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What I will be doing next week.

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
I took the whole week off of work to be home while my kids are on spring break. They are old enough to take care of themselves for the day but need to be ready to settle "disputes" that come up.

But the real reason is to strip out the engine bay and re-spray to ready the chassis for the new EVO III tranny and my Class One stroker..

I spent the last 3 hours re-wiring my garage lights. Some of you may have seen my pathetic light wiring, only half the lights were still working.

I stripped it all out, threw away 3 old 4' fixtures that no longer worked, replaced 2 8' bulbs to get that fixture back in service, and reinstalled 3 new 4' fixtures.

I can now see. Tomorrow I should be able to get the engine bay stripped down to be ready to de-grease and tape off. AC comes out, ABS comes out, and a whole lot of cleaning and "keying" the surface.

This is what I am starting with.






Be doing this job for the next week, come on over if you can. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

SmoothCustomer

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Joined
Jul 6, 2008
Messages
3,319
Location
Lexington, KY
I just threw cash down on a shell, and the paint is just horrible. I figure since the engine is already out, I'm not changing the color and I know a guy I should really have it painted. The only thing is I'm worried that's going to be a lot of down time considering that I *could* just toss the engine in and go, so can you do me a favor and let me know how long all the prep time takes?
 

Terry Posten

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Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
Yes, most of the time of the tear-out and re-fit will be AC removal and ABS removal.

If your going to keep all that stuff, taping the lines and spraying around it should take that long.

I hope to have the bay ready to wash/degrease in about 3 hours of gutting. I will try and be through with the process.
 

SmoothCustomer

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 6, 2008
Messages
3,319
Location
Lexington, KY
Luckily my AC has been deleted, and I think abs was deleted too but that I'm not sure on. The car has 5 lugs so it most likely was but hard to say.
 

crimsondragon

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2008
Messages
638
Location
piscataway, nj
Wow your garage is bright. How hard is it to rewire fluorescent lights in? All I have is a dinky 75 watt bulb lighting mine.
 

Terry Posten

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Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
You can tell if the ABS was removed properly if you don't have the mess of brake lines routed over your top/front motor mount on the driver side fender well.

Doing fluorescent is easy.

I am assuming you have a light switch on your existing bulb, turn the switch off and run romex wire out of that fixture and along the rafters you want lights at. At each spot you want a light, install a duplex outlet. You can put 8 outlets safely on a single circuit.

Once the outlets are all wired in and tested, buy shop lights that have the little short cords already included and hang them so you can plug them in.
 

crimsondragon

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2008
Messages
638
Location
piscataway, nj
Cool thanks. I am running a switch to the overhead light. I figure I'll run four 2 bulb sets running with the length of the room. Or maybe two 2 bulb sets up in the front where the engine bay is and two 1 bulb sets in the rear. 48" strips should cover the garage perfectly.
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,642
Location
Iowa City, IA
Nice man. :thumbsup I did some garage light work yesterday too. Our washer/dryer is in the garage, so I wired up a motion sensor light over them so we don't have to deal with the switch anymore when carrying in laundry. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Something about a nice, well-lit, and organized garage makes you just *want* to work on the cars. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Terry Posten

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Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
Started around 1pm, 3.5 hours later, this is what I have.





Need to source new Ty-wrap pieces that have the body pin to secure it to the car. Should be able to pick them up at auto zone.

I will push it outside tomorrow after lunch and spend a few hours washing. I have decided to paint the upper fenders, top of the rad core support and upper firewall white. The frame rails and front end will all be black.

I am a little sore, not used to wrenching anymore. Gonna take it easy for the rest of the day.

BTW - Anybody know if the brake master has something to disconnect inside the car or can I just take the 2 nuts off and the valve body will fall off?
 

mistaVR4

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Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
4,768
Location
Boulder, CO
Looks nice bro! You did all that pretty quick! Can't wait to see the finished bay, I bet it will look really nice. Is your fire wall matt still pretty clean? Or are you going to clean that up somehow? Maybe with a carpet cleaner can with a brush top? It looks ok from the pics but I was just wondering.

Good work, oh and I do believe you can just unscrew the brake master and it will just come right out, the just mask off the booster.
 

Terry Posten

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Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
The firewall blanket is in good shape, just a cleaning with water and degreaser should do the trick.

I want to have the front end completely black behind all bumper, grill, headlights, etc... Then I want the frame rails and all the engine cradle structure black to hide all the drips-n-stuff that happen.

That's good news about the master, that will make cleaning and spraying a lot easier. I have to use baggies and rubber bands to protect all the gas lines, steering rack ports, rear brake lines, etc...

The hardest part is going to be the wiring. Inside that white trash bad is the whole engine bay loom and it is DIRTY. I will bucket wash it and try and be careful to not damage any of it. Old wiring can be brittle and I don't want to have a re-wiring mess on my hands.
 

mistaVR4

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Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
4,768
Location
Boulder, CO
That will be a nice color scenario, as far as that giant bag of harness goes, now would definitely be the time to replace connectors that have brittle or broken wire insulation that is almost inside the connector, as I'm sure you probably know the only place stuff like that usually occures is all the connectors for injectors, and sensors around the thermostat housing, CAS, and sometimes down near the alt. But, When I had my bay empty I cleaned it just like you did, I didn't paint it though because I spent so much time repairing brittle wire at most of those places with better ones I got off partially hacked harnesses I have laying around. So, if you do find some with so so wire, hit me up and I may have what you need and could send you the connector with a pigtail that is still nice and soft, then just solder, heat shrink, re-loom, and use a layer of high temp electrical tape you'll never have to worry about sh*t like that again. I also replaced almost all of the looming everywhere, it was real bad where that thick ass bundle runs under the rad. support, all filled with gravel and torn up leaving wires exposed. It does suck but make sure you look it over real well now instead of having to mess with something when the motor and all is back in.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Looking good so far Terry.
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
The white is sprayed. Took me about 2 hours to clean the entire bay and then another hour of taping off where I wanted the white and protecting the body.

It has been sitting in the sun for about 3 hours and I will give it a few more before I put tape on the fresh white paint to mask for the black.

It looks 10000 times better. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Pics later tonight.
 

Terry Posten

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Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
Black is done, completely un-taped and wrapped. Black is too tacky to let the harnesses down yet. Need to let it dry an hour or two before I can push it back into the garage. Tomorrow will see the wiring looms set back into place, run the clutch line, install the ABS delete brake kit, and install the power steering lines.

Still have to paint the power steering and clutch cable brackets but that wont be until tomorrow. I'm beat, my "spray paint" finger is cramping up and my back is sore from bending over all day. Time to watch some TV and do some homework /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif.

Now for the pics:







 

KT

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Joined
Oct 20, 2003
Messages
1,243
Location
Omaha, NE
You need one of those spray can attachments that has a handle and a trigger so you don't have to use your finger.
 

mistaVR4

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Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
4,768
Location
Boulder, CO
Looking real nice man! Good work.
 

Howie

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Aug 20, 2004
Messages
1,758
Location
LA
Holy snap, that looks great.
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
Spent the last 4 hours doing the brake lines, clutch line, power steering pump/reservoir assembly, running the engine loom, wire tucking the aftermarket gauge wiring (water temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, WBO2, etc...) and driving to 4 parts stores to find the correct cable ties (no luck).

I found that the stock harness to the thermostat housing has a few bad wires. I need to hit a junkyard tomorrow and get a few harness clips n' stuff.

I can't find the cable ties that have the anchor clips to re-attach the body loom. I can do it with regular ties but will have to drill more holes to loop them through but I would rather have the right parts.

Anybody know where I can get them? Maybe a "trade name" I can search for them with. I can't find them anywhere.
 

1941Galant

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 21, 2004
Messages
1,909
Location
Charles Town, WV
Have you tried fastenal for the cable ties? I remember Sean (sleepinGVR4 on here) got some for his new car, and I think that's where he went.
 
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