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Car idles higher AFTER recirculation/boost leak fix?????

stealthtt24

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May 24, 2005
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I'm so over this damn car. It had a boost leak at the throttle body and the recirculation was blocked off but it still idled OK. I redo the recirculation and fix the boost leak at the throttle body and now the car idles at 2000-2300 rpm's. I triple checked to make sure everything is hooked up, as the last time I forgot to hook up the mass sensor and it threw a CEL. I drove it around the block and it doesn't idle surge, just idles high. Throttle body has been cleaned and serviced by throttlebodys.com.

I did a boost leak and it leaks a little bit out the valve cover on the left side port and has another large leak that I CANNOT track down. It sounds like it is coming from the turbo area, but I've sprayed down all those intercooler pipes but to no avail. I could make a video of it. I hate this car.

EDIT: Car was throwing CEL but I reconnected the coolant temp sensor and it is now fixed. The FIAV is blocked off.
 
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stealthtt24

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Probably should have mentioned, just got the throttle body back from throttlebodys.com. He cleaned and tested everything so all that is good to go.
 

stealthtt24

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While the car was running I unplugged the MAF, car dropped to 1500 and threw the CEL immediately, so the MAF is good.
 

stealthtt24

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OK so I was looking and I saw this connection had come undone. There was a red spade connector attached but I took it off. Also you can see the black single wire is unplugged... anyone help me out on what the two spade connector is?

IMAG0020.jpg
 

JSchleim18

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That is the ECU coolant temperature sensor. Tells the ECU what the coolant's temperature is so it can adjust fuel trims amongst other things.
 
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stealthtt24

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It is, would that cause high idle/CEL? I wrapped the wire around the spade just to test and still a high idle.
 

JSchleim18

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Disconnected Coolant temp sensor will throw a code. The high idle...check the BISS screw in the throttle body and turn in clockwise like you were tightening it.

This should lower the idle. You need to dial in your ISC as well. If you have a datalogger, you can check the ISC steps. Get it down to about 30.
 
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stealthtt24

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OK I will solder and fix that wire. Far as the Biss goes... it's turned all the way in clockwise. The car came with this weird ass looking logger cable, I'll take a picture.
 
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GSNT

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Jul 6, 2003
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Louisville, KY
First boost leak test the entire system and repair as necessary.

Set the throttle body stop: Unscrew the idle closed switch/stop and remove it. Verify that it has continuity with between the electrical connector and the body when you push the plunger in. Open the throttle plate all the way and let it go so that it will snap closed. The throttle plate will kind of wedge itself into the bore. Screw the idle switch in until it just moves the throttle plate then set the locknut so that it doesn't move. This sets your throttle plate closed position and insures that the idle closed switch operates. Reattach connector and verify again that the wire has continuity to ground when the idle is closed.

After this, check your TPS voltage at closed throttle, verify that it reads (I think) about .480-.490 volts, adjust if necessary. Reattach and adjust your throttle cable and make sure it has some slack when idle is closed and verify that the throttle body fully opens when you push the gas pedal to the floor. Turn your BISS screw all the way in, and back out about 2-3 turns.

The previous steps will get your throttle body set up properly and should get the idle down to almost the point of dying out. If you still have high idle after this, you have a faulty Fast Idle Air valve or Idle Speed Controller. But don't start throwing parts at it until you go through all of the previous steps. I can't tell you how many DSM's I've fixed with idle problems by just fixing the basic settings from where the owner/previous owner has screwed it all up.
 

stealthtt24

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May 24, 2005
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Orlando, FL
Yes yeti it is a new leak. Thank you gsnt I know the sensors are good but ill check the rest. I'll make a video of the boost leak tomorrow. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

spooling92vr4

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Jun 7, 2005
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long island, NY
I used to have on of those throttlebodies.. I had a problem with high idle and what happened was the plate would stick and didn't allow the throttle body to return to the same closed position every time ( the idle switch wouldn't always be triggered). Give that a shot
 

stealthtt24

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May 24, 2005
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Well the issue was the closed throttle switch not being properly adjusted. Backed it out two turns and with the BISS all the way in it idles fairly well at 1k rpms. It does idle "hunt", not surge, a little bit, although I haven't taken it out for a driver to see how it will idle when I'm out driving and come to a stop. I assume I need to set the BISS correctly by the vfaq, and probably fix the boost leak I have. But for now the car is driveable and I say thank you!!!
 
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