The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

which water pipe do I need

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
To eliminate the lines to the water/oil cooler, which water pipe do I need? I looked at CAPS for the 1990 turbo line, MD147684, but some others have stated using the non-turbo pipe. Wouldn't that one be missing the fitting for the turbo water cooling line (which I am keeping)? That one appears to be MD136572.

I may just cap off or weld shut the line to the water cooler and not replace it, since the pipe is in good shape. I suppose that will work just as well.

Thanks.
 

Well since you are keeping the water line, and elminating the pancake cooler then a 90 Turbo pipe is what you need
Hope this helps
 

atc250r

Staff member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
13,235
Location
Orange County, NY
Sam is right. The NT pipe is for those of us running an "oil cooled only" turbo.

John
 

ken inn

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2001
Messages
7,529
Location
krum texas
yah, and make it REALLY clean, and get the 90 tstat housing, too.
 

bazeng

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2003
Messages
2,520
Location
Melbourne, Australia
jspec one!
or the pipes from the air / oil cooler

why dont u just plug that end up?
thats what ill be doing.
 

powerplay

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2004
Messages
2,054
Location
Norwell, MA
I welded mine. It was easier than trying to find the '90
 

I did the same as powerplay. I cut off the tube that supplied the oil cooler/filter housing as well as the small nipple coming out of the tube that supplied coolant to the heater core. Now I have the main pipe, the long piece supplying the heater core, and the small nipple that's meant for a water cooled turbo.. It's simply corked with a threaded plug.
 

atc250r

Staff member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
13,235
Location
Orange County, NY
Quote:
yah, and make it REALLY clean, and get the 90 tstat housing, too.



Yeah, I forgot that part Ken. I acutally got a NT one from Tom and it worked perfectly. A fitting with a hose on it and a bolt hoseclamped in it cost Doug Thomas his entire car when the bolt blew out at the end of the track during what would usually be an 11 second run, coated his tires with antifreeze and sent him promptly into the wall. He was the original owner of his GVR4 which was the first one I ever saw and that's what got me lusting after one of these damn cars.

John
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
The 90 t-stat housing for a turbo, or non-turbo is the best choice? Using the non-turbo eliminates another of the water outlet pipes, leaving just one. Which other one is eliminated?

I wondered what happened that Doug was parting out his car.
 

atc250r

Staff member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
13,235
Location
Orange County, NY
The NT housing gets rid of the one that feeds the water to the turbo so you wouldn't want that one. Yeah, its a shame about Doug's car, he's a really nice guy. I saw him at the TTR shootout this weekend and he's got himself a nice new Evo now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

John
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top