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Re: #860/1000 diary


MellowVR4
5" too short
372/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219399 posted 10/29/15 03:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Starter plate is the plate in the pic that's between the engine and trans..



89 RAIDER V6 5speed
90 GALANT GSX SOLD
91 372/2000 making it pretty again
91 578/2000 sold
92 417/1000 DIED
87 4RUNNER LS400 SWAP SOLD:(

Posts: 1618 | From: Milwaukee, Wi | Member Since: 07/25/09 | IP: (69.11.233.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219413 posted 10/29/15 08:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Got on the lift today - i bled the clutch some more and did get a few bubbles on the 15th pump or so.

Anyway, after it was bled, clutch fork had almost 0.5" of travel when the clutch was pressed (and I count still depress S/C by hand after bleeding):


On the bright side though, I got my horns working . Or rather horn working... Turns out both were bad, so for now I have the theft alarm horn hooked up down in the bumper. Any recommendation on good replacement horns?

Also, I may have found my battery drain. 30A ignition switch was the only thing pulling current other than the clock fuse:


Could someone verify if this is normal or not? I appreciate the help guys! Tomorrow I go to get "Evo Genesis" inspected and tagged (as my coworkers call it, lol).

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219417 posted 10/29/15 09:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The other pics you posted look a lot better. Looks like the fork is still positioned toward the driver side, but just a little.

Do you have access to a vacuum bleeder? They make the job so much easier with the bleeder screw positioned so wonky. I found with the vacuum bleeder, it allows you to close the bleeder before air can suck back in through the opening. With the bleeder positioned so stupid, do you think air is getting sucked back in before you can get it closed?

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383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219915 posted 11/08/15 08:25 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Tackled the alternator over the weekend (old one was charging at 12.8V)

What a nightmare, lol. 2 hours in my brother and I had the car on the lift, the radiator out, the power steering moved out of the way and the subframe pulled, lol, and it still put up a fight!

Oooh, oil everywhere...


It's a good thing we pulled the subframe, it was only then that we caught a bolt missing from the front motor mount. The front one has 2 bolts connecting the mount to the sub frame mount - one vertical and one horizontal, I'm missing the horizontal one (with the accompanying nut of course).

So far it's been 2 steps forward and one step back with this car, lol. But I'm getting a lot done. Left on the to-do list is:
SS brake lines
New fluids (coolant, oil, trans, transfer and diff)
Motor mount bolt
Rebuild drive shaft
Timing belt / water pump (with new belts)
Then tracking down the battery drain
Boost gauge (trying to find a good "stock looking" location for it)

Clutch is dragging at 6,000 rpm, but it seems to be grabbing further from the floor now, or I'm just used to driving it?? I got to keep fiddling with that as well. I've got a buddy with an old (unused) Shep tranny built for his 1g he'll sell me. I think I'd like to get the EVOIII 5th gear swap for better highway mileage. Anyone know a reputable tranny builder in the DFW area? Swapping that will give me a chance to check flywheel and probably swap to a south bend 2100 clutch - ACT2600 is overkill for my plans so far, and it seems a lot of people have hydrolic clutch headaches with them...

After that I imagine it'll stay stock until tax season, lol. Then the decision will be paint or horse power? Choices choices...

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219920 posted 11/09/15 06:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
for the gauge there aren't many options from dealers, but on facebook there is ortiz custom pods and they can make a gauge holder for any area. i had them make me a 2 gauge holder around the gauge cluster. you can ask them to make it for any place.


if you happen to come across any evo 3 5th gears grab me one or two or three. ive been looking for years and aside from buying an entire evo 3 transmission from japan there almost impossible to find.

as for decisions on power or paint, make the car what you want it to be then paint. the way i see it is why paint the car and make it look all sexy if your still going to be leaning over to fiddle with engine shit all the time?? thats just my opinion though.

cars starting to come along. good work.



138/2000 - BG - Dorothy

Posts: 3375 | From: Klamath Falls, Or | Member Since: 07/27/11 | IP: (50.37.19.96) | Report this post to a Moderator

89Patches
I <3 AMS


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1219941 posted 11/09/15 11:10 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Maybe you can't find any 5th gears because you're just looking for Evo 3 stuff. Evo 1&2 use the same 5th gear.

Posts: 718 | From: Ontario Canada | Member Since: 01/30/13 | IP: (174.35.243.172) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1220245 posted 11/12/15 07:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Just heard from TNZ, they said EVO 5th gears are no longer available... But they do still offer the taller 1st gear and shaft from the Evo.

On a brighter note though, my alternator swap seemed to fix my battery drain, it sat two full days and still had 12.4V and started right up (I know I know, quite the accomplishment). Before the alt swap 2 days of rest drained it to around 7 volts...



Wife's car: 2004 Subaru Forester XT
My car: 1992 GVR4 #860/1000
Let the battle begin!!!

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1220826 posted 11/22/15 08:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
This weekend I knocked out a few more things.

Stainless steel brake lines all around (red ones for an additional 5hp of course). Stockers were very worn, but they all came apart very easily with no fussing! Brakes feel more sensitive / precise now

(Very tight bends on the rear caliper line, making them 1 inch longer would have been great)




While I did the fronts I also replaced the shock tower mounts and added in the shock tube dust boots:



(Attempt #3, still can't pics to rotate 90??)

In the last pic you'll notice the wheel well cover missing, I was also trying to track down an oil leak - front cover and oil filter housing were covered in oil / sludge. Cleaned it all off, did and oil change and only noticed a little oil dripping down the sandwich plate from the filter side, so I snugged the filter down a little more and that seemed to stop it.

I also replaced the front motor mount bolt that fits in horizontally - it was missing when I got the car. That has helped the shifting smooth out a little, I still feel the knob move when on/off the gas. Maybe that bolt being omitted has worn out the motor mounts? Looks like some new bushings are on the to buy list

I also made the HUGE mistake of hooking up a boost gauge before I'm done bringing it all back to stock. Gauge only showed 7~8 lbs at WOT (gauge showed 1 before being plugged in, so not super confident in its accuracy). Anyway, now my manual boost controller is screaming at me from the tool box to be installed every time I walk into the garage . Going to do fuel pump hot wire kit before boost gets turned up.

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221316 posted 12/05/15 02:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Tackled both my rear quarter panel windows "wind noise" issue the other day. Man, what a fun job that was. It wasn't hard at all, just took a long time to clean all the old tar off...

Before:








After:


With new sealant applied right at the edge


No gaps = no more noise!


Now driving down the highway at 75 all I hear is my back seat squeaking...

BTW, here's the window sealant I finally found at a body shop (no dice at any local auto parts store)


Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSXftw
Member
1722/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221374 posted 12/07/15 01:53 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hi, Keep up the good work! For my contributions, I will say that first off, the EVO III 5th gear wont work in an early (90-early 91 MY) trans.
click
So the first thing you wanna do is run the numbers on the bellhousing, see if you can get an idea of the manufacture year, the final clue is the shift rail/fork design, but youre not gonna know until youre there inside the trans so first BH. Since GVR4 has the weaker 1st gear, I would just shop for a 92-94 dsm trans with EVO III 5th gear if you can. I was lucky enough to snag one up right when they got discontinued, if I see any come up Ill let you know.
For the shifting issues, I ran into the same thing. What you need to do is an extended slave rod. The rod doesnt give you more throw, it simply changes your starting point of the fork, which yours is too far towards the slave for sure. A chevy pushrod and a bench grinder do the trick or they do sell them. A dragging clutch is hard on everything in the trans so throw in that slave rod asap.
You should be able to safely run 15 psi on stock everything provided its all working properly, a wideband should go in for safety though.
Good luck lemme know if you have any ?s



1722/2000- Burn victim rescue
91 GSX- 11.66 @ 126 donated to save ^
97 TSI AWD - daily
97 GST- 14.7 @ 100 *sold*
82 Supra 7mgte- 12.66 @ 116
77 Camaro- 12.9 @ 107


Edited by GSXftw (12/07/15 01:56 AM)

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383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1221570 posted 12/10/15 03:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks for advise! I had figured the only other thing effecting shifting other than a messed up clutch install (which probably would have broke by now) is a longer rod. i don't know if the bracket the rod threads into on the clutch pedal is factory or not, I was going to weld a female union / long bolt to the end of it so I have more adjustment, I think a Chevy rod sounds easier though

Will let you know once fixed!



Wife's car: 2004 Subaru Forester XT
My car: 1992 GVR4 #860/1000
Let the battle begin!!!

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (66.87.99.218) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1225344 posted 03/08/16 08:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Spring is in the air! And that means storm season in Texas - good opportunity to work on my wipers...

Before:

Nasty and beat - you can tell these have just say in the sun forever


I've spray painted wipers on other cars with limited success; they usually end up chipping and rusting again within a few months. I started prepping these and there were just too many places I couldn't get to with my sand paper (if only I had a sand blaster) - if I couldn't get all the rust or old paint off, I knew the rattle can solution would be a band-aid at best. Since I'm no longer on a starving student budget, I figured I could take the baller rout and get them POWDER COATED Neon green for street cred

Just kidding - flat black. I would have done gloss but that would have been twice the price and wait time I got the trim coated while I was at it since it was looking old too.


Some things to note if you choose this rout. Obviously you have to take the "spoiler" off of the driver's side wiper, along with the plastic mount that it screws to (both had these for some reason?)

The way powder works it's able to get into all of the tight spots when done right. Unlike spray paint, powder can flow / blow around obstacles and will wait to find bare metal to stick to. When set up right you can hold the powder gun still and coat a soda can evenly all around. Obviously with spray paint, you could only coat half the can, and it wouldn't be an even coat either - check out the covered and uncovered parts of the hinge, these spots would have been left bare is spray painted:


HOWEVER - make sure they are coated in the folded / bent position (above right). Mine were left flat, and there are two small areas where there is metal-to-metal contact. In these areas the powder does pool around and glue shut, when bent after curing (bottom right) the "glue" breaks and leaves small bare spots - easy touch up though... If these had been coated bent they would have been perfect and ready to install without any work!


Next it getting my wiper sprayers working. I have everything needed to hook them up - install pics to come

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1231509 posted 09/04/16 08:34 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Man, time for some updates...

I haven't fooled with Galant much the past few months due to the timing belt being unknown and shifting issues...

Now that weather is a chilly mid 80's time to tackle some maintenance



Let's see, from right to left:
Shep trans (stage 1 I believe)
drive shaft carrier bearings, yokes and shims
Engine gasket set
Timing belt kit
Rebuilt Throttle Body (by Steve M at throttlebodys.com)
Balance shaft delete kit
Water pump
Evo III manifold and stud kit (I also have a 2g, not sure which to install and which to sell...)
Non ABS brakes lines and prop valve
Subframe bushings
Fuel pump "hot wire" kit
And laying across the back of the table is a non cruise throttle cable

Saturday I got motor and tranny yanked out - was an 8 hour job by myself without instructions, lol (well I did rewatch Tom's galant videos about ten times)

How I left it sat night.


So, onto the shifting issues - who can diagnose this clutch? Was told is was brand new and broken in properly by PO, since I've owned the car (almost a year) I've put about 2000 light miles on it - maybe 3 hard launches total, lol. It doesn't slip at all, and when I do drive it's mostly on the highway, and I'm very easy on it - even then there's always a "warm" clutch smell when I get out.

Flywheel:



Pressure plate:



Step distance is 0.625 on this "new flywheel." A little much huh? But you'd think being out of spec on the top end wouldn't allow for clutch drag and grinding gears (gear lockout at anything over 6,000 and shifting fast).



Here's a shot of the trans, I'll have to research if that fork and TO bearing can swap over - maybe the were wrong this whole time? PO did say he replaced them with new clutch...




Anyway, I've got serial numbers off the clutch and will call ACT to see how old they are. I'm pretty sure it's the big 2600 kit - was a pain to drive (heavy pedal). If they can't work with my on anything and clutch isn't salvageable I'll probably get a lighter duty South Bend Clutch - I've had good experience with them (plus everywhere I read about mitsubishi's and ACT clutches I find more issues than success stories???)

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1231530 posted 09/04/16 08:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'm starting to think the deep step depth was the problem - the throw out bearing wear ring is off center:




Wife's car: 2004 Subaru Forester XT
My car: 1992 GVR4 #860/1000
Let the battle begin!!!

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1231831 posted 09/16/16 02:55 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It's been slow goings... The deeper I go the more stuff I find I need to replace, lol.

I chipped a big chunk of my balancer pulley lip off... It wouldn't budge by hand (didn't expect it to) so I shot it with some PB blaster and gave it a little tap with a mallet on the back side and it literally jumped off the crank snout like it was trying to escape! I tried to intercept, fumbled, and of course it hit the engine stand. Oh well, I guess at 114k miles I might as well replace it...

Also going to replace timing cover - BOTH sides had huge wear from belts (PS belt from outside and timing belt on inside)??? Not sure how that happened, unless first guy to replace timing belt just sucked at reinstalling things. It was missing two cover bolts too...



I did manage to get to my balance shafts though, check out what I found when I popped the oil pan off !!!



I'm surprised I still had oil pressure - I wonder how much longer I had...



I followed Jafro's YouTube video instructions and the BS delete kit install was a breeze (although I have no idea how some guys do this with the motor in the car!!)

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1233456 posted 11/14/16 08:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I need some catching up to do!

What was going to be a tranny swap (paid $350 for it - Shep built trans that had been sitting in a corner of a buddies garage), balance shaft delete and timing belt ($500 maybe??) turned into a $2000 bill... the further I dug the more I had to replace

Some off the new stuff

(Not shown is also a new crank timing belt gear, belts, top timing cover, exhaust mani studs and lots more I've forgotten already, lol)

Decided to play it safe and replace entire clutch (ACT 2600 was rediculous on stock power, and 8lb flywheel didn't make sense either). Went with street light flywheel and 2100 pressure plate and disk:





Check out exhaust housing!! Lol. Wastegate port looked the same way...



Replaced that with 7cm unit, ported to match 2g O2 housing and Evo3 manifold. Looks good


Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1233458 posted 11/14/16 08:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Swapping fork from old tranny to new one I found this pivot ball shim, which I think explained more of my shifting woes...
.

So, before motor went back in I swapped out ABS unit for non-assist brake lines and prop valve.



Taking this unit out was harder than putting the new lines in!


Looks cleaner IMO



I also swapped cruise control throttle cable for standard cable (more cleaner again)


Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1233461 posted 11/14/16 09:25 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What I thought was going to take two weekends was approaching 2 months. My dad's place has a lift, so car was over there and I couldn't get to it often. Plus every time I looked at it I found something to replace - heater core hoses, gaskets, etc, so I had to wait for shipping as well. Finally though the motor was ready to put back in. (See Galant hiding back there... we've got a waiting list of car projects, lol - it never ends)

Bottom end bolts were checked for torque and pan was bolted up.


I pulled intake mani off to replace its gasket to head and swap on the new / refurbished TB from Throttlebodies - Turns out the guy lives up the street from me in Ok about 90 min, and he's into Buick GN's as well, so I took him a TB's from our Grand National and VR4 and checked out his shop. He's right in the "405's territory" lol



I had him do the FAIV bypass. Ran into a snag putting IAC back on, I was tightening by hand and snapped one of the mounting tabs / ears off! No biggie, I'll JB weld it, let it sit for a day and try again - but it snapped in the same spot, with hardly any real torque!?! Turns out it would sit flush?? Maybe it had always been like that, I'm not sure., but o-ring was causing it to sit 1/16 too high, so I got a used one from performance partout, took out the o-ring and fit it on. (I'll have to get a new o-ring obviously)

I also broke the plastic t-stat mounted EGR controller (??), so I made a block off plate for the valve. I'll probably replace that piece and remove my blockoff plate eventually.


I also did the window weld "mod" to the front motor mount.

Since motor and tranny came out separately, that's how they went back in. Motor went in great, but trans was a PITA. I gave up on lifting / shoving from underneath and decided to pull from the top - MUCH EASIER, but I imagine dropping them together from the top would have been best.


Cherry picker tied to trans, hoisted to the right height and then just maneuvered it onto the dowels.

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1233678 posted 11/21/16 08:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well I'm glad to report that motor fired right up the first try, and with no leaks! I shut it off after a minute and went home for the evening.

Came back the next day and fired it up again to let it fully warm up and top off all fluids. After idling for a bit I started noticing a "grumbling" noise from the timing cover?!? It got louder if I revved it up a bit so I shut it down. Popped off timing cover and everything looked good. I went inside to research my new noise and most paths lead to a poorly tightened timing belt! Are you kidding me! The whole reason I pulled the motor (other than BS delete) was to have easy access to the timing belt, now I've got to redo it in the car

So I do the walk of shame back to the garage after a few hours of googling and lunch and start putting the car on the lift and I notice some drops of oil on the ground from timing belt side of motor!!! It was fine the day before... so I get the car on the lift, pop the splash guard off and find this:




I was at a loss of words, what was my stub shaft bolt doing poking outside of my timing cover?


Well at least that explained my noise and oil leak!

So I popped the (brand new) lower timing cover off and found this:


Maybe 5 minutes of idling had done this already - my old timing cover looked like this too on the inside (including belt wear marks on the outside as well?). All I can figure is something is bent out of whack, but I couldn't figure out what. But the timing cover was sittings close enough to the motor to wear on the belt and back the stub shaft bolt off...

I redid the timing belt tension procedure anyway since I was in there, and it came out dead nuts on . Funny cause I struggled with getting the hydroulic tensioner height in spec when motor was out of the car?? Oh well, doing the timing belt like this really wasn't bad at all - of course I was on a lift though...

I locktited the stub shaft bolt on this time, and reamed out its "new hole" so it wouldn't grab again. I put the timing belt cover on "not as tight" this time; looking down through the top timing cover there's maybe .030" clearance between the belt and cover - are they all this tight??

(Your looking down the intake cam side of the timing belt, as if you were leaning over from the front of the car. The "white streak" from the left of the pic is the timing belt gong down to the idler pulley - there you'll notice the small gap between the pulley and cover - I'd circle this in red but I'm on an iPad )


Tossed it all back together and fired it back up, no noise and no leaks. I even drove it home that night (20 miles). And the next morning there were still no leaks

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

trevstuh86
Newbie
1058/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1233726 posted 11/23/16 07:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It's funny how more and more things pop up on these cars man. I'm in the same boat as you, my #3 cylinder is toast and I still have to do a little body work. I'm starting to save for a replacement motor for #1058/2000 and hopefully I can save the original block. Good job on bringing her back to life and figuring out the issue on your ride.

Posts: 10 | From: Mansfield, Tx | Member Since: 03/05/15 | IP: (2602:304:ce35:cd) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1233772 posted 11/25/16 03:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah, it's been a... thorough learning experience

When I felt confident enough I drove it home one night. Next morning I went out to drive it to work but the idle was ALL OVER THE PLACE; from 2000rpm to barely running - and my throttle input had little effect. Just as I though "vacuum leak" the car died. I pop the hood and sure though the recirc hose had popped off. I clamp it back on and go to start again and NOTHING! Completely dead when I try to start motor

To make a long story short, I had battery and starter tested and both were good, and I was getting good continuity on the starter harness, to so I thought...



There was my culprit: the chassis ground under the fuse box. Apparently there was enough corrosion on the back side of this "bracket" that I wasn't getting a good chassis ground. All other terminals tested good on continuity, but I couldn't get anything from the back side of this bracket. Cleaned all connections up with some sandpaper till they were nice and shiny, put harness and starter back in and it fired right up

So one more thing crossed off the list that was never on the to-do list to begin with lol.

Two more of those items are:
1). Put 500 easy miles on clutch to break it in
2). Pull out welded center diff and replace it with stock open unit.

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1235271 posted 02/13/17 02:11 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Few more updates. I've decided to keep the welded center diff (mostly because I tore into the old tranny and didn't have big enough sockets to bust the two shaft nuts off), and I like how it drives / steers - it almost has a self centering effect to it. Hard to describe, but in the corners you can feel a difference.

I've also tossed in a new fuel pump and wiring kit:



I went with the Walbro 190 LPH so that I wouldn't have to worry about an adjustable AFR or any tuning



The sender access panel area is pretty clean - NO RUST!



I followed Tom's video of this install - he pretty much covers everything, including how tight this fuel line fitting will be!! After a few days of soaking with PB blaster it still fought me, but doubling up on line wrenches and the freeze spray worked



"modding" the sender unit was straight forward - just make sure when you cut the tube short you cut it far enough down to let your blade cut all the way through the tube without hitting the bracket:


Ready to go back in - my kit didn't come with a pump insulator. From what I understand the insulator sleeve is for noise damping, and I've heard too many stories of these deteriorating and clogging up pumps / filters:




Now for the wiring:



Like Tom, I had to lengthen the main power wire - I ran it up the pass side until the rear seat, then cut across the floor under the main brace and then back out the driver's side:
The length of this brace is how much I lengthened the power wire...
At both "corners" I wrapped plenty of e-tape around the wire to fight any chaffing (although I left it pretty loose to combat chaffing as well)




On the driver's side I ran it up the existing loom / raceway:



Out back I spliced in the pig tail where the harness comes out from under the trunk latch cover:



And that's where I "hid" the relay switch - since there's a ground screw there already:


soldering pic



And all buttoned back up - Car fired right up and drives fine

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (75.141.153.242) | Report this post to a Moderator

383mazda
Junior Member
860/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236449 posted 04/07/17 09:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Welp, I sold the car today. It was bitter sweet; that car was certainly a learning experience, lol! It's was sold to a member of this forum though, and he's got big plans for the car, I'm excited to follow along. I lost a lot of money on "restoring" #860 to DD status, but at least it lives on and will be a solid clean slate for future power mods!



Wife's car: 2004 Subaru Forester XT
My car: 1992 GVR4 #860/1000
Let the battle begin!!!

Posts: 61 | From: Gainesville, TEXAS | Member Since: 10/10/15 | IP: (74.197.187.87) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle
Doesn't Match Anything


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1236458 posted 04/08/17 10:34 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Hey, if nobody restored the cars, there would be no special examples running around in reliable fashion.

Good on you for putting in what you did. It's not good business sense, but it makes sense when you value what the automobile represents and how clean an example you want to be driving in.

Every time you drove it, you knew what kind of parts were used and the kind of attention to details they received.

Always better safe, than sorry.

You will have tons of fun in that new car I bet!



C53A 1 of the ~1500

Posts: 1494 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (173.33.102.107) | Report this post to a Moderator


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