As mentioned, with the ABS rings still in place, the hub needs to be pressed apart. You could use a slide hammer to get it apart as Chris mentioned, but I wouldn't recommend beating the bearings back into the hub. The right way to do it would be with a press.
If you don't give a sh*t about retaining the ABS, you can actually cut the rings off and leave the hub in place. With the ABS rings removed, the studs will slip right out. Check out this thread if that's something you're interested in:
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Lastly, f*** no I wouldn't go to the stealership and order new wheel bearings. Why the hell would you? Buy the Timken units from Rockauto for half the price. Timken is a high quality bearing, and you'll have zero issues. If I recall correctly, the OEM unit is Timken anyways.
Oh, and if you need some wheel studs, let me know. I have a whole set in my garage I'm not doing sh*t with. Just pay shipping, and you can have whatever you need.
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Just order it from Rockauto. I did mine a while back, and I'm at about 1,000 miles without issue.
BECK/ARNLEY Wheel Seal part # 0523303 (052-3303) $ 3.22
SKF Wheel Seal Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty part # 21281 $ 0.86
TIMKEN Wheel Bearing part # 513036 $ 31.79
The bitch part is pressing all the old stuff out, and getting the new stuff back in. You need a press and lots of patience.
From my build thread:
You have to disassemble the entire hub just to get the lug stud out. I figured this was as good a time as any to replace the wheel bearing. Here's the hub with everything removed; bearing, seals, everything pressed out.
Here's all the new stuff. It's pretty simple, just a bearing, snap ring, and 2 seals.
Aaaaaaand...everything all assembled.