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What breaks first Tranfer case or 4 spider center diff...

onesickcrx

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Jun 3, 2007
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1,076
Location
NY
Since its late in the season and once again I wasn't able to finish my car /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif. I started looking into buying a rebuilt Transfer case from Jacks transmissions, but I know most drag racers switch these things in and out all the time. I would prefer not to have to change anything if possible. I have a 4 spider center diff and I would like to keep it in one peace. I will only drag my car on street tires so I don't think I will be snapping axles and I have a 4 bolt rear and axles. I rebuilt the last section of my drive shaft with OEM parts and bought the 3.5" driveshaftshop front section to help with un sprung weight so that's also taken care of. My suspension has very little play I installed pretty much every bushing and spherical joint they sell... My cars not a drag race, autocross or road race car its just a fun weekend car I am trying to set it up to do a little of everything /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif just trying to eliminate breaking parts

In short what do you guys break at the track or on the street center diff's or Transfer cases /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

Terry Posten

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Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
This is a weird post.

Asking what is going to break on YOUR car is a complete guess. And is totally dependant on how you drive it.

You can put a brand new Transfer Case and have it shell out 2 miles down the road.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. But at least fill the TC up with heavy shockproof fluid. That will help the gearset inside. The part I had to replace was the tranny output shaft because the splines were basically gone. Take the TC off the tranny and inspect the splines on the shaft and the female spline socket on the TC. If they are rounding off and have pointy edges, then that needs to be looked at. If they are good. Clean them really well and put a little white lithium grease on there to protect the metal.
 

onesickcrx

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Jun 3, 2007
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Location
NY
Yea it is kind of a weird question but I am just trying to see what breaks first typically. That's a good tip to check the output shaft splines, I have run into that on bikes in the past putting down good power and are hooking the tire. I have a new Stage 4 Shep trans so the output shaft is brand new /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

curtis

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May 4, 2003
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Clarksville TN
What clutch?
 

4thStroke

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Oct 22, 2007
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Vancouver, WA
Just because you are on street tires, don't rule out the possibility of easily destroying a certain part. Often times, it's street tires that do the damage because of their inconsistent habits. Wheel hop, spinning tires to instant grip, ect., can be hard on all drivetrain parts. They also tend to shock the drivetrain main because of the often times stiff sidewalls (obviously, this will depend on the tire).

The 4 spider and transfer case should both be fine if you are careful on how and when you decide to load them up.

Don't be afraid to slip that twin!
 
Last edited:

gtluke

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Sep 16, 2001
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4,210
Location
dirty jersey
dude don't waste your money on a rebuilt t-case.
The only thing that will save your transfer case is one of those upgrades to a larger shaft and driveshaft yoke. It's like 2 grand or more IIRC
When they break, they just sheer the output shaft right after the splines. They break there every time, never the internals, just the shaft.

Depends on what 4 spider you have too, there are a few ways to do it, the complication, strength, and price goes up accordingly.
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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11,971
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Yakima, WA
Quoting onesickcrx:
bought the 3.5" driveshaftshop front section to help with un sprung weight



The driveshaft is not un-sprung weight. Things like brake calipers/rotors, wheels/tires are un-sprung weight. Basically anything not held up by the suspension. The driveshaft is suspended just like the rest of the car.
 
Last edited:

H05TYL

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Jun 9, 2007
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752
Location
Wgtn, NZ
Do the US cars come with the all alloy transfer case or the steel head version? (I'm sure I've asked this before but I can't for the life of me recall the answer).

If they are all alloy cases (like non-evo JDM vr4's) it doesn't take much to break them at all.

If they are steel you are probably more likely to break 4th gear than either a 4-spider or a t-case (this is because 4th gear is undercut so there's room for the bearing and is not very strong at all).
 

NateCrisman

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Joined
Nov 22, 2008
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2,054
Location
Blairstown, NJ
Personally, with all stock driveline parts other than a strong single disk clutch and a welded center diff: I break drivers side rear axles atleast 2 times more often than I break a stock Xcase output shaft.

Nearly all the USDM xcases are steel head type. Some 90 DSM's and a few random GVR4's somehow have the lighter all aluminum xcase (8lb lighter)
 
Last edited:

mitsuturbo

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Jun 2, 2008
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3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
I sheared the spider gears inside the carrier on a 4 bolt LSD before i broke anything else. When i had a 3 bolt LSD, it was the driver side axle that snapped... ELEVEN SEPARATE TIMES. The pass side axle... i busted that one twice. Other than that, the only other thing i've busted drivetrain wise (aside from gearset pieces) was when i shot the pin out of the front diff while doing 4wheel burnouts/donuts.
 

1badgvr4

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Jul 2, 2006
Messages
1,242
Location
georgia
I would recommend a set of soft slicks if you serious about drag racing.like 4th stroke said street tires are the reason things break most of
The time.
 

onesickcrx

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Jun 3, 2007
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Location
NY
I ordered a rebuilt transfer case from jackstransmissions today /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif mine leaks and I like clean parts + peace of mind for me which is most important

I am considering buying set of BFG drag radials for one of my extra sets of wheels... think thats better then pure street tires /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
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