fivestardsm
Well-known member
I tore this motor down yesterday and would have to say that it is defenitly one of the worst ones that I have seen. This is definetly the main and best reason to remove balance shafts. Enjoy the carnage.
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Balance shafts: The reason to delete them
- Thread starterfivestardsm
- Start date
Struc
Well-known member
I've got some pictures like that too, but mine are worse... The bearing was all twisted up in the bottom of the pan, and the lack of oil pressure caused a rod bearing to go. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif Never had balance shafts in any engine since!
jepherz
Staff member
Wow, I guess I was lucky when my BS seized and just took out the balance shaft belt...
fivestardsm
Well-known member
So they looked like these?
I found the one laying in the bottom of the pan along with one of the bolts that rattled out of the Oil pump. While the other was spinning twirlies on the B.S.
Here is the spun #1 because of the lack of oil since the B.S destroyed the pump.
I found the one laying in the bottom of the pan along with one of the bolts that rattled out of the Oil pump. While the other was spinning twirlies on the B.S.
Here is the spun #1 because of the lack of oil since the B.S destroyed the pump.
I have had this same thing happen to me 200 miles after a fresh timing belt
on my old 92 tsi. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
on my old 92 tsi. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
fivestardsm
Well-known member
Oh, and coming soon to a forum near you: How to repair a block with destroyed B.S journals.
Here is a preview. This is the first step in pluging the oil journals. This step is fairly inportant, but easy. I don't belive that anyone would ever beable to remove the philips head plug with out doing this step.
First, clean the threads with a wire brush:
Second, Thread on a 10mm nut (12mm or 13mm size wrench) on to the philips plug:
Third, Tighten snug. It will give you roughly half a nut to weld to:
Fourth, Weld the opening in the nut so that the nut and plug are welded together:
Fith, Remove the plug and repeat on the second plug for the inner B.S. bearing:
Here is a preview. This is the first step in pluging the oil journals. This step is fairly inportant, but easy. I don't belive that anyone would ever beable to remove the philips head plug with out doing this step.
First, clean the threads with a wire brush:
Second, Thread on a 10mm nut (12mm or 13mm size wrench) on to the philips plug:
Third, Tighten snug. It will give you roughly half a nut to weld to:
Fourth, Weld the opening in the nut so that the nut and plug are welded together:
Fith, Remove the plug and repeat on the second plug for the inner B.S. bearing:
prove_it
Well-known member
very nice tip!
You guys are forgetting to most important reason to pull them out, so you can have a sword fight with your friend at 2 am during your build process.
You guys are forgetting to most important reason to pull them out, so you can have a sword fight with your friend at 2 am during your build process.
boostedinaz
Well-known member
An impact screwdriver took mine right out, but that nut trick will probably have a higher success rate.
fivestardsm
Well-known member
I tried the impact screw driver and have never been succssesfull, but of course I live in the worst state for rusty vehicles. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
gvr4ever
Well-known member
How many miles at that failure?
fivestardsm
Well-known member
Im not positive because I got the car with the issue. However, I did find some recipts and such in the car and all I can do is guess. The best I can say, is a thousand or so. It is a .020 over rebuild and the cylinders dont have hardly any scoring. Still, I cant be positive. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Last edited:
Quoting razordsm:
I have had this same thing happen to me 200 miles after a fresh timing belt
on my old 92 tsi. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Had this exact result about 250 miles after a in-car rebuild (bearings, hone and rings) on my daughter's 2.4 Spyder engine. Balance shafts showed no sign of any issues a that time either. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Now I know better. I'm thinking of tearing down my 2g GST just to get them out before any trouble starts (155k on that engine).
I have had this same thing happen to me 200 miles after a fresh timing belt
on my old 92 tsi. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Had this exact result about 250 miles after a in-car rebuild (bearings, hone and rings) on my daughter's 2.4 Spyder engine. Balance shafts showed no sign of any issues a that time either. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Now I know better. I'm thinking of tearing down my 2g GST just to get them out before any trouble starts (155k on that engine).
This raises a question, as I am thinking of removing the balance shafts soon. The car has 182k on it, so I figure its a good way to keep it going longer. I was planning on doing the removal in the car, which means one will stay in the motor due to inability to pull it with the motor in the car. With that, and taking one out, so I run the risk of having too high of oil pressure which I hear is common when the removal is done?
jepherz
Staff member
No, if you remove only the rear shaft (all you HAVE to remove) the oil leakdown will still be present at the front shaft, so you will NOT increase oil pressure except for the small amount since the rear shaft will only be oiling one out of two bearings.
You can remove the front shaft too in car, but it's difficult and not necessary. If you remove the front shaft, you have to block off both oil passages and that's where you really increase oil pressure. The parts list is quite a bit smaller too if you only remove the rear.
You can remove the front shaft too in car, but it's difficult and not necessary. If you remove the front shaft, you have to block off both oil passages and that's where you really increase oil pressure. The parts list is quite a bit smaller too if you only remove the rear.
prove_it
Well-known member
when you do the elimation or both shafts What are your options to lower the oil pressure?
solidviper89
Well-known member
cut the springs, port the OFH passage... And someone posted links to dsm tuners where some guy ported the oil passage to the head... or something
prove_it
Well-known member
cut which springs
jepherz
Staff member
It'd be the oil pressure relief spring in the oil filter housing. I believe there may be two?
thecman02
Well-known member
Quoting fivestardsm:
I tried the impact screw driver and have never been succssesfull, but of course I live in the worst state for rusty vehicles. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Plus Juan.
I tried the impact screw driver and have never been succssesfull, but of course I live in the worst state for rusty vehicles. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Plus Juan.
Quoting jepherz:
It'd be the oil pressure relief spring in the oil filter housing. I believe there may be two?
Just one. It is really easy to get too as well. It is the HUGE nut on the bottom. Highly recommend cutting LESS than you think you need to. Check your aftermarket oil pressure gage and see what it reads. If it is too high, repeat. Much easier to recut than replace and start over. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
It'd be the oil pressure relief spring in the oil filter housing. I believe there may be two?
Just one. It is really easy to get too as well. It is the HUGE nut on the bottom. Highly recommend cutting LESS than you think you need to. Check your aftermarket oil pressure gage and see what it reads. If it is too high, repeat. Much easier to recut than replace and start over. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
