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ebrake cable

So the other day when pulling into my driveway I pull up the ebrake as I turn off the car and hear this pop. As I hear this the ebrake looses all tension. Pop open the center console and see the passenger side cable is really lose. Figured i'd try and tighten it up, but to no avail. Pulled on the cable and to my surprise it came all the way out and when the other end came through you could see that the cable had snapped due to rust.

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So here's my question. Looks fairly easy to change, but do I need a VR4 cable or can I use a 1g DSM or LS Galant cable and does it have to be AWD?
 

mitsuturbo

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Jun 2, 2008
Messages
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Location
Near Seattle, Washington
I just replaced my LH cable, and it's a total pain in the ass. Luckily, i already had the rear subframe dropped down for a 4 bolt rear install.
I bought the replacement from RockAuto, and it ran me about $40.

You can't just replace that part that "snakes in" through the sheathing. You have to replace the whole thing.

I hope you've got a nice rust free car, or there's a good chance you will snap some of the bolts off that hold the cable.
 

haha my car is far from rust free. I actually just pulled some rust off the car tonight while changing the rear diff oil. The shroud around the gastank was just falling apart.

If you don't mind me asking, what are some of the steps needed? I figured that much that i'd have to replace the outer "shell", but wasn't sure how labor intensive it was.
 

Romanova

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Aug 7, 2002
Messages
3,855
Location
Cypress, TX
$30 each from JNZ for OEM. Just ordered a pair not to long ago.
 

mitsuturbo

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Near Seattle, Washington
If you're going to do one, you may as well do both of them, really.
One of mine had been replaced recently, so i just had to the one.

Step one: Obtain cables from here>> CLICK

Step two: Put car in JSB status. Elevate the rear significantly. Take care not to put jackstands anywhere on the rear subframe as you need to lower this part.

Step three: Remove both rear wheels.

Step four: Pull the 2 bolts that hold the rear diff up to the mustache brace, and drop the subframe down as far as you can. (otherwise you'll never get to the bolts on the subframe)

Step five: Drop down the rear most carrier bearing on the driveshaft. This will allow you access to Ebrake retaining bolts.

Step six: Detach parking brake cables from calipers.

Step seven: Remove all parking brake retaining bolts.

Step eight: Open your center console and pull the compartment out, exposing the parking brake assembly. Detach cables, allowing them to be pulled out under the car.

By now you should realize how to put it all back together. It's not really an easy or fun job. I'd honestly rather swap transmissions than parking brake cables.
 
Last edited:

RedTwo

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Jul 16, 2008
Messages
1,917
Location
New Zealand
It's a real bitch of a job as the cables enter the cabin just behind the front seats, and snake around the trailing arms and floor pan.You'll probably have to drop the driveshaft, exhaust and exhaust heat shield in the driveshaft tunnel /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif
 

mitsuturbo

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Near Seattle, Washington
He's right about the exhaust. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

You do have to drop the exhaust down a bit in order to get the subframe down.
I pulled the rubber hangers off around the muffler, and that gave me enough clearance to get everything done.
 

raptorWagon

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Joined
May 17, 2007
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2,827
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Oak Harbor, WA
You really don't need to drop the subframe to replace them, just drop the exhaust down some, driveshaft, and exhaust heat shield. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif If the cables don't like to come out freely from the entrance to the center console, a good ole flathead and rubber mallet works to free them.
 

Romanova

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Messages
3,855
Location
Cypress, TX
I guess I'm lucky that I am doing it with the rear end out of the car. Piece of cake. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
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