ECMlink dudes, some assistance plz

[turbowop]

For those that don't see this thread on the ECMlink forums, I figured I'd post here for more exposure, and because I know y'all. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Looking to have you guys check out my log and see if anything looks like it needs work. I went out for a drive for the first time since English tuned it on the dyno. I would have done this sooner, but haven't had time.

The car feels pretty normal at cruise and idle, and pulls clean under full throttle. Looking at the log, I see areas where the O2 doesn't cycle very well. Maybe it's not that important during the times it does it, but I'd like to work on anything that will allow the car to run as smooth as possible.

Also, for some odd reason, my coolant temps fluctuate all over the place. The car has a 180 thermostat now and never gets really hot, but I see temps anywhere from 174 up to 213. The car doesn't push coolant at WOT either, but the temperature swings seem larger than they should be. Is it possible that the temp sensor is being flaky? The prongs that stick out of it are loose, if that means anything. I'm gonna swap it out with a spare I have and flush out the radiator. Maybe it's time for a better slim fan, as I see the biggest upswings in stop/go traffic.

Anyway... here is the log. Thanks for any insight. It was too big to upload via the ECMlink forum uploader, so I uploaded it to Google docs:

ECMlink log

 

[DynastyLCD]

do you have an aftermarket water temp gauge? i notice that what my coolant temp sensor logs and what the autometer gauge reads are pretty damn close. nice easy rationality check without having to swap sensors. also better reading numbers than lines /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

what size is your slim fan? is your fan still controlled by the coolant switch on the radiator? it may be time to use a relay that gets power with the key on so that the fan runs all the time. i had a similar problem with my 1g, and i ended up wiring my fan to run anytime the key is on, and my coolant temps stay very consistent. im using a Fluidyne radiator, and a 14" slim fan.

or maybe you have an air bubble in the coolant?

 

[turbowop]

I drained the coolant, flushed out the radiator, and swapped the ECU coolant sensor with a spare I have that's in much better shape. The radiator was pretty clean inside. I don't have an aftermarket temp gauge. And I was just reading the temps off the laptop while driving, not really looking at the graph lines, haha.

The fan is a slim fan wired to the stock wiring. I can't remember the brand. I think it's a 12" unit. I covers the radiator from top to bottom. Perhaps wiring it to stay on constant is a good idea, but this was never an issue until I installed a new thermostat to replace one that was stuck open just before driving down to dyno the car, so I guess it's also possible I somehow got a bubble in the system. The thing is, when I replaced the thermostat, I only drained enough coolant to pull the thermostat without making a mess, so I don't think I could have introduced a bubble to the system. I dunno. This is the second thermostat since the stuck open one. The first replacement was a factory 190 unit but it was running waaaaay too hot. I'll put it all back together in the next couple of days and see how it goes.

 

[DynastyLCD]

its easy to introduce air pockets to the system. i only say this, because a few weeks ago, i helped my friend change his throttle body on a 1g, and we drained a little coolant to do that. still had an air bubble to the point where the car had to run for 5 minutes or so with the spill free funnel on it before it finally came up.

you'll find out soon enough, it could be anything.

also, i was referring to the lines on the stock temp gauge, not the graph lines /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[4thStroke]

I have a cheap stock replacement radiator and a 160* thermostat. At cruise, it stays at 160*. When I'm stop and go, it can creep up well past 210* on a summer day. I have a slim fan wired on full time with the diver side fan on when the blower motor is on.

It's the nature of the beast and not all that abnormal.

What is the cruising temp?

If you O2 sensor is cycling like it should, it's either the sensor, the wiring, or your threshhold as it is set up in the Direct Access portion of ECMLink.

 

[turbowop]

Well fawk, I find it abnormal compared to how it acted before I replaced that stuck open thermostat. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif 503 doesn't do that sh*t, but it has the stock puller fan still installed. I think the hottest I've ever seen 1051 get before this thermostat fiasco was 206, and that was on a high 90 degree day in traffic with a 190 thermostat.

Cruising temps fluctuate quite a bit as well, anywhere from high 170's to 200.

 

[bazeng]

I got rid if my lower temp thermostat because of this reason... I stuck with the stock one and it was much more stable...

The rad fan sensor kicks in at a different temp also... It might work if you found a matching rad fan sensor....

 

[mitsuturbo]

Looks like you got on it pretty good around 1140sec. At 1145 your GM3Bar shows boost of 29.8psi, and BoostEst is 35.1psi. That seems pretty far off.

I see the same thing around 1247.6sec. 6600rpm, the BoostEst and GM3Bar are pretty far from one another.

 

[WaRrIoRs16]

^^ I agree, that 5.5k to 6.5k rpms should have BoostEst and your map sensor equal or close to it. Some WOT tuning of the VE table should help that.

Have you made any changes to your VE table using the SD VE Adjust(CombinedFT)? I used it on you log and it wants to make some significant changes to your VE table in the 2k-3k cruising sections, where you are having funky O2 sensor readings. It showed lower values need to be in your VE table, suggesting your are seeing less air than it expects, resulting in the rich mixture observed in your logs frequently.

Just out of curiosity, are you spraying meth on both of your fuel maps? Because I notice you target the same AFR on both maps and I thought with Meth you have to or can take away fuel to reach your desired AFR. I see your timing maps are different, but not your fuel.

 

[turbowop]

Quoting mitsuturbo:
Looks like you got on it pretty good around 1140sec. At 1145 your GM3Bar shows boost of 29.8psi, and BoostEst is 35.1psi. That seems pretty far off.

I see the same thing around 1247.6sec. 6600rpm, the BoostEst and GM3Bar are pretty far from one another.



Boost spikes somewhere around 31psi but falls quickly to 28 tapering to 27. That's what it did on the dyno. There should be a couple spots in that log where I went WOT for two or three gears.

I'm picking up a Lisle spill-proof funnel kit tomorrow morning so that I can properly burp the cooling system without making a mess. Never had an issue like this before and I hate spilling coolant all over the place. I'm also going to reinstall the new OE 190 t-stat and see how it does.

 

[turbowop]

Quoting WaRrIoRs16:
^^ I agree, that 5.5k to 6.5k rpms should have BoostEst and your map sensor equal or close to it. Some WOT tuning of the VE table should help that.

Have you made any changes to your VE table using the SD VE Adjust(CombinedFT)? I used it on you log and it wants to make some significant changes to your VE table in the 2k-3k cruising sections, where you are having funky O2 sensor readings. It showed lower values need to be in your VE table, suggesting your are seeing less air than it expects, resulting in the rich mixture observed in your logs frequently.

Just out of curiosity, are you spraying meth on both of your fuel maps? Because I notice you target the same AFR on both maps and I thought with Meth you have to or can take away fuel to reach your desired AFR. I see your timing maps are different, but not your fuel.



I haven't made any changes since Lucas tuned the car on the dyno. I used SD VE Adjust before the drive down to English though.

I'm only spraying meth on one map. But that map is also setup to pull about 15% global fuel out. So I assume the target AFR on that map is with meth spraying, but gas leaned out, making it the same AFR as the map with pure gas and no meth. And yeah, the timing map with meth spraying is definitely more aggressive.