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Re: building of a ggsx


tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1190065 posted 09/27/14 01:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
All done except for radio and boost guage.


I used these two bolts for the axle carrier bearing bracket. One on right is stock the one on the left is longer but has the same size sholder and says grade 10.9 instead of the stock 7 which I think makes it grade 8? Eitherway the stock bolt was too short as the threads in my block were beat up.



7 1G DSM's now a GGSX build.

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1191114 posted 10/10/14 06:15 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well just a little over a week later the exhaust and transfer case came down again. This time not for leaks but because of drive train noise. It came to my attention that me engine mounts and brackets were in fact very different than manual Galant mounts so I swapped them out. The drive shaft angle is much better and there is significantly less vibration at idle. That's as far as I got. Just put the car on the ground but there are 3 cars behind it in the driveway. Ecmod is tomorrow... I will try to make it out there. I should realy adjust stuff like the ic piping. See what happens.

edit: Swapping the engine mounts made my down pipe hit my rear sub frame. I swapped to an evo 3 o2 housing, but it then hit on the other side. I kept the evo housing and cut a slice in the dp and had it welded.



7 1G DSM's now a GGSX build.


Edited by tektic (12/11/14 08:44 PM)

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1196168 posted 12/11/14 06:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
After swapping engine mounts and having my exhaust adjusted, the first two times I boosted over 20psi the intercooler couplers popped off. Yes it happened twice. I'm going to swap to the solid mount in the rear and hopefully it will elevate that issue.

Any way while reattaching the ic coupler I noticed coolant leaking from my head gasket.

Long story short the engine was torn down to a block and crank and returned to the machine shop for refinishing.

Today I ordered:
-acl oil pump
-acl race main, and rod bearings
-oem stubby shaft
-NPR rings
-B&A lower gasket set
-oil cooler hose and an fittings

I Still need a New Head gasket. I have 3 or 4 composite gaskets from b&a and fel-pro kits. I was considering the Nippon racing MLS Gasket. Seems to be identical to the OEM MLS and around $70 less expensive.

The block was honed and the deck was redone. The crank was polished and 3 valves in the head were lapped. The cam journals were also polished. I should probably have the cams polished too. I will take a closer look at them.

I bought all the stuff to degree my cams correctly when It's time to assemble. Just need to make some solid adjustable lifters.

I dissembled my oil pump today and there was all sorts of things lodged in with the main gear shaft. the casing was slightly worn as were the shafts so I just ordered a new ACL one from extreme psi. Mine was probably still useable but it did show wear.

I need to clean out my ofh and turbo too. A rebuild may or may not be necessary, but I guess it doesn't make sense to take it apart and put the same thrust bearings amd o-rings back in. I have to buy a new oil feed line for it and a new oil cooler also. I managed to mangled my oil pan trying to get it off. "The right stuff" wouldn't budge for almost 40 min of banging prying and cutting. I'm going to weld a fitting on there so I don't have to deal with a leaking turbo return any more.

Anything I'm missing?



7 1G DSM's now a GGSX build.


Edited by tektic (12/11/14 10:23 PM)

Posts: 1365 | From: ronkonkoma, ny | Member Since: 12/19/12 | IP: (172.56.18.76) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1196208 posted 12/12/14 08:47 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Everyone always knocks using oil pan gaskets, but what you've just described is exactly one of the reasons I like them. I've always had good luck with them, and it makes the pan much easier to remove if it ever has to come off. I know it's not everyday you need to drop the oil pan on your car, but when you do, it can be a bastard to get off sometimes.

I was hoping to see this thing at East Coast MOD. Hopefully you can get things sorted out in time for next year. Good work thus far though!



820/1000
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1813/2000-SOLD

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1199410 posted 01/22/15 11:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I got all my parts back from the shop. Spent the last 5 hours cleaning stuff and I'm no where close to done. Therese a very protestant black silty mess stuck to everything. I was inspecting the head and it was not as clean as it could have been. The dirtiest part was where the lifters seat. Those bores seemed to have been completely over looked. The drain trails leading to the block needed some cleaning too. Therese no way I'm having this thing get contaminated and fail again. I need to swap in the weak springs to do the cam degreeing but other than the the head is now ready to assemble.

I still need a fly wheel and probably piston rings. I ordered a set but I don't think they are the right material. I sent an email over to npr hopefully they can give me the info I need.

So to recap, GeeGee is on the road to a contaminant free future. thats all for now. More cleaning to do!



7 1G DSM's now a GGSX build.

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BENE38A
Slanging Kiwi parts


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1199413 posted 01/23/15 02:51 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
knock out all that lose casting flash while your in there



1991 Mitsubishi Galant vr4 RS

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1199424 posted 01/23/15 08:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I did my best to do that before I sent it back, but a found a few chunks to knock off this time too.

The only Valve spring tool I have is the leisel hammer spring compressor. It seems as if the grips on the outer cylinder are going to rip up the metal to the side of the spring if I use it.

Edit: New OTC 4572 valve tool on order. Also made some solid lifters for testing.

New gasket for hla pressure regulator

This was a bitch to do. Wish I had a part number for this gasket.


Edited by tektic (01/24/15 01:45 PM)

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BENE38A
Slanging Kiwi parts


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1199573 posted 01/24/15 03:40 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I didn't think there was a gasket there?



1991 Mitsubishi Galant vr4 RS

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1199606 posted 01/24/15 08:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      


New ones do. I don't think its available separately though. Unless there's a secret part number list I don't know about. I asked two different dealers to look it up. Both told me it was only available as an assembly.



7 1G DSM's now a GGSX build.


Edited by tektic (01/24/15 08:39 PM)

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1200281 posted 01/31/15 09:54 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well I was all ready to install my crank and rods when I noticed something odd. I put my freshly cleaned block on a freshly cleaned bench and noticed the appearance of black crumbs. After inspecting it further it was flashing material from the casting crumbling away. After almost 5 hours of scraping, grinding, and sanding, the block is out to be jet washed again. The casting is still rough but I did my best to make sure its not flaking off anywhere. This dark black sand like material is what I believe to be the debris that killed my new bearings last time around. Most of what was scraped off wasn't even magnetic. The parts that were most accessible at the bottom I smoothed up a little nicer to aid oil return.


This is what it looked like when I was just about done. Half the block had minimal flashing and casting flak but the other half was horrendous. Crumbs could be removed with your fingernail before. Almost every surface was hit with a carbide. I'm considering the idea of por15 on the inside of the block if it comes back from the jet wash rusted. But probably not. I took this time to polish the oil passages on the outside of the block more as well.


Edited by tektic (01/31/15 10:12 AM)

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1208719 posted 05/19/15 09:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
After much procrastination I am dressing the reassembled engine. Exhaust studs were a problem today. I had 2 strip out on me. I ended up only torquing to 16# after the repairs. 18-22 is too high for this tiredold aluminum head. I used the same vw studs cut to length for the repairs. Took way longer than I'd like to report but its done well.

My intake was pretty dirty but figured it would be a waste to bother cleaning it as it would get filthy again in short order. I wiped it down and bolted it on along with the throttle body turbo hot side and all the timing stuff. Its nowhere near as clean as the first go around. Its too late for that noise.

Waiting on injector o-rings and will pick up a new flywheell locally. I'm still debaiting weather or not a new turbo oil feed line is necessary or not. What do you think?
<strike>What type of paint can be used on the inside of an oil pan?</strike> going to strip it bare wire wheel the welds and rub oil on it. Don't want to risk the contamination.


Edited by tektic (05/23/15 09:54 AM)

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thomcasey
I ain't no puny human
1025/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1208728 posted 05/20/15 07:05 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Try this stuff the the inside of the oil pan.

Jafro Glyptol application video



Thom
1991 GVR-4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's)

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1209412 posted 06/03/15 12:01 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So GeGee once again has an engine!


I adressed many issues while she was apart.

Clutch problems:
I swaped shift forks with one that measured a little thicker at the forked end. I removed the 2.6mm washer that was shiming the pivot ball and I am now using a act street light flywheel.

Decel noise:
I now believe I have all the corect mounts brackets and crossmembers for an awd manual Galant.

Turbo oil return leak:
This is what I came up with.



Leaking water pipe was taped and plugged, and all the engine issues I had were hopefully all taken care of. I'm going to prime the engine oil with a hand pump after I finish assembly. I hope to be done by the weekend.

Also had this made:

It's a prototype bracket adaptor for a wilwood clutch master in place of the nabco unit.

Edit: 6/6/15
Got almost everything under the hood connected this week. Wired in a plug for my gauges and did my radio harness. Few more little things under the hood and then I will add fluids and start her up.


Edited by tektic (06/05/15 11:11 PM)

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1209744 posted 06/08/15 09:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
She is running! And what's more the clutch works properly to boot.

Slightly worysome is the presence of valve train noise, it is out of time by a few degrees. Id like to say its just noisy lifters in the garage with no hood but idk. I had the timeing light on her but pretty sure it has to be fully warmed up before the ground plug works. Now that I think about it I may have had my data log cable pluged in. I know that keeps it correcting timing advance.

Question: what's the best way to get the air out of the cooling system? I was able to get in about 1/2 of a gallon and then filled the overflow. The block is still empty so the thermostat isn't opening. I have a DSM rad and therm housing.

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thomcasey
I ain't no puny human
1025/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1209765 posted 06/09/15 09:06 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I always remove the thermostat and fill the block first from there until it starts to flow out of the upper hose. Then I install the thermostat and tighten the housing. Then fill the system the rest of the way up using this. Spill Free Funnel

This will allow the system to burk and the block will almost be all the way full too.



Thom
1991 GVR-4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's)

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1209766 posted 06/09/15 09:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sounds like a much better way to do it. Thank you.



7 1G DSM's now a GGSX build.

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iceman69510
Turn Right Racing
855/2000
828/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1209768 posted 06/09/15 09:51 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I have never had issues filling the block. As soon as the water pump is operating it should circulate water. I do also run with the rad cap off to burp as mentioned above.



91 VR4 855 Nile Black
92 VR4 828 Belize Green-Daily driver status
91 VR4 115 Nile Black -SOLD

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1209796 posted 06/09/15 10:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      

I don't remember having this filling issue last time. This time I only had the front of the car on jack stands when last time she was up on all 4 corners. When I put her back on ground she drank another 1/2 gallon. Everything seemed to be fin after that. The heater was blowing hot and the coolant was also flowing through the rad.

Valve train noise went away. It was just the Lifters. They must all be pumped up now.

So I Drove her around the lake today but when I was going down hill she started to smoke. It happened twice in the same spot but nowhere else. My initial thought was it was some sort of cooling over charge, but it turned out to be oil dumping on the exhaust heat shield. I assumed it was from the valve cover and thoroughly cleaned and resealed it with a different gasket and black rtv. It was a lot of oil. I have never seen that much spill out of a valve cover before. I only used some "right stuff" in the corners on the cover side of the gasket. Nothing on the head side. If it wasn't the valve cover I don't know how it would make its way to the top of the motor like that. The only other likely place would be the exhaust stud that goes to the oil return in the head. That stud was so tight I couldn't remove it when installing the manifold, so I assumed I used locktight on it. Good news is the turbo oil return is not leaking!

I cleaned up the oil the best I could painted the cowl and wiper arms and am now waiting till tomorrow for the black rtv to set up. I'll give it another go in the am.

The logger plug was in and thats why she wouldn't go in to timing mode. Pulled the plug and got it in today. Is it supposed to be 5* or 10* ? I'd assume its the one with the big T under it, correct? Getting a little idle surge too will try to get that ironed out tomorrow.

Here's the interior as of present:

The afr read out in the ash tray is a volt meter connected to my Lc-1. It's on the secondary out put and set up so the voltage is ~ the Lambda reading. It's a general idea of A/f ratio for $5. The Lc-1 led is in the ash tray. If i need to check the status I can open it and look. Not accurate enough to tune off of but good enough to know I'm not going to blow something up. pro sport gauge is fuel pressure and is not hooked up. I don't have a place to tap the sender with the stock fuel set up. That's the radio that came with the car. The stock wiring was cut and the radio harness was connected to the car when I got it. I restored the cars female connectors and made a suitable harness for the radio. I used an 8 pin GM connector to make the gauge pod plug and play. I really want to make a nice on dash gauge pod with carbon fiber or just fiberglass but that will have to wait for now.


Edited by tektic (10/04/15 12:43 PM)

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1211973 posted 07/10/15 07:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
~300 miles on second rebuild. Oil is seeping from the new head gasket in the front left corner...
Pretty sure I'm done this time.

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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1211974 posted 07/10/15 07:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've been there, dude...Sorry to hear that.

Any idea what happened?



820/1000
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1813/2000-SOLD

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1211979 posted 07/10/15 07:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Its possible it is residual from the valve cover leak I had, but I'm not that optimistic.

The block and head were impeccably clean, head was torqued to 90 foot pounds. Did not overheat. No rivets are contacting any surface.

I guess its just shit machine work. I just don't know. The head was smooth the block was not as. New Mls gasket. Wish I just used a graphite one. Or that holomer I was talking about.

What should oil pressure top out at?

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1215892 posted 09/03/15 05:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
MitsuGary came by this morning to help dignose some drive train noise. Sugjested I get a welded viscus cupling to discern wether it has to do with the transfer case or something inside the trans. No better answer for me... Was kind of bummed.

But then this happens.


I went and pulled my I entire interior, shampooed and powerwashed my carpet and then dyed it. After that I cleaned the nasty shit form under the center console and carpet. Then I started cutting things.

With those notches, a couple holes and hours later:

No more smelly interior. I'm going to get some new carpet padding and some black interior paint and should have it buttoned up tomorrow.

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1216288 posted 09/11/15 12:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
And.... The dash is black.

Some temp racing seats installed.

This is how I made them fit.




Edited by tektic (09/11/15 12:40 PM)

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217699 posted 10/01/15 01:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
800 miles
Black interior swap is complete with vr4 door cards.
Added an oil cooler fixed a couple small oil leaks.
First oil change. Oil in the pan was clean although there was a silver tinge to the oil that came out of the filter. Not the best sign but not worth pulling the engine for.

Here's the cooler

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tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1217843 posted 10/03/15 06:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Drove 300 miles today without a glitch.

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