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thomcasey's rescue of #1025 build

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Ressurecting #1025/2000. Here are the plans,

Here as she sits in a sad but rust free state:









Here are the plans (many parts coming off my swapped 91 Colt:

-On-hand/performed-

E316g
PTE 680'd
ECMLink v3 Full
Aeromotive AFPR
Wally 255
Tial Q BOV
Tial 38mm WG, vented
SBR ex manifold with WG mount
4-bolt lds rearend
5-lug swap
working AC (hopefully still good)
TRE Stage 2 transmission
TRE rebuilt xfer case
Keeping the balance shafts
Stock motor
Stock exhaust for winter
16x8 VOXX et20 5-lug wheels
GlowShift Oil Pressure, Coolant temp and Boost gauges (white face, from Colt)
Pioneer DEH-X8500 BH head unit
Kicker 10.2 amp (fronts)
MB Quart FX 1.600 mono amp (Sub)
Kicker Comp 10" sub in sealed box
NRG ST-009R-RS Steering wheel
NRG Quick release hub
Full replacement interior

-Need/to be performed-

Innovative LC-2 WB
AWS delete
new front struts w/1"drop
new front axles
re-install entire dash/vents
re-install entire interior
rebuild driveshaft
Door speakers
Dash speakers
rear deck speakers

-Summer-
Paint
2.5" exhaust
Tint
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Make sure you check the front lower control arms, they tend to rust out at the rear bushing and get loads of play. Also make sure to check over all the brakes and suspension(sure you knew that).

Maintenance is very important as these babies are getting old.
 

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Yea, no rust there. Front calipers are in my house, rears are OK so far on the back
 

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
got standed with no car for a while today, so took advantage of the sunny yet 38 degree weather and cleaned out the galant and placed the interior in it to get it out of the house.










 

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,774
Location
O-H-I-O
Welcome to the .org!
 
Last edited:

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Decided to change up the motor build for this. Instead of the freshly ringed and gasketed stocker, I will run:

fresh tanked and machined block, .020 over
Wiseco .020 pistons
Eagle Rods (balanced with pistons)
fresh crank
BSE (I am a huge fan of Balance shafts, but what the heck)
Ported and polished head
272 cams
ARP head studs

Will still be running the stock VR4 FMIC and exhaust for the winter, then the summer will see the new FMIC and exhaust

It is over-kill for my build expectations of sticking with the e316g forever and such, but could not pass up the trade. (Trading for my 93 Summit AWD Auto wagon)
 

bluzvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
57
Location
san jose IL
So when i found out my engine was bad the first guy I called said he just got rid of his only extra.... We have the same friends /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Well, I managed to eeek out a Rebuilt title from the Indiana BMV!!! So the build can go forth!! I found hail-damage on the roof and trunk, I think that is why it was totaled in the past so a rebuilt title is the best I could do.
The motor build has changed a bit as I now have the parts and now know what they are exactly:

.020 bored and machined stock block
.020 9.0:1 Wiseco pistons
Tool Steel wrist pins
Eagle H-Beam rods
un-cut polished stock crank
ARP L19 headstuds
-----All the above picked up on a trade for a 93 Auto AWD Summit wagon, good trade------

polished/ported head
272/272 cams
new 3g lifters

Had new bearings installed in the front 5-lug hubs so I will finish the 5-lug swap
 

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Put in a little work on Saturday since it was nice and warm in the 40's. Installed my 5-lug front knuckles with the fresh bearings. Went ahead and installed new ball joints, stab-links and tie rod ends too. Front struts are toast, rust infested (only rust on the car!!). Unfortunately I discovered some play in the passenger inner tie rod. Guess I will pull the rack and replace those too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
unless the rack is leaking or you really want to drop it, you do not need to remove the rack to change the inner tie rods.
 

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
I thought a special tool was required to do it with the rack in the car.

Quoting transparentdsm:
unless the rack is leaking or you really want to drop it, you do not need to remove the rack to change the inner tie rods.

 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
You can probably do it with a pipe wrench. You may also have to bend back the retainer washer tabs too, but that doesn't need anything special.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
23mm open ended wrench i think. or 21 or 25. i just did it a year and a half ago with the car on a jack. just remove any crossmember or braces in the way. took me no longer then an hour or so to do.
 

Wookalar

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
458
Location
Arizona USSA
Wow, who are these fools who fray out the wiring system like that, and zip tie a heavy compressor to a aluminum line? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif They should be restricted to public transit at the least.

Enjoy the build.
 

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
I absolutely agree!!. It looks like they were going to either re-loom or wire tuck and stopped. Fortunately the line is still solid and still holds pressure. I have since straightened that line (ever so carefully) and set the compressor on the cradle.

Quoting Wookalar:
Wow, who are these fools who fray out the wiring system like that, and zip tie a heavy compressor to a aluminum line? They should be restricted to public transit at the least.

Enjoy the build.

 

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Saturday was in the Mid 40's, nice and warm for driveway work!!! Went to work on getting the dash installed:

Pulled the dash to install the vent system. Found this on the heater core when I removed the semi installed dash:


The heater core did not work properly, was unable to redirect air since the knob would not move. I found the core was filled with AT LEAST a bunch of acorns, maybe the body of the snake was there too. So, I installed a new core.
Install complete:


Only issue I found were following wires, no idea where they should go:

These are from under the steering wheel:


These coming from the center console area:


This is where the ECU goes:


And this wire. No place for it to go to in the harness:


Anyone know what I can use to mount the speedo cable? there is no clip to hold it in place in the gauge cluster mount?


Also found these mounts in the trunk. Are any of these for the gvr4?


 
Last edited:

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Figures. My luck they would not be the correct ones. I was completely surprised to find a complete dash minus only the two small dash panel/switches and the little panel that finishes off the lower left dash so I was hopeful for these mounts, but no more.
 

Wolfpuss

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2014
Messages
157
Location
St Louis
Damm, I would have called it quits when I saw the snake skin (I hate snakes)

Keep up the good work OP!
 
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