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Re: New Owner Of 1837/2000


GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152951 posted 12/21/13 09:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The weather in Maryland was beautiful today! Since I got a break from the cold, I've been putting in some work on 1837. It has been down pretty much since I got it, and I'm dying to get it back on the road.

After assessing the rust issue, I decided to correct it using Rust Bullet. I removed all the rust down to bare metal, and then cleaned the surface with another Rust Bullet product called Metal Blast. Metal Blast slightly etches the surface while also removing remaining rust, grease and contaminates. It worked great.

Then, I applied the Rust Bullet grey rust inhibitor over the entire front clip. I applied it using a HVLP gravity spray gun, and ran into a slight issue during application. Rust Bullet is supposed to be ready to spray right out of the can. The problem is, it is really thick. Rust Bullet recommends a 1.7-2.0 fluid tip for application. I was using a 1.7, which I thought would be good, but wasn't quite cutting it. The application wasn't as smooth as I would have liked, so make sure you have a 2.0 fluid tip if you ever plan to spray this stuff and get a real professional looking job. I let the car sit 24 hours, and then coated the wheel wells with BlackShell. It is basically Rust Bullet's black top coat. Despite my inadequate 1.7 tip, it still covered well, and got the job done.

At first, I was just going use the BlackShell to top coat the whole front clip, but then thought it would look much better factory white. In addition, the core support looked horrible, and could stand to be freshened up with a new coat of paint. I decided to order some summit white (WO9) from automotivetouchup.com and give it a try. I ordered a pint of summit white urethane base coat, and a quart of their 2 part urethane clear. Let me just say, for the money, this is pretty good paint. In my experience, pre-reduced ready to spray paint typically sucks. I was really impressed with this stuff though, and to my surprise it matched the rest of the car perfectly. I usually only use PPG products, and I can honestly say this stuff finishes almost just as well. The color and clear both covered really well, and the finish looked great even before buffing/sanding. Bottom line, I'd recommend the paint from automotivetouchup.com to anyone.

Everything I used:



Rust inhibitor applied:













BlackShell Applied:






I made sure to get as much inside the frame rail as possible:



After the W09 base and clear:




The core support was one of the few areas I spent time sanding and smoothing before shooting the base and clear coats. In comparison to the other areas I just shot without much sanding, it looks glassy smooth.






Lastly, I thought I'd put a few shots of the overall progression.

Driver side rust area:





Lower front window support.



Front view of the clip:





Driver side of the clip:





Driver fender well:






Now, I just have to throw everything back together. I feel confident that my rust issues are taken care of, at least in the front of the car. The rear area near the doglegs seem to be rust free. As soon as I get some more time, I'd like to do the same thing to the entire undercarriage, much like Charles (bobdole) did.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD


Edited by GSTwithPSI (10/11/14 06:44 PM)

Posts: 3163 | From: Annapolis, MD | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
(173.245.54.167) | Report this post to a Moderator

G
obsessed with the turds of others
486/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152960 posted 12/21/13 11:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks awesome!



www.japanesenostalgiccar.com
www.nostalgic.co.jp

Posts: 8783 | From: zompton | Member Since: 02/24/04 | IP: (173.245.52.186) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152962 posted 12/22/13 12:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks, G! I know it must look decent if I have the blessing of the official GVR4 rust appraiser


Edited by GSTwithPSI (12/22/13 12:05 AM)

Posts: 3163 | From: Annapolis, MD | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (173.245.54.167) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSX_TC
295hp 35r BR4
550/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152965 posted 12/22/13 02:40 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Way to get rid of that rust Brett!



JZX90 Toyota Mark II Tourer V Twin Turbskie "Laura"
90 Nissan Skyline GTR "Tanya"
90 Eclipse GST "Kerri"
91 Galant VR4 "Samara" 550<

Posts: 3700 | From: Houston, Texas | Member Since: 04/07/11 | IP:
(173.245.50.140) | Report this post to a Moderator

the_underdog
Member +
1444/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152972 posted 12/22/13 05:22 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well done! Thank you for all of the great step-by-step pictures too!



-Tom
My Galant- 1444/2000

Posts: 256 | From: Knoxville, TN | Member Since: 12/14/10 | IP: (108.162.238.50) | Report this post to a Moderator

DynastyLCD
Dissapointing Member
73/1000
881/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1152984 posted 12/22/13 09:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Wow! Awesome job, Brett!

I've wrenched for the better part of 10 years and I would still hesitate to take on a project like that. Congratulations on such an awesome result. You did very well! Now do 881



- Phil

'92 Galant VR4 - 881/1000 - 2.0/FPgreen daily
'92 Eagle Talon TSi - 2.3/3052/1600's/killmode.
'05 Honda TRX450r - pack-a-punched woods weapon
You call down the thunder, and i'll reap the whirlwind.

Posts: 761 | From: Harwinton, CT | Member Since: 05/12/06 | IP: (108.162.219.179) | Report this post to a Moderator

bobdole
Old member with new to me VR4 and starting over. Respect your elders kids
504/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1153003 posted 12/22/13 02:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks really good. Great job.



Great deal on BC coilovers. Hit me up. Whiteline dealer. Vibrant dealer.

Posts: 663 | From: tampa | Member Since: 08/23/07 | IP: (141.101.98.222) | Report this post to a Moderator

transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1153218 posted 12/24/13 01:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Brett, car looks great. wish i was still on the east coast to see this in person.



138/2000 - BG - Dorothy

Posts: 3335 | From: Klamath Falls, Or | Member Since: 07/27/11 | IP: (173.245.48.82) | Report this post to a Moderator

EHmotorsports
Capt Fabbin Stabbin
1865/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1153219 posted 12/24/13 01:52 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks great! Keep it up:)



click

Posts: 1264 | From: Beaverton | Member Since: 09/26/12 | IP: (199.27.128.169) | Report this post to a Moderator

Steve885
Member
885/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1153235 posted 12/24/13 05:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks good!!!you do great work

Posts: 228 | From: Concord ca | Member Since: 12/07/12 | IP: (199.27.128.217) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1153298 posted 12/25/13 12:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hey guys, thanks for all the compliments. I am pretty happy with the end result, and am at ease now that I know the car isn't rusting out from beneath me. I got the car all back together yesterday, and took it out for a drive. It was awesome to be back behind the wheel, and the car ran great. Special thanks to Charles for his great write up. I used his thread multiple times for reference, and it helped out a lot.

Also, Tom's recent videos were pretty inspiring, and seeing 1444 go from nasty to nice was great motivation! Now, I need to get under my own hood, and go from this:


To this:

Great work, Tom! It's crazy what some elbow grease and a few rags can do.


Edited by GSTwithPSI (12/25/13 12:11 PM)

Posts: 3163 | From: Annapolis, MD | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (173.245.54.167) | Report this post to a Moderator

PTLourenco
Junior Member
836/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1153306 posted 12/25/13 02:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Awesome job. Super jealous. What wheels are you running?

Posts: 36 | From: Southern Massachusetts | Member Since: 12/04/09 | IP: (173.245.52.203) | Report this post to a Moderator

jogalant
jobidet
1892/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1153550 posted 12/27/13 06:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Great work, man. Just great. You know the time-honored belief that when you love your ride it'll give it back to you in spades...... only motorheads understand this. Most women certainly don't. Beautiful job!

Posts: 1173 | From: FL | Member Since: 07/29/05 | IP: (141.101.70.127) | Report this post to a Moderator

tektic
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1153553 posted 12/27/13 07:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Oh wow. I did most of this but only to the nose and engine bay. I cringe to think this could be hiding under my moldings.

Looks done for you though !



7 1G DSM's now a GGSX build.

Posts: 1337 | From: ronkonkoma, ny | Member Since: 12/19/12 | IP: (108.162.219.212) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1155735 posted 01/13/14 07:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It has been nice the last few days, so I decided to drive the VR4 to work. As I backed the car out of the garage this morning, I noticed a small puddle in the floor. The car doesn't leak at all, so I immediately knew something was wrong. I shut the car down, and jumped out to go investigate. It was definitely oil. I didn't have time to dick with it, so I pulled it back in the garage and drove my other car.

I get home from work, and throw the car up on jack stands. I peek underneath to look for the leak, which I can now see is coming from between the oil filter and sandwich plate. I give the filter a twist and it comes off easy, but not so easy that it should be leaking. I think maybe it is a crappy seal. I grab a new filter off the shelf, and proceed to do an oil change. I go to screw on the new filter, and realize the damn mounting shaft that holds sandwich plate on is loose. I removed the shaft, and put some Loctite on the threads. I reinstalled it and snugged it up trying not to over tighten it. I finished the oil change and went for a test drive. The car didn't leak, and everything is fine again. I just thought I'd share, so maybe some of you guys can go check your oil filters .

I hate the water cooler OFHs. I have a 90 OFH sitting in the garage, and I can't wait to install it. This little fiasco really got me thinking about getting an oil filter clamp. I just read in manikbastrd's thread the same exact thing happened to him, so how common is it for this to happen?

On an unrelated note, I decided to throw a COP setup I had laying around on the car. I noticed a vast improvement in my idle quality. I'm guessing that's a sign my plug wires are probably shitty. The car is running great on the COP though, so I think I'll run it for a while.



820/1000
1837/2000
1546/2000-SOLD
1813/2000-SOLD

Posts: 3163 | From: Annapolis, MD | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP:
(72.45.2.251) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1155739 posted 01/13/14 07:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Now that it's loctite'd and properly torqued, it will most likely stay put for a long time. It's been over 20 years of that thing probably having overtightened filters on it. It's bound to come loose at some point. Mine did the same thing back in like '02. Red loctite and proper torque and it's been good ever since.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

Posts: 11832 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (71.92.106.100) | Report this post to a Moderator

transparentdsm
I have to say something dumb Member
138/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1155740 posted 01/13/14 07:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
i added a COP setup on 138 and it did the same thing, car idles so much smoother and with the FIAV block off it really helps in the cold weather.

i don't know about the oil filter thing as i have a forward facing oil filter housing, it's almost impossible to remove the oil filter(4 out of 5 times i have to use a screw driver threw the filter) on both 138 and 1078 and no oil cooler on either car, but they aren't raced or driven all to hard and always turbo timed for 30 second minimum.



138/2000 - BG - Dorothy

Posts: 3335 | From: Klamath Falls, Or | Member Since: 07/27/11 | IP: (24.180.45.179) | Report this post to a Moderator

coyotes
Hipster VR4
1226/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1155742 posted 01/13/14 07:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
definitely something I'll be checking out when it comes time to do an oil change.



1226/2000

Posts: 1544 | From: Seattle, WA | Member Since: 11/15/13 | IP: (172.56.32.21) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1155746 posted 01/13/14 08:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting turbowop:

Now that it's loctite'd and properly torqued, it will most likely stay put for a long time. It's been over 20 years of that thing probably having overtightened filters on it. It's bound to come loose at some point. Mine did the same thing back in like '02. Red loctite and proper torque and it's been good ever since.



Thanks, Mark, that's reassuring. I used the Red Loctite as well, so hopefully it is problem free from here on out. I've always had a 90 OFH on all my cars, so this is really my first time dealing with this specific issue.


Quoting transparentdsm:

i added a COP setup on 138 and it did the same thing, car idles so much smoother and with the FIAV block off it really helps in the cold weather.



Yeah, although the COP has some benefits, I still believe the stock ignition system is the superior of the two though. I just think my situation proves my ignition wires were probably worn out.

Posts: 3163 | From: Annapolis, MD | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) | Report this post to a Moderator

the_underdog
Member +
1444/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1155898 posted 01/15/14 06:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting GSTwithPSI:

Also, Tom's recent videos were pretty inspiring, and seeing 1444 go from nasty to nice was great motivation! Great work, Tom! It's crazy what some elbow grease and a few rags can do.




Thank you for saying that and I'm glad I could help!



-Tom
My Galant- 1444/2000

Posts: 256 | From: Knoxville, TN | Member Since: 12/14/10 | IP: (50.149.169.140) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSX_TC
295hp 35r BR4
550/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1155902 posted 01/15/14 07:40 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
dam thats a clean engine bay!



JZX90 Toyota Mark II Tourer V Twin Turbskie "Laura"
90 Nissan Skyline GTR "Tanya"
90 Eclipse GST "Kerri"
91 Galant VR4 "Samara" 550<

Posts: 3700 | From: Houston, Texas | Member Since: 04/07/11 | IP:
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GSTwithPSI
A hole
820/1000
1837/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1156378 posted 01/18/14 02:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So, got my short shifter from JNZ last week and got a chance to install it today. Let me just start by saying the shifter JNZ has put together is PERFECT in every way. Fit and finish are flawless, and it was shipped with everything needed to install.

As far as the install goes, it was plug and play. I took the old stocker out, and the shorty dropped right in. I didn't even have to remove the center console. The only modification I had to make was to the underneath plastic that holds the shifter boot in place. The plastic trim ring impedes the lateral movement of the lower profile pivot assembly. I trimmed away a small section, and everything worked perfectly.

My first impression after the install was amazing. As expected, the throw is significantly shorter, and the shifter just feels tighter all together. I haven't gone for a drive yet, but I expect good things when I take the car out later. The factory shift boot did fit, but I don't really think it looks right. The shifter I got was the standard length GVR4 option, and if the shifter stalk were any shroter, I'm not sure you would be able to still utilize the stock boot. It would also depend on your shift knob as well, as the one I have attaches below the actual threads on the shifter stalk.

Overall an great modification. Thanks to all the guys at JNZ for a great item, and also to Chris (89Mirageman) for rounding up enough parts to make this happen for a few lucky members here on the board.

Here's a side-by-side; stock GVR4 shifter (left) and the JNZ short shifter (right). Notice the nice powder coated finish on the JNZ shifter, as well as the different pivot points:



Here's what I was talking about with the trim ring. You can see the shifter contacting the side:


I trimmed a small area, and the shifter worked great:




Finished product:





Posts: 3163 | From: Annapolis, MD | Member Since: 01/02/12 | IP: (72.45.2.251) | Report this post to a Moderator

EHmotorsports
Capt Fabbin Stabbin
1865/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1156386 posted 01/18/14 03:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'm not putting the shifter down at all. But the reason the fit is so good is because it's a factory 3000gt peice with some bushings made.



click

Posts: 1264 | From: Beaverton | Member Since: 09/26/12 | IP: (24.22.46.133) | Report this post to a Moderator

DSSA
Old-Head


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1156599 posted 01/20/14 11:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yes, it's based on the 3KGT shifter, but no, not just bushings.



www.JNZTuning.com

Posts: 538 | From: PA | Member Since: 04/16/02 | IP: (68.80.78.92) | Report this post to a Moderator

EHmotorsports
Capt Fabbin Stabbin
1865/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1156601 posted 01/20/14 11:50 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I wasn't hear to shit on your Parade but I know what is involved in the process. yes you powder coat and for DSM's you will cut down and weld the shifter rod. but the basics are the basics. Im not saying the shifter is crap because it is the best option on the market and it is priced good for people that do not want to make all the bushings and spacers.



click


Edited by EHmotorsports (01/20/14 12:29 PM)

Posts: 1264 | From: Beaverton | Member Since: 09/26/12 | IP: (98.246.179.90) | Report this post to a Moderator


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