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Oil consumption to the extreme.

Vince

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
75
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Not that I cant find it, but was curious about the more common experience from this group surrounding this issue.

I'm going through oil at a rapid pace with no indication of leaks, so I must be burning it. Problem is that for the amount I consume (so far 3 quarts in under 4000 miles) I would think smoke would be visible, but it just isn't there...
The engine just passed the 150K mark, and I have not really dug into it deeply yet as she is my DD for now.

Knowing the obvious possibilities; Valve guide seals, rings, turbocharger seals, has a common thread been discovered revolving around similar circumstances? (I'm sure just about every seal on the car is hard as a rock after so many years.)

I'm just curious for some common knowledge is it exists.

Peace,
Vince
 

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
I assume, living in Washington, that you have emissions testing? A good, warm, working catalytic converter will hide a lot of oil burning. Once you exceed its ability to absorb it, then it starts to show. YOu should stand behind your car and have someone start it from cold, this would be the best time to see it. I have seen perfect;y good and well maintained Honduh's burn over 3 quarts of oil between oil changes without a puff of smoke, a leak or anything.
 

gvr4ever

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,190
Location
central Indiana
If it's not ending up on the ground, it's gotta be going out the tailpipe. I had a old talon that had leaky valve stem seals. It was pretty obvious though. I'd leave a puff of smoking taking off from stop lights. Once going, it wasn't nearly as obvious, even under boost. Just left a puff of smoke taking off from those long red lights.

I guess it's also possible it could be in the coolant system, but I'd think that would be painfully obvious. If the head has never been rebuilt after all this time and 150k miles, I'd let the car running for 5 min or so, and hit the gas. See what comes out the exhaust. Valve cover gasket and turbo return line are two area's that like to leak. I'd think you would see that on the ground, but who knows.
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
If it's valve stem seals, it will only mostly smoke at idle due to the vacuum of the cylinders pulling it past the old hard seals. That's why a huge plume of smoke after leaving a stoplight you were idling at is common diagnosis for old crusty valve seals.

On our engines, stem seals don't usually cause smoke at startup because oil doesn't pool around the them and leak down while parked. They are raised a bit above the floor of the head. Under boost with positive pressure around the stems, it won't suck oil either.
 

Vince

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
75
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Thanks for the input, I know I am going to have to dig deeper for the answer. I was considering a top-end rebuild this summer, but think I will settle on purchasing a re-man for a fast turnaround.
I need to crawl under the chassis to see if maybe droplets are spraying rearward while in motion. Might explain why I see nothing when parked... The exhaust pipe is not oily, but certainly dark with dry black soot, so she is running a tad rich.

Thanks for the ideas all!

Common summer....

Vince
 

gvr4ever

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Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,190
Location
central Indiana
As long as the engine compression is good, I wouldn't stop driving it. Just be sure to top off your oil daily if needed. You don't want to run with low oil. I beat the ever living piss out of my old Talon. It would never break, no matter what. I made sure she always had fresh oil and I did maintenance, but because she used too much oil, I also used the cheapest on sale oil I could find. At the end of the day, these engines sure can be tough.

As long as your oil and coolant are not mixing and your boost is building properly, I wouldn't worry about it too much. You still want to address it, but it's probably not as alarming as you might think.
 

JoeDaddy0

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
63
Location
CA, USA, Beverly Hills
Hey check your drain line from the turbo. I too had no visible oil on the ground and it was not wet under engine except where photo shows.
That was the problem with my car and after a faulty turbo drain gasket repair by FTW, it leaked out within 25 miles and spun a bearing and B16G turbo.
OOOOps 10k worth of damage on a 50K no oil consuming engine.
If it is that gasket it will be no oil in a block of driving and you will lose engine and turbo as I did.
English Racing is in Camus and is the best in our area. Their estimates are 25% shy of bill you will end up with and they $$$. My car never ran as well as it does now.
 
Last edited:

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
Check and install a new OEM PCV valve if this has not been done in some time, or ever, for that matter.
 

Coltsfan

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Messages
200
Location
Tonawanda
Mine was going through twice that amount, but mainly only at interstate speeds. It almost never left a puff of smoke, unless I launched it, but even that was just a small puff left at the line. It turned out to be my rings.
 

Fish

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
206
Location
Idaho Falls, ID
My base galant goes through about a quart every 500 miles due to valve stem seals. It doesn't smoke at idle or under load but right when I let off the gas pedal to shift it will puff some smoke. I never would have noticed if friends driving behind me hadn't said something.
 

Vince

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
75
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Well, more diagnostics to go this coming weekend. Pulled the plug wires last Sunday to see the entire plug well on cylinder 3 filled with oil. A fast review showed all the valve cover bolts were simply hand tight. So after torquing properly, I hope to look again this weekend and see dry sockets. The plugs all looked in great shape and the right tint of brown on the electrode insulator, so I was happy there. I just tossed them back in knowing I can index them later when I'm done digging into things. A compression test is next, and if I'm happy there, then I may have to look at the turbo seals.... I'll find it, but with a carport and torrential downpours outside, it is not easy to get enthusiastic about at the moment.

Thanks again all for the input... I's appreciated!

Vince
 

strokin4dr

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Messages
2,770
Location
Savannah, GA
If you have known leaks in the valve cover area you should replace the gasket and grommets. They are more than likely cracked and brittle. Snugging the bolts down likely won't fix the issue.
Good luck
 

gvr4ever

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,190
Location
central Indiana
Quoting Vince:
Well, more diagnostics to go this coming weekend. Pulled the plug wires last Sunday to see the entire plug well on cylinder 3 filled with oil. A fast review showed all the valve cover bolts were simply hand tight. So after torquing properly, I hope to look again this weekend and see dry sockets. The plugs all looked in great shape and the right tint of brown on the electrode insulator, so I was happy there. I just tossed them back in knowing I can index them later when I'm done digging into things. A compression test is next, and if I'm happy there, then I may have to look at the turbo seals.... I'll find it, but with a carport and torrential downpours outside, it is not easy to get enthusiastic about at the moment.

Thanks again all for the input... I's appreciated!

Vince



Honestly, if the gaskets are good, hand tighten is good enough. I think the correct torque is only like 5lbs or something. Don't crank down too much, you'll strip them. The head is really soft. At least where the valve cover connects.
 
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