Power Window not working

[EgonOlsen]

Im trying to change the motor in the sidedoor for the window, any clues to how to do that? anything to be aware of?

Its bloody hard to see inside the door. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Do I just loosen the 3 bolts and viola? or do I have to be aware of the wire for the pulling?
Looked for a howto, didnt find any, but it must be something people have done, at least when they convert to manual windows?

So anything that can go wrong or is it just jumping in and loose it all?

 

I believe you have to change the window regulator because the its sold as a whole unit

 

[EgonOlsen]

I have a full spare door with everything in it, just need to know if its just take it out, put it in. or what?

Is the wire in the motor? you mean you cant take it off you pull the whole thing out?

And this is the newbie forum, you are not allowed to throw around fancy words like Window Regulator, whatever that is.

 

[EgonOlsen]

Ok, anyway I went ahead and it was rather easy.

This car had been made to manual windows, I swapped it back to electric.

So the window is in, the plugs in the door connected, but nothing.
Can he have removed a wire somewhere else?
I know it worked in the other car.
Fuse under the hood seems good, looks brand new.
There is light in the little door lamp.

Any ideas?

 

[EgonOlsen]

Ok as you can see in the picture, the fuse under the hood is actually the ones looking newest.
Can there be a plug somewhere thats disconnected?
Or anything missing on the pictures?

 

[EgonOlsen]

I put in the passengerside power motor as well, not working either. Which leads me to believe it is a plug or fuse or relay somewhere thats unplugged/faulty.
I swapped out the fuse under the hood, didnt help.

Locks work
Side mirror work
Lamp in door work

So not anyone with some knowledge in this area?

 

[FlyingEagle]

Do you have a test light or a 12v light bulb with two leads of wire attached?

Check for power at your fuse and to ground. If you have power there, move forward.
Check for power at the main power wire at the window switch assembly. If you have power there, more forward.
Check for power at the power motor plug (remove the plug or back probe) and activate the switch.

If you get power in these three steps, bad regulator.
More than likely something is missing in the car, or the window switch/es are bad from not being used for so long.

We await your diagnosis.

 

[EgonOlsen]

Ohh im so not electrically inclined.

1. Using a spare doorlamp as a test lamp.
2. Have a full donorcar where everything worked before start, regulators and switches are from the donorcar, tried using the others, no change.
3. Remove the underhood fuse and checked the power. Yes there is power there. I swapped the fuse from the donorcar, no change.
4. Check power at main switch...ok which one is the main power wire? I take it its the first leg? Anyway there is power on it. Which 1 is the groupdwire? could it be ground thats missing? Since the regulators all worked 10 min before install.
There is power to Locks, lamp and mirrors btw. and they all work

Yes it does feel like its somewhere between mainswitch and fusebox the problem is. But following the line is rather impossible for me.
I might add none of the 4 windows work.
According to the diagram there should be a relay somewhere, but a diagram is rather confusing for me, maybe it makes more sense for you?

 

[FlyingEagle]

I want to say to check for power for the control of the relay by the ETACS unit. C-04 pin 28.
ETACS must received a low control side signal from the switch assembly when you select a window up or down.
They way it is pictured it would control nothing, but it usually doesn't show the way it is all incorporated.

So, if you have control/power going to the Pin at the ETACS, I would also check ground locations as well.
To test for a ground, you apply the 12V power to each ground point you would like to check.
I would check your relay. Must be under the dash near the column if this is anything like most cars.
Interior fuses and relays, near the column or under the dash or console. Relays are sometimes tucked into
a junction block under/around the column.

 

[FlyingEagle]

Possibly just above those fuses.

 

[EgonOlsen]

Ohh the ETACS is a bugger to get to.

you know by any chance which pin at the main switch assembly that is the groundwire, I could check if there is ground at the switch pretty easy if I knew which it where.

I will also see if the GLSI donor car have ETACS, if it does are they interchangable? Its a 1,8 GLSI from 92.

Looking blindly for a relay is a little hard, since it rarely say P/W relay on them, so no way of knowing what its for. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Hertz]

From experience if the main window controls at the driver's door are not plugged in or functioning, none of the windows will work.

 

[EgonOlsen]

This must be the %#¤%&#&¤##

So tell me, who decided the put the ETACS ecu there?
you need 3 joints on your arm to get there. or rib the whole dash and fuses apart.
Outer bolt easy, but the inner one...Jeez.
I found the GLSI dont have etacs at all, but the GTI does.
Tested the mainswitch in the GTI, works fine.
however I just wanna see if 1 of the wise boardmembers here suddenly
say:

Try to flip the switch near the Halson coils at the left of the fluxcapasitor and the magnetic flux will change so the powerwindows work.

you can wish cant you?
Anyway, none of the legs in the plug for the main switch is ground. I thought thats it.
Then I tried the GTI, same thing but those windows work, so thats not it.

Garfield get me my exhaust so I can do something else, before this drives me mad.

Acoording to the scematic, pin 28 at the ETACS is power and 29 is ground, so if I plug my testlamp into those 2 it should light up right?

 

[EgonOlsen]

This should be the relay as far as I have been able to find out.



I tried swapping it though, no change.

Another point also as far as I can read, the voltage on the ETACS is only 5v, Can we agree on that my test lamp is 12v and I cant use it for that?

 

[EgonOlsen]

Btw the manual say something about using the scan tool and check if the ETACS get the signals from the different switches.

Can I use my Palm logger instead of the Scan Tool?

 

[FlyingEagle]

Quoting EgonOlsen:
This should be the relay as far as I have been able to find out.



I tried swapping it though, no change.

Another point also as far as I can read, the voltage on the ETACS is only 5v, Can we agree on that my test lamp is 12v and I cant use it for that?



What I was asking was the 12V wire that the ETACS grounds via transistor, to turn on the power window relay. If you get 12V at the in-point to the ETACS unit, then that is a start.
I don't know how the unit controls the windows in that it sees a low voltage signal, or 12V low control signal, so the relay can then be activated for a single or multiple windows to operate.
Somebody here must have a wee bit more experience with the ETACS being incorporated into the power window setup. I will say that I am thankful that my C53A has hand crank windows.

Sounds like you have compatibility issues with the components you have plugged in, or a genuine fault in the system, if all else tests well. Follow power on the main diagram you posted at the top, and then find the signal from the switches into the ETACS, must be in the manual.

 

[EgonOlsen]

Im going nuts on this. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Ok what I have done so far.

1. Power at the fuse: Check
2. Power at the main switch: Check
3. Test main switch in my GTI: Check
4. Test Regulator with batterypower: Check
5. Change Relay: Check
6. Change Fuse: Check

So im rather back at the Etacs not working or a wire got lost somewhere.
Here is the test scematic for the Etacs. I tried plugging my testlamp in pin 36 and other end on ground. There was no power
But it also say it gets 5v power, so its a bit confusing for me to figure out I must admid.
I got the Etacs out, took me an hour to get the 2 bolts unbolted. But im reluctant to take it out of the GTI, dont feel like taking the dash ect. apart on that 1.

 

[EgonOlsen]

After putting in more hours, it seems I found the problem.

It seems the ground for the main switch is not working, which after trial and error seems to be pin 7 in the connector(power is pin 14)
I will update when I got it all working.

A sidenote. The ETACS have no impact on it working or not. I got it to work with the ETACS not plugged in at all.
all it took was connect pin7 to an external ground and window moved like a charm.

 

[Hertz]

Yay! I win! Main switch FTL.

 

[FlyingEagle]

I learned something new today.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif