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Can the electr. connections on the fuel pump sending unit be rebuilt?

Scott Y

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2001
Messages
482
Location
Lakewood, Colorado, USA
I'm chasing electrical gremlins, and I need to redo the connections to the fuel pump. I don't know what to call them, but I mean the electrical junction that is riveted to the sending unit cover that passes the positive current through to the pump. Can those junctions be purchased and installed? I don't care if it's a non-oem style, I just need to redo the wiring through the sending unit cover. When I put the new pump in I noticed that the plastic underneath the current positive terminal was cracked and partially missing, so I put a rubber washer underneath it to try and repair it but I want to do it correctly and remove this junction as a potential failure point.

Am I making any sense? I feel like a moron for not being able to describe the pieces better.
 

citymunky

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Sep 22, 2010
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1,761
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Chesapeake, VA
Somebody within the last 2 months posted a link to a OEM mitsu connecters. I think it was called Mitsubishi Cable or something like that.
 

Rausch

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Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
Quote:
I don't know what to call them, but I mean the electrical junction that is riveted to the sending unit cover that passes the positive current through to the pump.

I don;t think the above posted is what he's looking for.

The SS unit I got from DSG used plastic grommets and a short nut/bolt combo. So long as you have a FULLY insulated insert/sleeve through the sender top, you can use whatever you can find.

This is what came with the unit: (Thanks Alex for the replacement bits!!!!)

(Click on the little pic guy, No I dea why it's doing that to me still...)

Nylon washers, rubber grommets, and a hex section with a threaded end and tapped end and some lock nuts. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
No they can't rebuilt, but you can buy after market bulkhead connectors.
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
Here are a few >> click A few more click

This company has bulkhead wiring harnesses already pre-made as well as Low level sensors and Sending units. Some of the harnesses are plug and play for walbros. click

click

click
 
Last edited:

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
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Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
I repaired wiring on a similar fuel pump module once by installing stainless screws and nuts through existing holes (to attach the wiring to on outside/inside). then I sealed over them with black rtv to keep out moisture.
 

curtis

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May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Whatever you do make sure its 100% sealed from vapor as well as fluids and use no sealers like rtv , silicone etc unless you can get aircraft proseal which will cost more than the big brand connectors, I actually talked to toybreaker on the phone other night and he told me Deutsch makes some bad ass ones. I started looking and found this click me

then this guy built his own out of nylon That scares me because its just a bolt in a piece of nylon.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
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3,581
Damn good lookin out, Curtis! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Your input on these "science" projects is always invaluable.

Several manufacuters service this application, but they are mostly aviation/aero$pace applications and are $eriou$ly expensive.

You had some really good ideas on the subject, and I'm quite curious to see what you come up with.


Scott,

duetsch services this application.

I can buy their products at a deep discount locally, and I have also have local access to the tooling required to fabricate/terminate any duetsch connector they manufacture. (it's good to have friends! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif )

It's $eriou$ly expensive to use their line of connectors, but the finished job is flat bulletproof

Or, if you want to start over with a new sender/pump bracket, I know somebody that's parting an awd dsm locally. ( I never did find my spare dsm awd sender unit /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif )

Since you have to modify it to mount the pump, might as well start with the dsm unit!

You can pick that up on the cheap, and use that as a base for building a new pump mounting bracket and get done quicker and cheaper than re-repairing your old one.

Good luck, and please post up your "fix" to the problem.

Your solutions are always how-to worthy! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
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Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Quoting curtis:
use no sealers like rtv , silicone etc unless you can get aircraft proseal which will cost more than the big brand connectors,



Curtis, does this prohibition apply to outside the tank, or just exposure to gasoline inside the tank?

Details?
 

Scott Y

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2001
Messages
482
Location
Lakewood, Colorado, USA
Toybreaker, you're too kind.
I am hesitant to work with another sending unit because I don't have easy access to a welder, and I had to call in some favors to get the welding done on the existing unit.
I looked at the nylon bolt solution that was linked, and I wonder what the hesitation is to use that solution, it seems fairly robust at first glance.

I'm curious as to what the cost would be for the uber feedthrough connection, as I can't seem to pull any of them up from Deutch's website.
What I need to do is pull the sending unit back out, and see if the stock feedthrough is actually the problem.

Great info guys.
 

curtis

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Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Dave sealers might work well on an intake for just quick exposure but constant exposure to fuel they break down rather quickly. Days not months. The proseal stuff I know is JP4-8 safe but not sure about fuel safe. The nylon nut approach may work and work well but if I do it that way I'll used a stainless or brass stud with the larger center and press in the nylon and then push a rubber seal down to the larger section then seal with epoxy in around a few threads on each end then while wet lock both ends down with a flat washer and nut. I know advance and auto zone sell gastank sealer epoxy but i've never used it.


Also after thinking about it maybe just build a mold and pour fuel safe epoxy around it. I really think a cannon plug is a little over kill but just has to be 100% and no worries of leaks so I may go that route. Whatever I end up doing for mine I'll update the thread and also test exposure for the bulkhead for a few weeks in fuel or maybe one in fuel and one in methanol. That sh*t eats everything.
 
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