Help with HKS turbo kit needed

[ducttapeguy]

Hey guys. I have been having boost leak problems that has led to my Galant running super rich(smells like a lawnmower) and causing idle surge. I believe I have found the source of the problem



and I think this next one is from the o2 housing to the wastegate



I have no idea what happened to these bolts. Im guessing they werent tight and backed out all the way. The car isnt making full bost until almost 5000rpm.

My question is what size and type of bolts do I need to get to replace the missing ones. I cant really take the time to take everything apart because I need the car for work and I dont have anywhere to store it while its down. I have the HKS T4 turbo kit with the .48 housing. I still have a feeling that Im going to have to take it all apart, but I hope not. Any help is appreciated.

Tyler

 

[ducttapeguy]

Ok. Today I took the car to our Care care center on post and started trying to diagnose the problems I have been having. My buddy and I ended up taking out the IC, radiator, exhaust mani, turbo, and wastegate. After a lot of cussing and frustration and BS, we got everything out. The plan was to just find out what size bolts were needed and replace them. Not so much. There is a massive crack on the back side of a pipe going to the wastegate, two missing bolts, and the turbo has side to side shaftplay. In addition to that while we were taking the exhaust mani off 2 studs came out with the nuts and 2 more are loose in the block. Today has been a nightmare. I have to leave the car at the car care center for the next 3 days until the open again and I can only take it out if I get everything fixed.

I have a 60-1 turbo, matching exhaust mani and wastegate that I recently bought from Rob(Team Ducktape) but I still need to have him ship it to me. So Im playing the waiting game right now. When we took the radiator out it got a little banged up and when we drained it it was a rusty stinking brown fluid. So Im thinking I need to replace the radiator too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Any suggestions on radiators? Id like to do an aluminum one since I was planning on doing that eventually anyway. Would yall suggest a half sized radiator? If so what kind. Im going to order new exhaust mani studs and bolts too. Is there anything else I should replace or look at while Ive got the damn car apart? This is my DD so I cant be waiting for sh*t to break and then running around like crazy every week fixing something else. I just want to get everything I can done while the car is down right now. Thanks in advance.

Oh and I will have pics up soon so yall can share in my pain;.

Tyler

 

[Whoodoo]

Sorry to hear all that Tyler. If there's anything I can help you out with just let me know.

 

[H05TYL]

You don't need to replace the radiator (unless you've actually made a hole in it) - bent fins can be straightened.

Dirty brown nasty coolant just means it hasn't been changed for a loooooong time, flush the rad and the rest of the system with clean water until the water coming out the other end is still clean. Then refill with coolant and distilled water.

 

[ducttapeguy]

I probably could reeuse the radiator, but it is in rough shape and I want a nice new pretty radiator anyway. So at this point Im pretty much saying eff it to the radiator. lol. Anyway. Here are a couple of pics of how the car sits right now and the lovely crack that I was talking about







As she sits right now

 

[H05TYL]

Shouldn't be too hard to replace that piece of pipe with a new piece (with the old flanges welded on) - I'd be inclined to use a proper flexi-joint in there to prevent it cracking again.

 

[curtis]

check ebay and get a small flex section with the stainless mesh and fabricate.

 

[ducttapeguy]

Yeah I dont think it will be too hard to fix, but today was a PITA. I am wondering if it really needs a flex section. Is there movement there? It seems like its pretty solid right there. Everything else around it is metal, I dont see the reason it would need to flex. Can someone enlighten me as to why there is a flex section there in the first place?

 

[H05TYL]

Different parts of the setup will expand at different rates, due to differing 'heat sink' mass (wastegate route has much less metal to absorb heat before it expands than the turbine housing route).

 

[belize1334]

Even a massive hole in the wg setup shouldn't have ANY bearing on the air-fuel ratio. If you're running rich it's not related and you should track that down.

 

[SmoothCustomer]

If you needed a garage and a couple hands for at least a few hours later this week my brother and I should be able to help you out. That's probably useless to you at this point though.

 

[CutlassJim]

Quoting H05TYL:
Different parts of the setup will expand at different rates, due to differing 'heat sink' mass (wastegate route has much less metal to absorb heat before it expands than the turbine housing route).



Actually less material expands less. And for high heat you want as little/thin material as possible. You only need thinker/more material for strength but it will grow a lot more. That's why the holes on even a factory exhaust manifold get larger as they get farther away from the center of the flange. If they were all the exact size and everything fit together tight while cold the studs would be sheared right off when that sucker got hot.

So yes I would ABSOLUTELY run a little baby flex section in there or it will crack in no time.

 

[grocery_getter]

Quoting belize1334:
Even a massive hole in the wg setup shouldn't have ANY bearing on the air-fuel ratio. If you're running rich it's not related and you should track that down.



If the hole is before the O2 sensor like the crack in his setup, then air could venturi in from the crack and cause the O2 to read lean, which will skew fuel trim low causing the ecu to dump a bunch more fuel to compensate.

 

[belize1334]

^^...good point. I hadn't thought of that. Still, it would only affect the actual mixture during closed loop operation. Under boost, in open loop, it would actually make the o2 read lean since there is no feedback.

 

[grocery_getter]

Yes but he also said that he has (or might have?) a boost leak problem which would be responsible for his open loop under boost rich condition.
A boost leak (under vacumm condition within the closed loop) can also caused him to run lean as extra unmetered air is pulled into the intercooler piping by the engine vacumm.