The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Can't shift into gear.

citymunky

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
1,761
Location
Chesapeake, VA
I'm almost ready to get 733/2k on the road so I can start working out the bugs, but this one issue is keeping from doing so. Not being able to get this car on the road is tearing at me. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

I thought I fixed the problem when I replaced the worn out clutch pedal assembly arm that was rounded out along with plastic bushings. Nope, the problem was still there, so next we pulled the transmission and I found the retainer clip the holds the clutch fork to the pivot ball was bent, thus not even keeping the clutch fork attached to the pivot ball. We replaced the clutch fork, installed the stock flywheel and reinstall the transmission.

While the still in the middle of installing the front subframe support brace, north & south balls I thought it would be a good time to see if I could indeed shift into gear or not with the engine running. With just the passenger side axle cup and the crossover drive shaft installed I was able to shift into all 5 gears and reverse, and I confirm the axles were spinning while in gear.

I thought I was good, until I installed everything else and tried to go for a test drive, and that's went yet again I couldn't shift into gear.

Today I just swapped shifter cables with knowing mostly that wasn't the problem. I was right, the new cables didn't change a thing.

I checked the position on my clutch fork, it's sitting in the middle and moves toward the passenger when the clutch pedal is fully pushed in.

I'm able to go through all the gears while the car is not running.

I watch the crank pulley with the clutch pedal was pushed in, and I didn't notice any in-and-out movement.

There is no fuild leaking into the car from the master cylinder. There is no leakage from the slave.

The pivot ball is new.

I don't have a extended slave cylinder rod.

The shifted cables seem to be adjusted right, as I don't have to adjust them to slide them on the shifter arm.

Besides throwing new cylinders on the car, I don't know what else to do or check. Looking for any advice, pointer to get the car on the road.
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,460
Location
SoCal
My guess would be the clutch is not releasing. I'd want to confirm it's releasing.

With the engine off, put the car in gear, and push the clutch in. With the clutch in, have someone try to push/move the car back and forth on level ground. If the car moves freely, the clutch is releasing. If not, the clutch is not releasing, and it's trying to turn the motor over.

As to why it wouldn't be releasing, sounds like the clutch assembly or the flywheel may be at fault. It sounds like the fork is where it should be, and the hydraulics are working properly.

What clutch is this? Also, have you ever checked the step on your flywheel?
 
Last edited:

citymunky

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
1,761
Location
Chesapeake, VA
I figured the clutch is not releasing, I just can't fingure out why. I'll try that trick tomorrow in the garage, the car is currently in my driveway and it's not on a level surface.

The clutch is a ACT 2100, the clutch disc and the pressure plate fiction surfaces look great. The white lettering from the ACT stamp was still readable on the clutch disc.

I'm not 100% sold on the flywheel, although it's a possibility. I have a Findanza flywheel installed at first with little to no miles on the fiction disc, and I just swapped in the stock flywheel which was resurfaced, however I don't have a way to check the step.

Also I would like to point out that I adjusted the master cylinder adjustment rod.
 
Last edited:

Fish

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
206
Location
Idaho Falls, ID
Mine had this problem after installing all new hydraulics. I ended up switching to a slave cylinder from a 92 with the smaller bore. It may be worth a shot if you haven't already tried it.
 

citymunky

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
1,761
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I did swap the slave cylinder that was originally in the car because it was seized. I swapped it out with one that was on the 1ga Talon TSi AWD that I was parting out.

I hope that's the problem because it's a easy fix, and the slave cylinder that is installed now is almost impossible to bleed due to the location of the bleed screw.
 
Joined
Jul 1, 2012
Messages
24
Location
Wis.
I had the same issue. I adjusted the rod on the clutch pedal so the car can go into gear.
 

Jesh

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Messages
282
Location
Soldotna, Alaska
Had the same problem not long ago on 898. Installed a new southbend clutch disc and PP, replaced the flywheel surface on my spec flywheel and could not get the car into gear while running just like your problem. I ended up pulling the trans back out and comparing the flywheel step of the southbend clutch to my old setup. As it turns out due to the design of the southbend PP they require a greater step height. I could put the car into gear, start the engine and with the clutch all the way in I would slowly start to roll forward, ended up just ordering the same clutch setup I had used before, checked the step height on it, bolted it in, problem solved. best of luck on this, I know it can be a headache.
 

citymunky

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
1,761
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Thanks for the insight. I'm really hope I don't have to pull the transmission out again.

As for now I got my hands on Aisin (Mitsubishi OE supplier) Slave Cylinder with a 3/4" bore.I started installing today but it started to storm. Still need to bolt it in and bleed it.
 
Last edited:

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
have you checked the master? i actually put a VR4 together today for a customer(he owns 1306/2000 and is a little Philippine guy who has no intent of ever being on the board) and after putting in the clutch it wouldn't go into gear. there were no leaks in the clutch system, until i removed the boot in the cabin under the dash and fluid came out.
 

citymunky

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
1,761
Location
Chesapeake, VA
I installed the new slave cylinder and still I can't get the car into gear.


I pulled back the boot of the master cylinder like you said, and while there was no fluid in the boot, the area around the piston had a light brown build-up of semi-solid sh*t. It reminded me of what happens when coolant and motor oil mixes together. I'm petty sure the brake fluid eat up the seals in master cylinder due to the car JSB for 10+ years. Went I pushed in the pedal I tiny bit of fluid bypassed the around the piston.

Looked like I need a new Master cylinder also. However I still don't think the this is 100% the cause of my issue. I have a feeling that once I replaced the master cylinder that I'm still going to have to pull the transmission again to check the step of the flywheel.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
If fluid is passing through so is air. I wouldn't be surprised if a new master, a bleed and a pedal adjustment fixed it. It did for 1306. Then the ECU burnt up....
 

Fish

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2012
Messages
206
Location
Idaho Falls, ID
Definitely try replacing the master cylinder before pulling the transmission out. It only take a little bit of air to screw everything up.
 

marvinmadman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2003
Messages
2,355
Location
Lafayette, Louisiana
How close does the clutch fork come to the trans housing when the pedal is to the floor?
 

citymunky

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
1,761
Location
Chesapeake, VA
I'll measure when the weather is clear.

While searching for re-boxed OEM Nabco Slave Master Cylinder I found this: click

I'm on the fence, If i order it at O'Reilly's I can also return it on spot. I did find another one online, but I wouldn't have to deal with return shipping if it is not indeed a Nacbo part.
 
Last edited:

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
I posted about this many years ago when I was having issues. If you can determine or ask the manufacturer of the clutch how much travel is needed to disengage the clutch(assuming step and installation are all good), you can divide by the clutch fork ratio and get what travel is needed at the slave cylinder. then you can easily determine if you are getting enough travel there from the hydraulic system for it to operate properly.

Can't recall the stock numbers at the moment, nor the clutch fork ratio. If anyone knows, help is appreciated. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

citymunky

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
1,761
Location
Chesapeake, VA
I think I have multiple issues with my car, however since I damage the oil pan on my Audi I only have time and money to deal with one.

I think that my step on my flywheel is not right, plus the issue with the master cylinder. I'm going to op for a OEM from JNZ, however I can't do anything until I painfully replaced that oil pan on my other turd.

So for the time being, I tried a extended slave cylinder rod my friend let me borrow. I still can't shift into gear /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif. So I'm pulling the tranny again, shimming the pivot bolt, removing that flywheel and installing one with a .610 step from a buddy and swapping transmissions.
 

citymunky

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
1,761
Location
Chesapeake, VA
I know this is not the most ideal tool to measure the flywheel step however this is what the step is reading on my resurfaced flywheel.





I'm unsure what to do for my next step. The Fidanza Fly wheel I have in there at 1st is reading 0.610" on the other edges, and that is the flywheel I have in there to begin with before I replaced the slave cylinder.

My buddy has a freshly resurfaced flywheel with the proper step for sale. However I'm not sure if I should try it, since the Fidanza had the proper step.

I'm thinking about shimmering the pivot ball with one washer since the transmission is out? However with the transmission installed the fork is dead centered, so I'm unsure if I can do more harm then good if I shim a new pivot ball.
 

citymunky

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
1,761
Location
Chesapeake, VA
I will after I get paid. However since the transmission is pulled already, I want to correct all I can before installing.


Between waiting to getting paid, ordering the part, installing the part I looking at almost 2 weeks of just waiting around for a part that might not work.

I figured I can check the step on the flywheel, just in case.
 

citymunky

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
1,761
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Here are the flywheel differences.

The top is the Findanza
To the left is a stock flywheel that I just pick up. (0.610 step)
To the right is right is the lighten flywheel wheel with the fucked step.



 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top