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coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Here I'll add my car to the mix for fun. Just bought it a week or two ago down in Portland, came all stock other than a 1g shifter assembly. Also came with an extra rebuilt (unassembled) short block and a 1g 3" turbo back exhaust. Gonna do some mods here slowly after I go through and do a lot of maintenance. Here's a pic of how it sits now. Car has 163,000 miles, zero rust.








Maintenance and modifications done:

-Timing belt + assorted goodies
-Koyo radiator + hoses + OEM CTS + thermostat
-1g shifter
-3" turboback exhaust w/ magnaflow muffler and high flow cat
-NGK spark plugs
-NGK plug wires
-MTL in transmission
-Cruise control delete



Pretty exciting, I know. Chime in with some additional recommended maintenance and I'll add it to the list.
 
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coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Can anyone give me some information regarding the 1g exhaust? Looks like it needs to be lengthened a little bit. Maybe modify the exhaust hangars? I bought a high flow cat off ebay, so that should take care of the length issue. Just need to know if there is anything else that should be done. Looks simple but I have only done a quick glance.
 

MellowVR4

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Joined
Jul 25, 2009
Messages
1,662
Location
Milwaukee, Wi
I believe a 2g downpipe should do the trick for the extra length you need.
 

coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
I already have a 1g down pipe, it's a full turbo back. Just no cat on it, and I want to stay legal, so using my high flow cat will add the length needed.
 

turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
if i remember right i think you need to add a couple inches to the rear section. but i didnt end up using a 1g exhaust, i made a custom one.

you can do a search... you will find a million posts saying to search...



looks good though, keep us updated!
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
Looks nice, clean behind the quarter panel and front door jambs.
 

coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
I'm on it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

May detail it in the next few days, well see how it turns out.
 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Welp, off to a great start with the Galant. After having the timing belt done, car ran fine for about 50 miles, but started it up earlier and it ran like crap. engine vibrated over 3000k rpms, felt down on power. Brought it back to my mechanic, he said the timing had jumped and the tensioner had failed. So I have ordered another tensioner, I get another one tomorrow. Hopefully it all goes back together tomorrow with no issues, but now I am scared this has damaged my engine. Hopefully not, and hopefully my mechanic is not just an idiot who may have ruined my engine. :bang head: He said the exhaust timing jumped 3 teeth and the oil pump was off 180 degrees...

We will see tomorrow. At least I have another engine to put in it if necessary. May have to start thinking about options for that…

If only I had a garage or workspace right now this would never have been a problem.
 
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GSTwithPSI

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Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,460
Location
SoCal
^Agreed. It's more likely your mechanic tensioned the belt wrong, not that you have a tensioner failing. I've never seen a new tensioner fail right out of the box, even off brand parts store units. In addition, I just don't see how it's possible for the cam to only slip 3 teeth and the oil pump/balance shaft to be out 180. The facts suggest he screwed up the install, and there's no way I'd be paying for another tensioner if I were you.



Quoting G:
Looks nice, clean behind the quarter panel and front door jambs.


Just to clarify, I believe G is referring to clean where the front fender meets the body behind the wheel well. You need to actually remove the front fenders to clean this area. sh*t builds up in there over time, and causes unseen rust issues. You have to remove the fender liners as well, so I'd clean behind them too while they are off.
WP_000202.jpg

WP_000190.jpg
 
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coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
yeah I am pretty sure he just screwed it up. I am hoping there was no damage, but I don't know with that amount of slipping of the belt. :bang head:

I exchanged the part at the parts store, I didn't buy another one. so we will see. and thanks for the info about the fenders, I will get to that eventually, right now I have to wait to see what's going on with my engine. Sucks that I just got this car and it's already screwed up. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

EHmotorsports

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Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,278
Location
Beaverton
ya there is a very specific way to tension the belt properly.
 

BogusSVO

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Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
232
Location
Pensacola, Florida
Sounds like he may have tension the the tensioner pulley in the wrong direction.

50 miles is about what I normally hear when they have been tension in the wrong direction, and the lock bolt becomes loose.

Good chance if it is still running that you may have not bent valves.

Was the Hyd tensioner a OE MD164533 ?
 

desant78

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Messages
732
Location
Clarksboro, NJ
Also, if the oil sprocket is off, no real damaged could occur, just horrible vibrations due to the balance shafts out of alignment. So your only concern here is the condition of the head. Of course with a balance shift elimination, the oil sprocket will not have to be aligned.

Good luck!
 

BogusSVO

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
232
Location
Pensacola, Florida
Trust yourself. This is for a 2g/7 bolt but the 6 bolt is about the same the crank marks are in a different location.

click

Once you read this, it will make more sense.

Add about $80 for specialty tools that make the job that much simpler.

Step #28 I would bet is where the issue is.
 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
The 2g guide says to do it counter clockwise, the 1g guide says go to clockwise… so which is it?
 

BogusSVO

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Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
232
Location
Pensacola, Florida
I go CCW, that way if the bolt loosens, the pulley will move with the belt and tighten up.

Going CW, the belt will kick the pulley and let the belt go slack and skip teeth.
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,460
Location
SoCal
Quoting BogusSVO:
Trust yourself.



^Truth. If you don't get proficient at working on your own car, I promise that you'll probably have more threads like this in the future. You own a 20+ year old car now, and on top of that, these cars have a history of being a pain in the ass. Use the resources here, and the help of the forum members to get the job done. If you don't have a space to work on the car, that's understandable, but I'd do my best to get to know my way around the car to the best of my ability. I guarantee you can handle a timing belt job, and could save that money for mods or whatever. If the mechanic is going to screw things up, you might as well take your chances and screw things up yourself, and at least get the experience. However the job gets done, I hope you get back in it quickly and enjoy the car.
 
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