The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

ULTRA RACING 3 PTS FENDER BAR

Nabeel

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2006
Messages
260
Location
K.S.A
I just bought VR4 '92 ULTRA RACING 3 PTS FENDER BAR from ebay.



What do u think?
I think this is good upgrade for handling. I am thinking to make custom X bar down the car also.
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
bout as useful as an emu ride

at least this guy can give an objective opinion, though... i guess
 

Nabeel

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2006
Messages
260
Location
K.S.A
Any one noticed that will be little hard to close the car's door when you jack the car? Especially the front doors? that means the chassis is not stiff enough.
 

grocery_getter

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2004
Messages
1,225
Location
Kent - industrial suburbs of Seattle, WA
Yes you are absolutely right, the chassis is not stiff enough. However, the problem with the chassis is because the chassis twist along the floor from front to rear.

Search for the discussion for Curtis under body strengthening bar that you weld underneath the chassis along the 2 chassis "rails". That's where the chassis is weak, and welding the support rails will help tremendously. The same solutions (welding or bolting on supporting chassis rails) are also employed by many other cars with a unibody design like us. When your floor remain straight, everything will work better.

This is the same principal as welding a cage in your interior, except it is underneath and keep the lower chassis of the car to always be in one flat plane.
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Yeah, I'm sorry guys but I tend to agree. I'm convinced that I have chassis flex on my grey car and that car has no previous crash damage. It is difficult to attribute all of the rigidity of my project car to the welding that I had done in this area, but the difference is night and day in that car so I too am thinking of getting these in addition to more subframe connectors.
 
Last edited:

grocery_getter

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2004
Messages
1,225
Location
Kent - industrial suburbs of Seattle, WA
The triangular bar behind the fender design is also flawed. By connecting the upper hinges, lower hinges and the behind the fender mounting point, any deflection on the front quarter area are going apply a pivoting force to the behind the fender mounting point (the one showed in your picture with 3 mounting bolt). They really need to square off the design of the front mounting point by adding another mounting point to keep everything square and prevent the force from pivoting on the front mount.
 

Nabeel

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2006
Messages
260
Location
K.S.A
grocery_getter'

I am sure this is not the perfect design. At lest the only plug & play I sow for GVR4. custom is pain most of the time. I did brackets for 3kGT caliber & ended to say I spent money for non perfect one & sorry not to buy one ready.
 

number3

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2001
Messages
7,623
Location
KoP, PA
The cage I put I welded into #3 along with the 3 LSD diffs where the best mods I did to the car handling wise. The car handled like it was on rails after that. Night and Day difference.
 

belize1334

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
I seem to recall a discussion with about using these on Evos and the consensus was that they were very effective.
 

Chad989of2000

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2005
Messages
1,791
Location
Livermore, CA
That company is very legit too. I've use their strut tower bars and the build quality seems great (not to mention specific for our cars and priced well).
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Well, I just ordered a set. I can't see them doing any harm and although they are very nice looking pieces they are going to be hidden under the fender so if they need another support point to be welded in it could be done and doesn't have to be pretty. I really just want to see if this creaky door issue that I have is due to chassis flex and if I can reduce it by stiffening the chassis at that location. I'm not sure yet but I may also weld these in rather than just bolt them on.
 

Nabeel

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2006
Messages
260
Location
K.S.A
I can't wait getting them. Seller offering free shipping to USA. He just send me the fedex tracking number. I may add some photos when arrived. For me they are at good price considering the shipping cost.
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
f*** me, that was quick! Arrived by Fedex this morning! I'll try to get these on by the weekend and report.
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Right Gentlemen,

We installed these on Saturday. Preparation (i.e. removing the fenders) is 90% of the work. The pieces are very well made and the mounting holes for the door hinge brackets lined up perfectly on both sides. My only concern is the forward mounting bracket. You simply drill two holes in the chassis and bolt it up with the supplied hardware. The section which it bolts to is double skinned but I still felt that if any force was applied to this bar that the chassis mounting point would deform long before the bar itself did.

We mounted the bar as suggested, by drilling and bolting it up but I do think welding it at the front would be preferable. In a perfect world I think maybe even welding more support into that section of the chassis would be beneficial, but I may be over engineering things.

What I can say however is that you can definitely feel a difference. It certainly is more noticeable when the suspension is under load. There is a slight improvement on cornering similar to that felt by upgrading a sway bar but the more noticeable difference comes when both struts come under compression simultaneously like when driving over a speed bump or going up a ramp. It feels more solid, there is more feedback through the chassis but like many chassis reinforcement mods like hard bushings, swaybars etc it does make the car a little more harsh and less compliant.

Edit: They have also solved my creaky door issue and the doors seem to close better now.

Anyway just thought I'd give these a thumbs up and my first impression. I'll monitor these and see if they develop any issues over time with the mounting points being too weak, but initial driving suggests that isn't an issue.

It was a good afternoon, got my '93 headlights and amber corners installed as well, together with some nice black "Ractive" pedals in place of the beaten up silver "Lonza" ones that were in the car when I bought it. I really need to wash it and take some pictures.

Paul.
 
Last edited:

Nabeel

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2006
Messages
260
Location
K.S.A
I just got mine. I am thinking to wild a sheet on the body then drill it. and may use bigger bolt than they sent.

 

AnotherNewb

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
1,472
Location
Orlando, FL
Quote:
l, together with some nice black "Ractive" pedals in place of the beaten up silver "Lonza" ones that were in the car when I bought it. I really need to wash it and take some pictures.

Paul.



Not realysure ractive and nice belong in the same sentence..... unless the quality gets better the closer to the source.

Thanks for the review, all to often a part gets bashed without even trying it out first.
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
LOL I didn't know Ractive stuff had a bad rap. I'm just not a fan of flashy shiny pedals. I picked these up off someone on the site, they are really simple just powder coated flat black with just a few holes and rubber raised grips on the surface. The clutch pedal has a few scratches but you can hardly see with them installed. I just like them because they are unassuming and discrete without looking crap like the worn down stock rubber pedals did.

As for the fender bars, I can definitely say that they have resolved almost all of my creaking issues. I was listening as I drove the car today and pretty much all the noises that were emanating from the driver's door area have gone, which suggests to me that a combination of chassis flex and door hinges inside the fender that clearly hadn't seen lubrication for years were the main culprits. The only remaining sound sometimes evident on acceleration and braking seems lower and could well be a subframe or control arm bushing. It's not a ball joint or sway bar link, since Ken swapped those out for me last week. So overall, I'm very happy with these bars already.
 
Last edited:

Brunoboy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
how do you order from the site anyways???
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top