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Re: New Owner of #1899/2000


minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1119916 posted 04/24/13 08:07 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
kama1 - That's cool your mom grows orchids. My mom does too, but I do it on another level. I'll let you know if I ever go to Pinoy land. Be prepared to hook me up with some parts though. Love your build thread too.


Got a call from Archer this morning saying that I passed the boost leak test and my timing is off by one tooth at the crank. We had a feeling that the car ran like shit by being off a tooth, but cased closed. Alternator belt was way too loose, so they got the tension up to spec as well. We were a little afraid to fry the alternator, but it appears to be fine. Waiting on a new OEM tensioner to come in. My buddy accidentally broke the pin on the first one and we reused the second tensioner after I bent the valves on the old head. Archer recommended that tensioners should not be reused from race experience. Probably looking at a 4 hour job on re-timing and throw in a few more for the other stuff I mentioned.

I also talked with them about a 5 lug swap and they recommended buying all new assemblies to make things easier to work on in the future. This sounds like a good idea, so I am heavily considering this. Car should be ready mid-next week.



#1899/2000 - W09 A71 (1/111)

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Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.142.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

blacksheep
Baraqsheep
205/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1119917 posted 04/24/13 08:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Archer Racing? They still in business? Man, I have not heard them being mentioned in such a long time!



1992 Galant VR-4. 205/1000. Nile Black. Sunroof.

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minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1119942 posted 04/24/13 10:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Fuck yeah they're in business. Pretty much all Vipers now after the discontinuation of the DSMs in '99. I've seen Dr. Panoz's personal vehicle being serviced. I think it was an Esperante. The veteran mechanic said he preferred to work on the DSMs. Pretty cool cars that roll through. Not much of a tuner scene, but they are the go-to guys in Duluth. John Archer wanted to sell me all the DSM shit they got for $12,000. It's nice they got tons of old and new OEM shit I can pick through. It makes me feel like American Pickers. I can get the stuff for dirt cheap sometimes because cash is king! They have saved my ass a few times with parts I needed, so much thanks to them. Most of the good stuff is long gone though. I'm glad you know your shit blacksheep. And to think this shop is local to me. If only this was the 90's. I would have been in the primo location for DSM performance. The wins speak for themselves.



#1899/2000 - W09 A71 (1/111)

Build Thread


Edited by minneSNOWta (05/11/14 03:55 PM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.142.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1123034 posted 05/12/13 12:22 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Good and bad news.

The shop fixed my timing, oil return leak at the pan, cross-threaded bolt on north/south bar (driver's side), topped off coolant, flush/filled diff, missing control arm bolt (driver's side), and a bunch of loose bolts (from when I worked on it last). The idle settled way down and was hunting between 1200 and 1400rpms. They said it was probably ISC, but they didn't have one laying around. Had my buddy Charles drive it home since I am a beginner at stick and didn't want/know how to deal with the idling issue. He's a truck and crotch rocket guy, so I thought that he would be a good guy to bring her back. Me and my roommate have been nagging him to get a tuner for no reason. Anyways, off it went for the first time since the bent valves mishap. It felt good to see it driving from behind. Hahahaha.

Car had a check engine light, which was odd. I had checked the codes since I last tinkered with the G and nothing came up. Something was not right. When it got home I got my computer out to see what was wrong. Three MAF related codes pop up. I have seen this before. The guys at the shop did not plug my MAF back in. Plugged her back in, still idle hunted, but we took her out anyways while warm just to make sure things were proper.

So began the test drive/break-in with me in the passenger seat. Well off the bat my buddy Charles says that the car drives much better. We both have smiles on our faces. I have Link up and running to check out the basic display features on a stream. Things seemed normal. It was kind of misting out, but we had the windows down and damn can you hear the EIII whistling. Awesome. The stock BOV can be heard quite well also. Awesome. We did some light throttle pulls and engine decel for quite a bit. In between shift the rpms like to stay high instead of drop unless Charles blips the throttle and it unsticks. Got the car back on the 61 Express back into Duluth. A truck was coming in hot and Charles looks at me and tells me this fool is not getting by. With just a little bit of throttle we were boosting wastegate pressure and boy you can tell this car will be a beast. About 20 miles on that run. Seeing my buddy smiling and laughing was fun. Now I need to feel that myself once I fix some things.

A week went by with the car sitting and I tried to start up the car when some friends stopped by. Checked the base settings on link and I had the 450s selected with 2G MAF. The car had 560s installed. Changed the setting in hopes the car would idle better, but it was idling high in the 2K range. Felt uneasy to take it out again, so started to take the 1G turbo TB off. What the fuck? Going to get my spare N/T TB rebuilt by Steve Monroe. Chose Steve because he puts himself out there as a stand up guy. Some of the other companies don't have a face to them. I also have something bad ass coming in the mail as a "while I'm at it" upgrade.

Still need the power steering rack capped off with the Earls AN fittings and caps. Noticed that the car is leaking a little oil at the oil return again and some at the oil cooler line fittings on the OFH. Need to go over the car again for leaks. High idle could possibly also be power steering not being hooked up and ABS (needs to be unplugged).



#1899/2000 - W09 A71 (1/111)

Build Thread

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.142.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1124111 posted 05/18/13 10:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Got my N/T TB back from Steve Monroe. Sent my TB out Monday and got it back today.

Worksheet:
*Inspect
*Disassemble
*Clean & bead bast TB & parts
*High PSI air blast media removal from all openings/follow-up probe of openings
*Paint all steel parts
*Taper/polish thick lip of TB entrance (Did not bore to 65mm)
*Chase BISS screw threads & install new BISS screw & o-ring
*Install & lube shaft seals (Upgraded to "Uber Seals good to 40 psi for precaution)
*Install throttle plate
*Loctite throttle plate screws
*Install throttle level assembly
*Install FIAV using new o-ring gasket, screws, & washers
*Test sensors (ISC & TPS replaced)
*Test throttle plate for smooth operation

The revised ISC I had on the old TB was internally corroded. The TPS was replaced too, but he didn't specify why. Both sensors are warrantied for a year. I also got four correct-length bolts and a new non-OEM gasket supplied by Steve. Chose not to delete FIAV with block off plate. If it turns out to be an issue later, then I will do the VFAQ free-mod. Looks very nice.















Decided to take a huge, but much needed step and removed the stock intercooler setup. Taking off the front bumper was a pain due to a few broken bolts. One of the previous owners tried to take it off before and must have gave up after shearing bolts. One of the two thick bolts removed from top. Thanks for that... Well after some dremeling, we got the bumper off. Both fog lights had every screw stripped and rusted, so we had to dremel the side bracket to get them out. I got one bracket off on the PS side, but sheared two out of the three bolts. God damn it. I'm going to let my buddy do the other side. He seems to have broken less bolts than me.

The oil cooler leaks a bit, so that's why I have the towel there. I will drain the oil and make sure everything is nice and tight before the oil cooler gets sandwiched. The oil cooler should not be the same size as the intercooler though. Aiyahhh...


Comparing said aiyahhh intercooler to my moon boot. Aiyahhh...

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.142.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1124430 posted 05/20/13 09:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Got a giant package in the mail. Came with the extra coupler needed to work with the N/T TB and they removed the elbow flange. BOV flange is for GReddy. Decided to get the intercooler anodized classy and sleeper. Couldn't get gloss black to go with my whole theme, but the wrinkle black piping is still very nice. It is supposed to be more durable, which is why they got rid of the gloss option. Robert was great to work with and even gave me a little discount. Thanks so much. Hacking to come. No turning back now...





Edited by minneSNOWta (05/20/13 09:49 PM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.142.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

pot
It's a twee shaker----choot him choot him
182/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1124440 posted 05/20/13 11:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I Like the first picture, has the leading edge vibe going on. Is that an ETS unit? Good stuff mang. Also, good bet on Steve Monroe. He puts other throttle body restorers to shame.



182/1000

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minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1124520 posted 05/21/13 04:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks Pot. Yes, it is an ETS kit. I chose not to stencil it either.



#1899/2000 - W09 A71 (1/111)

Build Thread

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.142.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1159791 posted 02/14/14 05:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Lots of updates to come, but I am way behind again.

Back in July, I got the ETS kit installed to the NA TB without a hitch after Robert at ETS relocated the BOV for me. Installed a used GReddy RS recirculated BOV to the new location and am using a Home Depot spa hose for the recirc tube. The tube is somewhat ghetto and it bothers me a lot. Will probably try to get a metal recirc pipe made and use couplers on both ends.

Also, tried to fix my leaking oil cooler setup by using Permatex thread sealant for oil and tightening it all down. Relocated it too, so it wouldn't be behind the new intercooler. Had to remove the A/C fan, which I forgot to mention earlier because the lines for the oil cooler kit wouldn't reach to the passenger side. Gets decent flow from the grille area now.



Took the car out late July for a shakedown. Had my buddy Charles do the driving again. He took it easy for about 30 or 40 miles doing break-in because the car is still not tuned yet, just a base tune from link. Like I mentioned before, I can't drive manual yet. My friends convinced me to take the car down a few mile flat stretch to try to learn a little. Killed the car a few times, but no bucking really. Felt so good to be able to drive my car for the first time since I've owned it. That feeling is priceless. Got nervous, so my other friend Moses took the car for a spin. He got on it a little bit once the freeway opened up to see what she was made out of and that's when this story goes south. The BOV purged at 4K rpms and then white smoke starting pouring out the hood. Limped the car back a few miles and cars behind us must have been worried.

The head gasket must have blown... Oil was all up under the hood and pooled up in the VC area. Everything I had cleaned had become dirty once more. This is not what I was expecting. Opened up the radiator cap and cappuccino was all up in it.


Started breaking everything down to replace the OEM MLS with a 1.2mm HKS head gasket. Had the head sent in to Miller Hill Machine Shop for checking and resurfacing. The head was off .004. Before putting everything back in, my other Matt friend cut off part of the power steering bracket that gets in the way of the exhaust manifold, so I can drop down the head with everything connected on top of the studs. No contact issues anymore and probably no exhaust leak since the head can sit square with the larger casting of the Evo III mani. I believe the 2G and EIII mani are thicker flanged on the far right side. There must have been an exhaust leak from that area because carbon deposits had accumulated.


More to come later once I get reorganized. Still months behind on updates though.

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.154.24) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1160006 posted 02/15/14 08:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Here's a pic of the ETS kit installed. Also, I got OEM AMG corners and had them wired up by my buddy Charles to replace the Curtis corners because I got a RS Evolution Spec bumper. It also clears the intercooler nicely.



Replaced every single vacuum line minus the brake booster hose with blue silicone from SiliconeIntakes.com. RRE could not get a kit for me in blue anymore. Ordered as a general kit. Also, replaced all the coolant hoses with a kit for 1G DSM from RTM. Since the radiator hoses are for 1G DSM, I had to trim the hose a bit going to the t-stat housing. Have yet to put on the lower, but I am assuming it might need to be trimmed as well to fit. Lastly for hoses, I replaced the windshield washer ones with new clear hose. You can see where I have the BOV and recirc tube located too.



Had my Mitsubishi valve cover restored since it was ruined by a shitty sandblaster. Ordered up a new laser cut baffle from Kevin Kovatch, a freelancer on DSMTuners and owner of CompWorks. My buddy Matt took the old baffle out and had his work do the cleaning, blasting, welding in of baffle, and re-coat. Turns out they did a bad job welding in the baffle once I went to test-fit. Since there was contact with the cams, I had to order another baffle and have someone else do the work properly. Sent the valve cover to Detective Coatings and they did an excellent job removing the poorly welded baffle and put in another one. After another coating of gloss white and some polishing of the letters, I am very happy with the outcome. Replaced the Bonehead oil cap with the Evo cap and I like it.





HKS 1.2mm Stopper head gasket. This was a pretty spendy item, so I hope it will help.



This is from a while ago, but thought I would mention it. Since I am using the 2G O2 housing, the NTK oxygen sensor I'm using gets in the way of the lower heat shield. Took a small notch out to clear.



GReddy radiator cap to replace the old OEM one.



RS Evolution front bumper. I wasn't planning on getting one so early, but it just happened to be available on ebay shortly after my buddies helped me trim the crash support on the USDM bumper. Will get the most flow to the intercooler, which I consider an upgrade and it's light. I didn't cut the slats out of the USDM and I will not cut the slats on the RS either. Love me some slats. Bumper is in pretty nice shape too and no cracked end caps, just a bunch of tape residue. Need to get the fogs wired up as well. My buddy Charles should be helping me on that. Picked up some JDM brackets from Curtis, which are very nice. I couldn't get a wider shot of the bumper since my garage is cramped, so these are just teasers. The look of the black intercooler against the black slats will really keep it sleeper.







Brand new parts acquired unless noted(some parts were replacements during breakdown because I don't reuse gaskets):
OEM intake manifold gasket
OEM 4-layer exhaust gasket
OEM t-stat gaskets
OEM fuel rail insulator(lost one during removal)
OEM valve cover gasket set
OEM tensioner
Koni Yellow 1G fronts, 2G rears(fronts are inserts and need to be installed still)
Refurbished OEM 1G AWD rear hubs (sent to JNZ to blast, coat, and install new wheel studs)
OEM front hubs, all seals, and all wheel bearings(basically everything needed for 5-lug swap brand new, but not installed)
OEM 1G Dipstick(old seal was shit)
Bob Dole's hood struts
DSM Brembo slotted rotors front and rear
Project Mu Type NS400 front and rear pads
JNZ ABS delete kit with non-ABS prop valve
Non-abs reservoir and cap
Techna-fit stainless brake lines with black covering for sleeperness
MAP Oil return stainless kit
Certified Muffler 3" Stainless kit w/ high flow Magnaflow cat and dual tips(muffler and tips have been powder coated flat black for sleeperness)
OEM timing cover bolts
OEM accelerator, brake, and clutch pedals (old ones were worn badly)
Earl's -6AN Caps and -6 Male to 14mm x 1.5 (everything needed for P/S blockoff)
Blue Gates kevlar A/C and alternator belts
OEM power steering belt
OEM 7cm turbo gasket
OEM 190F thermostat (old one was non-OEM and 180F I believe)
Momo 350mm Monte Carlo steering wheel with Momo hub (purchased way back, but forgot to mention)

Used parts acquired:
'89 Underdash
Cusco front strut bar
Interior piece above driver door and rear driverside door(old one was cracked)
AMG spark plug cover
StarQuest open leather headrests


Probably forgetting something since I've gathered a lot of parts... More updates to come.


Edited by minneSNOWta (03/06/15 09:46 PM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.154.24) | Report this post to a Moderator

transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1160007 posted 02/15/14 08:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
everything looks awesome, but boy is that a lot of blue under your hood!!! really nice job though.



138/2000 - BG - Dorothy

Posts: 3393 | From: Klamath Falls, Or | Member Since: 07/27/11 | IP: (24.180.45.179) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1160012 posted 02/15/14 09:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That ETS kit looks really nice. What'd it run you?



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

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minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1160016 posted 02/15/14 11:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks Shane. If I would have kept the valve cover red, then I would have also went with the Toda timing belt and red everything else. Since I am using the Zaklee timing cover, I felt that the whole color theme should revolve around the belt color. The GReddy RS BOV is even blue at the recirc fitting, but that will be hidden. Always liked the panda theme, but wanted blue accent. The damn Cusco bar has blue ends too! I like how some guys went with the HKS purple theme like James Foster and this was my take on a GReddy blue theme. Couldn't find compatible GReddy cam gears, so went the Fidanzas. I don't like mismatched colors in the engine bay really for aftermarket parts. The car is still more about go than show, but I want it to be show capable. It's also more of a street car, but I want it to be track capable too.

GSTwithPSI - The kit including shipping, anodizing, and powder coating was $945. Robert was super nice and gave me a 3% discount. Best time to buy the kits is during Black Friday or during their holiday sale. They even offer military discounts on the regular.

I also want to mention that the CM exhaust had a stainless bung welded in. Hooked up the AEM wideband sensor and also have the failsafe gauge powered up and connected to read boost as well. Still need an AEM oil pressure gauge. Both will go in the '89 underdash pocket, so the car appears stockish even with the Momo steering wheel. The 2G knob keeps it stock looking too. Will need to have a plate made to house both gauges though. I like having two gauges in one, but we will see how it works. Later on, I might actually try to get the failsafe feature of the gauge operational. With Link, I am going to change the stock boost gauge to a coolant temp gauge and I will be all good on gauges.

Hooked up the Greddy Profec B Spec-II boost controller to power and installed solenoid, and lines. I will have to relocate the solenoid closer to the turbo though. Was hoping the controller would fit in the ashtray, but it doesn't close all the way. Still need to install the HKS turbo timer.

Replaced damn near every bolt in the engine bay with stainless. Also painted all 3 horns, brake reservoir bracket, cruise control unit, misc. brackets, radiator support brackets, and hood latch assembly. Some of these pics are from this past summer. Need to get new clamps all around still. The reservoir is still the old one, but will be replaced later.













Back in September, I met The_Big_Weave aka Mike Weaver since he moved up to Duluth. He's a cool guy who has owned a few of these cars. It was fun to shoot the shit with someone who knows these cars. He ended up coming over again in late January to help with setting timing since I put the head back on. One of my cam gears was off from the factory and it made things difficult for us. We had some issues spinning the crank by hand, so we aborted and took the timing belt back off. My buddy Matt and I took the exhaust cam gear off and re-aligned the marks to be at 12 o'clock where they should be instead of way off at 4 o'clock. The dowels were in the proper position though. In earlier pics you can see it's off, but Archer Racing was able to time it correctly for me back in the spring by making their own marks with a sharpie and using a timing light. Torqued each of the 5 lock bolts to 48 in./lbs. and used Permatex red thread locker. Will get the gears degreed later too, but need dyno time, which means a 2.5 hour drive to MAP.

The belt has been set back on and my marks are perfect. All I have to do now is set the tensioner properly, install alternator belt and tension, and wait until spring to fire her up. Will need to find a tuner and try to get most of the new parts installed after like the brakes (want new replacement calipers and will paint black), suspension, hubs, and wheels/tires. Larger than Evo injectors, Supra fuel pump, and AFPR are also on that list too.

A couple of my car buddies in-town are moving to Portland in June. They helped me quite a bit and I really want to hoon around with them before they go. Matt H. drives a modded bugeye and Dalas a '88 FC NA. Matt. H was my roommate for 9 months. Not the same Matt I mentioned way, way earlier. We were able to get a lot done and I'm so thankful to have friends around. The other Matt is Matt G. and he is who got me into this platform. He moved away a couple summers ago to get a job at MAP in their turbo department. After a year, he wanted more money and ended up getting a job at Denso North America doing vehicle testing. I'm very happy for him. Thanks to Charles too for helping me all-around.



#1899/2000 - W09 A71 (1/111)

Build Thread


Edited by minneSNOWta (02/15/14 11:31 PM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.154.24) | Report this post to a Moderator

manikbastrd
A Negro's Savior
504/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1160190 posted 02/17/14 04:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Wow! Just read through your thread. Great to see someone trying to do things the right way...Seems like you have been having some bad luck though. Don't give up, when it runs right it will all be worth it!!!



Co-Founder of Shitbox Racing

1992 Galant VR4-stuff has happened...
2012 Boss 302 Mustang(DEAD)

Posts: 660 | From: Saratoga springs NY | Member Since: 11/19/09 | IP: (71.193.177.1) | Report this post to a Moderator

transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1160371 posted 02/18/14 09:44 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
will you be bringing this to the shoot out this year, id love to see the car in person.



138/2000 - BG - Dorothy

Posts: 3393 | From: Klamath Falls, Or | Member Since: 07/27/11 | IP: (24.180.45.179) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1171346 posted 05/10/14 11:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^Thanks manik. I am glad you think I'm doing things right.

^Thanks Shane. No I will not be at the shootout. If I'm fortunate enough, I might try to crash Cars & Coffee in MN, so CarRacer can see the car or show up at the Mitsu Cookout in MN too.

Alright guys, it looks like Spring is here. Time for some updates and hopefully soon this thing will be running. I'm stuck on setting timing belt tension with the motor in, so I might take the car in to get properly degreed to cam card specs. Other then that, it's just putting new clamps on and checking torque specs.


Used OEM sunroof deflector thanks to gizmovr4.





New custom battery tie-down made by my friend Matt in machine class. Thanks lil' boy!



Used StarQuest rear-view mirror. Thanks to Curtis for the idea.





New SSR B-type High center caps.



Used AMG spark plug cover. Need to freshen up the letters with some paint. Thanks jordanvr4.



New Koni Yellow Sport struts from KC. 1G front inserts and 2G rears. Need to decide on springs and rates. Also need to get front inserts installed into new KYB GR-2 housings.



New Brembo slotted 1G DSM rotors. I think I read the late model 2G's had a different style rotor.



New Project Mu Type NS pads front and rear. They do make pads and rotors for our cars if some of you are into the JDM stuff. Don't see too many people using them or even Endless.



Better pic of the ETS FMIC.



Used StarQuest open leather head rests. Bolt right in. I kind of want to go for the Monte Carlo look.



New 2G leather heavy shift knob. Stock shift knob had no numbers left and is a little light. Trying to keep the interior quiet because of the aftermarket Momo steering wheel. Already scratched the new knob somehow.



New Momo Monte Carlo. Fits well with the car, is period-correct, and a classic. Spoon Sports and Ferrari used them. The stock steering wheel was worn badly, so it had to go. Already managed to scratch it when pulling the underdash out. Sharp brackets.



New clutch, brake, and gas pedals. Just a little dirty from the garage. Grips on the old ones were pretty worn.



Used '89 underdash. Looks like a regular storage compartment similar to the one in my '96 Camry. Thanks strokin4dr.



Oh so sleepy. Buddy Matt H. made the backing plate in machine class for me. Thanks to Matt H. for the work and Mr. Mitsu for his idea. New AEM wideband/boost gauge and used AEM oil pressure gauge. Need to get the oil pressure hooked up. Thanks to onesickcrx for the oil gauge.



Been collecting grilles to switch up the look if I feel like. I think it is so badass that we have so many OEM grilles to choose from. Used '92 grille thanks to Paul Thornton.



New '89 aftermarket grille. Non-OEM. Quality is so-so. I think I might want a real one with the big diamonds later on. The slats on this grille go so well with the JDM front bumper slats. Cheekypimp inspired me.



Used Cusco front strut bar. Thanks MMCVR4.



Been stockpiling badges. New Galant badge.



New NLA MMC and matching diamonds.



New VR-4 badge.



New Super VR-4 badge. Thanks Ahmad.



New Tuned by AMG badge for the chrome mesh grille. Thanks G.



New Full Time badge. Thanks oldmantau.



New Ralliart trunk badge. Thanks G.



New Ralliart grille badge. Might use two of the emblems without bracket for the fenders. Thanks G.



New GReddy FV (Floating Valve) BOV. These have been out less than a year I think. Haven't seen anyone on here using one, so I am testing it out. Going to be recirculated, but just thought I'd show the new funnel design. Also new 32mm recirc fitting in black. No option for blue. Also notice the details in the new design. Not trying to whore, but I like the details. Fakes are already available.








Edited by minneSNOWta (05/11/14 12:34 AM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.154.24) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1171405 posted 05/11/14 05:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks like you're gonna give Mike V. a run for his money on the amount of badges stuck on a VR4.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3282 | From: SoCal | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
(72.45.2.251) | Report this post to a Moderator

G
obsessed with the turds of others
486/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1171433 posted 05/11/14 10:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks hot B! I has project u If you need a set holla.








www.japanesenostalgiccar.com
www.nostalgic.co.jp

Posts: 8803 | From: zompton | Member Since: 02/24/04 | IP: (2605:a000:1402:6) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1171443 posted 05/11/14 11:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hey Brett. Mike's car doesn't have that many badges on it. Stickers yes, but the only non-OEM badge I see is his custom flex fuel one. I'm not going to slap every single one on the car. Just been collecting.

Some grilles had their own badges. The Eterna ZR-4 grille I have has it's own 4x4 grille badge, which is uber rare by the way. Got it BNIB and will probably never see the streets after it gets painted because I'm afraid of damaging the grille and rare badge. Might just pop it on at a show or something.

It's nice to be able to change grilles out and some of the grille badges. They're all factory anyways and will be placed in the proper OEM location. The Ralliart ones are more to pay homage and they are OEM ones from G, not Chinese knockoffs. My '92 and Eterna Sava grilles will get the Full Time and the '91 will get the Tuned by AMG(like the Type-II grille). Not sure about the Ralliart one. Probably won't be using the VR-4 badge, but it's nice to have I think.

Think I might even go badgeless for a while except maybe grille badges until I get to paint and use the '89 grille with no Mitsu logo. Could be a long while before paint too. Sorry for the rant, just thought I'd explain myself.

Thanks G. I will think about it. I got black vinyl covered stainless Techna-Fit lines already for a sleeper look. The Mu lines do look hot and quality.


Edited by minneSNOWta (08/03/14 08:15 PM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.154.24) | Report this post to a Moderator

988
Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1171448 posted 05/12/14 01:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
welcome Andre.... Your part is on the way....



Very Rare 4Ever

click>> VR4 parts for SALES click here

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ScreaminE
Just don't like an idiot


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1171561 posted 05/12/14 01:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Where did you get that 2g shift knob and how much did it cost you?



-Scott H.
1267/2000 - sold

Posts: 646 | From: Pittsburgh South Hills | Member Since: 09/04/08 | IP: (71.162.4.85) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1183026 posted 08/04/14 12:16 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hoping to see a little light like some of the other fellas on here.

Got the gauges for the '89 pocket powered up.



View from the seat. The GReddy Profec B is powered too. It doesn't want to fit in the ashtray with the hinge in the way, so I might try to make a plate out of the face of the ashtray to cover it up. Not sure if I mentioned, but I'm going to change the stock boost gauge to read coolant temp instead.



Instead of going with the RAYS lugs my bro sold me with the wheels, I decided on SSR 48mm extended lug nuts. Less loud since the wheels already hurt my sleeper status.


I bought Bridgestone Potenza RE-11A tires to put on the SSR's. They are 225/50-16. Bridgestone was offering a $70 rebate at the time. I really wanted Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's, but the wait from Japan would have been who knows long. These are revised versions of the RE-11, but the A stands for auto-x. Old versus new.



Looks like a great combo. I can't confirm a weight, but the wheels are ~18.8lbs.



Bad-ass tread pattern. They are asymmetrical.



Comparing the small gain in width.



View of the meat. Protecting the wheel is a must.



Only shot I have of the wheel with the body. Should look pretty hot and like a spiced-up version of the color-matched OEM wheels.



Mounted the Profec controller right off the turbo. I had it too far away before. I put the DEI cool wrap on the hose going to the wastegate in case it gets too hot next to the water pipe since it is thinner hose. Lower radiator hose installed too.



I wrapped the oil feed line with the same DEI cool wrap to protect the line from rubbing against the radiator fins. MAP gave me the wrong size and too much, but you work with what you got sometimes. I rolled the wrap even tighter afterwards.



Replaced the stock fuel filter to rail line with a -6AN kit from JNZ. The OEM Fuel filter still has less than 50 miles on it.





Fixed the DSMtooners HD spa hose mod. Replaced with a 90 degree elbow, 1.25" aluminum hose joiner, and a 135 degree elbow. Not very short, but this should get the business done. The HD spa hose seemed too thin and easy to puncture, but it was only temporary anyways.



Close to the upper radiator hose, but with a little tweaking it should be fine. Going to space them, so they won't rub as much.



Found a discontinued GReddy oil cap. Added a new OEM seal and it seals very tight. I gave the mirror etched oil cap to Andy (Mn92gvr4) when he came up to pick up the RRE spark plug cover. The Evo cap is nice, but I don't like the Mobil 1 branding on there as much. STM used to make different oil decals for the caps, but I think they stopped. Couldn't find the GReddy in blue, but it looks nice.



Mounted the AMG cover to see how it all looks. I also stripped the black paint I had on the IM letters. Need to get them polished to match the valve cover.



Sunroof deflector installed. Took me a minute to figure out how to align the clips.



Window deflectors from Nameka. They seem to be built with decent quality. IIRC, Shane was the one who mentioned reinforcing with extra tape at the parts where it meets the door, so I did that too.



Rear windshield deflector from Nameka. Seems decent quality too and the clips appear to hold it on well. I was hoping it would have a gasket for rain, but we'll see how it works. The JDM door handle protectors aren't installed yet, just mocked. Need to scrape all the old crap off. JDM fuel door is also installed.



New fuel rail bolts and a new BISS screw cap. Also tucked the injector wires to floss the rail. I need to get all the clips still. Working on doing easy tucks here and there, but nothing serious.



Trying to button up the car and get it towed to MAP. Most of my car friends have left town and moved on, so I can only do so much for being a wrench newb. I try to do as much as I can or get help from friends before I take it into a shop. Archer Racing doesn't do DSM tuning, so I figured MAP is the best option since they have a Dynojet. They also built the block and will hopefully get it running properly for a 2.5 hour drive back up north. The steering rack needs the blockoffs installed, so I can drive with power.

Cams still need to get degreed according to the cam card specs. I figure that I should have a shop do it, since I can't even set my timing belt tension with confidence. I find it somewhat difficult to set the tension with the motor in the car even with the timing tools. Hopefully it will idle nice and right with all the repairs and degreeing. I have a new Fluidampr that will be going on and all new Gates and OEM accessory belts too.

I got a nice fuel sending unit from Evan Hale that I will run with a rewired Supra TT pump. Using the 560's for now, but am looking for 720's or maybe more. I would like to be able to run the E316G close to full boost on pump gas eventually. No E85 for me. Mentioned earlier that I am using a N/T auto FPR at 43.5 psi. Not sure if I need to get an adjustable one yet unless recommended, but I have all the supplies minus the AFPR to do so. Been eyeing a Tomei unit.

Waiting on the 5-lug swap, wheels, rotors, pads, lines for now until it runs. Then hopefully in the fall I can get them done along with the 4-bolt rear and axles. I can't man-handle the 5-lug swap, so I might have Archer do it. Then they can slip all my new stuff on that is a "while I'm there" job. Will be refreshing the calipers in black too.

Sent my JDM bumper and lip into a body shop and boy did they mess up. I'm too embarrassed to show the shoddy work, so I will wait until I get it fixed. Needs to be properly molded/joined in the middle and mounting holes relocated. Exterior mods are almost done. No JDM rear bumper for me I think. I like the USDM bumper side markers and would not feel comfortable grafting those onto a JDM.

Decided to get different catch cans and am waiting for them to be built. Should be good.

Still need to do bushings all around, but that will be later on too. Rear Whiteline sway bar too. Also, the CAS cover is ugly and I need to paint it black or get a MAP billet cover. The AMG corners need dual filament sockets, so I have parking lights. That's all I can think of for now. More to come, but it's been a slow summer.

I posted the following pics below earlier in Anything Goes, but they are somewhat relevant. A little piece of morale I found while digging around a box of golf balls I was given as a gift almost 10 years ago. Ironic isn't it? Mitsubishi makes club shafts I believe.





Just for fun. Bridgestone technology FTW! Rubber game on lock! Kind of random, but pro golfer Freddie Couples is sponsored by Mitsubishi Electric and Bridgestone. What a pimp.





Sorry guys, back on track now... Don't judge me .


Edited by minneSNOWta (08/05/14 12:19 AM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.133.220) | Report this post to a Moderator

manikbastrd
A Negro's Savior
504/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1183028 posted 08/04/14 12:27 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So much work in on this car. Makes all the work I have put in on mine look like nothing. Good on ya.



Co-Founder of Shitbox Racing

1992 Galant VR4-stuff has happened...
2012 Boss 302 Mustang(DEAD)

Posts: 660 | From: Saratoga springs NY | Member Since: 11/19/09 | IP: (2601:7:1400:f5:3) | Report this post to a Moderator

transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1183083 posted 08/04/14 10:54 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
car looks great, everything is coming along awesome. also yes that was me that said add the extra tape.



138/2000 - BG - Dorothy

Posts: 3393 | From: Klamath Falls, Or | Member Since: 07/27/11 | IP: (24.176.251.23) | Report this post to a Moderator

the_underdog
Member +
1444/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1183341 posted 08/05/14 07:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Well done sir! You've made excellent progress and I love those SSRs!



-Tom
My Galant- 1444/2000

Posts: 257 | From: Knoxville, TN | Member Since: 12/14/10 | IP: (50.149.169.140) | Report this post to a Moderator


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