snap/pop and clutch to the floor

[fastasleep]

Hello friends,

I pulled out of a parking spot today and as I depressed the clutch pedal from first gear to stop at a stop sign, I heard a snap/pop sound and the clutch hit the floor.

A friend helped me push it back into a parking spot.

Here's the first assessment:

I cannot find any leaking fluid anywhere. There isn't any in the street where it occurred. There is not any fluid under the pedal assembly inside the car. I cannot see any fluid leaking on or around the slave cylinder or master cylinder.

I have a stainless steel clutch line and an SBR 3500 (ACT 2600 equivalent).

The clutch fork does not appear to be broken, but I can move it around freely as the slave is not providing any resistance.

The master cylinder is empty.

Where did the fluid go?

What could have snapped or popped?

I don't imagine the fluid could have slowly ran out, as I believe air would have slowly leaked into the system and caused a softening over time, as opposed to an abrupt 'pop' and loss of pressure.

Help.

 

[dmj]

If there is no fluid in the mc there must be a leak unless some one played a prank on you and suctioned it off , fill the master with fluid and re-bleed while having someone look for the leak.Good luck,and let us know how this turns out.

 

[fastasleep]

So, I think the clutch fork is broken.

My friend came and pushed the slave cylinder rod, which pushed fluid back up into the master cylinder (it looked empty). He didn't seem to think the fork should move as freely as it is moving.

All signs seem to point to the clutch fork. I assume it could be broken and just be loose, though not falling out of the transmission?

A few questions:

A) Should I get a better than factory clutch fork as a replacement and where can I get one?

B) Should I replace my pressure plate or disk, since the fork is being replaced? I assume I have to pull the transmission to replace the fork.

C) Should I replace the pivot ball?

Thanks

 

[jepherz]

You can buy a new, revised fork from JNZ. If you have the original, you should be able to see a difference in the casting. You don't need to replace any part of the clutch, but you should replace the pivot ball with a new one since it wears with the clutch fork.

 

[fastasleep]

Thanks Jeff,

I assume Galant VR-4 clutch forks are the same as 1G Eclipses?

Is the JNZ clutch fork cast like the OEM fork? If so, I would spend the $90 on the forged Competition Clutch fork if they are still available (I don't see them listed on their site, but from a recent DSM Talk thread, I can email them).

Ben

 

[JSchleim18]

He is saying call up JNZ for the OEM revised aka stronger clutch fork. JNZ is an OEM supplier so it will be an OEM Mitsubishi part. It is noticeably beefier than the original stock unit.

For the $9 or so, get a new ball as well. Can't hurt.

 

[Terry Posten]

Stay with the stock OEM stock upgrade. The old one lasted 18+ years and the revised Mitsu part will outlast that.

Cheap and you know it works.

 

[fastasleep]

Thanks, guys. I ordered the one from JNZ.

Josh at JNZ had this to say,

"The current shift forks are quite a bit stronger then the original that came with the car.

After people were having issues with the originals breaking, Mitsubishi issued a redesigned fork under a new part number.

The ones we sell are this new design.

I've yet to have one of the new design forks break on any of my cars, or any of our customer cars. This is including cars with custom ACT 3200 lb. clutch kits with the older finger design (which placed a lot more pressure on the fork itself)."

I appreciate the help.