issues completely resolved upon reassembly.

Ran into a few snags.. I spent about an hour per side just removing the upper eccentric on the lower struts. Never struggled with them like this and I have removed more than I could ever count. It was bs. Found my one of my two trans mount bracket bolts to be cross threaded badly, will need to be re threaded. One of my lower transfer case bolts is helicoiled poorly. My reverse switch was not plugged in due to a damaged socket, it will need replaced to plug it in. My brake master cylinder is leaking, didn't even notice it till I was removing my ac compressor and lines. Also I found a hand full of bolts that don't belong to this car being used in random locations. And it looks like my water pipe on the front of the block leaks ever so slightly where the pipe goes into the water pump housing. It seeps slowly down and ends up hanging a drip off of the oil cooler/filter adapter, it makes it look like the oil cooler is leaking lightly and kinda freaked me out. In the month or so the car has been parked in the same bay in my shop and hasn't dripped any fluids at all amazingly.

I spent 10 solid hours on it today and made some good progress. Got the engine bay much cleaner on the pass side and firewall also. Just a few more weeks and I'll have it back running like a champ. Here are some pics I snapped while working on it today including before and after cleaning the tranny and one of it from Saturday with a 55 bel air that actually caught on fire in the shop later that day.







Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (70.196.198.33) | Report this post to a Moderator

G
obsessed with the turds of others
486/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1166633 posted 04/07/14 10:36 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sounds like a hot mess. Hope you got a good deal on it.



www.japanesenostalgiccar.com
www.nostalgic.co.jp


Edited by G (04/07/14 10:37 PM)

Posts: 8786 | From: zompton | Member Since: 02/24/04 | IP: (2605:a000:1402:6) | Report this post to a Moderator

coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1166634 posted 04/07/14 10:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
good to get some progress in!



1226/2000

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highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1166636 posted 04/07/14 11:04 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting G:

Sounds like a hot mess. Hope you got a good deal on it.




Hot mess... Yes sir. Good deal... Well she sure looks nice

And yes it is good to get some progress in. Feels nice. I've had a whole lot of inspiration from the-underdog aka Turbo Tom . Infact I've almost followed his videos step by step it seems like. Including but not limited to polishing my exhaust tips and cleaning every lil nook and cranny etc!

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (70.196.198.33) | Report this post to a Moderator

highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1166808 posted 04/08/14 10:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well I had to cheap out on my clutch do to insufficient funds. Got and exedy pro-kit OE replacement pressure plate and disk. Had the flywheel cut and stepped to .609 exactly by Clutch Dr. I don't plan on putting down any more than 240whp/tq anytime soon so this should be adequate for the time being. Clutch was delivered to my shop and flywheel was machined in the back of the clutch Dr truck on site. Cost me $170 for everything. The machinist was very knowledgeable and knew a lot about the car/drivetrain surprisingly. He did say that my flywheel was done for after this clutch though. I tried to find an OE replacement flywheel through my suppliers and came up empty handed after multiple phone calls. At least I can get one more round out of this flywheel and I'm not stuck trying to find one yet. Now I just need to get the clutch and trans back in and figure out if I need to shim my pivot ball before my boss has an aneurism from my car occupying a bay for so long.



VR4 677/1000-rebadged. AKA Charlie the turbo slut DD


Edited by highrpm666 (04/13/14 09:30 PM)

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (50.183.82.231) | Report this post to a Moderator

G
obsessed with the turds of others
486/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1166809 posted 04/08/14 10:18 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I meant a lot of things wrong with it. Looks real clean though.



www.japanesenostalgiccar.com
www.nostalgic.co.jp

Posts: 8786 | From: zompton | Member Since: 02/24/04 | IP: (2605:a000:1402:6) | Report this post to a Moderator

boostback
Junior Member
1039/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1166848 posted 04/09/14 08:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Very clean car best of luck getting it running soon. Wish I could say that about mine.



1039 of 2000

Posts: 25 | From: Bossier City LA | Member Since: 03/28/14 | IP: (173.218.184.98) | Report this post to a Moderator

boostback
Junior Member
1039/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1166849 posted 04/09/14 08:20 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Beautiful car. Best of luck getting it running soon.



1039 of 2000

Posts: 25 | From: Bossier City LA | Member Since: 03/28/14 | IP: (173.218.184.98) | Report this post to a Moderator

highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1166963 posted 04/09/14 06:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Look what I got! A big thanks to the previous owner of 677/1000 for hooking me up with this badge! It's sad that the real 677 is dead and rusted out, but it's pretty neat knowing she was a summit white w/sunroof also.




Edited by highrpm666 (01/11/15 11:18 PM)

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (2600:100e:b02d:7) | Report this post to a Moderator

highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1167850 posted 04/16/14 10:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The good:
Today was a big day. I installed the new rear main and re sealed the oil pan. Pulled the manifold and turbo and replaced all crush washers and oil drain gaskets, removed the turbo to manifold stud in favor of a bolt and notched the drivers side of the manifold for easier removal in the future. Installed the clutch, t.o.b, fork and pivot ball which ended up needing a 1.3mm shim all said and done.

Its sitting again till I get a day off to install the new timing belt, b.s. belt, idlers and tensioner, cams seals and water pump, wheels bearings and tie rods.

The bad:
I was very shocked when I found a valve spring retainer lock in my oil pan along with some other large debris. Nothing was recognizable but the retainer. So now I'm in for a bit more work if that lock actually popped out.

Im curious, I haven't had my valve cover off yet too see. Are the retainers visible after just removing the valve cover or will I need to pull the cams?

Sorry no pics from today, I was way to "in the zone" to snap any.

And I was also curious if anyone knew off the top of their head.. when installing the pass side 4 bolt gusset/bracket back under the car do the longer bolts go in the front or rear holes?


Edited by highrpm666 (04/20/14 12:19 AM)

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (2600:100e:b020:6) | Report this post to a Moderator

highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1168176 posted 04/19/14 07:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Today I was able to get a bit of time to remove the valve cover and inspect the valve retainers/locks. I confirmed that all of the locks are installed. I was very worried about it. It appears my head has been freshly rebuilt also. Upon obtaining the car one of the first things I noticed was how clean the head was compared to the block and intake manifold. Im not sure how long ago it was done but it looks to be fairly recent.

Here is the pesky lil guy I found in the oil pan when doing the rear main etc.

I am very relieved that all the locks are in place but at the same time im extremely curious how this ended up in the pan. Is this not a valve retainer lock? It sure looks like one to me.

So now she is almost ready to drive home. Just gotta do the timing belts and components, front wheel bearings and tie rods, align it and go take an emissions test. From there its a matter of getting the plates on and breaking in the clutch. Im so excited to drive my first vr4!

Not sure if it will be safe to rev with the b16g on a bone stock car but I should be able to drive her back and forth to work safely while I break in the clutch and work out the kinks.


Edited by highrpm666 (05/24/16 12:24 AM)

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (2600:100e:b020:6) | Report this post to a Moderator

G
obsessed with the turds of others
486/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1168186 posted 04/19/14 09:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It probably fell down one of the oil passages. They can be a pita when removing valve train parts manually while the head is on the block.



www.japanesenostalgiccar.com
www.nostalgic.co.jp

Posts: 8786 | From: zompton | Member Since: 02/24/04 | IP: (64.233.172.98) | Report this post to a Moderator

highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1168276 posted 04/21/14 03:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I just dont understand why someone would machine and clean the head up and then proceed to replace the guide seals with the head on the block. It was probably done earlier and they then realized it needed a head gasket or something.

Painted the valve cover today. Came out ok. Clear coated it also.



VR4 677/1000-rebadged. AKA Charlie the turbo slut DD

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (2600:100e:b020:6) | Report this post to a Moderator

G
obsessed with the turds of others
486/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1168324 posted 04/21/14 09:36 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It could have fell down 2 owners back. He may have replaced the valve seals or something.



www.japanesenostalgiccar.com
www.nostalgic.co.jp

Posts: 8786 | From: zompton | Member Since: 02/24/04 | IP: (2605:a000:1402:6) | Report this post to a Moderator

highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1168629 posted 04/23/14 09:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Replaced the timing belt, b.s. belt, idler, tensioner pulleys, hyd tensioner, water pump, valve cover gasket today. Had a heck of a time tensioning the timing belt, what a rediculous headache inducing procedure. I have both of the special tools too. Took me 6 tries to get it within spec. Ended up using the method from the vfaq. The mitsu/alldata method just didn't work for me at all. This was my first 4g63 timing belt job. Upon re assembly I found my lower timing cover to be warped and rubbing things in a bad way. It will need replaced before I can run or drive it. It was making some pretty bad noises when I fired it up. I cleaned it all up for nothing. Bummer. It was really nice to actually fire her up though. Ran like a champ other than the whirring noises from my lower cover. Only ran the engine for a few minutes to avoid damaging any new timing components. I'm going to re tension the belt as it was on the high end of spec. Basically 4.5mm rod extension exactly, going to try to get it in the middle of spec this time. Spent a good deal of time cleaning parts and the engine bay on the timing side. Starting to look nice under the hood finally. Still need to repair some random crispy wiring and figure out what to do with my valve cover vent tube, I just ran a long hose down to the bottom of the engine bay for the time being till I make a catch can.

Just a few more maintenance items to resolve and she will be a roadworthy vr4 once again!



VR4 677/1000-rebadged. AKA Charlie the turbo slut DD

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (70.196.197.96) | Report this post to a Moderator

highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1168630 posted 04/23/14 09:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Only two pics today.. was too frustrated with the tensioning procedure to snap many




VR4 677/1000-rebadged. AKA Charlie the turbo slut DD

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (2600:100e:b01a:6) | Report this post to a Moderator

highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1169475 posted 04/28/14 08:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Got to spend the day working on the Galant. Replaced the front wheel bearings and dust seals, inner and outer tie rods and filled up my transmission with some Pennzoil synchromesh. Bled the clutch and adjusted the pedal rod too. Adjusted my lower timing cover a bit to minimize the rubbing also. I have a brand new lower cover on the way from jnz along with hardware to be safe. And then the best thing ever happened, I started the car and it went into gear. All of them infact. I then pulled the car out of the shop under its own power and proceeded to put about ten miles of slow driving on it. It was amazing and I still cannot wipe the grin off of my face. Its alive!!!

Then things went south. I parked it and lifted it back up to check for leaks or anything out of the ordinary and found nothing. Tight and dry. I let it cool off a bit as all the new gaskets were smoking off pretty good and then started it again for another quick drive and it was misfiring badly and the cel came on. I immedietly pulled the upper timing cover and put her at tdc, all good there. Found a freshly broken wire to my fan switch and one of the temp sensors. Repaired the wires and still it was running poorly. I pulled all of the plugs and found one to be way over gapped. Like .070 or so and the others were about .040. Put them all to .028-ish and went over all connections under the hood using the wiggle method. Now it runs good again? I never read the flash codes, just cleared the ecu so I'm unsure what was causing the problem. Hopefully she is OK now.

So second gear does feel notchy and grinds ever so slightly.. Bummer. And it feels low on power, I think it would barely beat my 95 accord. What power it does have comes on very smoothly though. Going to check compression again and pressure test my charge pipes too. I figured a b16g on a stock car would be kinda quick.. Not so much. I didn't rev it over 4 grand and I'm guessing that's where the 16g gets happy, gotta get this clutch broken in nicely first and then I'll romp on it. Maybe its just my imagination and its got power up high.

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (70.208.0.95) | Report this post to a Moderator

coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1169476 posted 04/28/14 08:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Maybe it has some old gas in it? Do you have a boost gauge to verify it's making boost? Perhaps there is a restriction in the system somewhere that is robbing power? How does it idle, maybe boost leaks causing issues?



1226/2000

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highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1169480 posted 04/28/14 09:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
As a matter of fact it does have old 85 octane in it, I don't think the previous owner gave 2 craps about what fuel he used. I do have a brand new boost gauge, not installed yet. It idles great once warm for having no idle control systems hooked up at all. I was really just nervous about getting into the throttle since it has so many new parts installed and un tested. I think maybe the stock exhaust is just too restrictive to let the 16g spool below 4 grand? Once I get a bit more comfortable driving it I will report back about the power situation. I'm actually very nervous about making a pull to redline even once the clutch is broken in. I don't know how lean its going to run with a 16g on an otherwise bone stock car.



VR4 677/1000-rebadged. AKA Charlie the turbo slut DD


Edited by highrpm666 (04/30/14 10:21 PM)

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (70.208.0.95) | Report this post to a Moderator

highrpm666
Member
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1169825 posted 04/30/14 08:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Figured the power issue out. I connected my new boost gauge and I was only reading 6.5 psi. Looked over my vacuum routing again and realized that I had the bcs line and j pipe lines mixed up. Got everything connected and routed properly and now I make 11.5ish psi at about 3400-3600? rpm. Its how the lines were routed when I got the car and I just put them back that way without looking at the underhood diagram closely when I was re assembling everything. Oops

Now it runs like a champ, much quicker than I expected! Its hard to resist and stay out of boost for the new clutch's sake! Drives very smoothly and the boost comes on like a charm. All the numerous old magazine articles and test drives write ups I've read have now come to life. What a great feeling car all around. I'm now very glad I decided on a vr4 instead of a 2.2 turbo legacy or dsm!

She is nearly ready to take on temporary daily driver duty.

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (2600:100e:b014:2) | Report this post to a Moderator

highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1169826 posted 04/30/14 08:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      





VR4 677/1000-rebadged. AKA Charlie the turbo slut DD

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (2600:100e:b014:2) | Report this post to a Moderator

cab222
Junior Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1170332 posted 05/03/14 04:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Kirk the car looks great and it pulls strong for only a b16g. Very thorough work. Everything 100 percent done correct which is nice to see because a lot of these cars I have seen people just half heartedly put things together. This will be the smoothest nicest Japanese car you will ever own. Nice buy and nice work once again.



96 golf gl (dd)
98 jetta vr6turbo (fun car)
06 A4 2.0t (wifes)
#677/1000 vr4 (1st love)

Posts: 34 | From: Golden Co | Member Since: 09/18/07 | IP: (70.196.193.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

Wookalar
ignore this pathetic weasel he's just not worth the time
3/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1170337 posted 05/03/14 05:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting highrpm666:

Figured the power issue out. I connected my new boost gauge and I was only reading 6.5 psi. Looked over my vacuum routing again and realized that I had the bcs line and j pipe lines mixed up. Got everything connected and routed properly and now I make 11.5ish psi at about 3400-3600? rpm. Its how the lines were routed when I got the car and I just put them back that way without looking at the underhood diagram closely when I was re assembling everything. Oops

Now it runs like a champ, much quicker than I expected! Its hard to resist and stay out of boost for the new clutch's sake! Drives very smoothly and the boost comes on like a charm. All the numerous old magazine articles and test drives write ups I've read have now come to life. What a great feeling car all around. I'm now very glad I decided on a vr4 instead of a 2.2 turbo legacy or dsm!

She is nearly ready to take on temporary daily driver duty.






Glad you are getting her sorted out, that chassis looks pretty clean. Any rust in the rockers? Or bottom of the doors?

You never mentioned if you got the water pipe leak fixed but it's just a rubber o-ring holding it in with a 12 or 14mm securing it to the front of the block. You likely got it since you did the water pump and are obviously capable of working on cars.

I was going to say to check vacuum lines cause you should definitely notice a difference with that 16g. If the vacuum lines are old and crusty I would recommend replacing them.

Honestly, the next best upgrades you could do to really notice a gain are a 3" exhaust, rewired walbro fuel pump, and ecmtuning/dsmlink. Then source a cheap fuel pressure regulator and do some tuning. The car will scoot if tuned properly, especially if you throw some 550 injectors in there. But at that point you will want a larger upper IC pipe. And then a larger FMIC. And then a ......

I ran a b16g back in the day with aforementioned mods (minus a FMIC but add a safc) and it made for some good power. If only I had ecmlink back then!

Good job so far.



</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting 89Patches:</font><hr />

Brett gstwithpsi is the nut rider!


<hr /></blockquote><font class="pos


Edited by Wookalar (05/03/14 05:49 PM)

Posts: 458 | From: Arizona USSA | Member Since: 11/27/13 | IP: (24.251.4.211) | Report this post to a Moderator

highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1170524 posted 05/04/14 10:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting cab222:

Kirk the car looks great and it pulls strong for only a b16g. Very thorough work. Everything 100 percent done correct which is nice to see because a lot of these cars I have seen people just half heartedly put things together. This will be the smoothest nicest Japanese car you will ever own. Nice buy and nice work once again.




Thanks for the kind words Chad! I still have a lot of work to do before its up to my standards! And a big thanks again for the dash badge, 677 lives again!



VR4 677/1000-rebadged. AKA Charlie the turbo slut DD


Edited by highrpm666 (01/11/15 11:13 PM)

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (2600:100e:b003:9) | Report this post to a Moderator

highrpm666
Member
677/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1170527 posted 05/04/14 10:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Quoting Wookalar:

Quoting highrpm666:

Figured the power issue out. I connected my new boost gauge and I was only reading 6.5 psi. Looked over my vacuum routing again and realized that I had the bcs line and j pipe lines mixed up. Got everything connected and routed properly and now I make 11.5ish psi at about 3400-3600? rpm. Its how the lines were routed when I got the car and I just put them back that way without looking at the underhood diagram closely when I was re assembling everything. Oops

Now it runs like a champ, much quicker than I expected! Its hard to resist and stay out of boost for the new clutch's sake! Drives very smoothly and the boost comes on like a charm. All the numerous old magazine articles and test drives write ups I've read have now come to life. What a great feeling car all around. I'm now very glad I decided on a vr4 instead of a 2.2 turbo legacy or dsm!

She is nearly ready to take on temporary daily driver duty.






Glad you are getting her sorted out, that chassis looks pretty clean. Any rust in the rockers? Or bottom of the doors?

You never mentioned if you got the water pipe leak fixed but it's just a rubber o-ring holding it in with a 12 or 14mm securing it to the front of the block. You likely got it since you did the water pump and are obviously capable of working on cars.

I was going to say to check vacuum lines cause you should definitely notice a difference with that 16g. If the vacuum lines are old and crusty I would recommend replacing them.

Honestly, the next best upgrades you could do to really notice a gain are a 3" exhaust, rewired walbro fuel pump, and ecmtuning/dsmlink. Then source a cheap fuel pressure regulator and do some tuning. The car will scoot if tuned properly, especially if you throw some 550 injectors in there. But at that point you will want a larger upper IC pipe. And then a larger FMIC. And then a ......

I ran a b16g back in the day with aforementioned mods (minus a FMIC but add a safc) and it made for some good power. If only I had ecmlink back then!

Good job so far.





Hi and thanks! She has been quite the project so far. As for the rust I haven't found anything but the battery tray and a small area underneath it but its all surface rust. There is a very small area on each pinchweld under the rear bumper that I plan to fix asap, its just surface rust at the moment and its difficult to notice. I haven't pulled the front fenders to see the situation there. Im guessing its minimal. Nothing on the rockers/doors whatsoever. It is fairly clean inside and out. It has a few door dings and imperfections you cannot see in the pictures though. The ancient tinting is very ugly too.

Yes I did get the waterpipe sealed. It seems that I've gotten all of the leaks patched up proper. Ive put 130 or so miles on it since I got her running and its clean and dry still.

And thanks for the upgrade advice. Im considering a path very similar to that to start things off. I want a reliable moderately quick car, nothing crazy and total sleeper status. Its going to take me a while to get it completely reliable before I start buying any upgraded parts or doing any mods so I've got time to do my research and make a potent combo of bolt ons etc.

Posts: 117 | From: Morrison, Co | Member Since: 02/19/14 | IP: (2600:100e:b003:9) | Report this post to a Moderator


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